czakky Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 My idiot/oil light went out today (hopefully) and when I went to try and take the cover off the plastic dash panel, the three little 3mm allen heads would just spin and spin. The schematics don't show any nut so these aluminum screws must be tapped right into the plastic? Is there any trick to getting these out? Or am I just screwed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 I was thinking to take the back cover off first. Silly, though, what would be the cover "behind" the lights is toward the front of the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Are you sure it's the lamp, the switches are known to fail on a regular basis, short the switch terminal to ground to test the lamp. Here are some pictures, the first 4 show the assembly. There are brass inserts in the plastic which is split on mine but I am still able to take the screws out. Remove the back off the dash and pop out the lamp assembly so you can take off the clear plastic cover and filter to access the lamps. From memory I grabbed the brass insert with needle nose pliers from the rear (picture 4) while unscrewing the allen screws, they come out easy now. To remove the lamps once you get the cover off slip a little tubing over them, this allows you to grip the glass with needle nose pliers. You can also wiggle the rubber lamp holder out the back. http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/Dash I highly recommend upgrading the lamps from incandescent to LEDs, they are much brighter. The lamp holder in picture 1 (from the V11 Sport) has been upgraded, at first I thought it would just be a simple replacement with type 74 lamps but the base on these short out the lamp-holder so the wires were soldered to the lamp as I show on the text page The later photos (5 - 10) I took while upgrading my V11 EV with type 194 LEDs, it's a nice winter project I JB Welded the LEDs into the plastic housing, and because there was no room for lamp-holders simply soldered the leads directly to the lamps (picture 8). The only one that's a bit special is the low fuel indicator, it needs to pass more current than the LED supplies so I just wired one of the original lamps in parallel and tucked it into the back of housing. Why not just use a resistor you may ask - incandescent lamps are a very special resistor because cold their resistance is very low so they provide near to full voltage to the thermistor type fuel sensor. I also get the oil light on dimly sometimes if it's raining, I could easily fix that by adding a bit of extra load but as it rarely rains in Vancouver I haven't bothered. The 194 lamps I used were 12V AC which was nice since I didn't have to worry about polarity. DC lamps will work also but you need some means of rectifying the signal for flashers. SuperbrightLEDs dot com is a good source of lamps if you are in Nth. America. http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/wedge-bulbs/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/ I used the 90 degree option. Make sure the LED colour matches the filter they are behind, unlike incandescent LEDs have a very narrow spectrum, if you use the wrong colour it won't show through the filter, in theory anyway Superbright also sell lamp-holders for the 194 but I found them too big for the space and they loose contact with the lamp if ther;s any tension on the wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welshguzzi Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 That little plastic housing is disintegrating on mine. The 3 screws spin round on mine as well - the little nuts don't seem to be held firm and are impossible to undo. I've decided that when I have to get in there it'll be a case of breaking the plastic and ordering a new one. Best left alone for the time being...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 Are you sure it's the lamp, the switches are known to fail on a regular basis, short the switch terminal to ground to test the lamp. No I'm not sure but I assumed it would be easiest to check the bulb first, key word "assumed". Also, even after all my electrical issues I have never seen my generator/battery light come on and I though someone said that it's supposed to go on when key is in the on position?? Plus I had just washed my bike and water likes to sit in that dash panel. But either way I just thought I'd get in there and take a looksee. Here are some pictures, the first 4 show the assembly. There are brass inserts in the plastic which is split on mine but I am still able to take the screws out. Remove the back off the dash and pop out the lamp assembly so you can take off the clear plastic cover and filter to access the lamps. From memory I grabbed the brass insert with needle nose pliers from the rear (picture 4) while unscrewing the allen screws, they come out easy now. To remove the lamps once you get the cover off slip a little tubing over them, this allows you to grip the glass with needle nose pliers. You can also wiggle the rubber lamp holder out the back. Awesome, those pics help! wasn't sure if it was two pieces or not. Even if I can get two screws I'm sure I can get that third one out. Not sure if I'm ready for the LED upgrade yet. My lights are actually pretty bright now since you helped me save my electrical system this summer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welshguzzi Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 That little plastic housing is disintegrating on mine. The 3 screws spin round on mine as well - the little nuts don't seem to be held firm and are impossible to undo. I've decided that when I have to get in there it'll be a case of breaking the plastic and ordering a new one. Best left alone for the time being...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welshguzzi Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 I'm not going to say it again.... ( Don't quite know how that happened!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Hey if we say it enough maybe they'll start listening at the factory! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 RE spinning bolts - the plastic bulb housing (body) is the culprit. I had to take the gauges off and pull it all apart. It looks like the anchors are molded into the housing and it just fell apart around them. I've just ordered a new one from Harpers for $5.80 p/n (02 76 63 00) Seems too good a price to be true, so double check p/n with fiche. I'm taking the occasion to refurb the dash - rubbers, speedo cable boot, etc. I also noticed where water has puddled in the back of the housing. Maybe I will drill a small hole at the bottom of each side. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Yeah, that is ridiculously cheap. I've noticed a few of their parts off the diagram are "too good to be true" cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 oops, forgot. 2 of the dash rubber mounts (silent block) came apart on me as well. Those are what the 3 larger allen bolts holding the dash panel to the bike screw into. replacing those also, from MG ...they look like better than oem aftermarket parts and they are cheaper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 -that would be MG Cycle p/n 93222023 for the silent blocks. I didn't realize links could not be posted ----------------------------------- done deal.... thanks for the help docc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 footgoose, I inserted the MG Cycle link. You should be able to copy and paste the web address from the target to the link icon in the menu above the reply box (ninth from the left). Simply highlight the text you want linked, open the link window and paste in the address. Try the one for the Harper's part. Let me know if it keeps giving you trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 That little plastic housing is disintegrating on mine. The 3 screws spin round on mine as well - the little nuts don't seem to be held firm and are impossible to undo. I've decided that when I have to get in there it'll be a case of breaking the plastic and ordering a new one. Best left alone for the time being...... If you remove the back cover you should be able to grab the brass inserts with a pair of needle nose pliers (pinch them to the plastic) while you undo the Allen screws after you get them out the screws will loosen up or you gan secure the inserts from the rear. BTW, check the Oil and generator lights the same way Short the terminal of the oil pressure switch to chassis to check the oil light. Sort the White wire of the Black / White pair at the regulator to chassis to check the charge light. Both done with the key on of course Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Thanks once again K_Roy, man of all things electric. After testing the oil pressure switch (it worked) now it seems to be working fine. So my guess is either a bad connection at the dash (haven't been in there yet....still) or maybe a fading switch? I have never had one off so I don't know how simple/complex it is but I'll get around to it. The generator light isn't as much of a bother plus I just got all the wiring wrapped up after messing with my TC gasket, but I now know how to check it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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