audiomick

What? Never heard of that...

A way to check that which I have often seen mentioned is to spray brake cleaner around the site of the suspected leak with the bike at idle. If the idle speed goes up briefly after spraying, you've probably got a leak.

Which is all the more reason to use Guzzidiag to set the idle speed.

Yes, I know. For a long time I was dead set on getting an 1100 Katana, but unfortunately nothing ever came of it.

I've got a few minutes spare right now, so I dug up one of the sources that I read on the subject. It is a tech bulletin from Moto Guzzi that someone made available for a post in the German Forum. Here is what DeepL made of the post. NB: the V11 motor is not specifically referred to. Since that motor is, however, as far as I understand it effectively the same as the Breva 1100 motor, I take the specs for the Breva motor to apply equally well to the V11. Since @pete roper referred to 10W60 further up, I gather I am not too far wrong with that. Anyway.. To clear up any misunderstandings about the oils recommended by the manufacturer, here is a technical note from Moto Guzzi: Source:WWW.SERVICEMOTOGUZZI.COM ( Dealer Portal) TECHNICAL BULLETIN NO. 010-2006 28-07-2006 Model: Breva 750/850/1100, Nevada 750, Griso 850/1100, Norge 1200 Subject: Recommended oil types Dear authorised dealer, Due to the increasingly stringent approval regulations, our motorbikes use oil types with highly developed technical properties. We are sure that you already comply with the relevant information in our operating and maintenance instructions for the respective motorbikes, so please allow us to list below once again the oil grades that lead to the best performance in our motorbikes. We would also like to remind you that the use of other types of oil can lead to malfunctions in the engine/drive unit SERIES 750 (Breva and Nevada): Engine oil: RACING 4T 10W-60 as alternative 15W-50 Drive oil: ROTRA TRUCK GEAR 85 W -140 Transmission oil: ROTRA MP/S 80 W -90 SERIES 850-1100-1200 (Breva Griso and Norge):Engine oil: RACING 4T 10W-60 The use of this type of oil is highly recommended for this engine, as it guarantees optimum pressure values even at high engine temperatures. Drive oil: ROTRA MP 80 W -90 Transmission oil: ROTRA MP/S 85 W -90 SERIES 1100 California - mechanical valve lifters Engine oil: RACING 4T 10W-60 as alternative 20W-50 Drive oil: ROTRA MP 80 W -90 Transmission oil: ROTRA MP 80 W -90 SERIES 1100 California - hydraulic valve lifters Engine oil: RACING 4T 5W-40 Mandatory for correct operation of the hydraulic valve lifters Drive oil: ROTRA MP 80 W -90 Transmission oil: ROTRA MP 80 W -90 At this point we would like to remind you that the above information refers to Agip brand products. Yours sincerely, Moto Guzzi Quality and Customer Satisfaction

I'm pulling things together here out of stuff I've read here and there, and haven't got time now to go and research it properly, nevertheless... There was a California 1100 model with hydraulic tappets. It needed, if I recall correctly, 5W40 for the tappets to work properly. I believe I have read elsewhere that this oil specification made its way (copy and paste error....) into the manuals of some other models which didn't have the hydraulic tappets, and should have had 20W50 or 10W50 specified. Like I said, I don't have time to research that properly right now, but I'm pretty sure that could explain the specification in the Coppa manual.

fully unacceptable. I'm sure your Guzzi dies of embaressment every time you use it.

Nothing today, but... The day before yesterday on the V11, got the forks and front wheel back in. About time, too... Yesterday on the V35 Imola rode about 110 km. I really didn't want to, honest, but the battery needed charging... On the Breva, disconnected the battery. It isn't going to be ridden for about 4 weeks, minimum. If the battery is not disconnected, that is long enough to completely flatten it.

I searched "Tyco" using the forum search function. Amongst many others, this came up from @docc Here's the list of hits from the search. Have a look. I think you'll be shopping for relays soon. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/search/?&q=Tyco&quick=1&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

If I recall correctly, the reason for that is that if ground connections elswhere go bad, the connection from the regulator to battery negative could end up trying to be the main ground for the whole wiring system, and get fried.

I agree with @Lucky Phil Be aware that if the regulator is defective, it will cook your nice new battery in fairly short order.

