Pressureangle
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Posts posted by Pressureangle
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Lucky day.
Use Murphy's Oil Soap on the leather (or fabric) to take the gas out. May take a couple tries but it will eventually work. Then apply Mink Oil to seal the leather and any residual smell.-
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If I understand the factory 1100 Sport-i ECU correctly, the TPS value is intended to reflect a specific throttle blade position, which guarantees that the fuel map and the airflow match up correctly. If that's the case, idle speed needs the separate adjustment of air screws. I'm not familiar enough to make intelligent comment beyond that.
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3 minutes ago, docc said:
I've seen all of these settings. The 1999-2000 V11 Workshop Manual uses 1/2 turn. Meinolf's Map uses zero. The "Decent Tune-up" has a full turn as a starting point, then turning each in or a out to get a good throttle body balance at idle. So, certainly not as critical as, say the TPS baseline.
I found that if the two air bypass screws have to be set significantly different (like 1/2 turn) from one another, there is likely a vacuum leak somewhere.
But, yes, to your question - I would think the 1100 Sport could be set the same as the V11. Since the ECU is different, I am not certain about the TPS setting, though. Perhaps @Pressureangle or others know . . .
I have a Jeffries MyECU. The TPS can be set anywhere from 0.0v to 150mv but you have to edit the text file manually to reflect the idle TPS value.
There is no way to know the airflow through the airscrew passages. The best theoretical sequence for balancing throttles is to close the butterflies to as close to zero as possible physically, then set idle speed with butterfly position screws, then balance idle vacuum with idle air screws. In practice, there is no need for either or both screws to pass any air at all, as no fuel is drawn in by them and injected fuel must pass the butterflies by moving air so having them open a little farther at idle is a good thing, as long as you can adjust your TPS to suit. If your butterflies are equalized by position at idle, they are equalized by position all the way through their travel; if you have significant variance in vacuum anywhere in the rpm range you have to look elsewhere for the root cause. Usually it's valve adjustment or intake valve carbon deposits. It can also be unbalanced fuel injectors, as the A/F ratio and atomization also contribute to vacuum. Not to be ignored is the likelihood that the camshaft is not perfect with symmetrical timing on both cylinders. You can adjust vacuum slightly by adjusting intake valves differently from side to side.
All these are reasons I use the 80/20 rule on cylinder balance; I care most about idle quality and light throttle drivability than whether I'm getting 30hp from one cylinder and 34 from the other at 4500rpm. Adjusting EFI to perfection is a fool's errand if you're not being paid for it. If you're not certain you have everything satisfactory after your tune-up and balance, read your spark plugs. They are the definitive arbiter of your A/F mixture differential.-
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1 minute ago, MartyNZ said:
I wonder if some 2-stroke oil would reduce corrosion in those parts?
I use Marvel Mystery Oil (US brand, a century old) in the fuel periodically because it removes carbon, varnish, and white deposits. This appears to be actual rust, probably from the PO never changing the filter. In any case, it never washed out with anything I tried, and there's plenty in the injector screens as well.
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TFW you knew what you'd find. Surprising the thing ran well. Obviously never seen daylight since new.
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...and why to verify your source; these are not 'Chinese copies' these are *Counterfeit* in Bosch packaging, 'made in Germany'. I once ran across a Chinese website advertising counterfeit name-brand packaging. I had a cousin in Customs and Immigration who clued me in to how bad counterfeiting is in the U.S. market.
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Actual operating spray pattern for green IW-031 Marelli injectors.
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While I'm this far apart and waiting, I'll have my injectors cleaned and perhaps buy a new/rebuilt set for the shelf depending on price and time. I found these guys and an interesting table of injector data including our green IW-031.
https://www.injectorrx.com/fuel-injector-cleaning-and-flow-testing-service/fuel-injectors/fuel-injector-data/weber-fuel-injectors/-
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On 10/10/2022 at 7:36 PM, docc said:
Okay, wow! A rare, full, set of "EdgeGuards" made by our 2004-2013 member "stormsedge" . I run a full set and find them very well designed to keep the grit and spray off the shock, vulnerable shock eye, and the back of the gearbox (including the extremely important main electrical ground).
