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80CX100

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Posts posted by 80CX100

  1. 3 hours ago, fotoguzzi said:

    Don’t you have to buy the whole drive shaft with both joints?

    speaking of bleeding the clutch. I noticed on my CARC bike there is a braided hose from the bleed nipple up under the saddle for easy bleeding. Seems like it could be an easy add to the Spine frames?

    Scud did an excellent write up on it,I thought I filed it away safely,but I can't find the file or the original link,but this is his post on compatible parts.

    I'm not as smooth as Docc on this stuff,hopefully the link works right for you

    It's on my to do list at some point when a parts order is going in;it makes so much sense.

    Tks Scud for doing the leg work trying to make bleeding that clutch an easier job,,,it's a biatch.:homer:

    :thumbsup:

    • Thanks 2
  2. I agree with the a/m posts on fitting gaskets,I'm just throwing ideas out there;I'm surprised that a metal core gasket isn't fitting

    Iirc all timing chest gaskets were standard across all model lines,I would've assumed that a metal core gasket should be of a higher quality,manufactured to a higher standard?

    I don't recall,but they are symmetrical aren't they, ie.the holes are a mirror image from side to side,frontwards/backwards it wouldn't matter on installation?

    fwiw idk

     

  3. 2 minutes ago, guzziart said:

    I tried to install a metal core cam chain cover gasket but the gasket doesn't fit very well so back to the drawing board.

    I've never had to do it myself & thought it wouldn't apply to metal core gaskets,,,but,,,

    I've read that sometimes gaskets will dry and shrink,,,soaking them in water for a while apparently returns them to their original size,easing installation

    fwiw idk

  4. 5 hours ago, radguzzi said:

      He cleaned the commutator and solenoid, there was a great deal of oil residue and build up of gunk that was getting into the solenoid can intermittently stopping the current from offering full trust to the flywheel. 

     
    I do not see oil from either the engine rear main or trans front seal looking into the starter opening on the engine however, the gunk-up solenoid was the issue.  Twenty-on year old Guzzi...
     

     

    It would be nice to know where that oil came from;iirc in the hoses that normally drain to the ground behind the starter cover,isn't one of those a crank case vent hose,possibly the bike was over filled with oil at some point or the crank case hose has cracked where it's attached to the engine.

    Along the same thought,if the tranny was over filled and the clutch push rod slave cylinder was loose,could it leak onto the solenoid if the bike was leaning over on it's side stand for a long time.

    fwiw idk

    • Like 2
  5. 16 minutes ago, Baldini said:

    It appears you subscribe to the "this one broke, I'll fix it one day when I have a bit more time, meanwhile I better get a working one to keep me on the road" school of motorcycle ownership - a man after my own heart.

     
     
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    ReplyForward

    OMG,that's too funny,,,the story of my life.

    Explains the size of my herd,,,but also the bikes on my job list that don't get tended to.

    I thought I was the only one,,,glad there's a few others.

    :D:rasta::D

  6. 17 hours ago, docc said:

    Correct, but your wiring harness gives you both a left, and separate right, turn signal indicators (instead of the Battery/Charging Light) !  <  . . . . >

    Still, all V11 should start and run either with the sidestand up (in or out of gear) and with the sidestand down in neutral (with power supplied through the middle/#3 relay that is activated by the Neutral Switch.

    Hey Docc; With the running changes through model years and all the different variations & sequences in the safety switches,,there are some funky unexplained anomalies in the real world.

         I think back to last fall when I couldn't get guzzidiag to connect with the ECU on my 2003 Lemans unless the side stand was down.

         It made no sense then & imho,it is completely illogical & counterintuitive,that with the side stand up,the bike would start & run fine,but guzzidiag would never connect with the ECU if the side stand was retracted.

        I'm glad I figured it out & solved it,but it reinforced in my mind that when it comes to all of the safety switches & relay,ECU sequences etc there are no absolute certainties across the model years.

         jmo fwiw ymmv

         

  7. 1 hour ago, al_roethlisberger said:

    I'm sure it is posted several times elsewhere, but just for anyone's reference if they search and find this thread:  What is the "best" grease to use on these splines?  I thought I recall someone posting a BMW part number they thought was ideal.

