Pressureangle
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Posts posted by Pressureangle
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1 minute ago, docc said:
I’ve long been fond of saying the V11 has a charging system like a G-string. Adds excitement, but doesn’t like the cold...
Well, it's 78* and sunny here...Kinda like a stripper, though- looks great but can't ride it.
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I did some forum searching but didn't come up with enough information to satisfy my curiosity;
What is the stock '97 1100 Sport-i charging system?
What type regulator?
What do you see for charging voltage?
Has anyone sourced an adjustable regulator?
Curious. Went to start today, Lithium battery has apparently departed; never really had as much reserve as I'd have liked anyway. I'll probably go with Odyssey, but I did like the light weight under the seat. -
...All that said, after having a close look at https://www.briskusa.com/ , I wouldn't hesitate to try them if the price isn't ridiculous. They seem to cover all the bases.
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Here's a little spark plug science for you;
Nology plugs
I can attest to the fact that some engines really, really hate platinum or iridium plugs; GM 2.4TC, 1990's GM 5.7 TBI.
Every engine type and every ignition type has different requirements and peculiarities. I use NGK BPRs in my 'Guzzis.
There is rarely any magic in spark plugs; some engines hate some plugs, but as a rule if your engine isn't race-tuned, you'll never notice any difference.
Back in racing days I did find that in an 883 H-D sportster, dual-ground strap plugs gave a hint more power and covered up a bit of rich/lean during carb transitions. That could potentially help our dinosaurs, but I've not tested it.-
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On 1/23/2020 at 4:08 PM, docc said:
(Aw, nuts, Pressureangle's image does not display for me . . . .
)
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On 1/23/2020 at 2:40 AM, docc said:
Not sayin' any names, but the initials > Pressureangle < came up . . .
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'94 Chevy K2500 extended cab 4x4- 52,000 mile ex-fire department find
'68 Dodge Charger.-
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On 7/19/2019 at 6:46 AM, sp838 said:
This is something I'm very interested in. I have twin plugged heads on my bike, but haven't set it up yet. Biggest hurdle for me going forward with this is the prospect of having to change the ignition curve. I'm dreading having to manually edit the map. I have a table that was provided to me by a gentleman on this forum who went by the name "Motoguzznix". I will delve into this over the winter. If all else fails, I'll ditch the 15M ECU (which I consider to be the boil on Sophia Lauren's ass) and install a set Keihin flat slides and an ignition module from Eletronik-Sachse and be free of the whole mess that is this Magneti Marelli injection system.
Dual plugs have a pretty well known effect on any hemispherical engine. I would suggest that if you simply edit the entire curve above about 1500rpm by the same amount, you'll be fine. Depending on mods, -4 to -8 degrees is probably in the ballpark at WOT. For tuning by ear, use 87 octane, find your audible detonation point (probably about 2500-3000rpm) then back off 4º and run premium. If you have a steady-state dyno with exhaust gas analyzer available, you can get more specific. I'd be interested in any real data you discover along the way.
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Once upon a time I bought a lightened flywheel set for my '85 LM1000. It was well-machined and well-balanced.
There was little discussion and a bit of a brusque brush-off when I pointed out that my stock flywheel was much thicker than the received part. "No difference, been using them forever with zero issues". Now the clutch gets hot and creeps in traffic when the thinner plate warps from heat. It's almost as if Mother Goose knew there was some issue with harder riding and improved the part. C'est la Vie on me, I guess. Then after a couple hundred miles the painted on timing marks disappeared. Oh well.
Then there's another guy, who contributes endlessly to the knowledge of the community without asking anything in return, in contrast to the one who claims expertise but never says anything that someone isn't paying for.
The end-
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There are some long threads on riding gear for long tours; After reading a lot and wringing my hands, I did 10k miles and 8 weeks with an Aerostich Roadmaster suit, long sets of Underarmor, Thorlo socks and Gasolina boots. Aside from collecting a Patagonia thin hoody along the way, it was a perfect combination for credit card touring. I had one t-shirt and one pair of jeans, since I spent all my time riding.
I would, though it may be heresy, consider having the bike transported and flying in if I didn't have at least a week on either side of the SSR to make the round trip.-
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I made the trip from SSR 2019 to Port Angeles, WA last year. There is a lot of...something less than exhilarating...geography to cross between corners.
How much time do you have to spend? My first thought was to review the Members Map and see what route takes you near other members, may take a bit of the drudgery out of a couple days. Depending on what you're riding, your tolerance for speed risk and saddle sores, I'd say you might make better time on the secondary roads rather than interstate. I came up from Chattanooga to Little Rock to Shawnee OK, Liberal KS, Denver/Cheyenne/Yellowstone/Boseman MT. The only sufferage was western OK and Kansas in September, but though it wasn't exciting it was new and went pretty fast. Gas stops pushed the 1100 Sport's tank capacity to the limit.
