audiomick

Quite off topic, but I do rather like the workbench behind the bike in that picture.

I think it must be. As far as I understand the wiring diagram, one side of the lamp sees 12V together with a couple of other warning lamps, and the other side sees a connector on the regulator. It won't be getting 12V from both sides, so the connector on the regulator must be a switch to ground.

Yeah, that's on the plan.

Thanks for that. I have a good friend who lives in Carlton, but I don't know for sure if he can put us up. I'll get in touch if needs be.

A very unpleasant thought. The boarding school (St. Patrick's) with heating in the dormitories was bad enogh. The lake is pretty, but it is a converted swamp. I was the cox of a rowing crew in my first year there, and I had a Kayak for the last couple of years there, so I spent quite a bit of time on Lake Wendouree. Nice, but one notices that it is not natural.

Yep. That's on the plan for this year. Probably in Melbourne from about the 6th. August to the 10th. Unfortunately without a Motorcycle. We will be flying in to Brisbane, arriving on the 18th. July. A mate of mine is in Brisbane, and my youngest brother is somewhere near Brunswich Heads. Going from there, down through Canberra to see my sister, Wodonga-Beechworth to see my older brother and mother, Cobram to see my father and next younger brother, and Melbourne to see a couple of mates. Something over 2,000 km in three weeks. It looks like we will be hiring a camper van. I don't expect it to be a relaxing holiday, but it is necessary.

I'm having a bit of a nostalgia wave at the moment, which is why I came up with these. I'm pretty sure @Lucky Phil knows both of these roads, but as a responsible citizen he has most certainly never ridden along either one at more than the legal speed limit. This one was a regular destination as part of a day ride. It was an easy ride out from where I lived, and further outwards there are some more "attractive" roads. Incidentally, the bush looks a bit weird because a devastating fire went through there in the early 2000 years. That is what a Eucalyptus forest looks like after a fire, and it looks like it is coming back pretty well. Anyway, this is the road on which I learned that the rule of thumb that you can double the recommended speed limit and add ten percent doesn't always apply. That road is here: https://www.openstreetmap.org/directions?engine=fossgis_osrm_car&route=-37.6027182%2C145.272874%3B-37.5327424%2C145.341131#map=13/-37.56778/145.30706 Then there is this: That is here: https://www.openstreetmap.org/directions?engine=graphhopper_car&route=-37.80205%2C145.00992%3B-37.78815%2C145.02511#map=14/-37.79469/145.02357 Of course I never, ever went there and engaged in antisocial activities in the middle of town. Well, not very often. Definitely not more than once a week. Depending on which week it was.

I bet Ballarat isn't. Six years in a boarding school there confirmed Ballarat's reputation of being a cold and miserable place. EDIT: the reputation has even spread to the Wiki... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballarat#Climate

Funny that, because, being a circuit, everything in it is equally important. Otherwise, the circuit wouldn't be a circuit, but rather maybe a semi-circle or a drag-strip or something.

It is slightly weird to read that. Matches me perfectly on all counts, except that I am not in Australia, so it can't be me.

I would translate that into German slightly differently. "Verstecken" is the verb "to hide", so it is not wrong as such. It is just the implication. The verb "verdecken" means "to cover", and hits it better, I reckon. "Zeigen" means "to show", "Vorzeigen" also means "to show", but one of the nuances is "to exhibit". "Gewisse Dinge verdeckt man, um sie vorzuzeigen". DeepL.com gives that back as "You cover up certain things to show them off". @p6x How does that match up with the original? PS: I know that most people aren't all that interested in that sort of question, but I find it fascinating how translating back and forth can completely change the meaning of something, even though each translation is technically correct.