     

     

    Tom;    Tks very much for sharing the timely reminder & photographic evidence that preventative maintenance is required there. I've got that filed away and the next time I'm working on that area of the bike,it'll be on my to do list.

    Al, re the best spline grease, there have been a few different oem brand greases recommended ie Honda,BMW etc,but most of the elder guzzisti sages in the know have recommended Wurth SIG3000; up here in Canuckistan it's as rare as hen's teeth I could never find it,so I've picked up a variety of different moly lubes over the years.

    I was pleasantly surprised last summer,when I dropped into Bromley Tractor Supply way up in the the boonies in Douglas,I was picking up hydraulic controller parts for my rebranded Kioti Tactor and spotted tubes of Wurth SIG3000 up on their shelf,the price marked on it was very reasonable $15.

    All that to say, it's a great sticky grease,probably worth the effort to find it & if you have trouble locating it,calls to a local tractor shop, might pay off.

    fwiw

    • Thanks 2
  8. Hey Al tks for posting the BAT link,that'll be a neat auction to follow.

    All of these NIB crate bikes come with the same moral dilemma,ride it or preserve it? I'm glad it's a decision that someone else with deep pockets has to make.

    Guzzis of that era are extremely rare in my area,I got the shock of my life 5-6 yrs ago,when I pulled into a local Kawi dealer for parts and parked beside a beautiful Daytona. The owner/rider of the bike,really wasn't a guzzi guy. He was a high level executive type,with a nice Italian toy.

    Those bikes are definitely sexy,but the headache of dealing with the belt issue,aren't my cup of tea.

    Interesting to see Mark Knofler bidding. In the comments he mentions regretting seeing it too late when it recently sold to the seller on FB Marketplace;knowing what a passionate big kid he is at heart, I don't think he'll let it get away this time,jmho.

    Definitely one of the most interesting auctions ever on BAT;curious to see how high the big boys go.

  9. I'm not familiar with the "epub" format,but I do snag and compile a lot of info from a wide variety of sources.

    My experience has been to avoid conflicts,formatting issues etc the most fool proof method for me,is always to copy it into a straight "text" file format ie.notepad etc,then copy it over into whatever system I'm on.

    Copying info into a text file first kills all the hidden formatting,template,hyperlink issues etc

    Will that work and be of benefit for what you're trying to do,idk.

    fwiw

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  10. I've personally seen how devastating the forces can be in these torque arm set ups.

    One of the VRRA racers I got to know, A.J.Simiana sp? was just starting a fresh build/setup on an older Tonti frame Lemans3? race bike.

    AJ is an experienced racer and a decent builder within his limited budget. He designed and built a torque arm set up similar in appearance,to the Magni Parallel swing arm setup.

    I'm not sure what aspect of the build caused the problem,but his very first race,he tore the welded front support completely off the swingarm/frame area.

    It was a complete catastrophic failure,luckily didn't cause a crash.

    AJ redid some math calculations,angles etc,redesigned it,rewelded the support and solved the problem,but for sure there's some serious forces involved.

    Iirc I removed and greased or put anti seize on the back bolt,but I'm almost positive I didn't touch the front one.

    Tks for the warning and discussion,I'll be taking a close look at that.

    • Like 2
  11. I welcome any feedback,while this topic is on the burner,because it also happens to be on my "to do" list; there is one other aspect to this that iirc was an issue.

    I've read a ton of info on the pros/cons replacing the gaskets in the crossovers with solid machined pieces vs just eliminating the crossover completely with new headers.

    Iirc there were a few/many? owners that replaced the gaskets at the crossover with solid machined metal pieces and experienced cracking in a variety of places around fixed fastening points of the header pipes, because of the loss of flexibility dealing with vibration/engine/pipe movement etc.

    fwiw idk

    • Like 2
  12. "IF" You're in the market for that type of bike,I'd be on that like a fat kid on a smartie :D

    The story & history sounds legit. He's got a major headache on his hands right now, I'd be inclined to offer 3.5-4K,as is,where is, and have a shipper get it to you for $500? It's too bad it's not closer to you.

