audiomick

This one, probably: https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/anlasserabdeckung-carbon-fuer-moto-guzzi-v11/3092075570-306-4094 This is the text in the ad: Contact to the seller: the button "Nachricht schreiben".

That is the first thing I would do. Someone else has been buggerising around with it, and you have no way of knowing if it all makes sense. The best thing to do is go back to the base-line, and make your own decisions from there. Also, please read what @pete roper recently wrote on the subject. I reckon it might be relevant for you too. PS: I didn't see you mention the motor position sensor. I have very reliable advise that it only a matter of time before they fail. My V11 Le Mans runs very badly between 2 and 3,000 r.p.m, and that sensor is what I'll be looking at next. No idea if that is logical, but I'm pretty sure the issue has nothing to do with the fuelling, but rather with the spark management somehow.

I like the bird.

Ah, that is a relief. I thought I might have been missing something. I was in my garage this afternoon, and looked for those connectors. My 2002 Le Mans doesn't have them.

Do you mean that as a general statement, or that you can't find a business that does it? The reason I ask is because an internet search here (in German) turns up several hits for companies like this one https://www.bar-tek.com/injector-service-normal-manifold They seem to be mostly aimed at car owners, but an injector is an injector, regardless of what vehicle it is mounted in (apart from whether it is a diesel or a petrol motor). EDIT: having read the text on that site, maybe they are only offering that which @Lucky Phil describes. Still, I'd not be disinclined to have a "professional" who has experience and is set up to do the work check the flow rates and spray pattern.

Hmm, there's some weird bollocks happening there. I land on a page with no info, and the "why TLM" text. Possibly because "the internet" sees that I am in a non-english speaking country, but who knows. Whatever, if it works for the rest of the users here, don't mind me. I don't need a new bevel box. At the moment. I think.

Errr, Pete, that link takes me to somewhere on the TLM site, and no bevel boxes to be seen. I have the impression, that is not what you intended.

I might be interested in one of them too.

Austrian, it seems. And you left out an "h". https://www.wehrle-electronics.com/?LNG=en This seems to be the closest thing to the one pictured above. Maybe a subsequent model. Unfortunately, they don't seem to provide data sheets on their site. https://www.wehrle-electronics.com/en/products/switching-relays/micro-relays/micro-relay-12v/ EDIT: I think it is worth mentioning again, that one should also pay attention to the physical size of a potential replacement relay. A while back, I did a bit of research on the topic, and discovered that they can vary in height by as much as 5 mm. . There is not much clearance between the relays and the seat. If I recall rightly, mine shows some signs of contact between the top of one of the relays and the bottom of the seat, so a relay that is higher than the ones that are in there would not be so good.

As far as I understand it, whatever the vehicle, after the petcock comes the carburettor. If there is fuel finding its way into the motor, it is not because the petcock is faulty, but rather because the carb is letting it through. Generally because the needle valve is not shutting off properly, I gather, as @Lucky Phil mentioned a couple of posts up. I reckon a visual inspection of them isn't enough to say they are ok. You don't need much wear on a sealing surface that is supposed to hold back fuel for it to not seal. Also, as far as the bike running like crap goes, if the needle valves are not sealing properly, you may have a too high fuel level in the float bowls, which can cause the bike to run rich.

Sorry, mate, that was a typo. I was interested in knowing if you can get the seat off with the rack like that.

That looks good. Just for the sake of curiosity, can you still get the set off with it like that? I'm thinking ahead to when I, one day in the distant future, get around to mounting my Hepco Becker rack on my V11, and wondering if something similar can be done with that.

Speaking for myself, I'm not offended as such, but am keen to counter what appears to be a deliberate slur campaign against Guzzidiag. I've heard and reads dozens and dozens of good reports about GuzziDiag, and encountered only that one source that was canning it. That annoys me, as it seems to be deliberate, contemplated and serving only his commercial interests. To do that, you also need to swap the wires that "fire" the coil, so you get the spark at the correct time for the other cylinder. The idea is, however, fundamentally correct and sound. If you do that and the misfire moves to the other cylinder, you know it is being caused by either coil, HT lead or plug cap. If the misfire stays where it is, you know for sure that none of the abovementioned components are causing it.

Yes. Better that way.

