68C
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Posts posted by 68C
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Hot air is less dense than cold air. There is less oxygen in this less dense air. To maintain the correct fuel/air ratio you would need to reduce the amount of fuel. You will need smaller jets or lower the needle. Carbs with accelerator pumps can give problems in hot weather.
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Thanks, I will look into using these limited range voltages.
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I expect the only real changes we can make are by removing the emission and noise control limitations, probably technically illegal in many places and will soon be socially unacceptable everywhere. Still, there is always bigger cylinders, higher RPM, forced induction via turbo or super charging, intercooling....... loads of fun to be had yet. My mate is still making improvements to his 350cc Velocette!
When you speak of L=0.8, I assume this is using stoichiometric as L=1 rather than the voltage output of a narrow band O2 sensor.
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Yeah too right. I used to love sitting at the lights with my old T3, front brake on and blipping the throttle while working the clutch lever back and forth. The old style torque reaction pushing the swinging arm down and lifting the bike - after a while you could get it really rocking. "Only I can tame this savage beast!". When I was a child I thought as a child etc.
I will take your advice on .9 - .95v. I suppose its a matter of making changes to exhaust/airbox etc which result in it running weak then adding fuel to get back to the desired AFR. If an alteration makes it run weak it is a good thing as you can then add fuel and get more power. As my old engineering instructer would say, " We use the oxygen to oxidise the fuel to creat heat to expand the nitrogen to push the piston down". If after a change the motor runs weak we have spare oxygen which can oxidise more fuel.
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I do have the Optimiser which I have found to be great fun. I have fitted a larger display which makes it much easier to read however Cliff seems to be moving away from the idea of looking at the screen whilst riding. I seems to be getting nervous we all kill ourselves. Rather he now advises the Android mobile phone approach whereby you log a ride and then adjust the map semi-manually back at home.
As I understand it you need the Optimiser in Autotune to correct your map. Once your bike runs with the map OK you do not need the Optimiser. You can select Closed Coop and it will try to keep to the AFR values you have assigned to the various cells. The problem of course is you need to decide what AFR you want.
The truth is my 04 Rosso Corsa runs OK with the oem ecu. I have fitted the My15M as a way of finding out how alterations affect the bike - it is unlikely I will ever achieve the 'perfect' map as I am probably not a sensitive enough rider to recognise it. This is all a bit like the old days when you rode around with a pocketfull of carb jets and stopping to check the spark plug colour. Do you try for the perfect colour (AFR) or the best running bike.
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Ok, I have figured this one out. The LC-1 Analogue Out 1 lead goes to pin 3 of the 4 pin socket which feeds pin 8 of the ECU.
Just posted this to tidy things up for anyone searching later on.
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Never been to Cameroon but have worked in Nigeria. Alledgedly the Cameroon girls were very popular as they had such nice French accents.
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Hi all, any chance of someone giving me a dummies guide to wiring up the Innovate LC-1 to a 2004 V11 Rosso Corsa which is fitted with a Cliff Jefferies My15M ECU.
My bike has the wiring loom suitable for the ‘with catalyser’ version and has a four pin plug which connects to the standard O2 sensor. The sensor connects to the ECU via the main connector, I am not using the three pins on the My15M pcb. The My15M reads this O2 sensor OK and runs closed loop using voltage settings as suggested by Cliff for the standard O2 sensor.
I would now like to convert to a wideband system my intention is to cut the wire off an old standard O2 sensor and wire it to the LC1 so that I can plug it back into the bike loom rather than run extra wires to the pcb pins.
This much I do know. Grounding is very important. Also the LC-1 must be supplied with +12v as soon as the ignition is switched on to allow the O2 sensor to heat up to avoid any thermal shock to the 02 sensor, this is supplied by the 4 pin plug from the injection power relay. I will also have to edit my map back to the original LC-1 voltages.
My problem is with the analogue inputs to the 4 pin plug.
As standard the bike is wired as below:
Original 02 sensor 4 Pin Socket
Pin 1 Black Heater ground -----------------------------Pin 1 Black ---------------------Ground
Pin 2 Grey Heater 12v -----------------------------Pin 2 Red/Black-----------------+12v from injector relay
Pin 3 White Analogue ????? -----------------------------Pin 3 Orange ----------------------ECU pin 8
Pin 4 White Analogue ????? -----------------------------Pin 4 Orange/Black---------------ECU Pin 2
I intend to add the LC-1 and an AFR Gauage:
Innovate LC-1 4 Pin Socket
Red 12v Supply ------------------------------Pin 2 Red/Black------------------+12v from injector relay
Yellow Analogue Out 1 -----------------------------PIN ????? ---------------------?????
