Pressureangle
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Posts posted by Pressureangle
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8 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:
With a tonewheel and sensor, scatter apparently becomes a much larger problem, possibly due to simple ECU confusion.
...and I entirely missed the part about the ignition sensing cam position, you cannot bring the ignition timing back where it belongs in any case. Ignition retards with the cam and the chain stretch. So now I am 100% pro-gear on injected motors.
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1 minute ago, Lucky Phil said:
Here's an interesting image of a 1 year old blade style tensioner failure. Nasty collateral.
Ciao
I sort of wish I hadn't seen that.
I know you're a huge fan of gears, and so am I. Now even moreso.
How did that bit get past the screen into the pump? -
5 hours ago, MartyNZ said:
This is very interesting for me. I know my timing chain is sloppy; when I point a timing light into the little inspection hole to see the flywheel mark, I can see the mark jiggling up and down. Since I have to fix this sometime, I have to ask whether you think a new chain and tensioner would achieve the same improvement as a gear set? I expect that it would be a lot cheaper.
I built a '85 LM1000 a few years ago, using a Web 86b cam and conical beehive valve springs with about 110# seat pressure and ~280# (?) over the nose of the cam. I used a Valtec tensioner in that, and it clocks over at 1000 rpm just fine, in fact the timing shows no fluctuation and I have to say I have no inclination to change it to gears. Just yesterday I started and timed my '89 Mille GT after having replaced the stock manual tensioner with a Valtec, again although with all stock valve gear and cam the timing is extremely steady. By appearances, the good tensioner does everything you need to cure the idle glitches.
That said;
This Mille GT appears to have been a fairly well-loved and well-kept bike most of it's life, if not perfectly maintained. The cam chain had about 3/8" slack on the manual adjuster, and contributed to crap idle and valve noise to the point I looked for a broken piston skirt. Now it ticks at 700rpm if I want it to. Here's the rub-the distributor bolts were stiff enough to make me think it's not been moved since the factory timed it, and after installing the tensioner I moved the timing somewhere between 5º and 10º to bring it up. That's a huge amount, and assuming it was ever where it belonged means these chains stretch a lot more than I would expect. Even if you bring the ignition timing back, the cam timing remains retarded to whatever extent the chain is stretched. On an engine with a 'big' cam (any of these Guzzi 'sporting' models) the idle quality and low-speed drivability hangs precariously on that timing to the extent that 4º is a very significant change. So you see there are two primary issues to consider, spark scatter and spark/cam timing. With a tonewheel and sensor, scatter apparently becomes a much larger problem, possibly due to simple ECU confusion.
D'oh. I do love a succinct answer, which this is not.-
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I've installed one in my Sport-i of course, even though it's acknowledged that 5-speeds don't have the low gear acceleration enough to create a problem. I never saw my oil lamp flicker; but hey, it's a known issue with this engine configuration, and they're cheap insurance. What if one lives on a steep grade? Besides, all the cool kids have them.
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3 minutes ago, p6x said:
I am less categorical in what I do. Yes, the actual benefits appear to be small. But I like to check my air pressure often, and I always fill up at Costco.
So, why not check my tire pressure there? I am not even certain on the N2 percent, because I never did a full inflation, just top ups.
To me, it is more a practical thing than any kind of heap. Besides, if you are on the road and away from Costco, N2 options are restricted.
If it costs nothing, it hurts nothing.
It was dealership gravy in the RV industry, and I got rather disenchanted with the unethical propaganda they used to sell it. They charged something like $25/tire 15 years ago. If it's free and convenient, I'd use it myself. There is no downside.-
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Nitrogen has only two places in my world; 70% in the air I breathe, and 100% in tires where hot pressure is critical and blowouts contribute to fire safety.
Nitrogen was a real fad for a while, but when you realize that if you let all the air out of your tires, and re-inflate with 100% nitrogen (can you verify that it's 100% nitrogen?) you still have all the regular atmospheric air in the tire left over. So you go from 70% nitrogen to 90% nitrogen. Even the guys who use it for tire pressure control use pressure caps when it's legal.-
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1 hour ago, docc said:
More like "by the gram." Notice how the vintage triple beam balances come out . . .
*strictly* for balancing engine components. and small electrical devices. and such.
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54 minutes ago, docc said:
+1 on the 20.0 grams with my analog method. For comparison, my original Seimans are 15.1 grams. [ Note that "sealed" relays and those with wider coil contact blades add weight without adding capacity.]
