68C
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Posts posted by 68C
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Best set the 530Mv (or whatever setting you want) with the engine running/idling , it will change from a static engine due to the vacuum pulling on the butterfly, about 10Mv higher in my case.
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Is there any risk of the fuel stabiliser affecting the plastic fuel tank, I appreciate you stated no methanol fuel but wondered what is in the fuel stabiliser. I have only used it in lawn mowers to ensure an easy start at the next mowing season.
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Hi mznyc,
Sorry for delay in replying - summer suddenly arrived so went camping. As several folk have posted anything that fits the thread would do. With the old 1970's two strokes we used a Dial Test Indicator screwed into the plughole to set the ignition timing as most had spark plugs in the middle of the head. You could either find TDC by rocking a measured distance either side of TDC and making two marks on the flywheel and again halving it or if you were lucky the manuacturer gave timing in both degrees advance and piston distance from TDC.
Perhaps an aside, I have just made a Cliff Jefferies MyEcu kit (second attempt!) and having great fun starting the tuning process, it is already crisper than the OEM ECU although a bit hesistant at low throttle openings. Even us older buzzards try and keep up with the times.
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Get an old spark plug and a degree disc.
Stick the degree disc to the front of the alternater with a blob of BluTack (used by kids to stick posters to their bedroom walls).
Smash the ceramic out of the spark plug and weld in a bar pointing out the threaded end about one inch, round it off.
Make sure the piston is not near top dead centre and screw in the plug.
Slowly turn engine until the piston just touches the plug tool. Make a note of the degree disc angle.
Slowly turn the engine the other way until the piston again contacts the tool. Make a note of the reading.
Top Dead Centre will be exactly halfway between those two readings. Make a note of that angle.
Remove plug tool and turn engine until the degree disc is at the angle noted in the previous step.
That is TDC. Repeat for the other cylinder
I leave it to your imagination the result should you use the starter motor to turn the engine during this procedure!
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This thread (and the recent speedo threads) reminds me of how we used to determine the safe speed in each gear when you don’t have a rev counter, most medium sized Brit Bikes didn’t of course.
As our old bikes tended to disintegrate above 6000rpm this was always taken as a safe limit – shock horror when the Commando was allowed to run out to 7000rpm!
Conveniently 6000rpm is exactly 100 revs per second. So if we remove the spark plugs, put the bike in top gear and push it for exactly 100 engine revolutions and measure the distance travelled in feet we can say that at 6000rpm the bike will cover the measured distance in one second. You may remember from school that 100mph is about 147ft/second so be prepared for a long push. You could push for ten revs and multiply the distance by ten but it may not be so accurate.
As one statute mile is 5280 feet and there are 3,600 seconds in an hour we can now calculate the speed in miles per hour at 6000rpm:
distance travelled x 3600 ÷ 5280 = speed in mph @ 6000rpm
This is even easier in Kilometres as of course there are 1000metres in a Kilometre.
distance travelled x 3600 ÷ 1000= speed in kph @ 6000rpm
Or more simply: distance travelled x 3.6 = speed in kilometres @ 6000rpm
Repeat this in each gear and mark the edge of the speedometer to indicate the safe limit in that gear. Of course most speedometers are optimistic so there tends to be a built in 10% error on the safe side.
If you draw a graph of ‘distance travelled’ against ‘speed in mph/kph’ ( try a vertical scale of 0 - 150mph and horizontal of 0 to 200 ft) and plot your data you can draw a straight line from zero to that point. Extend the line some distance then divide the line between zero and your point into six to indicate the thousand rpm jumps, carry on past your point for the higher revs. You can now move up your diagonal line to find the safe rpm for your bike, track across to the speed scale and you have your safe speed. You will need a different diagonal line for each gear. I have drawn the graph and saved it as a jpeg but could not figure out how to put it into this post. I don’t have a web page to upload it to.
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Hi Jrt, are you saying noone uses this board or the two listed above?
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Then I too am interested, I tried to make one of my own, was'nt pretty or very effective.
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Are we talking workshop stands or permanent fit?
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I agree with that, ideally the master cylinders would be changed as well, I mentioned the Yamaha to show a simple re-layout of the pipes did work in practise.
One could get really clever, fit a front master cylinder for a single caliper set up and add a second master cylinder to be mechanically connected to the rear brake pedal - hey, with clever linkage we could even have it adjustable to alter the bias as they do with some racing cars.
