audiomick

and no audio at all? I don't believe that. Ok, I'm being a bit provocative, but bear with me. The audio is mostly good, and it is obvious from the end result that he is working with a program that can do relatively elegant things with the audio, independant of the video edits. What disturbs me is the wind noise in some segments, and the clicks and jumps in quite a lot of the edits. As far as the wind noise goes, if audio is being recorded at all, particularly outdoors, that should be taken into consideration. Coping with it is not that hard, and not expensive. Sure, one can spend quite lot of money on "audio transparent" wind shields, but one can also achieve very good results with a block of cheap, lightweight foam rubber, or maybe a couple of layers of nylon pantyhose. If nothing has been brought along to cope with that, taping a sock over the microphone would also help. As far as the edits go, as mentioned, he is obviously working with a program that can do a fair bit with the audio. Doing a cross-fade across the edits, or a fade-out and fade-in, should be possible, and would improve the end result considerably.

Yes, he captured that very well.

Incidentally, if one is working outdoors, that is the first thing that one takes care of. Because it is fairly easy to sort out, and makes a huge difference.

From the same site, that might be this one: https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/V11/V11LM_Naked_2001-2002_052013_PL(GB).pdf but, @skibum69, have a look at the list here yourself to be sure. https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/V11/

I beg to differ. Yes, the "right" gear is very, very expensive, and most people don't have it. Making the most out of what you have is, on the other hand, merely a matter of understanding what is causing the problems, and improvising. Like I said: wind protection on the mic, and figuring out how to edit such that there is no click in the audio. What do I know about audio? Only as much as about 40 years as a sound technician teaches one. Whatever, it is great that the man makes the effort to make the videos. My motivation is more to try and give him tips to make it better than to wantonly criticise his work.

Look on this site https://guzzitek.org/ here: https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf

Lots of nice bikes in there, and the scale of the event is really impressing. But... tell your British mate that he should learn a bit about editing videos. The train crash edits get very annoying very quickly. Hard editing the video is "modern", and can be acceptable, but the clicks in the audio at every edit are not. Getting it right isn't hard. Fade out and in, or crossfade. Most editing programs have easy to use functions to achieve that. EDIT: and tell him to find out where the microphone on his recording device is, and stick a bit of foam rubber over the hole. Getting rid of the wind noise is not that hard either.

Good plan.

That brings to mind the Ford Falcon GTHO Phase III. For the uninitiated, that was an homologation special based on a four door family car in the early '70s to race in a particular touring car class in Australia. Even though I'm more on the Holden side of the Ford-Holden debate, I have to admit it was a very, very interesting car. There was some special stuff on them, but nothing that couldn't be sourced after-market after a few years. The point is, sometime in the late '80s or early '90s I heard that there were substantially more of them currently registered than were ever produced. This is one, althought the yellow colour was not that commion, I think. I always think of them as white (with the stripes), or maybe red. By Sicnag - 1972 Ford Falcon XY GTHO Sedan, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=40645949

Well, I'm not jealous. Not at all. Really. Weellll, maybe a tiny bit... One thing though: why is the Roper Plate hanging on the wall instead of doing it's thing in a bike? Ok, mine is not installed yet either, but I don't have a workshop like that for myself alone, and I still go to work for a living.

Yes. The safety margin is that, as I wrote, the bolt wont fit between two teeth, and I also ground off the end of the bolt so it is dead flat, no taper in to the thread. So even if just the very edge of the bolt is on top of a tooth, it should still take a good measurement. But that is just the safety margin. I made sure that a tooth was in the middle, and am quite sure my bolt was hitting it squarely.

I didn't worry about TDC, but did have a look at where the teeth on the wheel were, i.e. a tooth there where the bolt in the tool was landing. On top of that, I had a good look at whether the M5 bolt that I was using in "my" tool to measure the distance would fit in between two teeth on the the wheel. It wont. I took a measurement, and went in with the vernier caliper to check plausibility. Then put the bike in 2nd gear and bumped the motor a bit. Took another measurement, and came up with the same result. I'm pretty sure that the measurement is solid.

Yeah, I think it has a bit of a bulge. I have a replacement, so I will most likely just replace it. Might test it, but the power in the garage is photovoltaic, and doesn't have enough bumps (German word...) to power the hot air blower. Maybe I'll have a look at it at home in the kitchen when the girlfriend is at work.

Indeed. @swooshdave , please keep us posted on what you find.

Tom, that is very pretty, but I don't have the machines to make something like that. Fortunately, one of the blokes that shares the garage with me bought a drill press a while back. With that, I can drill holes in bits of metal that go really straight through. The rest of it was done with hand tools. I also liked the idea of a tool that can be screwed on to where the sensor sits. A bit of a fiddle to get it on and off, but security that it is really sitting where the measurement is to be made. Whatever, I'm happy with the result. Others have "better" tools for the job, but mine does it well too.

A brief excurse back to the V11: today I made a tool. On the way home it occurred to me that I now know what I wanted to measure, and may well never need the tool again. Still, making it and seeing that the idea worked was satisfying. Anyway, this is it: Using that, and cross-checking for plausibility with the vernier caliper, which can do depth measurements, I was able to establish that the old timing sensor is more or less the same length as the new one, i.e. 30 mm. The distance from the seating surface to the toothed wheel is 29 mm, and the sensor had two 1mm shims fitted. So the gap was 1mm (verified by holding the sensor against the tool and sticking a feeler gauge in between). That is, according to what someone further up quoted from the good book, within spec. Nevertheless, I'll try and get a 0.7mm shim to get it down to around 0.7mm. PS: I was a little disappointed. I had kind of hoped that the sensort would be deformed and the gap far too much. That would have offered an explanation (maybe) for the poor running.

Why not? If you can deal with Guzzi electrics, reading music should be easy as pie.

Well, you may find it hard to believe, but Zappa was always radical, adventurous, experimental, brilliant, but strictly tonal. If you want atonal, try this. And that is not his most radical piece. : There are also things like this And Schönberg was a pioneer, but he was not alone.

I beg to differ. The "rules" of western tonal music adhere to strict rules that are based in physics. Believe me, I have a Bachelor degree in music with a focus on 20th century music. Quite apart from that, it seems to me a paradox that the U.S.A. staged an heroic revolution to release themselves from the yoke of british imperialism, but didn't go the whole 9.144 metres and adopt the much more logical and sensible system that was proposed in France about a century earlier, and finalised about the same time as the revolution. PS: Australia is still nominally a "British Colony", but the sensible system of measurement was adopted about the end of the '60s, when I was about 7 years old.

Well, yes, as well. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metre_(music)

Yes, I understood that. But what about sensible units, you know, millimetres and so on. Yes, I'm too lazy to look it up...