    The rodent damage should be relatively easy to solve,it should be very apparent what needs repairing,and the wiring on the CalVins is much easier to work on compared to the V11s once the seat,covers,plastics are removed etc.

    If the rodents chewed through 1 or 2 wires,not that big a deal,,,if they had their family over for a buffet on the whole harness,,,that may be different:D

    I'll share some of the details on my CalVin, it may help you decide yeh or nay.

    I always kept tabs on local guzzis for sale,my CalVin 15k kms was first listed at $9500 about 6 yrs ago,it was over priced and there's not much market for guzzis here,so it never sold. Every 6 mths the seller would drop his price by $500,and after a while,he finally got down to $6500, about the same time my DL1000 VStrom let me down for the final time.

    My CalVin had already had the dissolving in tank fuel line replaced,so that headache was taken care of. They usually go within the first few years and are replaced then;it would be nice if that job has been done on the bike you're looking at.

    I offered my seller 6K,loaded it on the trailer and took the headache off his hands.

    I thought California Vintage, meant "vintage" wiring,so when I only got one key with the bike,I thought it would be simple to have a copy made.

    Wrong! Because the engine management system is from the Breva 1100,there is a chip hidden in the plastic part of the key,I was luckily able to get the 2nd key from a previous owner.

    If you buy the bike,make sure you get 2 keys,if you don't, it's a pita to get a 2nd one married up to the ignition system/ECU.

    When I bought the CalVin I had read about it being the last of the Tonti Frame bikes, and due to the racing heritage,it was reviewed as being a very good handling cruiser. So I threw it around back roads with that mindset and was extremely disappointed,it's too heavy,it wallowed like a whale.

    All I changed was my mind set,and learned to ride it like the fine leather Italian couch that it is;over time it's become my favorite,steady dependable ride.

    I was initially very hesitant,about the heel/toe shifter floor board set up,but grew to like it so much, I picked up a set of floor boards to put on my G5.

    Everybody's back is different,mine does best with a curve leaning forward helping to absorb road shock,the sitting straight up cruiser position on my CalVin would jar my back every now and then;I added an AirHawk & rolled the bars as far forward as possible,it's very close to perfect for me now.

    The seat on the bike you're looking at looks like it's been reworked or it's a custom;the foam seems thicker & the vinyl panels & stitching don't match my skunk seat. idk

    The values on the CalVin were dropping,but it seems like they've bottomed out and are starting to rise,all of the older Tonti cruisers,seem to be holding their value & rising.

    That bike looks like it's missing the lower leg shield plastics (they're fragile af) it should have new tires,battery,wiring repair,possibly the fuel tank line repair(which is a pita),but it could be a very good bike for you "IF" that's what you're looking for.

    fwiw ymmv good luck

     

    • Thanks 2
  13. This is a timely topic.

    With the low euro exchange rate, I ordered a crossover & muffler from Mistral last year,it worked out very well;regrettably I wasn't aware of the floppy crossover issue or I would've ordered a set of their non crossover header pipes at the same time.

    I've been preoccupied with other matters so I haven't done it yet,but I was intending on picking up a set of Mistral Header pipes,but then you end up going down the rabbit hole requiring new exhaust collars from MGCycle,or cutting the oem pipes because the oem collars are captured on the headers,gaskets,etc.

    My front header crossover & gaskets are fine,sealed well, working perfect,but I'm sure that's only because the bike has never had serious miles put on it,only 6K.

    From researching it,I'm certain that I'll have the floppy crossovers sooner rather than later;Murphy tells me it will be right in the middle of riding season,I'd love to take preemptive action or have a solution in hand to address the problem.

    Tks Al for posting that link,first I've heard of it,has anyone used the MPH solution,yeh or nay on it?

     

     

    • Like 1
  14. I can't remember who posted about them here; but picking up a pair of the Odyssey L bracket terminal extensions for my battery terminals were definitely one of the best additions to my bike.

    I find it extremely crowded around the battery area on my V11,just trying to reattach the cables to the battery was a major pita,the terminal extensions solved a lot of grief.