When stormsedge left the forum, he offered the molds and materials to anyone that would carry on, but there were no takers.
Erm.
Any contact information? I have a lot of scrap nylon I've been trying to find use for.-
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Some days, well, test your patience.
Just putting the bike back together after the 'incident'. Fairing bracket straightened, mirrors in house, paint finished.
Thanks to Curtis Harper for digging out an old 'Sport oil cooler someone deleted...(?)
Started the bike- it started hard and ran like crap. Funny, it was fine when I took it off the trailer and put it in the garage. I had noticed that the 'feel' had fallen off a bit during the SSR, but so minor I thought I was just being paranoid. So I took the tank off and dug into the electrics as a matter of course. The left plug cap had been broken- a Parts Unlimited spare, non-resistor. I replaced it with a new NGK 5k ohm unit. I saw the plug wire was solid core copper, so I tested everything to discover that the NGK plug cap on the right side was completely open-circuit, the resistor blown completely out. So it got replaced too. That evened things up, the bike ran equally poorly on both cylinders. Starting not easily, idle smooth but doesn't take throttle well and backfires/misfires. New plugs no help. Voltage at all points good... then there's that darn cam speed sensor. The one in the bike when I bought it was dead, and this one has something just short of 20k on it. But it runs, right? So I test, and find it's not open circuit; test more, and find inconsistent switching. Dangit.
Who has the sensor shims? I'm zero clearance which may have contributed to an early death, though the witness marks are very light.
For your entertainment, testing a hall effect 3-wire sensor.
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As of today, I still have about ten plates left.
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19 hours ago, LaGrasta said:
After reading this thread, I see now, it's not just me.
I'll attempt this front Zerk again this weekend, maybe helping myself by lifting the bike to allow the rear wheel to hang down a bit. If this doesn't allow me to get in there, I'll use this as an excuse to visit fellow forum member @Scud as he is just down the coast from me.
I can, with herculean effort, grease my front if I lift the bike. When I'm done I look like a bulldozer mechanic after a final drive rebuild in the field. It's far more humane to remove the wheel, and I get to clean all the bits you'd otherwise have on your arms and face.
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For what it's worth; My first year roadracing was 1987 on a Suzuki GSXR 750. I raced production, where no modifications beyond suspension were allowed (LOL) but a lot of guys rode the same bike in Superstock, where you could ditch the airbox and use a premium exhaust. Scott Russell showed up with a separate bike for each class; but the Superstock bike still had the airbox and stock exhaust. Since he was sponsored by Yoshimura iirc, I asked about it. His chief said the bike made more power with better delivery with the stock airbox minus filter and the stock muffler gutted than any other combination they'd found. I remember a couple years where the Yamaha FZR 1000 guys kept the stock headpipes and just put cans on the back.
Sometimes it's smoke and mirrors. I have Mistral cans on mine, because the PO put the stock mufflers back on and I wanted the noise but I'd be interested in a true side by side dyno comparison of stock vs modified vs cans only. Crossovers have been done.-
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1 hour ago, stewgnu said:
Docc’s point about the lever adjustment bears reiterating- I’d say take a bit of time to find the setting that gives you the smoothest action- my experience is that makes a surprising difference.
Funny how much that actually matters. Mine has adjustable levers, and if it didn't I'd find some.
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See #7 and 8. Don't forget a new sealing o-ring. Mine had a nice relief in the crank end of the spacer to fit an additional o-ring for insurance.
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As an addendum, After installing my gears I developed a front seal leak. I blamed it on the seal, but it turned out to be the seal between the spacer and crankshaft. There's an o-ring inside the spacer sitting in a groove that I didn't see- which was hardened and came out in pieces- and on my '97 there is also a tapered relief in the crank end which was perfect to fit another o-ring as insurance.
