guzzi1 Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 a buddy of mine has an 01 or 02 v11 with a clutch that slips.it is the worst when cold and has gotten worse in the last couple monthes.how long to change it?i have a 03 lemans and know that someday i'll have to do mine and this will be a good learning experiece for both of us.i have a bike lift in my garage a factory manual and access to an ex guzzi shops special tools.i know it's a lot of work but some inside info would be cool.thx daveg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 How long depends of course on who's doing it, Dave?? I had my gearbox out one day and back in the next, but I was pretty meticulous about cleaning everything on the way in and out, and cleaned and threadlocked every fastener, and took the opportunity to grease the ancillary stuff the Luigi's missed in Mandello. It's pretty straightforward, and there are a few shortcuts and safety items I'd recommend when crabbing the frame, such as leaving the rear subframe in place on the RHS porkchop, only removing the LHS porkchop, and carefully supporting the whole menagerie very securely from above well before you start for MANDATORY safety purposes. YMMV. That's all comes to mind now, but good luck in any case, and any Q's, post 'em here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzi1 Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 i figured 2 days myself.after studying the manual and looking the bike over that seem right.it all looks pretty straight forward.i couldn't see any reason it would be harder than a small car.and everythings out in the open.as for cribbing it up i've had my 03 off the ground with both wheel off and yes it is tricky.i'm making a cradle for the bottom of the motor that doesn't put pressure on the oil pan but around the outer edge.i have a air lift out of a dealership so this will help on the old back.if anybody can think of any other "tricks" to make this easier please let me know.i will try to take and post pics for others as we do this.thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete roper Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 i figured 2 days myself.after studying the manual and looking the bike over that seem right.it all looks pretty straight forward.i couldn't see any reason it would be harder than a small car.and everythings out in the open.as for cribbing it up i've had my 03 off the ground with both wheel off and yes it is tricky.i'm making a cradle for the bottom of the motor that doesn't put pressure on the oil pan but around the outer edge.i have a air lift out of a dealership so this will help on the old back.if anybody can think of any other "tricks" to make this easier please let me know.i will try to take and post pics for others as we do this.thx General consensus among folks who've done a lot more spineys than me is that it is better to pull the engine off the front rather than the gearbox off the back. I'll leave it to someone who has done it that way to explain but it shouldn't be very hard. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 It's far easier if you leave the trans in situ, and instead pull the engine from it. Remove the headers and any fairing bits. Block under the engine. Remove the bolts holding the front subframe to the engine, loosen the bolts holding hte subframe tothe spine frame, and rotate the subframe forward toward the forks. Unbolt the trans. Pull the engine forward a couple inches on its blos, so it is free of the trans. Turn the engine sideways. Replace the clutch. About 3 hours in and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzi1 Posted May 17, 2008 Author Share Posted May 17, 2008 that makes total sense yet i would not have thought of it.the picture is worth a 1000 words too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted May 17, 2008 Share Posted May 17, 2008 I don't think the way I removed the transmission would work on the later V11 Sports/LeMans models with the additional bracing at the swingarm area, but on my (former) 2001 V11 Sport I was able to remove the transmission in 1.5 hours without removing the engine. The memory is faded, but I removed the rear wheel, unbolted the swingarm and pulled it back, unbolted the front parts of the lower frame at the porkchops, loosened the rest of the lower frame bolts a tad then pivoted that down and then raised the entire rear half of the bike up a couple of inches and removed the transmission. Pretty easy. Add the clutch replacement in there and re-assembly and it is conceivably possible to do the job (with the proper tools - Catch 22) in maybe 4-5 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevototem Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Hi to all, I change the clutch of my v11 your Paul's way. Just separating the engine forward to the front wheel. My dealer give me the 2 especial tools and I use them. No problem here. But now when I put the engine back if I move the rear wheel by my hand and put first gear the engine don't move looks like the gearbox pinion is pushing the clutch discs. What I have to do now? How do you align the gearbox pinion to the engine clutch? Thx and best regars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoguzzi Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Hi to all, How do you align the gearbox pinion to the engine clutch? Thx and best regars not sure if this helps but you need the clutch plates all aligned and it should slip together? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevototem Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Hi, THX, I think are align cos I can assemble the engine to the gearbox. But when the engine and gearbox are together and put first gear the rear wheel can be turne by hand freely. If I separate the engine and gearbox some mm the clutch start to work ok... I think that something is pushing the clutch discs... What do u think? I think that maybe the clutch push rod is not correct. anyone have this problem? Best regards... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Why did you do this work ? Can you post pictures of the damaged or won parts ? Do you have pars diagrams to see if there are any missing or incorrectly installed parts ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevototem Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Hi, I did this work cos I have to change the clutch discs. I check with the workshop manual. All installation OK, no parts missing but I think that the clutch push rod is not correct some how... Best regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevototem Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Hi, mistery solved, the push rod plate base in the clutch was not centered. Thx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 . . . the push rod plate base in the clutch . . . Where is that, exactly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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