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FreyZI

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FreyZI last won the day on August 10 2022

FreyZI had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Happy Valley (PA, USA)
  • My bike(s)
    Tenni (woo-hoo); V1000 G5, BMW R1200R, BMW F800GS, BMW K100 (brat project); WR450F

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  1. Happy news! The snake oil worked. In this case, VP Fix-it-fuel. Running reasonably slick. She sure does like to be good and warmed up.
  2. The G5 isn't running real well at the moment. Cleaned spark plugs and treated to same snake oil fuel today. She runs pretty good with the choke on, but backfires and sputters with choke off. Soon as she's running well, goes on the sale block. Takes up too much space and just too many other bikes to ride. At the moment, she serves well as a foot rest.
  3. M22 pins pivot side OD is 17mm. M20s must be the same. As long as you have the right size pins for your side plates/pork chops/stilettos, they are fully swappable.
  4. I definitely need one (for my green Kangol), but I'd take another, particularly if it helps make the numbers work out for the order of 50.
  5. Could there actually be three sizes of "pins": M20, M22, and M24? For those concerned about the excessive weight of the pins, I put the pair of M22 pins on the scale: 191 grams (about 6.75 ounces).
  6. I dealt with the two different sizes when I swapped the side plates/pork chops/stilettos a couple years ago. I measured both swing arm pivots with a digital caliper at 19.9 mm and 21.8 mm. These numbers relate to the outside diameter of the threads. I would call them M20 and M22, respectively.
  7. Here's a link to the discussion on the two different sizes: And here's a pick of my spare M22 pivots up against the size/thread checker. It's a very fine thread.
  8. Tenni in Florida. https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2002-Moto+Guzzi-V11-5031316151 Asking $9,750. Interestingly, the same bike was listed on the same site at $8,250 a few days earlier.
  9. I have Antigravity batteries on my R1200R and F800GS. I believe ATX-12 with Re-start, at least on the R12. Probably been about five years now. I accidentally left the headlamp of the R12 on for a bit and then came back to a dead battery. Replaced with the Antigravity and have not had any problem with. As I've been riding the V11s and the F800 considerably more, the R12 may go months without a ride, but it always fires right up, despite the fact that I've never put it on a charger. I was impressed enough with the Antigravity in the R12 that I put one in the F8, wanting to shave some weight for the NEBDR (with camping gear) a couple summers ago. Similar treatment -- never charged -- and never had any problem. I did have an unsettling moment -- thinking I had a dead battery -- when the F8 barely turned over one morning. It was cold enough to frost over the windshield. Then I remembered that the lithium batteries like to be warmed up; cranked it again, and it fired up. So, never been let down by the Antigravity. As I don't imagine I'll be doing much riding in significantly sub-freezing temps, the cold start thing isn't a major concern. I did do a half hour ride in 22F on a V11 last winter, prompting me to consider heated grips and to purchase 7V gloves (with which I'm not impressed). I haven't yet put a lithium battery in the V11s. My riding skill (or lack thereof) doesn't demand that I shave a few pounds off a street bike. If memory serves me, there was some discussion on this -- the motha of all v11 forums -- about weak batteries resulting in some potential problem. I wonder if there is any concern that a "cold" lithium battery's initial feeble cranking might produce a similar problem. I suppose that would be easily obviated by warming the battery with the headlamp before trying to crank over, if one were smart enough to manage that.
  10. One of the reasons I bought Bubbles-the-parts-bike is that she came with the H&B complete rack and a set of H&B Junior 30 side cases. Turned out those cases had absorbed one or more low-sides, had significant dents were missing their "special" waterproof seal, \ and the locking hardware had seen better days. Initially, I thought I might be able to make them serviceable, but I highly doubt it. As far as security goes, I can't imagine it would take more than a couple seconds and a knife or screwdriver to get into them. I can't imagine spending $500-600 to replace with new Junior 30s or Junior 40. Seeeew, has anyone had good luck combining any other hard side cases with the H&B rack? I have imagined using Pelican or Apache cases, inexpensive aluminum cases (i.e., Tusk V2 large), and simply adding some mounting hardware (to include a bottom rail and some u-bolts on top with acorn nuts inside, or cutting out the mounting parts of the existing shot Junior 30 and attaching those to something else. I know the H&B Explorer line should work with the complete rack, but I'm trying to keep cost to an absolute minimum. Welcome advice. Cheers, Frey
  11. Thread drift killer; O.P. says: Problem solved. After hose job last week, did valve job yesterday (a little tight, intake closer to American setting and exhaust gaps were no bigger). Changed to closer to "world spec". Actually seems quieter/smoother now. Topped off engine and transmission oil and got out for a ride today. Kept it a little less spirited to test. All good. Enjoyed greatly! Thanks, again, to all who post on the forum.
  12. Sadly, my kids and I usually start school about two weeks prior to the Raid. May have to be retired or get fired (order not necessarily reflective of preference) before I can make it down there in early September.
  13. Thanks to all for the expert guidance . After hours of cleaning this (sorry -- don't know why it is 90 degrees CW): the law of diminishing returns kicked in and I put it back together. Definitely used a few muscles I ordinarily don't getting hoses reattached. Running, but figure I'll do a valve check, new gaskets, and an oil change before taking it for a test. Meanwhile, as I was fiddling with the hose from the bottom side of the fuel tank (that's a PITA) -- specifically, running it down to a spot behind the exhaust crossover -- I realized that I don't have the exhaust hanger, the one called a U-bolt, GU01123830. Can't imagine how I lost that, but will definitely use lock nuts next time (though I believe I did when I worked on the back end a couple years ago) . Trouble shooting the WR450F no start this afternoon, with fellows and . Happy Saint Patrick's Day!
  14. Started into this project today. Looks like the recent blowout only added to years of oily gunk in there. One benefit to having the frame caked in an oily mess is no rust. Tank off, fairing off, air box off, breather hose off. Here's what it looks like: Other end has similar, if slightly smaller cracks. I was expecting bigger. What kind of pressure does this hose carry? One thing of interest (to me), the hose was installed upside down (i.e., as shown in the photo). As a result, the hose was pressed against the farthest aft fin of the voltage regulator. I suspected there might be a hole at that spot, but looks like just a bit of an indentation there. Tomorrow begins deep cleaning.
  15. You can put me down for one. No problem waiting for a critical mass of takers.
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