68C
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Posts posted by 68C
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Is anyone else having problems with the MyEcu website and forum, I keep getting an Internet Explorer error 403, "don't have permission to access site". I changed to IE 9 recently, not sure if the problem is at my end or theirs. (This is a V11 relevant post as it is the website for Cliff Jefferies who makes the MyECU replacement programmable ecu's for fuel injected Guzzis.)
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I always stick a thumb over the plug hole and turn the back wheel until I find compression. Then slowly advance the engine until I see the S or D through the timing window, I turn the engine tooth by tooth using a screwdriver on the starter ring gear which you can also see through the timing hole. I used to do it that way on my old T3, I still do it now as it is almost impossible to remove the alternater cover on the later models as the front crossover gets in the way.
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Has anyone built the Optimiser with the OPTIM007 circuit board?
I am having trouble building up my kit as it differs from the photos on the MyEcu website. The new pcb has the switches mounted directly to the board so should be easier to wire up, but I cannot tell which wires go where as the photos are all from the same angle obscuring some of them. The wires I am talking about are from the board to the potentiometers and to the display.
Perhaps someone could post photos making it clear.
Thanks.
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I am having the same problem.
Vista with Explorer 9.
Tried hovering cursor over the box with my username in top right corner, several drop down boxes appear - one with with 'messages (3) '.
appear. As soon as I click on it it jumps to My Profile.
I think messages are from Kiwi_Roy so feel embarresed I have not replied to him. Perhaps you could PM to explain.
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I stripped back the insulation and soldered two wires onto the loom from the TPS near the ECU, then covered with self amalgamating tape. I now have a two pin socket permanently fitted so easy to check. Might be overkill though as the setting should'nt change once fitted. I am now trying to set up the MyEcu I just built so has come in handy.
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Initialy a bit confused by your answer, my fault not yours!
So the volt regulator isnt set to a normal 14.4 volts for good battery charging but to a lower 13.8 volts! Then the permanently on headlamp drops the voltage below 13.8 volts at which point the regulator ups the voltage until the dropped voltage is back to 13.8, this needs 14.4 volts on the output to the battery to achieve. The diode effectively recalibrates the OEM regulator. I can feel a John McEnroe moment coming on, I though dear old Joe Lucas (the prince of darkness) had some odd ideas but this Guzzi one beats me. The engineering answer I suppose is to make up a new loom with decent wires and a more convential use of relays, the ignition and light switches only handling the field current to these relays. Might be a good time to add an alarm/immobiliser, power sockets etc.Oh, of course also fit a normal 14.4 volt rectifier/regulator.
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What if we relocate the sense wire to the output from the ignition switch, this would be nearer to the battery and give a more accurate sense of battery voltage. Headlight voltage would no longer be sensed so we can add relays without any problem. I believe we cannot connect it direct to the battery as the regulator would then always be live and so flatten the battery.
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Another one of your excellent diagrams Kiwi_Roy.
Now I can see that any resistance in the lines from the rectifier/regulator to the battery will cause a voltage drop that is not seen by the regulation circuit. The previous posts effectively reduce the voltage reaching D1 so the output voltage increases until the voltage at D1 is satisfactory, although the actual output is above nominal voltage. I assume the battery absorbs this excess voltage and prevents damage to other components. Is that how you see it.
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Have a look at this site, has a basic tutorial on motorcycle charging systems, they also sell rectifier regulators.
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Those silencer ends are exactly the kind of thing I hate on a bike, they are pretending to look like something rather than being it. Dishonest.
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Altough I mentioned this as an aside in a centre stand thread I thought I would repeat it here.
Has anyone tried fitting/modifying a Grisso or Breva 2:1 exhaust system to fit a V11. I imagine the header side of things would not be too difficult assuming clearance around the oil cooler - might have to be moved but hopefuly not into the ugly side mount. I thought to rotate the conection pipe to the silencer to exit on the right, more usual for left hand drive roads and to ease fitting of a centre stand so the lever 'wot yew stand on' fits close. I suppose going out to the left clears the drive box and enables a closer silencer fit. Could feel a bit odd having the centre stand on the 'wrong' side but could live with it. Obviously all this this requires some welding and won't be a simple swap.
