audiomick

That would be "Sachse", I think. Has a good reputation in Germany. https://www.elektronik-sachse.de/shopsystem-3/en/Digital-Ignition-Systems/ EDIT: just so it doesn't look like I'm advertising, I have a Silent Hektik ignition and alternator in my V35 Imola, and am absolutely happy with it. Sachse has its fans, but I'm not converting. https://www.silent-hektik.de/

Yes, but not neccesarily on a cylinder head. They're too expensive and rare to practice on.

You mean you didn't look at the exhaust pipes first?

Not standard (picture from Moto Guzzi) Moto Guzzi has an accessory along those lines. I can't tell from the photo if @Tomchri has it, or something else.

As I indicated further up, I don't know. If there are no brushes, my thoughts further up don't count. Even so, it still looks, to me, like the alternator is failing at higher revs. It might even be something like a dodgy connection that succumbs to the vibrations at higher revs. I had that once with a spark plug connector that wasn't seated properly.

Yes. I just now did some looking, and stumbled across a post in a German forum from someone I know personally who knows what he is talking about. According to him, 80V is to be expected at (I think, I've closed the tab...) about 6,000 r.p.m. . 80V for sure, revs, lots at least.

Absolutely correct, but... If there were a problem there, I would expect the charging system to deliver false values across the board. I've had that, due to bad regulators, with a couple of bikes. They overcharged, and cooked the batteries. The business with "over 4,000 revs" leads me to believe that it is not the regulator (apparently was bad = cooked brand new battery, but has been replaced), but rather that the alternator is, for whatever reason, failing to deliver at higher engine revolutions.

@Sam P wrote which seems to confirm that the manual states specific r.p.m values for the voltages and before that From Sam's post, I assume the light does go back off when the revs drop, but confirmation would be good. It would also be interesting to know if the 60V at 3,000 rpm drops off when the revs go up to 4,000 and higher.

I see two issues there. The first one, overcharging, is generally the regulator, and you have addressed that according to what you wrote. The second one sounds like an issue I had with my V35 Imola. I only noticed it when I rode in the dark for the first time in a while, and what I noticed was that the charge warning light was coming on a bit with increasing revs. I don't know for sure that this transfers to the alternator on the V11, but I reckon it probably does. The alternator in the V35 was a Bosch. My research turned up the following causes: The brushes are worn. The surface that the brushes contact with on the rotor is out of round, causing the brushes to float at higher revs The springs that hold the brushes in contact have gotten weak, allowing the brushes to float at higher revs. Generally a combination of all of the above, particular the second and third mentioned. As I wrote, I don't know for sure that that will help, but I hope it does. PS: regarding this I would assume that the tech knows his company's products, and don't assume that such a tech would automatically bullshit a customer. It's an aftermarket part, and most likely they have built a "high performance" stator, i.e. one that delivers a bit more than the standard part. The alternator in my V35 Imola is just such a beast, bought to solve the above mentioned problem. Not because it was the only, or cheapest, solution. I just wanted to have that one. It, in combination with the regulator from the supplier (Silent Hektik) starts charging at lower revs and delivers more Watts than the standard Bosch in the V35.

Gee, that almost looks like a motorcycle. Or that it might become one someday. Very good that man, carry on. EDIT: what forks are those?

If you don't have one, look here. Page 91 https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1200/Stelvio1200NTX_MY2011_062011_Atelier(GB).pdf If that's not the right model, look here to see if you can find yours. https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1200/

Do you know what model it came from? That might help in analysing the problem.

And the Le Mans has a very chic fairing.

The Coppa, or the Le Mans? I assume the Coppa, but one never knows.

That's the first place I'd look. Luigi doesn't use electrical tape. Someone has been buggerising around in there. Take off the tape, and see what is inside. Apart from possible defects in there, leaving electrical tape on for more than a couple of weeks is not good. The adhesive deteriorates, and you are left with peeling off tape and a smeary, sticky mess underneath.

The bike is fairly pretty, but the bloke sounds like he ate the Sales Brochure for breakfast.

That's like the ritual with the ticket in the parking garage. If you don't hold it between your teeth on the way to the exit, the boom-gate wont open.

Reminds me of some parts of Australia. Where I grew up is irrigated, some orchards and some dairy cattle. That is in Northern Victoria. Further up, in Central and Northern New South Wales there is cotton, and I believe rice. One of the most water-intensive crops being cultivated in one of the driest countries. That makes sense, doesn't it...

@Speedfrog my thoughts exactly.

There was a race series in Australia for a short time in the late eighties. The bikes were Suzuki GSX 125, and the riders were about half-and-half professional racers and motorcycles journalists. In an article about that, that trick was mentioned. I believe it was more the pros that knew it: streamline the opponent, and when you slip out to pass, hit the kill-switch on the way past. I never did it like that, but doing it to a mate as the traffic light turned green was occasionally good for a laugh. Ok, so I'm a nasty prick, but it was fun at the time.

I haven't lost many. I can only clearly remember one. It was one of the four that hold on the front mudgaurd on the Breva 750. I would have thought that it wasn't that important, but it was M8x25mm, a bit too big for just holding on a bit of plastic. I guess there is a fork-brace integrated into the mudgaurd. So probably important.

I had one occasion with the V35 Imola where it definitely helped. Something wasn't quite right. The mechanic's advise was to loosen it all off, do it back up in the order "axle, bounce, clamps", and that sorted out the problem. I see the point made by @Pressureangle, though. Fairly fat USD forks are no doubt much less likely to have that sort of issue than the 35mm conventional forks on the Imola.

That's where Dorothy came from, isn't it? Maybe he's a friend of hers.

Hi Kuni0, my guess is that the fuse is doing exactly what it is designed to do, and you've got a short circuit somewhere. Not a bad ground, much more likely a wire that carries 12V with damaged insulation, or something like that. This indicates strongly that the problem is under the tank. Start looking there, and you're looking for a spot where the tank sits on or rubs against the wiring loom, quite likely where the loom is pinched between the tank and the frame.

And both of you failed to mention the bit about bouncing the forks a couple of times before you do the pinch bolts up. If you can do that without using the brakes to help, better still. The point is to work it a couple of times to make sure the forks are really sitting where they want to be.