czakky Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 The only real tricky part is the rotor nut removal, I use a screwdriver on the ring gear through the porthole while torquing the nut. Some say to store the rotor in the stator too. Apparently they lose magnetism over time. Depending on age/mileage of your bike consider timing chain tensioner too. I wussed out on replacing mine last time.... Make sure you've got a crank seal handy too. This wasn't the super informative thread I thought it was my apologies.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Has anyone done this before? The manual mentions using a flywheel lock tool to lock the crank and then remove the rotor and stator.You can try by removing the rubber plug on the right side of the engine, sticking in a really large flat screwdriver between the teeth and the housing, thus locking the flywheel against the housing. I managed to undo mine the other day, without any visible damage. Just beware, this is not an official procedure. May backfire! Yes and don't forget to wear your blue and white striped butchers apron while your doing it. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 4 year oil leak fixed! The top part of the timing cover gasket had dropped down below the casing during installation and wasnt sealing. Replaced it with a new one and should be tight now. While I was in there, I noticed my alternator stator was really dirty. I dont like the looks of black and green coil windings. I cleaned the sh1t out of it but i'm a little worried about this. Did you use one of the later metal composite gaskets? will prevent this happening again. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gottagetone Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 I ordered the crank seal and timing gasket yesterday, not going to worry about the tensioner as the bike only has 8k on the odo....unless its a murphy law thing and its shot when I get in there. Harpers said they install all their gaskets dry, thinking I may give Hondabond a try to hold the gaskets in place, it get solid reviews. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Hondabond is ( I think ) a gasket eliminator. My vote is Hylomar or CopperCoat on the gasket surface . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Hondabond is ( I think ) a gasket eliminator. My vote is Hylomar or CopperCoat on the gasket surface . Both sides? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Just enough ( either Hylomar or Coppercoat or the other ) on both sides . The Hylomar gets my nod because if the part has to be removed the gasket will not be damaged or stick to the mating surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gottagetone Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Hylomar and Hondabond are basically the same thing, they never totally set up but rather provide a tacky surface to hold your gasket in place...kinda like a post it note. I have copper coat and have used that with success in the past. Parts came in today so its getting close to time to make the repair along with an oil change and prolly gear oil change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nobleswood Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 I'll be interested in watching you work through this, as I have the same issue. Take some pictures along the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Be sure to purchase a rotor removal tool ! Also , as far as what type of gooey to use on gaskets , buy a lot of different products and experiment on things... FWIW. I bought 10 different brands of Dry Film Graphite spray before I found one that suited me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gottagetone Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Rotor removal tool? I thought you just removed the nut with a 32mm then pulled the stator? Ill try to take pics, much of the time I get carried away and forget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Never had a problem removing the rotor without a puller. My crank is not tapered. Holding the ring gear takes some fiddlin but is doable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 I ordered the crank seal and timing gasket yesterday, not going to worry about the tensioner as the bike only has 8k on the odo....unless its a murphy law thing and its shot when I get in there. Harpers said they install all their gaskets dry, thinking I may give Hondabond a try to hold the gaskets in place, it get solid reviews. If you are going to use a gasket you shouldn't be using anything on the gasket, that's what gaskets are for sealing between 2 faces. Coating gaskets with any form of sealant stops the gasket Keying to the sealing face. As I said in a previous post use the later metal composite gasket ....without sealant! They are far superior and wont lose sections. They are also coated with a pressure sensitive coating as well that forms the seal. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gottagetone Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 Thanks gents, after reading and visiting with the guys at Harpers I think I will do as Phil said and not use anything on the gasket. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gottagetone Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 Quick update, got most of it apart but things really slow down when a stubborn allen head strips.... I borrowed an extractor kit from a friend but his, the Snap on Type, would not fit down into the slot as the allen head that stripped was inside the stator cover down in a recessed spot so off to get a new tool and boom, with a bit of work, it came right out. I now have to remove the two frame bolts and the two tricky spot allen heads up near the top of the timing cover. I went ahead and drained the oil first as I am going to change it anyway. I have been taking pics and will post once the job is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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