Many bikes have the end can bolted up to a three bolt flange, might be possible to fit that and have a wealth of silencers to choose from.
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I ran into much the same problem making up a stand, my gash prototype was too far behind the center of gravity, probably need to be near the rear of the sump. Also placement of the lifting handle difficult due to widthe of silencer feed pipe.
Made me start to think along the lines of fitting/modifying a Grisso/Breva exhaust. Having the 2into 1 exiting on the left is not ideal for folk who drive on the left but was probably needed to suit the CARC. I was wondering if it would be possible to modify the crossover so that it exits on the right and so make the centre stand easier to operate as I could have a nice big lever to step on to lift it by.
I like centre stands, the bike is narrower in the garage, it is easier to wash and maintain, much simpler to get your luggage balanced and less risk of knocking it over, the kids can play on it!
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Oh...., dustbin FAIRING, I wondered why the black plastic stuck to the exhausts.
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Hi Warren, did not mean to steal your thread. As stated I think I agree with you.
Incidently, the company I work for set up an operation in Australia some ten years ago - they have proven the stronger section. We have just had a bunch of Aussie senior managers come over and restructure the original UK section. Are all Aussie managers so tough and brutal? - make the Americans seem positively benign.
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As is becoming obvious I am not a frame designer.
I am trying to get my head round why those Grisso tubes are considered more rigid as the arch over the heads, I accept the large diameter advantage but still don't get a curve being stronger than a straight tube. Perhaps a frame can be too rigid - was'nt this a problem with early carbon frames on race bikes? I understood perimeter frames fitted to inline fours evolved as a way of allowing almost vertical carb/throttle bodies to access a large airbox - nothing to do with handling, they are made of a thin wall large cross section construction partly to give the extra strength needed to accept the extra stress of being curved. Modern manufacturing made their use possible, perhaps it was'nt in the mid '70s.
My first Guzzi, a T3 new in '79 felt like a Brit bike always should have, torquey - good fuel consumption - leak free - reliable - excellent handling and brakes, something my Norton Commando was'nt.
I got the 750 Combat engined Commando new in '72, picked it up in London and drove it the seventy miles home. My Dad asked why the rear indicator was hanging off - the bracket had snapped. The following week the center stand snapped. 2000 miles later the disc brake pad suddenly flew out of the front of the caliper requiring frantic pumping to move the piston to contact the disc. Excellent design, the pads are not pinned in, the thickness of the backing material is the same as the gap between the caliper and the disc, when the friction lining wears out the pad moves. I was lucky it flew out, a mate had his jam the disc! At 3000 miles the main bearings failed, upping the traditional Brit bike rev limit of 6000 to a heady 7000 meant the crank flexed causing the edge of the the roller bearings to dig in - cured by fitting barrel shaped rollers. As for legendary Norton Handling - the rubber mounted swinging arm ensured you always had a story to tell. Having said all that I still have the bike, now halfway through the Great British Winter Rebuild of '98. OK, not a Guzzi story but it is mine.
No, the T3 was a relevation although over the years it became clear Guzzi had spent all the money on the engine, gearbox and running parts. Not much left for the seat, electrics, switchgear etc.
The new Guzzis are far better bikes than their predecessors, but then they should be, perhaps they have changed the focus on where they spend the money now. I just hope they are not wandering off down a path of cosmetics and follow my leader and lose their soul.
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Ain't that the truth, they are certainly richer than I am.
As with all rants it is important to stir plenty of egg into the mixture.
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I am so glad to see this thread. I don't much like the look of the newer (post V11) Guzzis either.
I have always liked honesty in design, it should be designed to DO a job, not LOOK like it does. Function really should determine form, I cannot believe those tubes running along the side of the Grisso are truly efficient, I suspect they are just shiny bits.
I also have an early Hinkley Triumph with it's version of a spine frame which sadly has an adverse effect on the breathing of the centre cylinder, however it is more honest than the T595. At first I fell in love with those lovely swooping alloy tubes - similar to handbuilt Spondon alloy frames - until I put my hand behind one and found it was only half a tube and cast at that! It was just lies.
The V11 Dr John inspired frame may not be pretty but it works - albeit by weighing a ton.
