Pressureangle
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Posts posted by Pressureangle
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Took the rear wheel off, to follow the front to the Powdercoater.
Had a look at the brakes, the calipers are so dingy I can't stand it, and don't seem to want to come clean.
Anybody got an easy answer? Next stop here is disassembly and hot TSP. If that doesn't work, I may just replace them with new rather than rebuild.
Now that the rebuild door has been opened, who has parts? I think my master cylinder bypasses a little bit, inconsistent/lumpy action so I want to rebuild everything, or just replace it. My '97 has the black(ish) controls and gold calipers, and a cable clutch so it's not easy to switch the levers to something else.
I'm tired and a little lazy, so I want someone to serve up answers on a platter. Heck, I couldn't even find confirmation that the master is 16mm, nor rebuild kits. I'd like to have it all in hand before tossing parts all over the bench. -
15 hours ago, docc said:
I get it that the gears might be "overkill." Yet, they are not that much more money than addressing my aged cam timing chain/tensioner with an elegant and enthusiast derived solution. I tend to support these efforts whole-heartedly.
The query Joe brings up appears to be about changes to the draining of the timing chest between the earlier round fin/barrel motors and the later square fin/ cylinder motors. I know nothing about this.
If I read his correspondence correctly, the earlier BigBlocks drained the oil from the timing chest at a lower level and the later (square fin) motors trapped more oil in the chest? He looks to be inquiring if this greater "sumping" in the timing chest manifests in more "sludge" trapped there.
I recall a report of sludge in the bottom of a V11 timing chest.
Having absolutely no idea when the original factory gears were swapped for chain, I'd suggest that the oil level was raised to add lubrication to the chain that the gears didn't need. Consider, in 3 gears there are only 2 points of contact. In a chain, there are... a LOT. Both within the chain and upon the sprockets.
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1 hour ago, docc said:
The SPOrT 1100 and your 1100 Sport-i have the same 4.5” rear as the early V11 Sport (1999-2001) and 2001 Rosso Mandello. These were delivered with 170 tires, yet many of us prefer a 160.
Later V11 “LongFrames”, 2002-2005, came with 5.5” and a 180. Similarly, many find a 170 better suited.
All V11 run 17” front and rear. I seem to recall the earlier (pre-V11) 1100 Sports differ front to rear?
17" on both ends, on mine.
Got the forks back today, got the bearings adjusted and the top clamp all set.
Now all I gotta do is take the top clamp back off and put the handlebars on.
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15 hours ago, po18guy said:
I think that 5.5"/180 may be a little too much tire for an ancient frame and geometry, but I'll know after the next set. In thinking about it, what Aprilia did with the V11 amounts to a "restomod."
I think the Sport's rear rim is a little narrower than a V11's? I have 160 on the rear, not much room on the driveshaft side and no indication I've ever put the last 3/4" of rubber to the tarmac, so a larger tire is not considered.
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57 minutes ago, footgoose said:
The black is just not hitting me in the picture like it did in my mind. Nice, but now I'm thinking about back to gray, but shiny instead of dull. Meh
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I've found that Dunlop has the only U.S. motorcycle tire manufacturing facility, if owned by Sumitomo. So given the state of affairs in the world and my choice between sending cash to Cooper stockholders or Dunlop employees, I'll eat my words and support the workers in Tonawanda.
Not, of course, that I'm making any sacrifice with regards to the tires. Except my 30-year-old promise never to own Dunlops. I suppose the people responsible for that promise are long since retired or otherwise uninvolved. I'll chalk this up to growth, and to having read 20 reviews over time and distance and finding zero negative feedback.
So, Black and Dunlop it is.
Gee this was a short thread, should I go back and add oil to the title?-
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Dunlop makes great tires.
That said, I'd pay extra to run an other brand.-
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I searched 'Tires' in thread titles only, and was surprised to find nothing newer than 2017 so I figured it's time for an update.
I have the front end off the Sport, and the front wheel is absolutely shameful. I'm having it refinished, and I'll get to the rear when the front's back on.
Let's have opinions on whether to keep the wheels battleship gray, or have them made black; the bike is yellow.
So to the tires, I had Bridgestone T30s (?) a couple years ago. Solid tires, 7500 miles and wore them near bare front and rear without ever slipping.
However the front never had good feedback, and tight hard corners were acts of faith. To be fair, in 80mph+ sweepers they were rock-steady.
The rear was just invisible and excellent, with a large circumference for the size.