See # 7 & 8.
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Finally getting around to fixing.
The annoying alternator leak was my fault, not the front cover seal but my inattention to the spacer sleeve o-rings. The rear one was absent (there's a rear one, right? There is now) and the hidden one in the groove was hardened and came out in pieces. Meh.
The oil cooler mounting pins were torn from the cooler, and the mounting brackets bent. Apply hammer and JB weld, blast and paint to come.
The sidestand bracket snagged on the trailer slot rail hard enough to pull the 6mm screw out of the case, so for your enjoyment a 12mm Time-Sert was installed.
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I forget if this is your first Goose? If so, you may have Japanese wet clutch expectations. At best, Guzzi dry clutches have a short engagement and at worst are snatchy. My 'Sport takes a practiced hand to pull away smoothly at low rpm. My '89 Mille, even with the big smooth engine and flywheel, takes genuine concern or I'll stall it. The kid's '85 LeMans though, is butter-smooth with a wider engagement than either of the others. But none of them tolerate the carelessness of a good multi-plate wet clutch. They're more like driving a loaded tractor-trailer.
Also, if it's been stored, the friction surfaces may be a little rough from 'oxidation'. If so, they'll smooth out considerably with a little usage.-
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On my '97 5-speed, I had so much trouble getting to the nipple and modifying grease hose ends I just take the dang wheel out and grease the splines by hand while I'm at it. There's a hole in the swingarm above the zerk, but it's difficult access at best.
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On 11/2/2022 at 10:16 AM, mznyc said:
Replaced all relays to new Ormon,just cuz,....NO FUEL PUMP...,I'll pull relay block again and see if working it a bit brings the pump back to life as it did before.
Where do I check to see if volts are getting to relay block and pump.Just want to make sure volts are coming from ECU and then past relay to pump...
Thanks!
I had to disassemble the terminals from my relay board to tighten and DeOxit the terminals to eliminate the intermittent failures and ghosts. Resign yourself to the tedium and you'll be rewarded.
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Since my 'Sport has passed the 25 year mark, and with the real risks obviated by the wreck on the way home from the SSR, I've started acquiring spare parts that I otherwise would not have, even though my hope and expectation is that in 20 years they'll still be collecting dust on the shelf.
BTW the 1100 Sport facebook group just posted a Kentucky Carb Sport for sale, looking for venues and values. If I had the garage space I'd buy the whole thing.-
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On 10/7/2022 at 7:23 PM, footgoose said:
will V11 LeMans mirrors work? emgo makes replacements, but they likely made your cbr mirrors so.....
I think the bolt spacing is different.
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55 minutes ago, LaGrasta said:
After two successful bench cleanings and test, the injectors have now stopped working. The bike starts and runs as long as I'm forcing fuel in to the cylinders, so I again removed the injectors and found them not working any longer. Maybe I burned them out while bench testing. I did take precautions to not activate them for more than a moment, but I guess I failed.
So with this, I ordered two new ones from AliExpress. Although I'm mystified as to what happened, I am excited to receive the new ones with hopes of an install, a start-up, and a test ride!
At the urging of my OEM parts only brother-in-law, I plan to have the original injectors refurbished and shelved, just in case.
I don't think it's likely that both injectors failed at the same time. It's more probable that there's a failure in the injector circuit. You should test the injector signal with a noid light.
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I'm posting this here only because the forum will show that I take PayPal for the Roper slosh plates.
PayPal has changed their terms of service in a fashion I find unacceptable, so I've deleted my account and will no longer accept or make payments through them.
Cancel Culture and Social Credit Scoring is very real.
https://www.dailywire.com/news/new-paypal-policy-lets-company-pull-2500-from-users-accounts-if-they-promote-misinformation-
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The work begins...
in 24/7 V11
Posted
I trust you physically verified the frame VIN with the title VIN?