Why put covers over ugly bits of a bike, why not make the part attractive in the first place - it really does'nt cost that much more. I am talking to you late model Tonti California with all your little fake plastic chrome bits. Surely a starter motor can be made to look OK without the need for a cover, even if it is in Carbon Fibre - hardly a weight saving if it is an unneccesary extra.
I like 'sanitary' bikes, if you can take a part off and the bike still runs and is legal - you did'nt need it.
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What wonderful diagrams, well laid out and easy to understand. Thanks.
Hope this is a part of a series of such gems.
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Beautiful colour, first saw it on a pair of early V7s at the Isle Of Man TT in 1973, on my black Commando at the time. When I got home I painted it in the nearest colour I could get - Ford LeMans Green. Although the shade not exactly admired by others I was ahead of the times with the name. Finally got a T3 in '79 - black again, all they had in stock, soon painted it bright Bristow Helicopters red. Black bikes are like white cars - always look dirty.
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Hi GuzziMoto,
I think I understand your main point that we can arrange things to scavenge well on one cylinder but not on both, unless we swop the pipes around every revolution!
You mention the point where the two pipes meet is more important than pipe length, do you mean that acts as a venturi, the passing gasses suck on the other pipe rather than the void left be the passing slug of gas causing a depression?
I tried to draw a sine-wave graph of the position of the piston and valve opening over 720' of crank revolution but bogged down completely as I could'nt work out where to start the other cylinder, 90' before, 90' after, 630' ... ???
I suppose I like the idea of a lighter system, however my mate reckons the twin exhaust looks cool, my wife thinks weight could be lost from another part of the bike/rider set up.
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Does anyone on this forum have a good understanding of vee twin exhaust design and so help me get my mind round how our systems work?
Parallel twin four strokes with 360' cranks output one exhaust pulse per crank revolution. When running these exhaust pulses are evenly spaced prompting the use of two-into-one exhaust sytems whereby the first pulse is followed by a drop in pressure which helps the second pulse leave its cylinder and so on.
Vee twin four strokes of course don't have evenly spaced pulses so to make the pulses extract the next exhaust charge the exhaust pipes would have to be of different length before joining at the 2-1 so that the pulses appear evenly spaced.
Most of the exhaust systems on our V11's have equal length pipes before the 2-1,or crossover/balance pipe in our case.
I imagine this tuned exhaust system will only be most efficient at one rpm and possibly throttle position but it must have advantages, look at the snakes nest of exhaust pipes on a racing car. The Buells appear to have some attempt at altering the pipe lengths from the original Sportser.
So why don't we have 'tuned' manifolds or exhaust systems on our Guzzis?
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In hindsight I now realise I should have posted this as "Carbon Fibre rots metal", rather than refer to Ohlins forks as it not a specifically Ohlins problem.
Moderator, please ammend as you think fit.
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Hi PDOZ,
Thanks for following my thread. My original point was to hi-lite the unexpected nature of carbon fibre, in that allthough not a metal is does conduct electricity and so causes problems akin to the disimilar metal corrosion you referred too. The corrosion does not take place on or within the CF itself, it happens to the metal it is contact with. As an aircraft maintenance engineer I spend a lot of time grinding and polishing out corrosion, treating it chemicaly and ensuring the metal is reprotected adequately. Apart from the loss of metal caused by corrosion it is the rough uneven surface that act as stress raisers and can cause premature failure that is the biggest problem - hence the polishing. Although I had a basic knowledge that CF can cause these problems I had not seen it myself, mainly because I work on older aircraft that do not have CF, I was thus suprised at the damage to the forks on a bike made in 2004. I thought it worth raising the issue. I mentioned this corrosion to a friend who told me of similar problems with a carbon fibre hugger he fitted to the alloy swinging arm of a modern Triumph, his had corroded within a year.It may be wise to look at any CF parts such as alternater covers which are very exposed.
Have fun.
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Ah, I think I know where this going.
MyEcu website problems, error 403
in 24/7 V11
Posted
How bizarre, googling MyEcu lists the website OK but when I click on it I get the error 403. Using your link I go straight to the MyEcu website, but then clicking on the Forum option again gives the 403 comment.
Might have a go with firefox.