Pressureangle
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Posts posted by Pressureangle
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On 8/24/2022 at 1:55 PM, PJPR01 said:
Another plus for these, I've recently also installed them on my V11 Scura...very nice quality.
Docc will be pleased too since they are made in Tennessee!
Made in USA. I'm in. Even if Valpolini is better, I've never put a second set of paper valve cover gaskets on any of my bikes.
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On 8/26/2022 at 9:03 AM, Bill Hagan said:
My "fixes" have been both unsightly and unsuccessful. I'll spare you the graphic pix of those.
Bill, that sensor is not particularly...sensitive
The repair doesn't have to be pretty to be functional. If you like, bring it along to the 'raid and we'll set it right. If at all possible, bring it attached to the bike.
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11 minutes ago, docc said:
I did that dozens of times. Too many times to count. Up until that "one time" . . .
Never again would I jack my V11 without overhead support.
"Acceleration due to gravity" is an awesome force to observe. Especially if that force involves your-own-self, or some "thing" (your Guzzi !) you care about . . .
An added overhead "chain fall" or ratchet straps are easy money . . .
Belt and suspenders? Or let your pants fall down unexpectedly?
I unfortunately have no overhead available. Hey, it's all about risk management anyway, right?
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For front wheel service, I put a Pit Bull stand under the swingarm and a small jack with wood block under the front of the sump.
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On 8/11/2022 at 10:37 AM, docc said:
Yeah, man, the coil wire should have a terminal on it:
That connection can be vulnerable to damage:
Oof, one more thing to check before the Spine Raid.
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I've had mine all over the place. It doesn't seem to make much difference. I've run as low as 24/28. In both the Tail of the Dragon and Running 90+ down the Idaho panhandle between Glacier and Spokane, they were good at 28/30. But lower pressure had a noticeable increase in parking lot effort, so Iv'e kept them at 35 both ends since and it's...still fine. I haven't ridden these Dunlops hard yet but I'll set the pressure for best low-speed feel because it doesn't seem to make any difference in handling or traction below racing speeds. Docc may have the most data on mid- to high-speed curvy roads.
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So the exact mileage for the previous post- noting that I never fill all the way to the vent, so a little ~. 44.8mpg. Today's ride of 150 miles, 45-65mph with light traffic got the fuel lamp right on 121 miles again, so I'll assume it's right in the low-to-mid 40's as before. What I see here compared to before the Caruso gears is a big improvement in mileage around town, low mph/low speed, and consistently as good as ever before- which was not consistent. I'll eventually be testing whether I can cut fuel at these cruising speeds.
Today's food for thought; my roomie's Enfield Himalayan, just across 2k miles today, quit twice. Both times while hot and stopped at lights in town traffic. The RE's EVAP system is pointed to in anecdotes elsewhere. The second time, I pulled over and shut mine off. When I got her down the road, mine backfired and blew the RH throttle body off the manifold. That's never happened before (a backfire) and I'm blaming both bikes' issues on the increasing crap factor of the sewage they sell out of the gas pumps. Meh. -
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Took the 'Sport out the past 2 days, about 120 miles each day. Hot and sunny, in the 90s. First day was all 35-55mph, leisurely tooling without a lot of stops or traffic. I was very surprised to find on the fill-up the next morning it returned something over 50mpg- I did note that the fuel warning lamp came on at 102 miles. It has always come on at about half, ridiculously soon, so I noticed the distance. The second day, same weather but mostly 50-65mph, light traffic and a little town. My fuel lamp didn't come on until 120 miles of 127. Next fill I'll report the exact mileage.
The notes here are that in ~15k miles the best mileage I've ever seen before is about 45, and that was also in very hot weather with steady open 55-70mph roads.
I haven't done anything at all to the fuel system, nor changed the spark or fuel maps from previous rides. Unfortunately I did make more than one change since at once so I can't be specific as to cause. I installed the Caruso cam gears, and I will attribute the majority of the increase in mpg to them as the bike runs so much better at all speeds that it proves better efficiency. It has brand new Dunlop SS Road IVs at sidewall pressure. I changed the trans and bevel lubricant to Chevron Delo ESI 85-140. The last bit is worth watching, as the transmission seems quieter than with the RedLine shockproof although I changed the location of my camera microphone which makes objective measurement impossible. We'll do a temperature check at the Spine Raid to see if there is a meaningful reduction from other oils.-
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59 minutes ago, docc said:
Removing and replacing the GB carburettor makes the V11 injectors look like a cake walk (they're not).
I would be trying to run some fresh fuel (non-ethanol for the GB) with fuel system cleaner through both. I know restorationists that swear by SeaFoam for carbs.
(Although your "CW600" might no longer have the factory airbox fitted . . .)
For 'in place' carb refreshing, get some Chevron 'techron' in a bottle from auto parts. Fill the bowl through the fuel line, let work for half an hour then drain. Add a half-pint of Marvel Mystery oil to the tank of fresh non-Corngas, run it through and you'll either be golden, or you'll be taking it apart the hard way. Seafoam works pretty good but I've had awesome results with MMO in both gas tank and crankcase for freshen-ups.
