Pressureangle
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Posts posted by Pressureangle
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Here in Florida where the morning dew is salty, I use silicone spray on the bare aluminum to eliminate white dusty corrosion and protect it.
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Er, my envy of 6 speed boxes just relaxed a little bit.
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11 hours ago, docc said:
Lots of significant changes for an 1800 mile bike. Collectors, and purists, will cringe, and shy away.
I once rode a hotted-up GB with the 600 cylinder, 10.5:1 Wiseco piston, and custom semi-downdraft intake for the >no-idle-circuit< Mikuni. It, too, had a SuperTrap exhaust. The fellow told me he stacked every (exhaust) plate he could find in his shop. There must have been twelve, or more!
I asked the clever Aussie about his air filter . . .
"Filters just slow the air down!"
*I* wouldn't shy away. There's no reliability issue with genuine Honda parts.
A long time ago I got to ride Ted Boody's ex-TT racer, a C&J framed XR600 with ALL the goodies. We had a 1/2 mile track on a Michigan lake. The thing would carry the front wheel at 80mph while sideways through the entire corner. Awesome.-
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I just requested 2 rooms and 4 garage spaces. we'll see how it plays out.
Lost year I stayed up the road at the Mountain View cabins. As nice, better view, same price. No garage tho so you'll have to ride back...safely
http://www.tellicologcabins.com/-
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12 hours ago, laurent said:
It is leaking gearbox oil/cracked through
That crack quite visibly runs along the hard machined corner. Poor machining practice in a stressed area. It should have a radius in the fillet.
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If it's not broken through to the fluid compartment, I wouldn't even disassemble it. I haven't seen the crack-prone area, but if it's a dry crack in the bellhousing, I'd consider having it repaired in situ while it's bolted to the motor and cools to it's appropriate position. If you have more reason or desire to get the motor out of the frame, so much the easier.
What's perfect, preferred, or a sufficient minimum are all different answers but don't serve the question, only your sensibilities. Mine run towards 'best utility with sufficient optics'.
Anyone have a picture of a similar crack? -
Precisely these symptoms when my starter failed.
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14 hours ago, Chris Wilson said:
Hi Docc,
There are already numerous threads on this site about this but they all say to retard the ignition point when adding a second plug but surely you would advance it because the flame path is shorter and now symmetrical?
No expert on where to advance but to me it has to be mapped preserving idle and keeping watch on pre-ignition.
Got the feeling that I am going to learn something here!
Chris.
Simple, really once it's pointed out. The engine has a crankshaft angle at which peak cylinder pressure has the greatest effect (about 20* ATC iirc) so it's not the ignition that matters, but how quickly peak cylinder pressure is reached. Ignition timing is moved to accommodate the rate of burn to get the peak where it does the most work.
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I have about 5 pounds of lead shot I was going to put in the bars on the '85 LeMans, but after the engine work the vibration went away and it wasn't necessary to try out. Might give it another go in my '74 Aermacchi this spring tho.
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On 12/3/2021 at 2:07 AM, Kiwi_Roy said:
A starter motor is almost a short circuit so if it locks up its probably pulling 250 Amps or More, I measured the starter on my VII once and found it drawing in the 150 - 170 Amp range.
Any DC motor with brushes is also a generator, as it spins its producing a Voltage in the opposite direction to the battery, this is known as Back Electromotive Force (Back EMF for short), the faster it spins the less current it draws. Of course if its not spinning the only thing the limits the current is the load resistance and the batteries internal resistance.
Its quite easy to measure the starter current all you need is a shunt made of regular wire and a cheap multimeter with a millivolt range. I'm sure there's a copy of my home made shunt sketch on here somewhere.
We call BEF 'Flyback' in the U.S.
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On 11/23/2021 at 7:34 PM, Lucky Phil said:
Depends whether the pump feed check valve is functioning ok.
Ciao
I think I remember an old guy talking about his grandfather having one like that
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31 minutes ago, p6x said:
Gear pumps are flow through.
I used Sundyne pumps early in the 80's. They were equipped with by-passes and regulation valves at the outlet. But after use, you had to isolate them, else you could get flow back.