    Ps edited to add that the recommendations to relocate the battery tray mounting to underneath the frame brackets,is well worth doing. Each bike is different,my battery tray required a little bit of filing on the mounting tabs for clearance. With the battery tray mounted underneath,it only adds a small amount of extra clearance around the battery,but that area is crowded,every little bit helps.fwiw ymmv

     

    • Like 1
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  15. I got my MRA extended touring screen from Twisted Throttle,I "think" they may be the only authorized dealer in NA, but I could be wrong on that.

    Iirc it had to be ordered in before they shipped it to me, 3-4 wks total to my door and it qualified for free shipping due to the price,which I notice due to the exchange rate has actually gone down $5,lol.

    I went with the "Smoke Grey" there's a picture of it in my gallery photos if you want to take a look at it.

    https://twistedthrottle.com/shop/body-and-fairing/windshields-accessories/windshields/mra-touringscreen-windshield-for-moto-guzzi-v11-lemans-02-06-5/

    • Like 1
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  16. Historically,most of the police bikes in Canada are HD's,iirc I think that the QPF Quebec Surete ride BMWs.

    I've posted before about the misguided notion of giving the beat cops in Ottawa,Honda CB200s to rip around on;there were many impromptu mini GP races set up and the occasional ski hill climbing and jumping competitions:D

    Sadly,we had a fleet of Kawis for a few years;with all the heavy police equipment,the front end tended to be overwhelmed easily and go squirrely if pushed hard.

    In 1983,Cst.Russell O'Connor, a traffic cop on my platoon,was on route to a call traveling on the Queensway 417 Hwy,which was under construction being widened from 4 lanes to 6. As he crossed a bad seam in the old/new pavement transition,his Kawi went into a major head shake and threw him down hard.

    The helmets the traffic guys wore at that time,were cheap little half buckets,he died instantly.

    After Russ's death,Ottawa Police took all motorcycles off the road, but after a few years,fielded a fleet of HD's which they still have.

    • Thanks 1
    • Sad 2
  17. I think it's extremely bad business & counter productive.

    Manufacturers spend a lot of money on advertising,endorsements,movie placements etc,trying to develop brand recognition and hype & buzz about their products.

    As Docc mentions above, enthusiasts,forums,custom shops create a lot of good free promotion AND excited paying customers.

    I never did read Dave Richardson's books as Lucky Phil recommended,to get an understanding of the difficulties working with the guzzi factory/owners;but from the outside looking in,they seem to take pleasure & excel at pissing in the wrong people's corn flakes,jmho

    • Like 3
    • Haha 2
  18. 1 hour ago, activpop said:

    Wow, and I'm still trying to figure out if I can swing my leg over this monster with bags on...

    I've never ridden a Stelvio,but lusted for one for quite a while;I actually made a decent offer on a NOS 2014,but thankfully the dealer turned my offer down. With all the taxes,prep,freight charges etc,the price would've been 3 X what I paid for my V11 and at this point,that tall & heavy a bike really isn't what I need.

    From all the reading I did,the Stelvio owners,describe it as a tall heavy bike,that handles far better than you would think it should.

    Many describe it as the most comfortable touring rig they've ever ridden;IF that's what you're looking for in a motorcycle.

    fwiw

    • Thanks 1
  19. 1 hour ago, pete roper said:

    Service manuals are out. Full of interesting info. Lots of wailing and gnashing of teeth from the 'Old School' boys about having to take the cams out to change the valve clearances.:rolleyes:

    I take it by that comment that it's a bucket & shim setup,,, mea culpa,,,I'd be in the wailing and gnashing of teeth group:D

    I realize it's a more precise and long term stable adjustment once done,but for a home mechanic living far away from a shop with a supply of shims;that was a job I grew to detest. Major pita

    • Like 1
  20. In regards to the forum donation, a heads up in case this might affect you.

    I did my donation a few weeks ago,but because I had cancelled my PayPal account and used the same email address for the credit card donation. I thought it went through but PayPal blocked the whole transaction.

