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Pressureangle last won the day on November 12 2019

Pressureangle had the most liked content!

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About Pressureangle

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  • My bikes
    '85 LM1000 '97 1100 Sport i '89 Mille GT '71 Norton Fastback Commando '74 Aermacchi 350 Sprint
  • Location
    South Florida

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  1. The pipes are BUB. I'm not sure they're the best possible top end performance, but the thing pulls like a dump truck from 1500 RPM with the Web 86b cam.
  2. If you can touch it firmly for 10 whole seconds, temp is 150* or less. Not a concern. The reg body is a heat sink; most have fins to air cool, some sink to the metal base they're bolted to which is why a clean solid attachment is required.
  3. I bought this one. I think my throttle sleeve has been shortened a bit from stock, and the rubber grip protrudes enough that I always thought I'd twiddle it a bit to make it perfect, but I have 12k miles on it without twiddling and I'm very happy with it. Thank you for shopping with us! We hope you'll write about your Kaoko Throttle Lock Cruise Control Suzuki GSX-R600 '96-'18, GSX-R750 '96-'18 & GSX-R1000 '01-'16 (With 16.8mm Handle Bar Inside Diameter) while it's still fresh on your mind. -P
  4. Footpeg brackets won't be cast, they are forged. They could be made of steel I suppose. They'd be expensive unless there's demand for quite a few, too. What's the factory price?
  5. $85 in the U.S., maybe more depending on shipping to OCONUS destinations.
  6. For what it's worth, I have about 20 plates left, and intend to keep them available forever. Pete Roper will always get license on any new production runs. Vic suggested that there may be other desirable components looking for manufacture; if so, suggest them and we can discuss demand and costs.
  7. I've traveled a lot this year, oddly. May have to go to VietNam in a couple weeks. Must be the military immunization bloc. BTDT
  8. What's the explanation for the power difference? Intake valve shrouding is the only thing that comes to mind.
  9. I wrecked my knees on the hood of a Pontiac in 1980. My doctor told me ten years ago "You needed new knees years ago". I attribute my ability to get around as well as I do to cycling. If I go a couple months without regular bicycling (for you jokers) I knot up, cramp up and suffer. Cycling is zero impact and high range-of-motion exercise. It's important to get comfortable with clip-in pedals, so you can involve your hamstrings and hip flexors in a balanced effort. I'll second the Magnesium as well, Potassium doesn't seem to help with cramps but Magnesium does. Also, if you have lower bac
  10. I bought my '85 LM with the 16" stock wheel, didn't like it at all. Poor feedback, insecure, twitchy-while-disconnected feel. It had Metzeler lazer on the front. I found an 18" front, which I ran for about 30,000 miles. It was dead stable with any tire I put on it. I'm in S. Florida, so there was never any way to know how it cornered. Fast forward ten years, I completely rebuilt the bike from the crankshaft up to pass along to my son. After some consideration, I installed the 16" front with Continentals; at the same time I installed Works Performance shocks, 1/2" longer than the stock Koni
  11. This is a very old post, but you know how it is. I've signed up for a new Staintune system for the 'Sport. Currently, it has what appears to be a FBF crossover on it, with Mistral short cans. For what it's worth, the FBF cracked on the center weld and was repaired by welding then welding a reinforcement strip about 1/2" wide around the entire center joint. A very professional repair. So, when I installed the Jeffries MyECU, I made a place in the crossover for the O2 sensor; what I discovered then, is that there is actually *NO CROSSOVER*. The 'crossover' part is nothing more than the
  12. The U-joint phasing is critical; that is, the front and rear yokes must be in perfect alignment. Assembling a spline off will eventually kill the joints or gears, unless it shakes your seat off first. That said, if the spline count is even, you can align them at 0* or at 180* with no difference- except that if you put the front zerk up and the rear zerk down, you can grease both zerks without turning the wheel in between.
  13. I have a couple sets, metric and SAE. They're awesome. The only thing you have to mind is if you've drained the entire system, or run new empty lines, they have enough resistance that you may not be able to compress the air in the lines with the master cylinder. Probably not even a potential problem on a motorcycle. They work as advertised, and best part is they don't drip all over when you gravity bleed.
  14. Maybe it was the other forum, but I recall some long threads about one cylinder misfires that were maddening. It was Tonti bikes, but perhaps the same applies here. On my '85 LeMans, I had a weak cylinder- don't recall left or right but to make the long story short, the positive feed to the coils came in on one terminal, then there was a short jumper wire from there to the second coil. A significant number of bikes had that jumper fail, which killed the secondary one. A simple replacement of the jumper wire fixed the problem, but it was a bitch to discover. If your coils are set up this way,
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