I've got a lift not unlike the one in that system. https://www.louis.de/artikel/scherenheber-mit-adaptern/10003265?filter_article_number=30000336 It doesn't come with the "wheel around" part, though. Although I can see the advantage in such a dolly, I have to admit I would be a bit nervous about using one. Over and above the fact that the floor in my workshop is in shit condition, and probably wouldn't allow the use of such a dolly. The lift is really useful, though. The Becker lifter* under the bike to get the back wheel up, and that lift under the motor to raise the front end, and one can do pretty much any maintanence task. * the Becker lift has been mentioned here before. This: https://shop.becker-technik.de/products/central-lifter-24

Pete, thanks once again for your expert opinion. Nice to have my own thoughts confirmed. One thing though, here: The programs themselves don't do any damage. What, however, is really important is making sure both the computer and the bike don't run out of volts during the transfer. In Bernd's opinion (Beard, GuzziDiag author), it is highly unlikely that anything would go wrong if the readout process were to be interrupted. A very unlikely possibility remains. The writer process, on the other hand, dare not be interrupted. Make absolutely sure that both the computer and the bike have a solid voltage supply that is not going to go flat in the middle of the process. Ideally the computer on its mains power supply and the bike battery on a charger or similar. This advice is, incidentally, included in the instructions for using those programs. Having said that, that is not a characteristic or "weakness" peculiar to the IAW writer. It is a general rule that applies anywhere in the computer world, wherever data is being written to some form of storage. For the same reason, windows has that icon in the task bar to log out a usb stick before you remove it from the computer. If you pull it out halfway through a write, it might get bricked.

And another thing. I realise I am harping on the subject a bit, but I think I'm a little annoyed. Anyway... GuzziDiag came into being through the German forum that I am active in. There is an entire board there dedicated to the topic. On that board, there are currently 590 threads, a total of 6997 posts. Admittedly, I haven't read every single post, but I have at least skimmed quite a lot of that. It interests me. There are a lot about "having trouble connecting", quite often due to not having read the instructions properly, a lot of "can it do xxx yet?", to which the answer is generally "we're working on it", and quite a lot of creative input on the further developement of the program. What I cannot recall ever having seen is a post saying "I connected Guzzidiag, and it bricked my ECU". Or that connecting Guzzidiag caused any problems whatsoever that weren't there before. And remember (WARNING: potentially predjudiced comment!!!) I'm talking about a German forum. The rule is: complain first, then get irate and bluster and rant a lot, and then listen to the explanation. Maybe. And then explain at great length, several times, why the explanation can't possibly be right, and that there is no possible way that one could concievably have stuffed things up oneself. The point is, if Guzzidiag were prone to bricking ECUs, I'm pretty sure I would have noticed. PS: and given that I am an Admin on that forum, I can assure interested readers that "negative press" regarding GuzziDiag definitely does not get "censored". There is too much interest there in having the program work properly for that sort of bullshit.

The one of them that I rode was red, and it was faster. EDIT: ok, the one I rode might have been an ST2. It was a long time ago and I don't really remember, but it was red, and it was definitely faster.

Since I had never heard of them, I went looking. Didn't spend too much time on it, but I came up with this. I found this thread: https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/v7-v85tt-9-e4-e5-diag-tool-info.25192/ apparently discussing a diagnostic device that can be purchased from here: https://gtmotocycles.com/ and what did I find down at the bottom of that page? A link back to the Guzzitech forum. Forgive me for getting the feeling that they are shit-canning a good program, GuzziDiag, developed and made available for free by a handful of intelligent, competent and engaged individuals, to "protect" their own commercial interests. I don't know how I could come up with that idea.

Nobody was born with that knowledge and experience. Everyone learned it somewhere. I'd rather like to know who wrote that, and what his background, training and experience is. As it happens, I've met and talked to the bloke who wrote GuzziDiag several times. I have faith in his work. He is definitely not an idiot, and is a professional programmer. All that GuzziDiag does is read out the information that the ECU is receiving, nothing more. IAW reader reads out the map in the ECU. IAW writer writes a map into the ECU, which, if the new map is dickey, or the process is interrupted (flat battery or whatever) could cause problems.

Neither do I. However, @pete roper did mention the possibility that maybe a tooth could break off due to heat damage caused by the lack of oil. That made me re-think the whole situation.

Would be if there were, but there isn't. Red is 10% faster. Scientifically proven.

For the sake of completeness, again, yes, it is in quite good condition. The one screw hole, the last one towards the rider that holds the screen on, is broken out. That could probably be repaired by plastic welding that bit from the broken fairing in, or just be ignored. A plastic weld would likely mean re-painting, or at least a touch-up. Ignoring the defect would avoid a re-paint. Also, there appeared to be three very fine scratches on the front end. Maybe one could polish them out. All in all, considering that fairing parts for the Le Mans models are a bit rarer than hen's teeth, I think it was a reasonable buy.

I dare say they are hatter's tools, but don't ask me what the do.

Looking forward to you thoughts. HMB enjoys a very good reputation in the German Guzzi community. I'm interested to hear what you think of their tensioner.