That's the only logical way to go at it, I reckon. The rubbers from the airbox to the throttle bodies retract into the airbox out of the way, so it makes sense to me to start at the engine end, put those rubbers on, put the throttle bodies on, and then put on the ones to the airbox. Much easier than it was on my GTR 1000 Kawasaki. Both the rubbers to the engine and the rubbers from the airbox were fixed in place. Getting the carburettor bank in required something akin to a set of tyre levers, much patience and brute force, and a plethora of cursing. Incidentally, someone mentioned further up replacing both the rubbers between the throttle bodies and the intake manifolds and the rubbers between the airbox and the throttle bodies. Good plan, but it is worth noting, I think, that the ones between the throttle bodies and the intake manifold are more critical. They are downstream of the injectors, and if there is an air leak there it will definitely affect engine performance. The ones from the airbox to the throttle bodies are upstream of the injectors, so a leak there will allow "dirty air" into the system, but should not affect the mixture and thereby engine performance.

Has anyone mentioned this one yet? https://www.zhejianghke.com/hke-4133-12v-24vdc-1-form-a-and-c-contact-miniature-heavy-duty-general-purpose-automotive-relay/ It was recommended in a German language forum by someone who's advice I value highly. The person that made the recommendation considers the relays to be "Verschleißteile", i.e. consumables, parts subject to wear and tear. He changes his relays at the latest every four years on principle. He named this source, and at the price of €2.99 each, changing them every few years shouldn't hurt too much. https://www.voelkner.de/products/850370/HKE-4133-S-DC12V-C-R-Kfz-Relais-12-V-DC-35A-1-Wechsler.html?offer=93e6ea03ad7817bcc6bd3238ad7488c3 PS: I searched the part number and got a good number of hits. I have the impression that the relays are readily available. PPS: going by the drawings in the site behind the first link, they are 22mm high. From memory, that is at the lower end of the range, and should fit in under the seat quite well.

Very nice. I also rather like the sort of thing that accentuates what is underneath.

Stein-Dinse has been mentioned. Wendel in Berlin has also has them, delivery a week or so https://wendelmotorraeder.de/hose_gu01114390-p-1034021.html?language=en&ref=expl and I dare say TLM in the Netherlands would have them. As has also been mentioned, they are available. Search a bit, and you may find a source nearer to you.

Ahhh, I dunno. Naked is good, but a carefully considered bit of "clothing" is also definitely a good thing.

French national railways, I gather. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SNCF

Nice. I'm glad you can ride it again.

That seems the likely candidate to me. As you said yourself, if something is shorting out, it would be prone to blow fuses. If there is an intermittent contact somewhere, things will just stop working, and when you wiggle it all to get the contact back, start working again. Until the contact gets lost again. PS: it might be in the wire where there is a stress point, for instance, or a connector that is not sitting properly or going bad due to long-term poor contact.

You, and your horse.

Yes, it does look a bit rough. I hope the replacement looks better.

It is very close to that. I don't remember if I got it to exactly 157, but within a couple of mV for sure. Why I'm happy within "a couple": I watched Bernd, the author of Guzzidiag, and Karsten, the chief administrator of the German forum out of which Guzzidiag was born, set up a V11 a couple of years ago. Bernd was on the computer, and Karsten was on the screwdriver. Karsten got 160 mV, and was satisfied with that. The value 157 mV came from Meinolf, also a member of that forum. There is contact and discussion between the three of them on the subject, so I reckon if Karsten and Beard (Bernd) are satisfied with "within a couple of mV", it is probably good enough for me. Don't get me wrong, 157 mV is the target. But if practicalities like how the thing jumps a bit when you tighten up the last turn of the screw get in the way, you don't have to have kittens about a mV or two. PS: the V11 in question ran very well after the tune-up, and the owner was delighted. It was a Greenie.

This one, probably: https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/anlasserabdeckung-carbon-fuer-moto-guzzi-v11/3092075570-306-4094 This is the text in the ad: Contact to the seller: the button "Nachricht schreiben".

That is the first thing I would do. Someone else has been buggerising around with it, and you have no way of knowing if it all makes sense. The best thing to do is go back to the base-line, and make your own decisions from there. Also, please read what @pete roper recently wrote on the subject. I reckon it might be relevant for you too. PS: I didn't see you mention the motor position sensor. I have very reliable advise that it only a matter of time before they fail. My V11 Le Mans runs very badly between 2 and 3,000 r.p.m, and that sensor is what I'll be looking at next. No idea if that is logical, but I'm pretty sure the issue has nothing to do with the fuelling, but rather with the spark management somehow.

I like the bird.