Pressureangle
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Posts posted by Pressureangle
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If you can touch it firmly for 10 whole seconds, temp is 150* or less. Not a concern. The reg body is a heat sink; most have fins to air cool, some sink to the metal base they're bolted to which is why a clean solid attachment is required.
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Who's here?
Just got in!
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I bought this one. I think my throttle sleeve has been shortened a bit from stock, and the rubber grip protrudes enough that I always thought I'd twiddle it a bit to make it perfect, but I have 12k miles on it without twiddling and I'm very happy with it.
Thank you for shopping with us! We hope you'll write about your Kaoko Throttle Lock Cruise Control Suzuki GSX-R600 '96-'18, GSX-R750 '96-'18 & GSX-R1000 '01-'16 (With 16.8mm Handle Bar Inside Diameter) while it's still fresh on your mind.
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On 8/7/2020 at 12:31 AM, Vic said:
Parts that I'd like to see made by Pressureangle are foot peg lowering brackets, similar in design to what was used on the Centauro.
They wouldn't have to be cast aluminum, simple plate steel might be cheaper and stronger. The Guzzi parts are hard to find and silly expensive for what they are.
Also since Chuck no longer is making the "lucky Phill" shift extension arms, this might be another possibility.
I'm very glad that they are still making the Roper plates.
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Footpeg brackets won't be cast, they are forged. They could be made of steel I suppose. They'd be expensive unless there's demand for quite a few, too. What's the factory price?
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On 8/6/2020 at 7:36 PM, gstallons said:
How much are they each ?
$85 in the U.S., maybe more depending on shipping to OCONUS destinations.
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4 hours ago, Vic said:
For those wondering, the good news is that Pressureangle is still selling the roper plate, I just ordered one today. Thanks Eric!
For what it's worth, I have about 20 plates left, and intend to keep them available forever. Pete Roper will always get license on any new production runs.
Vic suggested that there may be other desirable components looking for manufacture; if so, suggest them and we can discuss demand and costs.
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I've traveled a lot this year, oddly. May have to go to VietNam in a couple weeks. Must be the military immunization bloc.
BTDT-
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5 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
Same except for the compression ratio 9.3 for the V11 and 10.5 for the 1100 sport although the V11 has 67 kw V's the 1100 Sport with 66 kw.
Cam is the same as is the valve size and bore and stroke. The V11 has EFI and the Sport 1100 had carbs. 1100 Sport-i had injection.
Ciao
What's the explanation for the power difference? Intake valve shrouding is the only thing that comes to mind.
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I wrecked my knees on the hood of a Pontiac in 1980. My doctor told me ten years ago "You needed new knees years ago". I attribute my ability to get around as well as I do to cycling. If I go a couple months without regular bicycling (for you jokers) I knot up, cramp up and suffer. Cycling is zero impact and high range-of-motion exercise. It's important to get comfortable with clip-in pedals, so you can involve your hamstrings and hip flexors in a balanced effort. I'll second the Magnesium as well, Potassium doesn't seem to help with cramps but Magnesium does.
Also, if you have lower back pain, try rolling a towel and using it under your lower back area, even if you're a side sleeper to keep your spine straight. A soft mattress kills me after 3-4 nights, so consider that; if you have a very soft mattress, consider sleeping on the sofa or try putting the couch cushions on the floor and sleeping on them, see if that doesn't help significantly.
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I bought my '85 LM with the 16" stock wheel, didn't like it at all. Poor feedback, insecure, twitchy-while-disconnected feel. It had Metzeler lazer on the front.
I found an 18" front, which I ran for about 30,000 miles. It was dead stable with any tire I put on it. I'm in S. Florida, so there was never any way to know how it cornered.