I swapped on a set of Pirelli Angel GTII for the SoCal twisties- the front had great feedback, razor sharp handling in the tight stuff, but just a bit nervous on the highway and fast sweepers. The rear, though the same numeric size, was of significantly smaller circumference- enough to leave me 6 miles short of the fuel exit in New Mexico. Now, these Pirellis will be 4 years old at the 2022 spine raid, the rear has squared off in the center, and I'm having the wheels off anyway; so it doesn't make much sense to put them back on.
Looking around at the choices, I discovered that Avon is owned by Cooper, which is American (though the tires are made in the UK) and their 3D SuperSport tires have good wet-road reports, as well as overall happy sounding owners. Mileage isn't really a consideration anymore as I'm 12 hours from any roads with curves so I don't ride much at home.
Thoughts, opinions, or experiences? -
6 hours ago, arveno said:
Is this some new “ trend” ?
posting something for sale without an actual price ?
I am too old school for this new thing.
Ohh well.
No. It's the reluctance to deal with people disparaging the seller because 'his price is unrealistic' and 'Ah hain't never see'd one sell that high, bought one fifteen years ago for less than half that'.
If you can't make an offer, you can't be expected to pay the asked price. People aren't what they were 20 years ago, especially not online.-
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2 hours ago, arveno said:
Nice bike , I didn’t see the asking price ?
There is no asking price, only offers to hear.
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So there's an official WP service center about 20 minutes from home- the local KTM/Husqvarna/GasGas dealer. I was going to call, but drove over instead; asked 'hey can you do these old WP forks?' he says, 'sure, what are they from? Bring them in' So I bring them in to the counter, he looks weirdly at them and asks again what they're from. I tell him, '97 Moto Guzzi. He says, 'you won't believe this but I have forks and shock apart on the bench in back from a '97 Moto Guzzi.'
So is there a forum member from Miami who brought their stuff up to Stuart?
$125 plus parts for the forks, $150 plus parts for the shock (later) He asks, 'You want these cleaned up? We can vapor blast the feet and they'll look like new' Well, surely. Glad I didn't fool with them on my own, anyway.
...and while waiting, the kid fell for and bought a Svartpilen 401 lol
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4 hours ago, po18guy said:
Just musing here, but If the headstock bores are concentric, you "could" have the OD of the races plated so as to match them more closely to the headstock.
As I said, just musing.
Quite out-of-round. Still I could spray-weld the race OD and make it round with the hammer. But that's no more a true fix than the loctite, and a lot more work and cost.
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FWIW, the fork trees are something like ~45mm offset, and equal top & bottom. Give me a mm or so for accuracy.
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8 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
I would expect some variation due to the distortion created by frame welding but yours seems to have more than I've experienced of would expect. Has it ever had a front end crash? I'd just use some Loctite bearing mount and if you ever need to remove them then you can just run a bead of arc weld around them on the inner face and they'll fall out even with the loctite.
Ciao
There's no evidence of a crash, I've measured the alignment best possible with straights and levels and it all appears to be square. It tracks perfectly, not as if it's had it's rake reduced. Without any specific reason, I'll attribute it to Italian tolerances; the major diameter of the bottom race bore is *not* along the frame axis.
As you said, I'll take up what space I can with some shimming, and add bearing mount to perfectly clean surfaces.
With the clunk identified and corrected, and the brakes working properly, perhaps I can keep up with Docc at the Spine Raid.
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3 minutes ago, Scud said:
Sew... you have the races out and the bores in the frame are slightly bigger than the outside diameter of the races? And possibly oblong?
Sorry I don't have and advice to contribute, but I'm curious to see how this can be addressed.
In a perfect world, I'd completely disassemble the frame, clean it, spray weld the bores and resize them in the machine shop.
In this world, I've put ~15k miles on it as it is and I'm not ready for a complete restoration yet. So the options are *all* sorta backyard shadetree answers.
I'll clean it up and play around with the bearing races and feeler gauges, to see how much clearance I have in what areas; then I'll average out the clearance, use feeler gauge blades to bring the size back to a reasonable tight fit, put everything back together with a hard bearing bore adhesive loctite product and run with it until the day comes when it gets ripped to the last fastener.
I'll take the forks to the local KTM/WP center and have them give a look, but these forks may be older than their technicians...nothing wrong with them really so if they can't or the price is too high, I'll renew the fork oil and clean them up myself. The springs as is are good for my weight, and they don't leak so...meh.
On to the brake caliper rebuild.-
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Sew...
Today the front end came apart, and I found what I suspected but didn't want- the steering head bearings are 52mm, and the holes in the frame are between 52.20 and 52.65mm. This thing's had a clunk under braking since I bought it that I couldn't reproduce by hand or rocking, only shows under braking.
I guess I'll clean it up and see if I can drive it all back together with some shim stock or a speedi-sleeve, or I'll have to use heavy loctite bearing retainer and deal with the results.
