audiomick
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Posts posted by audiomick
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Hope it stays good, mate. And hope you don't get too many unexpected Polaroids.
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Today I did nothing on or to the Guzzi, but something for a Guzzi: paid for it.
A Breva 750 i.e. with less than 10,000 km on the clock, to be precise 9,883 km. . Of those, about 9,500 were ridden before 2013. Effectively one owner. There are two in the papers, but the first was a dealership. It was a "test-ride" bike.
Actually a fairly boring motorcycle in a lot of ways, but I wanted a boring motorcycle to run errands on so that I don't do that on the V11 (or the V35 Imola), and the Breva is also a Guzzi.
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Joe, you're giving me funny ideas again.
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Hi.
I haven't seen the B + S Monitor, but going by the photo I found, yes, I reckon they would fit under a helmet.
Having said that, their site says that the B+S is an end-of-life product. The new one is B+S Monitor II
As far as the mould goes, I got mine done at a Fachkongress of the Verband Deutsche Tonmeister, i.e. something like a trade fair. I also organised the possibilty to have moulds made at a hearing aid shop in relation to a job I did some time ago. The point is, the mould is taken by a professional. I expect that these days practically any hearing-aid specialist shop could do it. You'd have to go asking in your area.
My plugs look like these ones:
They do fit under the helmet with the noise filters in (like the one on the left in the picture), but don't with the in-ear monitor drivers in (like the one on the right...). I couldn't use mine to listen to the navigation device or anything like that.
As far as the different levels of damping goes, that works with mine. The circular white bit in the one on the left is the filter. The ones in mine are Elacin filters, and I believe Hear Safe still uses them. Look at this:
https://elacin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/elacin-b2b-de-productsheet-05-er.pdf
as you can deduce from that, Hear Safe is not the only manufacturer offering moulded ear plugs. In fact, they are just making the moulds and using filters that someone else (Elacin) has developed. I'm very sure that Hear Safe is not the only one on the market (by a very long stretch...) that is doing exactly that. The Elacin filters seem to be in fairly common use as far as I can tell, but I expect there are others with a similar product out there.
I would suggest going to a couple of hearing-aid shops in your area and questioning them a bit. Do some research, whatever way. There is likely to be a supplier closer to you than Germany. Having said that, the German stuff is, of course, very good. It just might be complicated getting the taking of a mould co-ordinated.
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Alles klar, schon verstanden.
A bloke in Australia had a visitor. The Australian bloke did the right thing and showed his visitor around, as one does. The visitor was from Texas.
They went out in to the countryside, and the Australian explained that the farms here were fairly large. The Texan said "oh, right, you should see how big the ranches in Texas are."
The Australian pointed out the cattle, and how well they were adjusted to the environment in Australia. The Texan said "yeah, nice. You should see how big the horns are on our cattle".
And so it went on....
Eventually, they were driving down a back road looking at the landscape and the bush, and a Kangaroo came bounding across their path.
"Goddamm" said the Texan, "what in the hell was that?".
"Oh, " said the Australian, "that's a native mouse".
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1 hour ago, LowRyter said:
I'm saying I'd probably go anywhere else first, even risking have to wash in cold water.
I'm not likely to ever have to make the choice. However, going by that video (what on earth did that brainless girl think she was producing?) I think I would also go anywhere else first. To the extent of walking a mile in these shoes with a canister in my hand to get the fuel from somewhere else.
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3 hours ago, BlackEmperor_Moto said:
Are the flanges on the spacer necessary?
I believe their only purpose is to keep the spacer more or less lined up with the hole in the bearing so you can get the axle in.
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8 minutes ago, docc said:
What does your existing spacer length measure
I believe I have read here that it is supposed to be 113 mm. . Is that correct?
Relevant to me because I expect to be changing the wheel bearings in the rear wheel of my 2002 Le Mans in the very near future. I'd like to be able to check the length of the spacer while I'm at it.
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34 minutes ago, BlackEmperor_Moto said:
also verifying some info - OEM part number is
GU01634000
at Stein-Dinse:
https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/item-2-1021625-01634000-.html
from this parts diagramme:
https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=de&h=MG&m=222&t=5455#a177240
at Wendel:
part no. 6
and a parts list at Guzzitek.org :
https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/V11LM_Nak_RC_Cat_2003_122002_PL.pdf
part no. 6 on page 116
So it looks like your part number is correct.
Incidentally, I didn't put in three links to be a smart-arse, but rather to give an idea where one can go to check on part numbers.
PS: docc beat me to it, but I worked so hard on this I'm posting it anyway...