We all know what happens when you leave an iron H-D or old English dry sump sit a month, don't we? ...don't we...?
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On 11/20/2021 at 6:35 AM, pete roper said:
Can anybody really think of anything more embarrassing than wishing to have a 'Card' that has to be shown to indicate you are a member of a business sponsored advertising program called a 'Clan'?
It is so monstrously cringeworthy it deserves a triple facepalm in a darkened room! Do these people have no dignity to loose?
Just looking at the awful 'Presentations' used in early 'Clan' promotions made me feel soiled and my gorge rise. How dreadful can it possibly get?
Well here, 'clan' carries only a little baggage, particularly if you grew up around any UK communities.
I'll give them latitude for being Italians.clan (n.)
"a family, a tribe," especially, among the Highlanders of Scotland, a form of social organization consisting of a tribe holding land in common under leadership of a chieftain, early 15c., from Gaelic clann "family, stock, offspring," akin to Old Irish cland "offspring, tribe," both from Latin planta "offshoot" (see plant (n.)).The Goidelic branch of Celtic (including Gaelic) had no initial p-, so it substituted k- or c- for Latin p-. The same Latin word in (non-Goidelic) Middle Welsh became plant "children."
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5 hours ago, Grim said:
I agree with you there, my friend runs a garage/motorcycle breakers and sells all the parts on Ebay.. He just has to wait a loooong time to sell some parts, he's had my guzzi exhausts on there for 2 years now!
There *is* money in waiting. I once surfed eBay for over 3 years looking for a correct front fender for a '62 Norton Atlas. When one finally came around, it was near $400 with only 3 bidders. Rarified air, but unobtanium.
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I've used eBay since nearly it's beginning.
It was simple, the people were honest, and cheap.
Now, it's a nightmare; fees are high, flooding by new product makes finding pearls difficult, 'sponsored' product pushes your searched items out, can't even find the 'used' condition button without scrolling. It's so blatantly engineered to capitalize volume at the expense of your economy that I won't even list anything I can't get $20 for, when I used to list anything I thought someone would want usually starting at $0. I can't imagine trying to make a living on eBay (as my neighbor does, and quite a decent living too)
So I cut some slack to those listing used parts at 'ridiculous' prices, because they're running a business, at least of sorts. But I lament the days of people just trying to help their hobby community by not throwing parts in the bin.
Done crying for now...-
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Ever see a moment pass by when you have specific information, but wonder if it should see the light of day? This is one of those moments.
There was a discussion about oil pumps back in the '90s when I was racing 883 Sportsters. They have a georotor oil pump. The question at hand, an academic one, is why H-D went to georotor after decades with a gear pump in that place. One guy who happened around during the discussion was an automotive engine builder of some renoun; he said he'd been told that gear pumps with high pressures had the problem of pressure spikes when they were too tight, and that bleeding mitigated those spikes. No consequence of those spikes was put forth. The trade-off was that idle oil pressure was reduced.
Upon building a small-block Chevrolet for my pickup truck last summer, I saw offered a spiral-cut gear pump for high-pressure/performance applications, with the claim to reduce pressure spikes. The claim was that these pressure spikes increased hydraulic lifter pump-up particularly in 'stock' or 'limited modification' engines.
Meh. Who knows? H-D went to the Georotor pump at the same time they started using hydraulic lifters in the Sportsters.
I do know that in most American engines, distributor/oil pump drive gears are a point of failure, and it's critical to choose compatible components. Maybe there's something there on the durability scale.
My daily navel-gazing.-
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Read this thread. My starter seized the front bearing and had apparently been the root of hard starting for quite some time before complete failure.
https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/23219-starters-batteries/#comment-265184
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On 10/26/2021 at 7:43 PM, docc said:
I was thinking if anyone had that V11EE, it might be parked between a Riviera and an elephant-motor Mopar in some secret Norwegian location . . .
That would be IPA-time, indeed!
Tangent thread; circa 2001 I went to Stockholm, Sweden for two weeks. The first Saturday night we were walking towards downtown when I heard a familiar rumble. A few moments later a parade of a dozen or twenty American muscle cars rolled by like it was Woodward Avenue. I laughed out loud. Glorious.