It's a trip I wouldn't trade for anything, and I'll do again some day when I can spend a bit more time in the places I wished I could have.
<edit> oops ya 2018. Time flies.-
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I've been riding on public roads since 1979.
Although I have a couple friends who've been seriously injured by rear ending at lights, not once has it happened to me; I'll chalk that up to good fortune. I have, a couple times, been threatened by squealing tires as someone slid up behind me. Very bad feeling. One friend says he always kept his bike in gear, so we'll assume it didn't do him any good.
Most significantly here, is that *NONE* of those times would I have had any time to think about where I'd go if I dumped the clutch. I may have jumped out into a far worse situation, and for no reason at all since none of these events ended in contact.
I pop neutral and roll to the stop at low speed.-
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1 hour ago, Chuck said:
That Redline heavy is tenacious stuff. It'll be hard to get rid of. I quit using it when I couldn't get it all to drain out of the rear drive and over filled it a bit when I "drained and measured.."
OTOH mine spit out 100cc from the rear drive through my thought-through but untested rear drive vent on my 10k tour and came home none the worse for wear with ~150cc in it.
If it isn't broken down enough to drain out, it isn't broken down enough to want out, I figure. I've used about every high-end gear lube over the years, and never seen anything quite like the RedLine. I have to say though that I put ~35k miles on my LM1000 with Royal Purple gear oil in the drive and it also passed every test, including 5-10 miles of 90mph+ twice a day to work and back.-
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27 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
As important as it gets. You cant fully bench test it. You can check the continuity and coil resistance but sometimes they work cold and then break down with heat when the engine gets to operating temperature. Generally when they fail the engine wont start. Incorrect phonic wheel to sensor gap can cause erratic running.
Ciao
Yup.
Mine ran well cold, but as soon as it got warm started spitting, running erratically, eventually quitting altogether. Next mornings, cold, beautiful again.
I eventually ohmed the sensor on the bench with a heat gun, and it opened every time at about 230*F.-
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On 11/13/2019 at 3:23 AM, gstallons said:
Be sure you fill the gearbox before starting the bike . To be safe , add fluid through the glass sight plug after removing sight plug with a hex socket .
You can flush the clutch cavity as much as you want . I would use at lest one can of Brake-Kleen spraying into the clutch housing .
Hmmm . To be sure the installer adds the oil into the gearbox and NOWHERE else ?
Well...there is a better way to be certain you're adding it to the correct space. Owner's manual, YouTube, maybe somebody here has a relevant photo and can add an arrow?
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49 minutes ago, knumbnutz said:
Do we every reeeeally finish tuning our bikes?????
NOOOoooo...
I installed a Jeffries ECU in my 1100 Sport-i and tuned it well enough to take on a `10k tour last year, refined it through the first half, trimmed it the second half, and touched it up a little this year before the South'n Spine Raid. I think I've convinced myself it's close enough to work on the other projects now lol. -
Those tiny pushrods are so cute!
I'd make a bracelet out of them. -
As an tangential anecdote;
I play with classic cars, and have a good friend in the restoration business. Primarily he's concerned with Chrysler products of the 60s and 70s.
One of his regular customers asked if he'd return to service a pristine MG Midget that had been parked for a decade. He asked if I'd help, because I have some experience with English cars and bikes. After the typical fuel system service and fluid changes, it came to life quite easily, all under the criticism of my friend. "Go-cart" "Tiny motor" "Why would anyone bother?".
Needless to say, he drove it around for a full week, taking it everywhere including a car show. When I pressed him to admit it was a good time, of course he did; What we isolated as the true source of the fun was that you could drive the car about as hard as you cared to, without risking limb and license. Banging up through third gear with your foot on the floor and the top down is different but almost as good as blowing the tires up on a '70 440 'Cuda, and a lot less likely to attract points to your license.
Point being, I spent most of my life searching for performance improvements in everything I ever owned, only to discover that a great deal of it would have been better spent riding what was there instead of working on it.
A 'Guzzi is what it is. Trying to make it something else may be fun and satisfying, but if the actual research and development isn't a good time in itself, it isn't worth the loss of actual riding time. I ask myself, "How often am I actually at WOT?" Rarely. I do, however, take the time to fine tune what's there and I separate projects now so I can pursue what I feel like at the moment.
<shrug> Defining the ends to our means is important.-
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Re; high compression pistons.
The historic battle within hemispherical combustion chambers is always between compression and detonation. Firstly, in the U.S., the DOT mandates than anything sold for highway use operate on 87 octane fuel without destroying itself. So, if you're willing to use premium always (who doesn't, anyway?) there is a little room for increases.
Here's where things get messy.
Firstly, tuning an engine to take advantage in the difference between 87 and 93 octane is something only an expert with a dynomometer, or a very experienced butt and ears, can do meaningfully. Secondly, there really isn't that much difference anyway. If you're capable of such, you're also capable of tuning your intake and exhaust, fuel and timing as is to achieve 80% of the difference with such a mild compression increase.