Green Analogue Ground----------------------------------------------------------------------Common ground
Blue Heater Ground ------------------------------------------------------------------------Common ground
White System Ground -----------------------------------------------------------------------Common ground
Brown Analogue Out 2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------AFR Gauge
Black Calibration Wire-----------------------------------------------------------------------Calibration switch.
The LC-1 manual indicates the ‘Analogue Out 1’ should go to the ECU.
Q1/ Which pin on the 4 pin connector to use, pin 3 or 4 (ecu pins 8 & 2)?
Q2/ Should the remaining pin ( 3 or 4) be connected, The LC-1 Manual suggests it should be grounded but not connected to the LC-1 or is it grounded within the My15M.
Many thanks. I have also posted this on the MyEcu Forum.
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Yes, that's the same guy. I remember he was always really chatty at the HD shop in Southampton, I did'nt know much about him at the time so managed to avoid embarrasing myself with too much hero worship. Apparently he offered to take on anyone on the track, providing they were not a genuine racer, he would ride a Harley and they could bring what they liked.
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Is this the same 'Loopy Lewis'' who was with the Harley dealership in Southampton - the one we used to see doing wheelies around the roundabout outside the shop?
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I always imagine I have bought the bike then ten seconds later I want to sell it. What price would I advertise it at, how would I handle those who tried to beat me down to the market price. It's like any purchase of a second hand item - you should be able to sell it for what you paid, if not you overpaid.
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Any chance of slightly darkening the dimmed out text such as the "Posted Yesterday......." that appears at the top of each post, a bit difficult to read as is.
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Don't know the guy, he comes from a part of Holland (upper North) where there is nothing to do, nothing to see, the people are surly (?) and the roads are all straight.
I remember an old joke, "Why do Ostfreislanders have long arms?", did'nt realise the other reason was, "So they can reach their apehangers"!
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Minimal header glowing and engine pinging-at least in the 60f temps yesterday. Today it was 40f, and I had a bit more pinging, but I'm guessing it's because the fuel ratio is leaner in colder weather.
Ken
The fuel ratio should be "fairly" stable no matter what the temp, that's why the ecu has an engine temp probe. If anything it should be less likely to ping in cold conditions.
Ciao
Could it be that the reduced voltage means an equally reduced output from the air and oil temperature sensors, if they are not getting the correct input voltage then they may not output correctly either. The other half of head however assumes the sensors are fed from the ecu, probably at a regulated 5v and so a low battery or main circuit voltage should not affect things or cause pinging. ( I did start out with the word 'could'.)
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Cannot directly reply to the request fot ECU casing Thread.
The early fiat Punto 1000cc ? (not sure of acutal cc) in europe used the same casing as the Guzzi ECU. Plenty around on ebay for not many UK Pounds
Wits
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/99-03-fiat-punto-ecu-kit-key-transponder-/271106596600?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f1f365ef8
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Punto-MK1-1-2-ECU-Immobilizer-Key-/221155816709?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item337de9f505
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/fiat-punto-mk1-ecu-/170948286320?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27cd4fd770
all the above under £20.00 at time of writing post......
Thanks for the advice, I am looking for the square case that suits the later model V11 with the IAW15M ecu. I understand there is a scooter and some kind of a car that has this item - just don't know which.
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I am looking for the casing from a Magnetti Marelli IAW 15M ECU fitted to the later Vii Lemans. I only need the case to house an aftermarket ECU so a scrap ECU is fine, even one from a car or scooter.
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I think I agree with Craig, I have heard that using loads of heavy braking and then parking up outside the pub can mean the section of the stationary disc under the pads will stay hot for a lot longer than the section exposed to the air and can affect its hardness. The thinking is you should move the bike a little a few minutes after parking under these circumstances to even the disc cooling.
Some aircraft turbine engines suffer a similar heat effect except in this case the heat in a recently stopped engine moves upwards so the upper section of the shaft is hotter than the lower half. The shaft then 'bows' often to the extent that attempting a start will damage the engine. If you know you will have to start the engine in the timescale that shaft bowing may occour you have to cool the engine immediately after shutdown by dry motoring it or with some engines winding the prop by hand.