Might be in some places, but in Germany, the headlight low-beam comes on with the ignition switch and can't be turned off. I don't know when that came into force. Both the 2002 Le mans and the 2005 or so Breva 750 are like that. The V35 Imola, 1983 and imported from Italy, has an "off" switch for the headlights. Incidentally, as far as I know, the mandatory "always-on low-beam" is only for Motorcycles. My car allows the headlights to be switched off. It is from 2016. PS: here, I found an article from the European Comission. Warning: the tone of the article is of the nature of those who believe that motorcycles should be banned altogether, and that those who ride motorcycles probably should be put away in closed institutions for their own good. Having said that... https://road-safety.transport.ec.europa.eu/eu-road-safety-policy/priorities/safe-vehicles/archive/safety-design-needs/motorcycles_en

Well done, that man. My V11 is in the garage minus front fork. Blown fork seals and head stem bearings. I hope to get the fork and front wheel back in within the next couple of days. I almost certainly wont get to ride it until the end of August. A week away in Munich, and a couple of days after that 3 weeks in Australia to see my family again after 9 years. Fortunately, I also have the Breva 750 and the V35 Imola, so I wont have to completely forgo the "Guzzi Experience" should I have the chance to get out for a ride on the few days in between.

Yes, I can remember reading a discussion about that, but not who wrote it.

It's not just the mounting, it's also the weight hanging out the back of the bike. An anecdote: I worked for a couple of months as a motorcycle courier a very long time ago. The bike was a Suzuki GSX 250, i.e. fairly light, and the courier box was mounted on a rack behind the seat, i.e. behind the rear axle of the bike. One day I got called to take a delivery from a foundry to one of their customers. I was young and foolish and made the delivery, but probably should have refused it. The rack held up to it, but the steering was so light because of the weight on the back of the bike that it was definitely highly dangerous. PS: the Hepco Becker racks are rated at 5 kg. for the rack. Panniers 10 kg each, as far as I remember. I have a 40 litre box for the rack, and have definitely had more than 5 kg in it, both on the 1000 GTR that I used to have, and on the Breva 750. Nothing has broken yet, but that issue with the weight at the back taking weight off the front wheel should be held in consideration.

Rest easy, @docc that's honest to goodness bona fide patina on that cover. I'm impressed. The Cadillac just looks contrived. What a co-incidence that the patch of paint under the name is intact, and all the rest is rusted away.

It wasn't meant to be. Who knows what might turn up instead, or why it would not have been a good thing.

Nice article, thanks for the link. I like this: That is something that I like. A "sleeper", if you like. Pay attention and effort to the way it works, and worry about how it looks when that is all sorted, and there are still some resources left over. Much better than renewing the paint, and then running out of money for making sure it all works properly, and maybe making it work better. PS: the Cadillac wing with paint around the Logo and the rest rust is wrong. That has been sand-blasted or acid-etched to induce a forced "patina". Otherwise, the rust would be all the way to the letters of the logo. Bit of a wank, I reckon.

Yes there are, but... Respraying to match the rest of the part involves "measuring" the colour of the surrounding area and matching it. Well equipped paint shops can do that, but it wont be the same as new, just the same as the rest. To get it back to close to original, there needs to be a part that has been well protected over the years. I had that issue with my 1976 Z900 in the late '80s. The paint was apparently not really long-lasting, or maybe the bike was left standing in the sun for long periods before I got it. The tank was very badly faded, and peeling in a number of spots. The lip of the tail-piece under the seat was, however, still in very good nick. I got the paint shop to match that. The result was probably not exactly original (deep green with a fine metallic touch) but looked great. I found it much nicer thank the "patina", which just looked worn out. I dare say some would have kept it "original" as a sign of the "authenticity" of what the bike had been through. I liked it better with the new paint. Having said that, I don't plan on having any of the three Guzzis re-painted, although the V35 Imola could use it. The paint isn't that bad, just obviously old, and I would rather have it as it is than have a re-paint turn out looking "better than new" and therefore somehow fake.

Although I strictly refuse to be involved with that mob, I could see this. The site apparently "knows" that I am in Germany, but I have translated: Here are some pictures. They are linked from the facebook site, so they may become unavailable in the course of time. For that eventuality, suffice to say that they show a Greenie, but no details of interest. EDIT: regarding "details of interest", it has a fairly ugly bikini fairing, but that could no doubt be easily relegated to "things that once were"...

I think you spelled that wrong... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merkin

New info: Paul Minnaert replied in the german forum, that the one with the bullet connectors wont fit in a V11 without changing the connectors. They are apparently "standard size" bullet connectors, and not the slightly larger, odd sized connectors that someone mentioned here recently. @docc I think it was you that mentioned that issue, wasn't it?

Excuse my ignorance, but what is meant by "hop-up"?

The dampers in the cush drive. There is a school of thought that says they work better if one drills a hole in the blocks. Sounds plausible enough, but I've not felt the need to try it.

Then you obviously must buy it. Who has two with successive numbers, and when will the chance come up again?