audiomick

I haven't tried this out, but have a look at this: https://www.idownloadblog.com/2020/06/08/ipad-right-click-tutorial/ If I think of it, I'll try it out at work tomorrow. My head of department loves his fruit, I hate the bloody things.

I like that. Maybe we could adopt it here (despite my aversion to Ford on principle. I always preferred Holden. Look it up. )

Yes. I have in mind this post from @Sam P which seems to contradict an earlier post from Sam The first one indicates that the system is not charging at all. The second that the regulator is not regulating. In the case that the first one indicates, i.e. that the charging system is not charging, I think we can rule out that the reference voltage is too low. If it were, the system should overcharge constantly (which would exlude the warning lamp coming on, as far as I understand it) In the case that the second one indicates, i.e. that the system is overchargin, for my understanding, the charge warning light shouldn't be coming on, unless the Electrosport regulator operates differently from the original shown in @Kiwi_Roy's schematic. So I'm assuming that the charging system just isn't charging.

I'm referring to the troubleshooting that I described in my post, but going through the Electrosport flow-chart looks like a good idea too. PS: regarding quoting or referring to posts: if you right-click on the "time-stamp" at the top of the relevant post, chose "copy link address" from the menu that appears, and paste that into your reply, you get this: I think that is what you are looking for in that regard.

I beg to differ. Look at the V11 wiring diagram here, page 364 https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf Ok, I see you have posted again whilst I was writing and checking my sources, and have seen it already, but I will continue for the sake of general edification. When the key is switched on, the lighting relay switches on and provides power through a red-black wire to the entire lighting circuit, and the oil light, fuel light, tacho (power, not the back-light), and the reference voltage for the regulator. After the charge warning light, a light blue wire goes to the regulator. The regulator switches this to ground when the charging voltage is below the battery voltage (key on, engine off, or the alternator has failed), causing the charge warning light to light up. So: the presence or absence or functionality of the charge warning light can not have any influence on whether the charging system works or not. and, the reference voltage supply is the same one that causes the warning lamp to light up, actually, but the two functions (reference and warning) are completely independant of one another. It's like they "stole" a bit of the reference voltage to light the lamp. I find that somehow weird, but apparently it works.

I don't think it is applicable to the V11. The older Tonti models utilise, as far as I understand it, the charge light to energise the "electromagnet" part of the Bosch alternator. It needs to be an incandescent bulb within a specific wattage range. Changing it to an LED means you have to put a ballast resistor in the circuit to keep the rotor energised. Given the similarities to the older BMW models in a lot of respects (hate to admit it, but it is true... ) I reckon that is the common ground. In the V11, the charge warning light does indeed get it's power from the same circuit that supplies the reference voltage for the regulator. I can't, however, see any reason at all why the charging system wouldn't work if the charge warning lamp was not even there. It gets switched to ground "behind" the regulator when the charge voltage drops below the battery voltage, and has no influence at all on the regulation of the charging system or the operation of the alternator.

Really? I didn't notice...

Yeah, but he's cute.

Fertilised by Merlin cocking his hind leg and pissing on it, no doubt.

No. As far as I understand the wiring diagrams, I can't see any way that this could happen. What I suspect is that there are two faults: the charging system isn't charging for whatever reason, and that there is a fault in the charge warning light that prevents it from lighting up until the revs get over 4,000. The suspicion is an intermittent contact in the warning lamp circuit somewhere that gains contact due to the increased and/or higher frequency vibrations at higher revs. The fact that the warning lamp isn't lighting up at lower revs could be disguising the fact that the charging circuit isn't working at any revs rather than, as it appears, failing at higher revs. That's assuming that my suspicion of a fault in there is correct. Do the troubleshooting as I described. It shouldn't be too difficult, I think, and might shed a new light on the situation.

