audiomick

Probably not relevant for me, but tell us what happens. Do it tomorrow. I'm curious.

Don't know for sure (I don't know anything about tyres... ), but there is the thing with the silicon shit that they use to make releasing the tyre from the mould easy, and oxidation on the unused surface could also be an issue.

Difficult if it has been modiified, unless the mod is absolutely invisible. The powers that be are quite allergic to mods on frames, over and above maybe removing a tag for something that isn't mounted any more, or shortening the rails behind the rear shock mount on a Tonti frame. If they were to get wind of a headstock mod, they'd have kittens for sure.

I've got Servus TV on the Astra Satellite that provides our TV reception. I think it is the same program as in Austria, but don't know for sure. I don't watch it much. Too much sport...

You do that from the "settings" menu before you connect. I'm not absolutely sure, but I think my 2002 Le Mans comes up with that Once again not absolutely sure, but I think it does. I.e. you tell it what to expect, and then it checks to make sure. But I could be wrong there. What I'm sure about is that it shows you the version number of the map that is actually installed in that box. If, however, the map has been changed and the name of the file hasn't, that could perhaps lead to confusion. EDIT: if anyone desperately wants to know for sure, I could ask Bernd directly on the German forum.

Aahhh, that's why the tyre on that Ducati looks like it does...

Based in Austria, and owned by Red Bull. In case anyone is interested.

Smarty pants. Avon is another one who states "recommended rim width" and such. For instance here (not a recommendation for the tyre, just for the information!!). The 160/60 17 is listed with 4.5" as the recommended rim. (scroll down to the bottom half of the page to see the table...) https://www.avontyres.com/de-de/reifen/3d-supersport?searchtype=tire&cartype=motorcycle

They're getting wider the older I get... I've often considered doing that. Good to see someone else mention it. Maybe I'll give it a go.

I haven't seen Phil's solution, but what he describes is a common mod, not only for V11s. Often the purpose is simply to reduce the load on the lighting switch etc. . In the case of the V11, the function of the regulator is also involved. Leave everything as it is, EXCEPT the wire that in the original wiring supplies current to the lights is pulled off the light socket and used instead to switch an additional relay. This relay in turn supplies current direct from the battery to the lights in place of the wire you pulled off to switch the relay. Don't forget to put a fuse in somewhere along the way. As Phil already pointed out, this means that the original wiring for the lights is no longer loaded down by the drain from the lights, but rather is only switching the new relay. Given that the circuit is no longer loaded down to any great extent, the regulator sees much closer to battery voltage at the point in the lighting circuit where it is measuring, and accordingly regulates the charging current much closer to what it should ideally be. Additional advantages include that the working current for the lights is no longer going throught the light switch, which makes the switche's life a lot easier.

Not much. There is a hose that attaches to the top of the frame just behind the steering head and vents into the airbox, so the whole breather system is open to the outside in the end. There are surges in there no doubt, but I can't imagine that the absolute pressure in the system is at any time all that far away from ambient atmospheric pressure.

I did mine a couple of months ago. Actually changing the hose is in fact not that hard. A bit of a fiddle due to the bends near the ends, but not hard. You just can't see what you're doing all that well. The tedious part is dismantling the bike far enough to get to the hose. @cowtownchemist you have your tank off already, so the worst of it is done. Getting to that stage on a Le Mans also means having the fairing off. If I remember rightly, it is also a help to take the airbox out. So, as mentioned, actually changing the hose isn't really the problem, but rather the buggerising around to get to the point where you can access the hose.

That looks like the bike described here. According to the text there, that would have been a Cagiva Elefant in other markets than the US. https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/ducati/ducati_elefant_900c 94.html EDIT: here, from the same site. Looks to be the same bike, but painted and labelled as a Cagiva. https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/cagiva/cagiva_elefant_900c 94.htm

Have a look in the Gallery at Phil's gallery. There are a number of pictures of the bike there with those wheels on. The wheels alone: EDIT: PS: don't get your hopes up. I went looking after Phil got his wheels, and have the distinct impression that he might have got a hold of one of the last sets available.

I'll take the liberty of linking to a video that Paul Minnaert linked to in the german forum. It is a screen-video showing Guzzidiag running on a Breva 750, i.e. a 15RC ECU. Paul wrote that it goes into closed loop at 3:14. I have to say, I can't see the exact moment, but a bit after 3:00 one can see the temperature approaching 60° C, and that the Lambda integrator and Lambda values change. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUOtoYCifN4 As I understand it, from the 15 RC on, that is how the system behaves. 15M and before (without a Lambda sensor), as already mentioned, don't have an open loop/ closed loop function.

Supposed to be 0,6 mm according to the workshop book. Page 9 here: https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/V35V50V65_041983_Atelier(GB).pdf Is that what you had them set to?

Is balance not an issue?

According to the workshop manual, it should be PHBH 30. Page 30 https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/V35V50V65_041983_Atelier(GB).pdf

Or better yet, here: https://gpiu.de/forum/ That is a German language forum run by Martin Hagemann. This is his home page https://gpiu.de/ Martin is the recognised expert for the "small block" Guzzis in Germany. His English is not brilliant, but there have been a couple of queries in English on the forum, and he manages. And I look in there pretty much every day, so if there are problems in translation, I could help.

I've started thinking about the carburettors. Did you have them off completely when you changed the head gaskets? I could imagine it might be possible to take the heads off without removing the carburettors, but it would be more trouble than it is worth, I think. So: the carburettors were most likely shaken up a bit, and maybe lay on the bench for a while on their sides or something. Maybe some gunk out of the float bowls found its way into a passage somewhere, or maybe the needle valves aren't closing properly anymore (because of gunk on the seat...). Are you absolutely sure that the throttle cables and choke cables are correctly connected, have enough play in them, and operate correctly? Incidentally, how do the seals on the choke pistons look? I can't see them causing your problem, but they get old and don't seal properly. I've even had one instance where the choke piston were out, and didn't seal properly when they went back in, even though the rubber disks that make the seal were not all that bad. Havin said that, when the chokes aren't sealing right you tend to have problems getting a stable idle rather than the bike not starting at all. Going by your description, I'd more likely suspect the needle valves not sealing properly and therefore the carbs flooding, or something in that direction. EDIT: don't forget to check the filter behind the banjo fitting that the fuel line is connected to. They clog up sometimes, but once again, I would expect bad running and not revving out properly more than not starting at all.

Yeah, you need room for the shoes, don't you...

Yes.

What sort of a maniac rides a thing like that through the bush? Oh, wait, he's Australian....