    I had to use a different email address from the one I had registered with PayPal to get around their block and actually complete transaction.

    Just an fyi if you happen to be one of the people that cancelled your PayPal account,something to keep in mind.

    fwiw fyi

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2
  21. 2 hours ago, docc said:

    MEMBER IMMEDIATE ACTION:

    Click on your username, top right.

    Select "Manage Folowed Content.

    Deselect "Technical Topics" subforum.

    I did NOT receive any of this spam attack;checked the spam folder in my gmail,nothing there from V11Lemans.

    I tried the a/m as instructed, I'm not sure I was in the right place, nothing like that jumped out at me;perhaps because I don't have it activated?Idk.

    I did notice that I did NOT have "PUSH" notifications enabled in my browser.

    Edit:  After reading through this whole thread I went back into my managed content for forums I followed and noted that I did NOT have any forums/subforums selected so that MAY be the method the spammers were using,if I got none of it. idk

    Fwiw it seems the spammers might have just recently discovered the Moto Guzzi land of opportunity. Some of the pages I follow on Facebook which are normally clean, have just recently been inundated with spam ads etc.

    I know it's a pita keeping ahead of hackers & spammers;it's a fine line balancing defense and usability.

    I know there appears to be a security rule/bot in place on the forum, that if I am searching hard for something,the Forum thinks I'm a Bot and it will shut me down and warn me not to do anymore searches for a couple of minutes.

    Same thing with likes/acknowledgements. There are times when I rip through a ton of content and click like on a bunch of posts, the forum rules script in place,thinks I'm a Bot and shuts me down,tells me I can't do that again for the remainder of the day.

    Docc & Jaap tks for all your efforts to keep this going as safely & securely as possible. :notworthy:

    It must feel like  babysitter job from hell sometimes:homer:

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 2
  22. 42 minutes ago, PJPR01 said:

    Vacuum ports are both connected via hoses, not plugged, so all good there as I had the tank off a few months ago to replace the intake rubbers, do the valve adjustment and ensure the airbox/new filter and all hoses were good and properly connected and snugged up.  Even took the time to sand and paint my battery tray...not that anyone sees it but me!  

     

    I'm not sure I understand what is meant by throttle linkage being indexed?  Can you elaborate a bit? 

     

    My bike had apparently spent it's whole life? 6K kms with the tank vent line T'd  off to the vacuum ports on the TBS,for whatever reason,when I changed the baseline tune up settings,it didn't like it.

    I cleaned out the 2 gas tank vent holes by the cap iirc 6 & 7 o'clock with small wire & eliminated that T and the hoses connecting the TB's,capped the ports off with vacuum caps,eliminating that wildcard completely.

    I'm not sure indexing is the proper term,but the first balance set up I had was perfect, but when I replaced the throttle linkage rod,in order to get it to snap into place smoothly with no right or left movement,the plastic cup on the end of the threaded rod at the right TB had only a couple of threads into that cup,I wasn't comfortable with that.

    I disconnected the whole rod (circlip on left side don't lose it btdt lol) buried the threaded rod completely into the plastic cup on the right side,readjusted the white knob on the left,so when I reattached the threaded rod linkage,I now had lots of threaded rod buried into the plastic cup when it was adjusted to snap into place with no movement on the throttle linkages.

    • Like 1
  23. I just went through this, my bike ran fine, but the air screws had been completely closed & my trim was at -26, I redid the decent basic tuneup with air screws opened one turn,that changed my baseline tune a lot.

    I redid it a few times,because I had to re index the throttle linkage to give me more space on the threaded rod part when I dropped it down into position.

    I changed my trim to +26

    When I finished the tuneup & balance I reattached the existing tank vent T connection to the vacuum ports on the TBs. It ran great,but developed horrible tank suck issues.

    Cured my tank suck rough running issues by removing the T tank vent line,changing it to a straight atmosphere vent, & capped off the vacuum ports on each TB.

    Was your throttle linkage indexed,so it dropped down smooth with no movement?

    What is your trim?

    Are your vacuum ports capped?

    Did you start off by adjusting the valves as a baseline?

     

     

    • Like 1
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