I have edited the "Answer" post to direct buyers to ebay. Please continue to post reliable, available sources of these desirable components.
Also, it occurred to me that @Pressureangle is using these in an 1997 1100 Sport-i. I am not sure the sequence or number of relays on that model. Are there still five relays in a row?
Good grief, made me climb the ladder and wake up ol' 3-31 and remind myself how old I am.
I have only 4 relays.
Weights;
Siemens original 15.1g
GEI Chinese, 18.9g
Omron USA, 20.1g
The Omrons aren't noticeably heavier than what's in the bike, I'd been fondling my Seimens spares.
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So I received my Omron relays today from eBay. All I can say is that the quality of the housing is notable better than some others, and that they literally weigh twice as much as the non-Omron relays I have in the bike. Yikes...they may actually be what we hope them to be.
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1 minute ago, Lucky Phil said:
You could replace the big and bulky rear drive torque arm with an aftermarket unit with rod end fittings which would give you a lot more room to play with the vent solutions. Your oil deflector of some sort seems like a good idea.
Ciao
I keep thinking that myself, but given the bashing of parts by the straight cut transmission, I like the idea of the bit of cushion provided. Getting a hose that fits and stays on is a challenge, to be sure.
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Oh, and I have to say that the Caruso gears have made a *Yuge* difference in top end running as well as bottom. I have to ask myself if I'm imagining things. In the past, it seemed to take a very long time to get where it would go, indicated about 130. Although I've opened the airbox top since my last WOT speed adventure, 100 came and went so fast at part throttle it's like I sprouted an extra cylinder. We may check that Saturday.
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11 minutes ago, docc said:
That looks like an awesome result! And you feel that it is still actually "venting?"
Yes, it's a tiny hole but it only has to pass air as fast as the rear end can heat it. I'll add the hose by Saturday, to keep track of any oil that gets out, keep water out, and hopefully keep the heat cycles from drawing in any meaningful amount of our summer humidity.
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Docc, I don't know about the V11 vent system. The 'Sport rear takes 250cc, I used Lucas 80/140 'super duper high performance' gear oil, with about a tablespoon of Jet-Lube open gear and cable grease, which appears to be pure Moly with enough grease to make it stick to stuff-I use that on the spliney stuff.
So, after ~20 miles of "3 miles in the middle was 80-100mph" The housing temp was 116*F after 5-6 miles home @ 35mph.
But yay, there is no trace of oil at the tip of the bleeder, I didn't even put a hose over it so I could be certain. Saturday I'll go beat it up where I can hold 70-100 for 1-15 miles, and take the temp gun with me.
I know y'all have recorded drive temps, what's the norm? 116*F isn't even worth talking about in automotive axles.
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26 minutes ago, docc said:
This, I have done too many times to count . . .
("Back in the day" . . .)
Yeah, but this time the *skirt* is brass.
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When I put the bike together a few years ago for my long trip, I went around looking for a reason for, and solution to, gear lube being forced out of the rear drive seal and onto the rim. I ended up drilling a hole in the filler plug and pressing a grease zerk with ball removed into the hole, and running 3-4 feet of tubing up the swingarm and along the frame, exiting by the rear turn signal. In the main it was ok, but at high speeds and unknown distances it still emptied about half the gear oil out of the box over my 10k mile trip. Whilst overlooking my deficits for the 2021 South'n Spine Raid, the tubing disintegrated. So I went looking again. I replaced the zerk with a brake bleeder, tapped and screwed in. The single hole in the bleeder faced forward, away from the flow of lube inside. Way better than the zerk, but still came home after 50 miles with some drool on the wheel, too much to tolerate. So here's my plan. I looked online at axle vents etc, and found one from a jeep with a plastic skirt under it, and a conical spring inside to 'filter' and decant oil back to the axle. I couldn't make it fit under the drive stay rod... but it did give an idea. I stole the spring out of it, went looking for a skirt and found that a brass PEX adapter was a very nice, very tight press into the underside of the fill plug. I wound the spring into the hole and pressed the adapter in with the bench vice, hopefully protecting the bleeder hole from any direct oil splash. Now, on to the testing.
Yes, I've considered that it may shake loose. No, I'm confident that it can't-it's tight but not so tight to worry about cracking or splitting while pressing it.
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3 minutes ago, p6x said:
Where has all the fantasy gone nowadays? we used to get married four hours after having met a lady hanging around the pool in Vegas... we used to take risks back in the days; or was it only me?