Lastly, altitude and camshaft have huge effect on cylinder pressures, particularly at the medium RPM range where detonation is most prevalent.
Hemispherical combustion chambers are the most efficient design from the perspective of (2-valve) valve/flow size and efficiency. But they are the worst for detonation.
The most effective counter to detonation is turbulence during compression, which achieves 2 specific things; improves homogenization of the mixture which removes 'dead' or 'late' spots in the burn; and speeds completion of burn which removes unburned mixture from corners which overpressure and detonate.
Without enormous and expensive changes, there's little we can do with stock Guzzi castings to improve squish, which creates turbulence. What I did on my LM1000 though, was to carefully measure quench-the actual distance between the piston and head- to be certain it was optimized. The term 'quench' is used, because it's known that the fuel/air mix *cannot* ignite within a narrow margin of distance. That distance is somewhere between .050" and .025". It's typically recognized that the worst contained distance for detonation with gasoline is about .080".
You can measure your quench with a piece of soft solder through the spark plug hole, to discover to some degree where you are and if taking a little off your cylinders may have some benefit. IIRC I took about .015" off the LM, which raised the compression by about half a point.
That said, it has a Web 86b camshaft, which although has far more lift than the stock cam, also creates much more cylinder pressure in the low RPMs. The combination requires that I retard the timing a couple degrees from stock to kill any apparent detonation. Tuning is ongoing, currently.
I always read these back before posting, and I'm never sure they convey sufficiently the information. :/-
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41 minutes ago, gkaan said:
Oh no. I guess my clutch is screwed?
If you haven't run the engine it's fine. Just flush the clutch compartment out with mineral spirits. You can plug the drain hole with a little piece of wood or plastic, then add a quart of spirits, wobble around as much as you can for a minute and drain it. What little lube stays stuck will be absorbed in the dust and be covered by new dust.
Worst possible case is you find it's invaded the friction surfaces (shouldn't have, really, unless you pulled the clutch lever while the compartment was full) and you have to change the clutch, which is your only other option now anyway. Give it a shot.
BTW, the hole you're looking into is for timing the engine. There are flywheel marks to use with a timing light.-
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On 11/5/2019 at 7:29 PM, docc said:
I know the main, larger fastener is to be torqued to 75 NM and both the fasteners often get neglected. The V11 set-up, although very Rube Goldberg, is the easiest to use of the SpineFrame stands, but an Achille's Heal if the stand breaks the sump spacer.
Is this the same configuration as the 1100 Sport-i wide sump?
Thanks for that great shot, Docc.
My '97 Sport-i is wide sump and has the same basic design as this photo, BUT they've corrected a flaw. Mine, where the 6mm bolt passes through the bracket has a broached flat for the head, leaving a hard machined corner right in the angle behind the bolt head. Here, they've raised the boss for the bolt and spot-faced, keeping the forging intact. If this bracket is available, I'll upgrade mine as I verified that it was cracking and welded a repair. The leg itself, though, is still short and mine has only the short nub to deploy it. The obvious answer here is just to install later V11 parts. If they're available, and not prohibitively expensive.-
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14 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
I do know docc that the V11 stand bracket has the additional 6mm bolt securing it to the sump extension. Daytonas dont have this and I suspect the 1100 Sports dont either because they weren't fitted with the wide sump. If you fit an aftermarket extended sump then you cant use this smaller bolt. Paul Minnaert runs his bike with the std Daytona stand bracket and extended sump from memory.
Paul might like to chime in with details.
Ciao
Sport injected is wide sump with additional 6mm bolt.
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6 hours ago, docc said:
After the suspension work on my Sport, which increased the rear ride height and spec'd the springs for my weight, my sidestand has never touched down again.
@Pressureangle - How different is all the bracketry, or the stand itself, between the 1100 Sport-i and the V11? (AFAIK, all V11 stands are the same.)
I'm not at all sure. I saw a couple different versions at the SSR.
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How many different V11 models share the sidestand leg with 1100 Sport-i?
One thing on the long list is the possibility of manufacturing new, sturdier and possibly relocated sidestand brackets. Recently someone stated their leg was broken off in shipping; my own stand has the foot nearly worn off, and I extended the leg a bit by drilling and tapping a bolt into the bottom of the foot. Not a pretty solution.
So then, since brackets are already in my mind, what could be the demand for the leg itself? Perhaps if it was 1/4", 1/2" longer? Opinions?
We have a military-grade aluminum forge nearby, with what I think is fantastic pricing- that is, on things they already have dies for- and their minimum order is 400. That's a lot of legs.
What's the thought on having new ones made? Or is it better just to find a suitable replacement somewhere and make it work?
Adjustable voltage regulator?
in Technical Topics
Posted
Now put that 1.5% on the end of a lever the height of the battery. It's noticeable.
No, it doesn't really matter.