Rolf Halvorsen
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Posts posted by Rolf Halvorsen
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Did you leave your bed with the wrong foot first today?
Since I have some knowledge about casting in aluminium - I thought that my teory could explain why the later boxes seems not to crack so often as the earlier types.
Smile to the world - and the world will smile back.
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11 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
These are not available new anymore and haven't been for at least 32 months. I ordered and paid for one almost 3 years ago and was advised by HMB that the factory don't have stock anymore. You have mentioned previously "different alloy" for later versions but never produced any evidence of it and now it's "re manufactured" by the original producer and "maybe" changes to the casting? I'd like to believe it's true but I'll need to see some evidence. If we are going to add to the body of knowledge we need establish facts based on something solid, either comparative measurements or documented updates etc.
Ciao
If the producer has changed some parametres of the casting process - or increased some radiuses in that dangerous area, we will never be informed.
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Depending on which side you have logged into for HMB-Guzzi, you get 2 answers:
1 - available for about 260 Euros
2 - For the moment not available
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I logged into HMB-Guzzi and search for 01200290
Momentan nicht verfügbar
Was the answer
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Yes I have bought 2 or 3 from HMB-Guzzi.
They were beautiful - casted by the original producer - after process changes and maybee also changes in the radiuses in that area.
I would not hesitate to buy again.
Rolf
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Ok. I will buy 100 today. "Nice to have" - to sell to my Guzzi friends when the spring comes.
OMRON: I have bought 100 - 5 Pins and 100 4-Pins earlier. All of the 5-pins are sold.
The 5-pins are easier to use since they can be used in all positions, so you do not need to think if you need to change a relay "on the road". Just switch with one of the other relays.
PS: I have made myself a small print which I keep on board - telling which relay / which function. If I get an electrican problem "on the road" - then I know which relay I can take out.
Rolf
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What about the maximum switching current of 30A?
I think the Omron had 40A.
Rolf
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On 10/29/2021 at 3:03 PM, Rolf Halvorsen said:
It seem that 2975915 Cal 2/3/1100) and 375910 (Centauro) has the same switch part - but another cable connection. Maybe I can buy one of them and change connector?
Thanks for info anyway. Maybe someone else will be happy about this latest info.
The sidestand pickup for V11 Sport is 01759130. I can now verify that the pickup-sensor and the wire lenght are identical on all these side stand pickups (mentioned above) Only the cable connector are different. This makes it easier to get a new pickup and only change the connector.
When the sidestand is active - the wires are not in contact witheach other. When the sidestand is in a drivable position - the wires have connection with each other.
This means that if you have a defect pickup, you can take away the cable and put both wires in contact with each other. Then you can drive as normal.
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Thank you for this reply. Gutsibits writes that they hav 5 used one available (but no shipping to US or Canada).
I bought one used one as said before - and found a brand new one in Norway - 375910 (Centauro) .
When I get them both - I can see if the sensor are identical and that only the cable connection are different.
Rolf
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I bought the used one you refered to.
It seem that 2975915 Cal 2/3/1100) and 375910 (Centauro) has the same switch part - but another cable connection. Maybe I can buy one of them and change connector?
Thanks for info anyway. Maybe someone else will be happy about this latest info.
Rolf
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Thank you for info. I see that this one and another one on eBay both are used.
I am hoping to find someone that can sell me a new one.
I will be waiting for more people to reply.
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Searching for a side stand switch for my Coppa Italia. Can anyone give me a lead?
Rolf
Norway
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Well, I would try to find a thin plain washer with the approximal inner and outher diameter + loctite on the peg-nut. It should work without the washer of some kind - but I would be happier with a plain washer.
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The timing sensor comes in 2 versions:
With 3 pins - 01721600
With 2 pins - 29721660 ( used for CAL3 IE)
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Shim / gasket sensor comes in more than 3 dimensions:
0,3mm - 0172270000
0,4mm - 0172270100
0,5mm - 2972276000 I have no idea why this size has another article number, but it looks to be identical with the others.
0,6mm - 0172270200
0,8mm - 0172270300
1,0mm - 0172270400
1,5mm - 0172270500
O-ring: - 9070614100 dimension ø15x2
I must correct my information about the diameter of the sensor well. The sensor diameter is just a little smaller than Ø15mm. The bolt size I used was not 3/8" - it was 9/16" which is close to Ø14mm.
I will ask Tom to increase the gauge piston size from about Ø10 to about Ø14. This to ensure that the bottom of the piston touches the teeths of the cam wheel in a better way.