PPS: I read somewhere about spacers to fill out the missing length on the spacer. Don't know if it was here or somewhere else. That might be an option, if you can figure out how much too short yours is. Apparently a bit too long is not as bad as a bit too short. Having said that, I can imagine that an additional short spacer in there would be an absolute pain to install.
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Today I took the front end off to have a look at the steering head bearings. Not that there were any signs of trouble, but I wanted to see how much grease was in there. Turns out adding a bit more wasn't such a bad idea.
Bright idea of the day (or week, or month...)
obvious really, to hold it in place whilst putting it back together. But I was a bit chuffed that I thought of it in the heat of the moment and all by myself, and how well it worked.
I poked around and looked at a couple of other things as well. All part of getting to know the bike, and being able to contemplate longer trips without worrying too much if the wheels are about to fall off.
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4 hours ago, guzzler said:
$2.05 a litre
That's still cheaper than here. The converts to about € 1.22.
According to here
https://www.benzinpreis.de/preise-deutschland.phtml
we're at €1,88 at the moment. That works out to $ 3.14 AUD.
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8 hours ago, fotoguzzi said:
... 340mm...
Yeah, thought it must have been fairly long. Thanks.
Looks like your mate John did a very good job.
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Thanks docc. I had seen that, but forgotten.
And yes, gorgeous.
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Very nice photo. If you would care to oblige, I'd be interested in knowing focal length, f-stop, exposure time and ISO.
Getting back to motorcycles, after 6 years you pulled a more than 50 year old motorcycle out of the shed, kicked it in the guts, and rode it around the block?
Go on, tell us the full story. I'm curious for one...
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48 minutes ago, guzzler said:
The page wouldn't open
Just tried it myself. It's about 20 past midnight on a Saturday night here. Your answer 45 minutes ago would have been about 11:35 pm here.
I can get to the home page without a bother, but the shop wont open. Given that it is the middle of the night on Saturday night, I reckon they're probably dicking around with the internet shop on the assumption that no-one would be stupid enough to try and access it right now.
If you're really interested, try it again in about 36 hours or so. Not important, though.
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Yes, a truly horrible thought.
Just as an aside, I'm surprised they are allowed to print a photo of the accused. I don't think that would be possible here. It certainly isn't done.
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That'd be these, right?
https://shop.held.de/en/clothes/functional-underwear/1010/infinium-skin?number=022230-00-1-DM6
Interesting. The shop I prefer to buy my stuff at carries that brand almost exclusively. Seems to be good stuff.
The only problem I have with it is the name itself. It actually is the surname of the boss (and probably owner...) of the company. However, it means "hero", and I feel a bit odd running around in bike gear that has "hero" written all over it.
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I found this just now:
Looks like the right size, and "Zentralschmierung" should mean it has a central grease nipple. Hmmm....
I also have a tip for a place that re-conditions drive shafts. That would include balancing.
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6 hours ago, activpop said:
... two pair still available....
I may just get back to you on that. Depends on how I get on here...
When are you back at home?
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8 hours ago, 80CX100 said:
,might consider installing a remote clutch bleeder.
Well done, that man. Wouldn't have thought of that myself. Thanks very much.
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8 minutes ago, LowRyter said:
, it's usually a Yellowtail Shiraz in the bin.
Nothing wrong with that, mate.
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Have one for me too, mate. Shame to let it go to waste when the bottle is open...
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Might be hard to tell what is too much, though. There is a lot of pressure change going on in there even when everything is running absolutely normally.
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Today's programme:
On the way to the garage, I went past a local ironmonger shop and picked up a 14 mm Hex key 1/2" drive socket.
When I got to the garage, I discovered that it didn't fit into the end of the axle.
Closer inspection revealed that some ham-fisted moron had belted the end of the axle so hard with a steel hammer that the socket was deformed inwards, and the head of the axle was deformed outwards so much that it was stuck in the swing arm.
A bit of controlled violence on my part with a copper hammer and a block of wood got it out, hopefully without bending anything. Incidentally, the nut on the other end of the axle was definately no where near 120 NM tightening torque.
Further: one of the wheel bearings is pretty grotty, and both the swingarm bearings. The front uni-joint doesn't feel good. It has a "stop" in the middle in one direction, sort of like what happens to head-stem bearings when they start going west. And the rear shock looks like it is leaking.
On the good side, the front torque arm bolt was nicely greased and looks good as new, and the "hidden" roller bearing in the final drive also looks good.
I was worried about the swing-arm bolts as I took them out; they both felt 'orrible. However, a bit of patience and working the threads back and forth with liberal applications of Ballistol got them cleaned up.
Does anyone happen to know a manufacturer and part number for the uni-joints?
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V11 Ecu diagnostics and reprogramming
in How to...
Posted
Quote from Bernd's documentation on the German forum:
DeepL says:
So, no, it wont.