The risk, it would seem, is in owning the Italian motorcycle instead of the German one.
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I'd (no I wouldn't myself, actually) chuck it up into my cordless drill and spend a little time smoothing it out, then zinc primer it and final coat with black gloss Rustoleum. Let it dry well in the sun, or oven if you have no sun. It'll be so hard you'll think it's powder coated.
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...on the other hand, you could stick the engine in a Yamaha golf cart and be the envy of your neighborhood, and the bane of the security guard.
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1 minute ago, fotoguzzi said:
Run, don't walk away.. unless you have endless time and even more money I see it as a complete waste of your time. Why would you want to spend hours working on that heap when you have a Lemans to ride?
but yeah $3-400 sounds reasonable.
I was just composing my post saying the same thing. You'll be in it for $2500 just to get it roadworthy. If it was complete with title, $500.
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23 minutes ago, po18guy said:
Pretty easy to make something that goes after only the soft targets. So, Stoddard solvent and a parts brush?
Yeah, I think from now on I'm just going to use MEK and Acetone after I investigate their tolerance by viton. It's not as convenient but I know it works. I'll use Gumout or CRC for places I have to spray.
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Asked NAPA for a case of carb cleaner, they came back with about 8 cans of 'Mac's' carb cleaner. Who cares, right?
So I'm working on the '89 Mille GT. Had the sump off, tried to clean it with Mac's. No go- simply doesn't cut oil and light, if old, mung. Bleah.
Go to the carbs last night, been sitting some time so plenty of varnish. Put all the bits in a cup and make a puddle of Mac's. Doesn't touch the varnish or deposits. Bleah.
Then, suddenly, right before my eyes, I watch the o-rings and inlet valve tips expand and disintegrate. Oh, happy day- carb cleaner that doesn't clean anything and destroys carburetor parts in less than 30 seconds. Inlet valve assemblies are $25 each.
Just a 'beware'. Don't try to save a penny or a minute using this crap. I returned all of it, not that they cared at all.-
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3 hours ago, po18guy said:
There may be hope. From the listing, which is a little confusing, but he is selling lots of 5 for some reason (heh heh...)
Good eye, or I'm going senile. I guess I'll have to stock a few.
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12 hours ago, po18guy said:
It seems that Mopar uses these in a lot of Jeeps and some of their cars. Omron? Made in USA? 5 for less than $30? Hard to believe.
I'll go out on a limb and call this legitimate. I spent time on Omron's website, they do make these but you can only have them if you're an OEM automotive concern- probably at least a tier 1 supplier. So if I was that and could order them, I would, since they have a purchasing requirement but no apparent limitation on subsequent usage. They probably have a minimum order quantity of 500 or something.
Oh and West Bloomfield is in the heart of Mopar territory.
one last point, it's not 5/$30, it's *each*. bleah -
My 1100 Sport-i is '97. The only mod when I got it appears to be a FBF crossover pipe. With stock ECU and stock mufflers, it suffered from a relatively mild case of the 'idle stall and 3200rpm blues'. I installed a MyECU in place of the stock controller and tuned it over 10k+ miles to the point where the 3200rpm dip was tolerable and idle stalls were something short of maddening.
Very recently (<200 miles) I took out the stock timing chain and wimpy chain tensioner and installed a set of Joe Caruso's cam drive gears, because it 'sounded like' the cam chain was slapping around. And I like jewelry- I could have installed the aftermarket tensioner, which worked as well in my '85 LM1000; nobody was more surprised than I to discover that the idle issues and the 3200rpm dip are *completely gone*. The idle, which I'd probably spent 2 whole man-hours over the time I've owned it getting as good as it could be, suddenly became perfect, stable, 100-150rpm higher; After tuning the mixture and setting the speed, it now idles at 1100rpm and is so steady it's almost ridiculous. I attribute this all to the precision of the trigger wheel, and the inadequate stock chain tensioner creating a bit of confusion in the timing signal at idle and perhaps a resonance at 3200rpm.
So my recommendation, if the problem persists after all the obvious and desirable tune-up procedures, is to get rid of the stock timing chain tensioner and install the aftermarket one which is enormously stronger than stock- or if you have the extra gravy, a set of Caruso timing gears. I'd like to have someone else verify that my findings here are what they appear to be.-
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Roper Plate Fitment - Centauro
in Technical Topics
Posted
The signpost is a rusty Star Picket.