Fast forward ten years, I completely rebuilt the bike from the crankshaft up to pass along to my son. After some consideration, I installed the 16" front with Continentals; at the same time I installed Works Performance shocks, 1/2" longer than the stock Konis; Upgraded fork springs and FAC dampers. After some spirited if limited local riding, I ended with the forks out of the top triple clamp about an inch. These are the steel clamps, I have no way to know if they're 'original' or 'kit' trees, and don't know the exact difference. Ultimately, the thing was a lumber wagon with the 18", perfect for fast straight riding but with proper setup the 16" is perfectly stable with good feedback and confidence, while being enormously easier to turn in all circumstances.
It's possible that the thing just really hated the Metzeler front it came with, but I never tried something else before the swap.
So there's no definitive answer, but that there is no inherent problem with the 16" front. You just have to find what it likes.-
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On 2/6/2008 at 10:03 PM, Greg Field said:
No, even though I was a dealer for their products, they blew me off. Needless to say, I have bought nothing from them since then. I threw away he cracked crossover. Sorry.
This is a very old post, but you know how it is.
I've signed up for a new Staintune system for the 'Sport. Currently, it has what appears to be a FBF crossover on it, with Mistral short cans.
For what it's worth, the FBF cracked on the center weld and was repaired by welding then welding a reinforcement strip about 1/2" wide around the entire center joint. A very professional repair.
So, when I installed the Jeffries MyECU, I made a place in the crossover for the O2 sensor; what I discovered then, is that there is actually *NO CROSSOVER*. The 'crossover' part is nothing more than the two pipes flattened and welded to each other, with no holes in between. Lovely engineering, eh? Perhaps it's better for power, I don't know, but calling it a crossover is a bit disingenuous. I have to wonder what Stucchi has done there.
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The U-joint phasing is critical; that is, the front and rear yokes must be in perfect alignment. Assembling a spline off will eventually kill the joints or gears, unless it shakes your seat off first.
That said, if the spline count is even, you can align them at 0* or at 180* with no difference- except that if you put the front zerk up and the rear zerk down, you can grease both zerks without turning the wheel in between.-
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I have a couple sets, metric and SAE. They're awesome. The only thing you have to mind is if you've drained the entire system, or run new empty lines, they have enough resistance that you may not be able to compress the air in the lines with the master cylinder. Probably not even a potential problem on a motorcycle.
They work as advertised, and best part is they don't drip all over when you gravity bleed. -
Maybe it was the other forum, but I recall some long threads about one cylinder misfires that were maddening. It was Tonti bikes, but perhaps the same applies here.
On my '85 LeMans, I had a weak cylinder- don't recall left or right but to make the long story short, the positive feed to the coils came in on one terminal, then there was a short jumper wire from there to the second coil. A significant number of bikes had that jumper fail, which killed the secondary one. A simple replacement of the jumper wire fixed the problem, but it was a bitch to discover. If your coils are set up this way, a simple measure of resistance in the jumper wire might tell the story and make for a simple fix.-
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On 5/6/2020 at 8:20 AM, Randy said:
Installed a week ago, hard running up and down the mountains last weekend with not a flicker from the oil light 😊
Randy, was the flicker a noticeable event in the past? Always curious.
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On 4/29/2020 at 2:40 PM, docc said:
And the Sport-i driveline is only ~5mm offset like the V11?
No idea, and not enough access to the bracket to measure. I'm going to use the 80/20 rule and say Probably.
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18 hours ago, docc said:
From all I can see, the bracket welded to the underside of the RedFrame is centered to the spine. The welded bracket is shown in the early workshop manual, but not on the dimensioned drawing! @Pressureangle , is this frame-to-engine/gearbox plate present on the 1100 Sport-i ?
Here is a reference image of the connecting plate added to my Sport. So hard to even capture an image, let alone sneak in a roll of toweling . . .
(View looking up and forward from behind the right throttle body, both injectors and linkage rod visible):
The bracket is in place on mine, and the bike was so stock and poorly cared for when I bought it I have to believe it is stock.
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Ditto reservations.
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3 hours ago, 4corsa said:On 4/26/2020 at 10:52 AM, Pressureangle said:I have about 25 of them but not one installed... :/ lol
I might be interested in one of you'd like to reduce your stock to an even two dozen.