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Yes, it's a Tonti frame and handles just like the LeMans but easy around town. I didn't measure the valves, but I would call them 'Medium' compared to the LM heads. It's actually a good fun bike, really nice for day rides to the flea and cafe. I just have too many other projects to give this one what it needs cosmetically, and somebody has to sleep outside for space in the garage.
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My 1989 Mille GT.
I bought it on a whim as a spare for visiting friends, who never appeared.
Fresh tune-up, top end disassembled and inspected-rings, seats and guides in great shape.
New spring cam chain tensioner
New points & condensers
New Odyssey
Carbs completely cleaned and reconditioned, synced properly
All fluids serviced with premium synthetic, including forks
Charging system works great
Integrated brakes work great, new EBC or Brembo pads (don't recall)
Instrument cluster replaced with NOS, not disintegrated
Mistral mufflers, stock also
Spoke wheels, have a set of Red LM III wheels & Michelins to go with if the price is right
Custom touring seat
Needs a proper detailing, not as pretty as it could be. Looks like every other 5 owner 'Guzzi with 3 different keys.
Rides great, needs nothing. I just don't use it and need the garage space.
Stuart, Florida. I can facilitate shipping, or you can ride it home.
Best offer, won't bother with eBay. I know I won't get close to my cost, but please don't insult me. Ask for more pictures if you like.
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1989 Mille GT
Details on WG
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=114357.0 -
14 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
Yes they look good and almost certainly what I'll be using. Someone here has fitted a set a few years ago, Pressureangle I think. Only for 01 onwards bikes though. If you want to fit them to the earlier 99-00 bikes you'd need to remove the calliper/axle mounts and machine them internally in the base I think as they don't have a flat base for the cartridge to seat on. So in effect they fit any model V11 Sport Non damper rod forks.
Ciao
Wasn't me, I put new dampers in the '85 LM but I'm only now ashamedly addressing the front end of the Sport, which has a number of troubles I've never mentioned but would probably shock anyone else riding it. Before the Spine Raid it'll get fork rebuild, steering head rebuild, brake caliper rebuild and a bit of clean-and-refinish.
Who's got the WP service book for the forks?-
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I had an intermittent fuel problem recently, always beginning with the fuel pump being 'noisy' or 'buzzy'. The short story is, I had a high resistance connection somewhere that caused the fuel pump relay to drop out when everything got warm- then as soon as it dropped the pump load, the voltage went back up and reconnected the relay. Rinse and repeat, at high frequency. A simple but thorough cleaning and maintenance of all the relays and connections ended it. The pump went silent again.
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16 hours ago, nobleswood said:
I attended Keith Code's Superbike school twice, in 1985 and 1986. Though it was a long time ago and their methods have probably evolved, I highly recommend it; any tracktime school is probably money well spent. You will learn techniques and science you can't really apply elsewhere, and you will expand your limitations beyond your efforts on the street- meaning that you'll not make sophomore mistakes that crash you when it's avoidable. I watch crash videos a lot, and it's my studied opinion that 90% of all street crashes are totally and easily avoidable. I also watch travel videos, and adventure riders suffer from the same lack of pertinent practice offroad, leading to unnecessary damage, injury, and inconvenience easily avoidable.
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22 hours ago, p6x said:
I took a quick look this morning; some of the pre-owned leather jackets I looked at were more expensive than a new Shangri-La Café Racer sold new by a shop here in Houston...
I will look more, but prices don't seem realistic and I don't haggle.
Is the brand Aero Cafe Racer Black any good? I thought a used leather jacket would be around $400;
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-aero-cafe-racer-black-custom-collar.107112/
A fun anecdote;
I was the parts manager at H-D Miami in the '90s.
While moving into our new building, I discovered an old box of leather jackets. H-D had a program in the '70s where you could trade in your old jacket for 1/2 off a new one, or somesuch; nobody had ever returned the old jackets to the factory.
I sold those jackets at a 20% premium over the new jackets, and sold them all. Most were $500+.
You just can't buy the credibility of age very often. I laughed under my breath as these customers wore the jackets as if they'd been riding for 30 years and teased their buddies about their shiny new leather.
So the high price on the fedora lounge items doesn't surprise me.-
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What did you do to your V11 today?
in 24/7 V11
Posted
Well that pretty much sells it. Depending on the price of the rebuild kits plus shipping against new, it doesn't seem likely- but I probably should have an ultrasonic cleaner anyway.
I didn't find a black 16mm master cylinder, but I did see Greg Field say that 15mm worked fine. Prolly new there too, but I can't say that these didn't get their age and miles fairly.
Not today's decision, fortunately.