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Yup, NZ regs don't allow a GPS speedo. Apparently the bureaucrats are concerned about us not knowing our speed in a tunnel or between tall buildings. The 7 second initialization bothers them too. However they are ok with my wildly inaccurate miles speedo in a metric country.

I installed a 12V DIGITAL LED meter on my 2007 Norge without fiddling around or tapping into the wiring, using a direct connection from the battery. This also fixes the always-on problem or parasitic drain, thanks to a touch-on and touch-off feature built into the meter. It cost $5 US from Amazon. I used a hole saw to cut into the upper flat part of the Norge fairing and ran the wiring directly from the battery. clicky>> https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Voltmeter-Digital-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B0CQ881B52?gQT=1&th=

There ya go, Roy, fixed. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Voltmeter-Digital-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B0CQ881B52?gQT=1&th=1

I like the switch feature, please attach a link to the Amazon advert. A Voltmeter is good for peace of mind, I bought a new V7 in 2017 with a short in the stator, struggled for weeks with weak charging before the stator was replaced under warranty but now with a Voltmeter I can relax. I have mine connected to the running light in the headlight bucket. On with the key.

Took the Ballabio on a spirited ride this evening for about total 2.5 hours, from Vancouver up the Sea to Sky twisty highway towards Whistler and back. Filled fuel before and after. Fuel mileage was 38 miles to US Gal or just over 42 to Imp Gal. It does top appear that it is running rich, looking at fuel mileage and plug colour.

@docc appreciate the follow up. During 20 year work last winter / spring replaced cam chain and the tensioner foot and spring. The cam chain had no measurable wear, tensioner foot barely showed wear, just did it as was replacing gasket and to be sure it was not causing any issues. With stator out checked carefully, looks good and measures correctly, replaced zip lock as you recommend ( it was broken), the yellow leads at the bullet connectors looked like they has been warm enough to discolor at some time. and the white plug with two yellow static wires has some melting and on wire as well. Removed all that and went spade connectors (soldered to yellow wires covered in shrink tubing ), with just the one joint instead of two places. Also had put ground wire from regulator to timing case a few years ago and cleaned and monitor original ground to back of gearbox. Battery ( matgas ) was new last year and kept on tender if not using more than a couple days. Charging system and battery show numbers per specs. Replaced TPS during 20 year work, had checked before replaced and appeared to function correctly with no jumps, but to eliminate as cause of issue replaced it. Made no difference to missing issue. Really the only things I think remain to verify is fuel filter, injectors and fuel pump, and remembering it is running great right now with only the TPS at not standard setting and air screws at 1/2 out.

My bike had aftermarket PRC stainless cans on it when i bought it.They sound ok,but look wrong on the bike.I like the reverse cone satin mistral mufflers with the mistral head pipes and crossover.The bike does sound very good with the stock exhaust while riding,deep throaty sound but a but it would be nice to upgrade.The oem Lafranconi mufflers are seemingly well made,rugged, compared to some aftermarket cans with paper thin stainless bodies

No alternative sources for this simple switch? I know someone posted one here before with a connection variation ( cannot find that post . . . ) After shimming my switch with a new (on hand) crush washer, the switch function was restored. One more amazing, honorable shout-out to this forum and its contributors! My wire connection, female spade connector, to the switch is really weak, and the rubber boot has hardened. The other day, I saw the neutral light flickering at idle and thought about the middle /#3/ "Sidestand"/ Neutral Switch Relay. This is the least stressed relay in our five relay stack. I consider it the "back up relay" if you need to swap one into a more demanding position (#1, #2, #5). My #3 is my oldest, 2021, and only remaining OMRON G8HE. Yes, I paint-pen the installation date on each relay. I was all staged to replace the middle/#3/ "sidestand"/ Neutral Switch Relay with a fresh OMRON and remembered: The Neutral Light illuminates from the Neutral Switch/connection (not the #3 relay). The Neutral Light can come on, yet the #3 relay has failed and the bike will not start and run with the sidestand down (failed relay). Or the Neutral Light can get flinky and it's the switch or the connection to the switch, but not the relay. A work in progress . . .

We all have spines, in various states of disrepair.

Eight weeks out. Changed engine and gearbox oil, Decent Tune-up, and addressed some niggles. Pondering matters of tires . . . [edit/46 minutes later: "pondering" turned into a fresh set of Pirelli Angel GT on the way . . . ]

We had a Spine Raid Jail Break Saturday meeting at Linda’s 5th St Diner in Bowling Green KY. After a good brunch, we rode around Southern KY, totally 350+ miles. The weather couldn’t be better, the Mivv’s were pouring out a glorious soundtrack. Thank you all for attending and what a great “idea” to get together, break bread and ride! images here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/gallery/album/323-spine-raid-jail-break/

Good people, good food, good riders (even the ones who didn't tell us they needed gas till we'd past the last one in Bowling Green) 🤠 Thanks for celebrating my birthday with me! And for being nice about my inability to tell time.🤓

Bellissimo!