Judging by his name HelicopterJim can probably explain this better than me.
Put simply, don't park and walk off if the discs are hot.
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FG, as a fellow-Minnesotan, of course you are right. But better than messing with the porkchop, I think someone with the right program could cut some lower aluminum mounting brackets that, properly designed, would keep your feet in where they should be. This system is a tradeoff, but for the miles spent with some relief from the too-high stock position, the minor annoyance of tucking in my toes when I need to shift and brake is worth it.
One of the problems with the later bikes is the adoption of the wider tyre and six-speed box. The LH side is much the same as earlier bikes but they moved the shaft over more to the right and so the pork chop and footrest are also further to the right, so your right foot is already further out than your left.
The LH rest can be lowered easily by relocating onto the frame bolt below and aft - although this does give rise to problems setting the gearlever low enough depending on what boots you wear. The RH side footrest can be mounted on a longer bolt through the brake pedal assy but moves the foot even further to the right. Ideally the brake lever needs to be mounted further back and further in allowing the footrest to take the old brake pedal position - this would need a redesigned brake pedal , a new brake pedal mount plate and possible remounting of the master cylinder ........ have fun.
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I suppose your going to tell us its warm and sunny where you are as well. Ever wondered why British politicians always visit America in the winter?
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I was beginning to think the same myself, a 100bhp/litre engine it ain't.
Thanks all.
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So, has anyone practically addressed this matter?
I personally think this falls into the picking the fly sh*t out of the pepper area..
I doubt that these ditch pumps notice a miniscule difference in back pressure from one cylinder to the other. Of course, YMMV, and I've been wrong before. 
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Your faith in engineers is commendable.
I have the MyEcu fitted which can accept two O2 inputs, I am using the standard narrow band Guzzi O2 sensor at the moment fitted into the factory port on the x-over.
Of course the MyEcu map needs to be set up for each bike and this is where my worries about the difference in the available pipe cross section between the LH and RH side arose. The problem - if it is a problem - was posted by someone else on the MyEcu forum and as with all doubts has started to worm into my mind.
I think I will get two extended bosses and weld them on and blank the original port. I hope to be able to fit them to the input pipes of the x-over under the gearbox. I did see the two ports on the downtubes and wondered about using them with smaller O2 sensors but am mindful of a comment by Luhbo that the bike may start to look a little 'experimental'.
So, has anyone practically addressed this matter?
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The standard fitment for the O2 sensor is into a factory fitted threaded insert welded into the LH side of the x-over.
It seems the sensor probe protrudes a long way into the exhaust pipe. This must act as a restriction to the gas flow, a restriction that is only present on one side. One would think having different restrictions between the LH and RH exhaust ducts would affect the back pressures and so the fuel required for each cylinder. Does this mean that only the cylinder that has the O2 probe is effectively running closed loop, the other cylinder just being a probably innacurate 'guess'.
1. Does this restriction matter?
2. Would it be better to arrange for the probe to have only the tip protruding into the gas flow. This would mean using some kind of extension threaded into the standard port.
3. Is the factory bung position in the ideal spot?
4. If running two probes (for the MyEcu) would it be best to weld the second boss into the RH side similar to the LH side or is there a better position.
I should perhaps mention I have the later exhaust system with the front crossover as well as the perhaps more efficient centre x-over (don't know if it has a name - I hear the earlier version is described as the 'colostomy bag').
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Can anyone explain that graph for me?
I assume the highest blue line is the Horse Power following modifications and the red line as before and that the two lower lines are the before and after Air Fuel Ratios.
What is the significance of the dip in the AFR around 4100pm?
Is it usual for engines to slowly runner leaner at the higher revs as in this grah?
Why does he HP remain constant at the top end?
This not a criticsm of the work done to your bike, just me trying to understand things. If I had been given this gaph for my bike I would have added fuel round the 4100 point, but I suspect that is too simplistic.
V11Lemans versus BMW R1100S
in 24/7 V11
Posted
In the early seventies as a soldier in Germany I had a frame mounted half race fairing on a Norton, I dropped the bike and broke the fairing. I cut it short and mounted it to the handlebars so it fitted around the headlamp which was now back in its original mounts. Looked great. A year later BMW bought out the R90S with the same fairing layout. I have always been a leader of fashion .