Pressureangle
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Posts posted by Pressureangle
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temperature sensor on my '97 1100 Sport-i. I think it's 'oil' temp but indicates general engine temp to the ECU.
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18 hours ago, radguzzi said:
Well. the main ground was not a tight as I would have expected AND the mating surface on the trans had Paint on it, black paint. I was so hopeful that the issue had been found.
No. Back to being Mr. Intermittent. At first attempt the familiar click happened, second try she started right up. THird time, click...
So :
1 / What am I bound to find or actually look for and test for in the ignition switch...?
2 / Is this an obvious candidate or the Startus Interruptus Fix Kit from MPH...?
Edit:
I guess to put a finer point on that second question.. Is there testing I can do to prove that any particular component(s) are faulty...?Thanks,
rad__
A simple test is to connect a 12v test lamp in series between the solenoid power wire and ground. If it lights every time, look to the starter/solenoid. If it doesn't, look to relay/connectors/wire rubs.
When you say 'click' do you mean the underseat relay, or do you mean the starter solenoid? If the solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't turn that's a certainty of trouble in the starter itself.-
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I use Jet-Lube open gear lube. There are many similar products for open gears and cable applications that are appropriate. Most are available in grease gun tubes.
https://www.jetlube.com/product/og-h-high-performance-open-gear-lubricant -
My warning lamp begins dim, then over the course of 5-15 miles goes on and off with brake usage, then stays on.
Unfortunately it stays lit at 1/2 tank.
Since I have the tiny tank, that's about 100 miles. Worth mentioning here that since my Joe's cam gears and new plug caps I'm pushing 50mpg.
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Thought I posted to this thread- oopsie.
I have a new spare on the shelf and an entire shaft assembly as well. One of these days I'm going to get up to Orlando with it and get a quote on having CV shafts made.-
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I did a lot of homework to find these. I tracked the manufacturer to Italy, but I could never find anyone in Italy who will ship to the U.S.- it seems to be an Italian tradition not to.
The important thing here is to know that there are other units out there that have the correct measure on the box- but they are beyond junk. The only other vehicle I've ever found this size on are some Russian manufactured 4x4 ATV. I ordered some from China and when they came they looked like they were hand-hammered from poor iron ore by an upland Pakistani with two hard stones. I never found *any* confident source for the genuine Concordia units other than the Montreal distributor- I'm sure they can be had in Europe, but I couldn't find any path to order them simply- thus the phone call to Montreal.-
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13 hours ago, guzziart said:
I added headlight relays to both my '87 Lemans & '03 Lemans primarily to reduce voltage drop and improve hbar switch longevity. More recently I added H4 LED's to those bikes to reduce charging system load and improve daytime conspicuity. I'm reluctant to ride before sunrise or after sunset anymore but was caught once last Fall after sunset on the '87 with the new LED H4 and was please with the performance. Although I have no idea of how long the bulb will last ...amazon $17. So, I guess we'll see.
This comment actually brings something to light (I wish I'd thought that pun) that I hadn't considered; The editorial I linked to says, without saying, that an inappropriate lamp makes ineffective use of the reflector and that prevents the light 'getting where it's needed'. BUT. What if I never ride at night? What if I ride at night only in the city, or only below 45mph? I might make the argument that having more wasted light, or glare to oncoming traffic, is actually safer under these conditions.
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I ran across something I've known for a decade, figured I'd present it for those who haven't seen it. I picked this thread at random as an LED lighting thread.
I installed an LED in my '74 Aermacchi and it's enormously better than the stock sealed beam- or the more modern high output H4. But it was also very expensive. I chose it because I have only 140 watts of charging system to work with.
I improved the light on my 1100 Sport by cleaning the inside of the lens; my '85 LeMans was *hugely* improved by adding a separate battery circuit and 30a relay to the H4. I haven't yet relayed the 'Sport, but I expect the same level of improvement. I don't LED.
https://danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html -
3 hours ago, audiomick said:
That can be derived from the number, can't it?
Or did you mean something else?
Yes of course the specs are easy to know, but I meant that nobody has said they either checked it (but docc's wheel off checklist) or verified that it was tight to spec. ...aaaand you may ask if I applied a torque wrench to my own. I have not. But I have given it the ol' grunt test from time to time.
This particular mechanism of failure is pretty universal in any device that has connecting rods or stay arms with a captive bushing.-
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I'm hesitant to jump in here but...
This bolt's job is not to hold your rod in shear. This bolt's job is to clamp the frame tabs onto the bushing spacer hard enough that it doesn't move at all, and the bolt should never be put in a meaningful shear state. Nobody has mentioned the torque spec for this bolt...
Secondarily, bolt hardness and tensile strength are not *necessarily* correlated with shear strength. Toughness is (which nobody quantifies on a bolt, it's a characteristic of the material of the bolt) If the bolt doesn't clamp sufficiently, and is tough enough that it never shears, you'll eventually end up with egg-shaped holes in the frame tabs as the weakest link wears. All that said, a harder bolt with higher tensile strength is less subject to relaxing over time and allowing the spacer to bang it every time you roll on/off the throttle.
Meh.-
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12 hours ago, al_roethlisberger said:
Other than cost (paper is about $5, metal core is about $13), why wouldn't two of the better metal core gaskets be a better choice to sandwich the Roper plate between?
Is there some concern or drawback to using two of the metal core gaskets?