The simplest thing to do is PM me with your Paypal email, and I'll send an invoice.
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I have about 25 of them but not one installed... :/ lol
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On 3/6/2020 at 9:26 PM, LowRyter said:
Just a note. I am retired guy. I am very concerned about the Coronavirus. Yes, my hair is on fire but I'm not gonna debate it here. But it got me motivated. I am applying for volunteer status at the State Health Dept. I've learned that since 9/11 the entire nation has a volunteer emergency force (mine is the Oklahoma Medical Reserve Corps ). These are statewide volunteer groups to help out with any planned or unplanned events that might affect public safety. My state is #1 for Federal emergencies (per capita) and only behind TX and Cali for all emergencies. I've passed 3 of my 4 tests to participate. I have no medical skill (or mechanical skills as everyone here knows), hopefully I can work the planning, budgeting, and logistics stuff. If not, I'll pass out leaflets and clean the floors. All states have these organizations.
Anyway, food for thought for all you retired guys. There are times of emergency that the paid folks can't keep up with, we're all in the same country, so no need waiting for some else to do what needs to be done.
After I get some hands on, I'll tell ya straight if this a help to the world or just eyewash PR deal.
https://www.ready.gov/cert
Our company in Ohio is in, as am I here in Florida.-
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I worked on RV's for some years. They're full of Maxifuses. I've seen a lot.
What you have here is a classic case of 'shyte Chinese fuse'. See how the terminal spade is as thin as the 'fuse blow' bridge? No mystery here, the fuse is very marginal if in fact capable of seeing 30 amps. I'd wager if you blow it intentionally, you won't see 25 amps. It simply overheats the thin area and over time melts the plastic, and heats all the surrounding contacts. Simply shyte, $0.0001 saved on materials x 5 billion pieces. Find a 30A fuse that doesn't have any thin areas besides the blow bridge. You'll probably have to order online, and they'll cost $5.00 each.-
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On 2/17/2017 at 7:16 PM, tom3 said:
It looks like the battery in my 2001 Sport is no longer holding charge. It is an Odyssey PC545 (with metal jacket), and the labels on it indicate a manufacture date of July 2005 and installation in 2006. I've had the bike since 2008 and the battery has never given me problems until recently.
I briefly considered reconditioning it, but I'm leaning toward just replacing it given how old it is. From the many battery threads that turned up in my search, it looks like PC545 still gets most of your votes. That is the default choice for me as well since I've had good experience with the one that came in my bike. (though I probably shortened its life by putting it on a Battery Tender Jr out of ignorance).
Nevertheless, I'd like to make sure that it is still the way to go since many of the threads I found are from a few years ago.
For instance, would this Yuasa YTX-15L with it's higher CCA be a better choice? http://www.ebay.com/itm/262433899795
What about LiPO4 batteries?
Thanks!!
I got ten years out of a PC545 in my LeMans. I tried reconditioning it with an electronic battery saver, but it did not respond, something I did find in Odyssey's literature. Not an option apparently, and lost the very expensive 27 series Odyssey in my Charger because the ground fault popped on the trickle charger circuit while I was out of town and left the battery flat for a couple weeks. No recovery possible.
On the Lithium note; I put one in my 1100 Sport-i a couple summers ago. It was...marginally satisfactory. It had great cranking power, but very little reserve- my onboard camera has a parasitic drain for a 'parking' mode, and it took enough out of the Lithium that it wouldn't start after standing 24 hours. After standing in the bike for a year disconnected but for 3-4 short rides, it never did start the bike reliably again. I loved the weight but ultimately went back to the Odyssey. -
Hey, it's Winter here and Wintertime Navel-Gazing is the U.S. National Winter passtime for bikers.
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S'xteenth South'n Spine Raid 2020
in Meetings, Clubs & Events
Posted
The pipes are BUB. I'm not sure they're the best possible top end performance, but the thing pulls like a dump truck from 1500 RPM with the Web 86b cam.