FreyZI

I looked into this for the kid that doesn't want contacts. Not as expensive as I'd imagined; they can be had for ~$120 for a TUSA. I'm sure one could spend many times that for higher end stuff.

Thanks for the posts. Hawai'i would be wonderful, but this trip has to be closer, quicker, and cheaper. Looks like it will be Coz. One of the kids wears glasses, not contacts, yet, and no desire to wear contacts. Any of yinz nearsighted? Because of magnification, he might be okay without any correction.

Many thanks, @p6x! Before and after pics of the Kangol (before pic itself was after removal of Green Bay Packers patch and attempted but failed supergluing of larger patch). Cheers, Frey

Coz was great -- hopefully still is. I got certified there 25 years ago and went back several times in the noughties. It is my default at the moment. Same dive shop is still operating.

The interweb is a sketchy place to find information. Whether you all are a trustworthy lot is another question, but you haven't led me astray, yet... Before I had children, I dove as often as I could (from Colorado). Kids impaired travel time, budget, and destination choices. Now -- finally -- looking into a family scuba (certification) trip. Any ideas? @p6x, you must be a diver. Places you all like in the Caribbean (reasonably accessible from the northeast US). Trusted dive operators? Cheers, Frey

Happy news! The snake oil worked. In this case, VP Fix-it-fuel. Running reasonably slick. She sure does like to be good and warmed up.

The G5 isn't running real well at the moment. Cleaned spark plugs and treated to same snake oil fuel today. She runs pretty good with the choke on, but backfires and sputters with choke off. Soon as she's running well, goes on the sale block. Takes up too much space and just too many other bikes to ride. At the moment, she serves well as a foot rest.

M22 pins pivot side OD is 17mm. M20s must be the same. As long as you have the right size pins for your side plates/pork chops/stilettos, they are fully swappable.

I definitely need one (for my green Kangol), but I'd take another, particularly if it helps make the numbers work out for the order of 50.

Could there actually be three sizes of "pins": M20, M22, and M24? For those concerned about the excessive weight of the pins, I put the pair of M22 pins on the scale: 191 grams (about 6.75 ounces).

I dealt with the two different sizes when I swapped the side plates/pork chops/stilettos a couple years ago. I measured both swing arm pivots with a digital caliper at 19.9 mm and 21.8 mm. These numbers relate to the outside diameter of the threads. I would call them M20 and M22, respectively.

Here's a link to the discussion on the two different sizes: And here's a pick of my spare M22 pivots up against the size/thread checker. It's a very fine thread.

Tenni in Florida. https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2002-Moto+Guzzi-V11-5031316151 Asking $9,750. Interestingly, the same bike was listed on the same site at $8,250 a few days earlier.

I have Antigravity batteries on my R1200R and F800GS. I believe ATX-12 with Re-start, at least on the R12. Probably been about five years now. I accidentally left the headlamp of the R12 on for a bit and then came back to a dead battery. Replaced with the Antigravity and have not had any problem with. As I've been riding the V11s and the F800 considerably more, the R12 may go months without a ride, but it always fires right up, despite the fact that I've never put it on a charger. I was impressed enough with the Antigravity in the R12 that I put one in the F8, wanting to shave some weight for the NEBDR (with camping gear) a couple summers ago. Similar treatment -- never charged -- and never had any problem. I did have an unsettling moment -- thinking I had a dead battery -- when the F8 barely turned over one morning. It was cold enough to frost over the windshield. Then I remembered that the lithium batteries like to be warmed up; cranked it again, and it fired up. So, never been let down by the Antigravity. As I don't imagine I'll be doing much riding in significantly sub-freezing temps, the cold start thing isn't a major concern. I did do a half hour ride in 22F on a V11 last winter, prompting me to consider heated grips and to purchase 7V gloves (with which I'm not impressed). I haven't yet put a lithium battery in the V11s. My riding skill (or lack thereof) doesn't demand that I shave a few pounds off a street bike. If memory serves me, there was some discussion on this -- the motha of all v11 forums -- about weak batteries resulting in some potential problem. I wonder if there is any concern that a "cold" lithium battery's initial feeble cranking might produce a similar problem. I suppose that would be easily obviated by warming the battery with the headlamp before trying to crank over, if one were smart enough to manage that.

One of the reasons I bought Bubbles-the-parts-bike is that she came with the H&B complete rack and a set of H&B Junior 30 side cases. Turned out those cases had absorbed one or more low-sides, had significant dents were missing their "special" waterproof seal, \ and the locking hardware had seen better days. Initially, I thought I might be able to make them serviceable, but I highly doubt it. As far as security goes, I can't imagine it would take more than a couple seconds and a knife or screwdriver to get into them. I can't imagine spending $500-600 to replace with new Junior 30s or Junior 40. Seeeew, has anyone had good luck combining any other hard side cases with the H&B rack? I have imagined using Pelican or Apache cases, inexpensive aluminum cases (i.e., Tusk V2 large), and simply adding some mounting hardware (to include a bottom rail and some u-bolts on top with acorn nuts inside, or cutting out the mounting parts of the existing shot Junior 30 and attaching those to something else. I know the H&B Explorer line should work with the complete rack, but I'm trying to keep cost to an absolute minimum. Welcome advice. Cheers, Frey