One can never have too much insurance. The only concern is cost, and this is not a place I'd save money. I don't have metal core gaskets in mine, but I will if the sump ever comes off again.
I recommend replacing the stock sump bolts with 5mm longer ones, to be sure you have full thread engagement. Nobody wants stripped sump threads.-
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docc, do you need an engraved plate for your wall? I can probably make that happen before September.
[docc edit/reply: Absolutely, @Pressureangle! I am all about supporting , and archiving, the community efforts. Just don't let it be a burden to perform that just for me.] (Odd way to reply, I know, but meant to avoid drifting @Guzzi-in-Vancouver's important thread.)
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You said you disconnected the sidestand switch. Was it left simply disconnected, or was a bypass connection added?
If it works without the switch but fails with the switch in place that points to a bad switch. My '97 has no sidestand switch but even back in the 1980s when I was racing Japanese bikes, everyone removed the sidestands, but the remaining switches put a lot of guys on the side of the track so we eliminated them always.
I haven't studied the circuit diagram so maybe I'm missing something but the switch itself is suspect.-
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5 hours ago, docc said:
The reason I brought up guzzidiag is to verify the idle. I have seen V11 300-500 rpm low relative to the tachometer reading. No big deal riding along, but at idle that means an indicated 1050 could be 750 (no good for charging), or even lower.
@Pressureangle, it seems you have already noted your tach error somehow?
I did, and it's accurate but for the needle wiggle. I do have a brand-new (2 years now) and *very* expensive NOS Daytona tach installed.
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Remind me to tell the story of a friend, a Kawasaki 500 triple, and being able to run on two cylinders...
(Spine Raid content)-
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11 minutes ago, guzziart said:
Were/are all the Roper plates engraved? ....just curious, it's a nice touch! I have one in my Lemans that was installed by the original owner, I haven't ever taken a close look at it.
They are not. We did a few to start, but the stainless material and our engraving machine didn't like each other very much. To send them for laser engraving would have added to the cost.
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38 minutes ago, mikev said:
He taught me how to fix a lawn mower engine when I was 10, had me confirm there was spark by having me hold the spark plug wire while he pulled the cord.
What is it about that generation...of Germans? My Grandfather taught me in precisely that way. He was a WWI AAC mechanic. His 'right hand man' was a former POW Luftwaffe mechanic. Our family comes primarily from Frankfurt and Gdansk, though both in the 1800s. Learning was always interactive with them.
One Great-Uncle drove a heavy truck through WWII, another was tail gunner in a B-17 and after surviving 10 missions with a dozen kills, they brought him to Pensacola to be a gunnery instructor.
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I had a look at the part, it's certainly something we could make. We're in expansion mode right now and alternating between 'buried' and 'catching up'. I haven't even been able to get the plastic balance rod knobs made yet.
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12 hours ago, audiomick said:
or, if it wont,
do you have a similar Program to read out your ECU?
MyECU uses an Android app and bluetooth dongle to tune. It's a fundamentally simple system with complete ownership of the program. The only complaint I can make is that I need reading glasses and a magnifying glass to make adjustments to a small map area as the numbers are tiny. I believe you can export the .bin files into TunerPro, but I've not done it.
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51 minutes ago, docc said:
Can you get a connection on guzzidiag to verify the actual idle speed, or is that ECU too early? What is you idle speed on the tachometer?
Guzzidiag? What's that do?
I have a Jeffries MyECU. Yes, my idle speed on the tach is within ~50rpm of actual at idle. I keep it to 1150-ish.-
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3 hours ago, docc said:
Are there indications to simply replace with an OEM regulator? Does the 1100 Sport have same vulnerable yellow output wires that are prone to breaking off at her stator?
Yes, the wires are yellow and I'd not lean on them too hard. When I did the cam gear set, I had it all off for a thorough inspection. Subsequently the voltage started varying so I verified the entire charging system; I found the connector for one of the yellow wires to have some corrosion, so remade everything. It charges better than it ever has, always between 14.4 and 14.8 at speed and goes over 13.0 by 1500rpm. It's just weak at idle. I do have an aftermarket fuel pump, perhaps it draws more than the stock pump did.
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14 hours ago, Tomchri said:
No engine heat problem, to far away. Smells more like a Shindengen fix
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Cheers Tom.
I actually bought a Shindengen kit, but there is no convenient location. If I install it, I'll have to spend a lot more time studying the problem.
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15 hours ago, MartyNZ said:
It would be interesting to know if the heat comes from internal to the relay, or just from the engine. If engine heat is the cause of your problem, then an added baffle and reflective panel may be simpler to fit than a fan.
I'm not familiar with the 1100 Sport, but is it possible that a cooling air path past the relays is blocked by extra gear under the seat?
Something like a pack of spare relays?
Have you considered vapor lock? I fixed a similar problem on my external pump V11 by adding reflective insulation on the pump and filter.
Yes, I considered much; the symptoms were very similar to losing a cam position sensor. But replacing the relay brought it instantly back to normal. I saved the old relay, and I'll be decapitating it to see what it looks like inside. There isn't much room for anything under the rear seat, just a small compartment behind the battery and in front of the taillamp.
Broken Torque Rod Bolt
in Technical Topics
Posted
I have the problem of South Florida- heat cycles, intense sun, humidity and rain. I've taken to using aerosol Cosmoline on everything that needs preservation without lubrication.
https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/cosmoline-rp-342-heavy-spray-military-grade-rust-preventive/