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I am proud to present these new dept gauges - produced by our Norwegian member Tom Christiansen.
He and me has discussed the best method of deciding which shim thickness should be used for our timing sensor. As the picture shows - I have found a 3/8" bolt and a nut - which should give me a good dept figure. But I was not fully satisfied with this simple tool. Tom produced some better tools - which ha can sell to our member friends.
The timing sensor needs about 0,5 - 0,8mm clearence to the timing wheel. I have measured one of my naked sensors to be about 29,6mm lenght (without any shims).
So first find the exact dept. Then reduce this number by let say 0,6mm. Then reduce this result by the lenght of your naked sensor. The result should give you the shim thickness.
Shims are produced in 3 thicknesses. 0,3 / 0,5 and 0,8mm. Use a correct material for the O-ring that can withstand oil.
These first 7 gauges will be presented to the Norwegian autumn club meeting, for about 40USD / 40Euro / 400NOK each.
If the V11 forum members are interested -. then I hope Tom will produce some more for sale during the comming autumn and winter.
Rolf
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Thank you both for your answer. I am learning something new every day. A few years ago I ordered 100ea. G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 from Online Components - and I have sold almost all off them to my Guzzi-friends in Norway. (I had to buy for high quantity to have them send for a reasonable shipping cost.) Now I wanted more of the same relays, and searching for Omron G8HE, I found that Online Components could deliver, so I bought another 100ea. - without checking the rest of the specification. Now these new 100ea. "A = 4-pins" are on their way. I am now happy to be able to inform my new "customers about the use of the A=4-pins and the C= 5-pins versions. Rolf
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G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12
I just "found" a supplier for OMRON G8HE-1A7T-R-DC12. Since we all talk about the "C"-version, what can you tell me about the "A"-version?
Rolf
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Replace your light relay (Number 2 from the front).
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Back to the original topic.
There must be a design error to use this lockwasher in this position since more than me have "found" broken off lock tabs INSIDE of the CARC - where this piece of steel has caused critical damage til the pinion/crownwheel and bearings.
I come to think it would be better to remove this lockwasher totally or replace it with an ordinary washer. This plus loctite only of the pinion nut only.
It is not always belt AND suspenders are such a fine combination.
Rolf
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In my opinion theese SKF-tools (KM 1, 2, 3, etc) has not the perfect form. Put the pipes in a lathe and remove the front 2-3mm. Thereby they will attach the peg screws better. And sometimes I had to reduce the outher diameter to get it into the house to attac the nut.
And for the old 5-speed Tonti gearboxes - SKF did not had that dimension - so I ordered about 100 directly from the SKF tool factory to be produced according to my drawings.
I hope that Pete still have them.
Rolf
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Pete
Then I can agree.
This locking design is not the best I have seen around. But the real reason for one of the locking tabs to break loose - and make trouble elsewere - is that when you apply some "high" torque on the bearing locking nut - then you will apply some "high" friction on the lockwasher.
In my case it was the locking tab inside of the lockwasher that had broken loose - and sometime later made trouble.
Whenever I have this kind of lockwasher - then I apply some grease on it to reduce the friction from the nut. This friction reducing method is not mentioned anywhere which I have seen.
Rolf
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Hi Pete and the rest of you.
A few years ago I was given a CARC that had some problems. I asked for this because I wanted to open it and try to find the reason why it had this damage.
After a full dismantle - I saw that the pinion was damaged - and from a teeth from the lockwasher.
I leant also that you could not buy a new pair of pinion/crown wheel.
When you Pete talk about the need of tightening the locking nut with high torque + Locktite - I come to think I remember that there is no distance cylinder (+ shims) between the 2 pinion conical bearings.
If you compare this design with the old bewelbox design - they had the distance cylinder + a number of thin shims, so that you could apply a high torque on the pinion locking nut.
My problem now is that you should not use preload on 2 opposite conical bearings without theese movement limiting cylinder and shims. That is why the factory has choosen another solution with only a lockwasher. I agree fully the need for Locktite - but I am not sure about the torque.
Am I remembering wrong?
Rolf
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Any shop can deliver theese.
The part number 90401526 means: Inner diameter 15 - outer diameter 26.
Rolf
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V11 greenie in trouble
in 24/7 V11
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My 2005 Coppa Italia has no extra gearbox support.
The pictures from Tom shown the right side of the gearbox house. I have rebuilt 5 such gearboxes - and all had leakage on the left side.