Perhaps the original rear master cylinder could drive a slave piston to operate this linkage so it could be tucked away somewhere and so keep it looking standard. A roll yaw rate gyro from a model helicopter could sense lean and adjust the brake input via a stepper motor - and reduce throttle a tad. Pressure sensers could drive a variable intensity rear light.......and......er.........uh, sorry.
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Baldini kindly mentioned the thread I stated recently, I miss the linked system as well.
I had a new 1977 Yamaha XS750, which was an excellent bike for it's day - shaft drive, three cycls, three discs etc. I saw the linked braking on a Guzzi and converted my Yamaha to the same system, it worked really well. My friend with the Guzzi demonstrated the safety of the system by braking on a gravel surface and pointing out that the rear wheel had locked first, I tried the same with my modified Yamaha with similar results. My local dealer was finishing as a Guzzi dealer in favour of Yamaha so I managed to get a good deal for the year old Yamaha and bought the last Guzzi T3 they had in the shop at a great price.
I intend to convert my V11, immediate problems seem to be way the brake light switch holds the hose to the rear master cylinder, there wont be enough thread to connect the second hose. Using a longer standard brake hose bolt would mean no rear brake switch. May have to fit a mechanical switch. I will post when I get it done.
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If you were asking about my MyECU, I built it although not without problems, as posted on the MyECU forum, had it running for a few days when it quit. Probably my assembly quality.
Have just built another one and am now trying to get that to run.
The TPS flying leads I added are certainly handy, for a instance - I rode around with the stock ECU and a multimeter reading the TPS voltage strapped to the tank, on the over run with a closed throttle it does not always go to the same setting as a cold stationary engine. I think it must be vacuum taking up the slack in the mechanical parts of the butterfly spindles etc. Perhaps this carefull setting is not really neccesary. For many years I was meticulous with ignition timing until I got an old kickstart sportster with manual advance and retard, once started it did'nt seem different wherever it was set!
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Sorry, truly did not mean to be rude, I had heard of KL - as in Kuala Lumpur but not KY. Even I have heard of America, I think we used to sell a lot of tea there.
Now on the search for brake pipe fittings to try out the linked system.
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I guess I am, forgive me for being a bit thick but where is KY, which country?
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So the main worry is the high wear rate of the rear pads. I will see if I can live with that, perhaps fit a different rear caliper?
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Oh the joys of youth, funny how we bounced back then.
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A lot to think about there.
About forty years ago I was riding along on my BSA Bantam with a new peak on my hemet, I was looking at my reflection in shop windows to see how cool I looked when the car in front stopped! This resulted in a broken right thumb and a chipped tooth. All has been well for years but now I am developing pain in my right thumb so thought of altering the bike to help.
I have noticed over the years how bikes have become much more front end loaded, all the handling seems to have moved to the front wheel with the rear just there for parking.
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My old T3 has the usual linked braking system - the footpedal operates the rear disk and one front disk, the handlever operates the other disk. I found this an excellent system particularly with thick winter gloves.
I fancy converting my V11 to this set-up, has anyone done this.
I ask as I assume the T3 rear master cylinder is sized to operate the two disks and of course the handlever to operate the single, will the standard V11 master cylinders be OK. Can I just run new brake lines in without changing any major components. One problem I notice is it may be difficult to connect two pipes to the rear master cylinder as it appears to use the switch to hold the present single line - I doubt there will be enough thread for two lines, perhaps there is a banjo available that has two connections, or perhaps delete the hydraulic switch and use a simple mechanically operated switch.
Any ideas?
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Sorry, not meant to be taken too seriously - I apologise.
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Ignition switch cut off and random wiring changes, I wonder if the frame and engine numbers have been ground off as well? Still, I suppose stolen bikes are a good source of cheap spares.
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Don't understand why the clutch would rattle if it is engaged. I can imagine it could be noisy when disengaged (clutch lever pulled) as the plates could flop around on their splines but when engaged the springs should hold everything tight - so why would it rattle.
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I always heat the bolt, I'm not trying to expand the alloy wheel to free the bolt just heating the loctite in the threads so it softens and allows the bolt to turn. You would need a tremendous amount of heat to warm up the whole wheel to the point where the rubber cush drives are damaged..
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Susuki Intruder, owner also has a Ford Probe.,
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Starting to look like most of my ideas, simple in the imagining but progressively harder in the realisation.
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That looks like what I am after, I have fitted higher bars so the longer cables will help as well, thanks for the help.
03 V11 runs like crap
in Technical Topics
Posted
Hi Felix420,
Don't understand your last post. Surely there is only one TPS sensor, how can you swop it over?