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My T/S flasher failed on the last ride. It had been intermittently absent or lit/no flash for some time now. I replaced it with a 20A max (why? Tractor-Trailer?) LED flasher. I had to add a polarity reverser to the base, and remote ground wire. But it's bright and quick! Better than expected. At 1.8 amps, should last forever.
Boring, but it's raining today.-
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I'm going to try adding some Elmer's glue to the motor oil for a couple hundred miles to see if that works
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1 hour ago, docc said:
Makes me reluctant to tackle this gear change, seal/ gasket installation.
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58 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
I changed my original oil tight seal when I did the gears and fitted a new one when I built the daytona engine, both are fine. You need to use an OEM Unidirectional seal on these and the rear seal or any difficult to access seal for that matter. Thats what the original factory fit seals are not bidirectional seals. Same for the gearbox output shaft seal. make sure the seal sleeve isn't damaged on the sealing face.
Phil
I guess I'll call Harpers, then. This is BS lol
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42 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
The difference between an Aircraft engineer and a mechanic.
Phil
Truth. Risk management.
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When I put Caruso's gears in the 'Sport, I had no leaks. I replaced the front cover seal as a matter of course. The new one leaked. I replaced the leaking black seal with a new blue one. Just got it all back together again, went out for ~100 miles to find a few drops from the front seal again.
I had to replace the front seal in the '85 LM twice also. Is it the Chinese Conspiracy? Are the seals crap, or have I simply become an ape? WTF, universe?-
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Can't make RPM without air, it's getting in there somehow. Spray some liquid- I like WD40, or alternatively a combustible carb cleaner etc.- on the intake manifold gasket area and also the boot sealing joints. If you hear any change in RPM, you have a leak. Check to see your idle air screws haven't fallen out (never heard of such) The last time I had a high idle, it took a minute to figure out I'd left the 'choke' lever partially engaged. Regularly, my Kaoko cruise control drifts enough to make a high idle. This is one with simple answers, as fuel and spark cannot make RPM without air.
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1 hour ago, Walterg said:
The bike has to move so I'm putting everything together again. After that I'll figure out what to do next.
Grazy that I coudn't find anything. I hope it's not in the drive shaft damper (15 - 18) which I can't see unless I take the shaft out. Which I didn't.
My grandmother had a '82 Oldsmobile 98. After about 90k miles the rear axle started clicking annoyingly. We opened it up and had a look, found nothing. It got worse for a while, and never got better- but never failed either. The boss said, 'Sometimes you just have to let it break to see what was wrong'. My experience has shown that more than a few times over the years. My own 'Sport 5 speed had a 'pop' or 'click' in the driveshaft (I thought) so when rolling in neutral or spinning the wheel on a stand you could hear an audible noise with every driveshaft rotation. I'd had the shaft apart, everything is in fine shape. No aberrations could be felt in either the transmission or rear axle without the shaft. I disassembled the rear axle recently, looking for something. The only change I made was to replace the outside axle bearing in the gear housing. Now, the noise is gone. I can't make any sense of it, can't assign a root cause, but it's dead smooth and silent now. <shrug> If it don't matter, it don't matter.
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I just checked- I've never had them off on the 'Sport, mine are identical to those on the '85 LM1000. That is to say, they're a PITA but can be removed with common end wrenches. Some wrenches are thinner and smaller than others, could play havoc. Or the later bikes may have a different connection altogether. I got nothin'.
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1 minute ago, Tomchri said:
Still no luck finding that rubber protection for the rear master cyl
. Seems it didn’t do much for Pressureangle though.
Cheers Tom.
Mine is split open at the top. I cleaned everything up and used liquid electrical tape to seal it. This will be a regular maintenance check at least with any tire or brake service.
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Take my advice- since I'm probably only the latest in a long history of sufferers- use Craig DeOxit on all your relay terminals and use silicone (dielectric) grease when you assemble them. I chased gremlins for a long time, rejecting advice here from multiple sources, which turned out to be dirty relay contacts. Despite changing relays multiple times with the last time to the hard-to-find Omrons, nothing fixed it all until I cleaned and sealed the contacts properly.
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First ride after major maintenance. Brake light failed.
Bulb not grounding. Fixed, then brake light stayed on constantly.
Spacer behind handlebar switch missing. (there is a spacer there, right?)
Found this too, drat it all.
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The first thing you lose sight of as an expert in any discipline is that everyone begins without knowing even the most basic tasks.
So with that in mind, don't be afraid to ask basic questions. Yes, changing the oil is as simple as draining the oil from the plug at the rear, and changing the oil filter. I only change my filter every 2nd or 3rd oil change.-
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Here's where to start; follow the links to 'Frequently asked questions' and 'how-to'.
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Front brake calliper upgrade
in Technical Topics
Posted
I was roadracing at the advent of differential size caliper pistons. It's simply to mitigate wedge wear, as Docc illustrated above. The mechanism is simple, the larger piston has more surface area, multiplied by the hydraulic pressure so it pushes harder against the pad. It's nothing to do with gassing, it's simply a counteraction to the natural twisting forces applied to the pad, forcing the leading edge into the rotor with greater wear.