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22 hours ago, p6x said:
Since I started using tools, I always knew and used FACOM. To me, they are the best money can buy, and they are very expensive.
But they are not available in the USA. Most of the websites are actually EUR based. Or at least, this is what I found after a quick search.
What would be the best brand you would recommend? USAG?
A quick search on Amazon brings tens of brands I never heard about, and I have no clue how well they are manufactured and tolerances.
Thanks for your input!
If you really want the best quality, as mentioned above there are a number of brands that are arguably equivalent in durability, but the nationwide professional brands are Snap-On, Matco, and MAC. Personally I'm a Snap-On customer, as they have the largest distribution network anywhere I've been. I won't make an assertion today, but 20 years ago all the hand tools were made in USA. They have the sub-brand Blue-Point, which are good tools with warranty but are usually re-branded outsiders found less expensively elsewhere. Meh.
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14 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
I read in the book " Not much of an engineer" By Stanley Hooker a massive name in RR the classic line from Hives who ran RR during the war when he first had a meeting with Frank Whittle to discuss RR building Whittles jet engine. Whittle said to him that his jet engine was a "simple Engine" to which Hives replied, "Don't worry we'll engineer the simplicity out of it" lol. Classic and true to this day. I've worked on American, European/American and English RR turbo props and high bypass jets and RR always seem to do it the complex way.
Ciao
I was brass-deep in the restoration of a 1975 RR Camargue. Ugh...4 piston brake calipers, 2 calipers per wheel, cross-linked accumulators for the brake system, etc. Amazingly complex and completely unneccessary. The engine, however, was positively sublime. It was weak by American standards, but once made new you literally couldn't tell if it was running or not with the hood down. Sleeved iron block, aluminum cylinder heads, replaceable aluminum lifter blocks, huge diameter camshaft. I became enlightened about the practice of delivering Man's best effort, as opposed to an economical effort. The burled maple interior was book-matched side to side, and Rolls cataloged every other set of veneer between cars, to facilitate as in our case the replacement of a piece of wood with matching grain. I hated the car but the experience was Religious.
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On 10/22/2021 at 8:11 PM, Lucky Phil said:
Yes you're right. I was thinking of the Meteor engine but that was sans supercharger. As for the Messerschmitts supercharger being better well as Greg points out in his excellent video (along with all his other stuff which is great) their "drive" was superior but holistically their supercharger system wasn't necessarily.
Ciao
Since when did the Germans constrain complexity to utility?
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3 hours ago, Pressureangle said:
My hyperbole and sarcasm is always lost.
Not to take a ridiculous side trip, but I can't think of a single WWII tank that was boosted. Aircraft usually, Messerschmitt's variable supercharger was a decade ahead of everyone else's.
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13 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
What makes you think a fights going to start, but since you mentioned it. I know pete had in his mind the context of modified automotive/motorcycle engines here but because I'm a front bottom I'll remind him anyway that without the Supercharged/turbocharger spark ignition engine we'd all be speaking German now, lol. Mind you without it there probably wouldn't have been WW2 to start with. The supercharged spark engine was fitted to aircraft, tanks, patrol boats plus probably other stuff I can't recall.
Ciao
My hyperbole and sarcasm is always lost.
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9 hours ago, pete roper said:
Forced induction on spark ignited engines is a first class ticket to misery on steroids!
Before the fight starts, can we all just agree that forced induction as an addition demands an order of magnitude more development and tuning to the point that you've equaled the engineering of an OEM?
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Why a Moto Guzzi? moreover, why a V11 anyway? curious? nostalgic? are you odd? just an opportunity? no? what then?
in 24/7 V11
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'Guzzi released the LeMans 1 when I was 15. I fell in love with the cans, as all 15 year olds do.
My family owns Dyna/Reno motorcycles, and I visited when I was 18; my Uncle's friend left the shop on his souped-up Eldorado with Continental mufflers, winding it out pretty hard.
It only took me another 22 years to come up with both an opportunity and enough money to own one, the '85 LM1000. I'd been lusting after the 1100 Sport since the introduction of the Daytona, and was friends with Ron McGill who rode Dr. John's development bikes on track.
It was inevitable.