The weird thing is that the lamp is not coming on when the ignition is switched on, but does light at higher revs. I'm referring to the schematic of the original regulator from Kiwi Roy that I attached here and to the wiring diagramme on page 364 of this workshop manual, which I believe is the correct one for the bike https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf The lamp comes on at higher revs, so we know for sure it is getting power, at least under those conditions. The power arriving there is shared by the oil light, the fuel level light, and the tacho. As I understand the diagram, it is not the tacho backlight, so if the tacho is working at all engine speeds, I'm assuming the power feed to the charge lamp is there all the time (for now) as the feed appears to be the same one that powers the tacho. Therefore, I suspect some sort of intermittent contact, in the lamp or on the way to the regulator, that is finding contact due to vibration a higher revs only. Bear in mind that an incandescent light bulb reacts slowly, so a barely separated contact that is finding intermittent contact due to vibrations could well be enough to make it look like it is lighting constantly. Referring to the Kiwi Roy schematic, the warning light comes on when the regulator switches the line coming from the warning light to ground. Therefore, contacting that wire to ground to check the lamp, as @gstallons suggested, is the way to check the lamp. According to the wiring diagram, however, that wire is light blue, not white. Whatever, given the described behaviour, if the lamp doesn't come on (Key on, engine off) with that light blue wire connected to ground, I would start the engine and see what happens at the engine speed at which it has been coming on. This is to test the "intermittent connection" theory against "the regulator is doing weird things". If it looks like there is an intermittant connection, it could be in the lamp itself, or in the socket. The next step along is in the connector number 8 at the bottom left of the wiring diagram, which I understand is the connector from the loom to the dashboard. After that, the connector at the regulator. Or a break in the actual wire. To cross check... Put the multi-meter on the Ohms setting, and measure the resistance (key on, engine off) between the connector on the regulator that the wire from the warning lamp connects to and ground (engine casing, battery minus...). That should be very close to zero(as I said, key on, engine off). Then start the engine. If the regulator is doing the right thing, the resistance should now be very high, effectively infinite. If not, the first guess is that the volts from the alternator aren't getting into the regulator, or the regulator might be dodgy. Now rev the engine slowly up to the revs at which the lamp was coming on. If the measured resistance was very high (infinite) right from the start and suddenly drops at high revs, it would seem that the regulator is doing weird stuff that I can't explain right now. I rather suspect that the measured resistance will turn out to be close to zero the whole time. That would indicate that the regulator isn't getting the volts from the alternator (or is faulty) and that there is an intermittent, vibration sensitive fault in the warning lamp circuit preventing the lamp from lighting all the time as the switch in the regulator is "telling" it to. In other words, I think it is possible that there are two problems happening simultaneously making it difficult to find either one.

Key off, engine on...

Yes, pretty. But a pity about the missing clip-ons.

As for the first: I'm still thinking of a bad connection. The alternator seems to be doing it's thing, but it seems the volts aren't getting to the regulator. The only thing is that the charge light isn't coming on when the key is turned on. As far as I understand it, it must if it is lighting up at higher revs. Don't know what's going on there. To the second point, I've attempted to attach a PDF from @Kiwi_Roy of the original regulator. It seems to be a lamp balancing act. Whether or not the Electrosport regulator/rectifier works the same way, I don't know. Regulator Schematic - Basic.pdf

What I did find is this. I only read it fairly quickly, but it seems to cover pretty much everything as far as I can tell with my level of knowledge. They don't explain exactly what fault they are looking for at each step, but I could tell from the test itself what nearly all of them were. A potentially useful document, I think, not only for the case in hand. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf?235929069374954073

So that would be the one behind this link. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a lot in the way of documentation on the site. https://www.electrosport.com/collections/street-motorcycles-moto-guzzi-2001-v11-sport/products/esr515-regulator-rectifier-ducati-1-phase-charge-light-output

So you've got an even chance of getting it out if there is enough stub sticking out to get a good grip on. If there's not enough sticking out, something like this might work (not a specific reccomendation. It's just the first hit of that sort of tool in English that I found...) https://www.totaltools.com.au/6816-sutton-no-1-no-6-screw-extractor-set-easy-out-6pc-m603s15a?srsltid=AfmBOoqSWrh6TBcPMQ6vByl5TZUMmxOQ-fljbiVTOx3-DmxGtBl0fJk-

Unfortunately. It seems she aged very well.

I get mine out of the cupboard in the bathroom. My girlfriend buys it from the local chemist. I'm not quite convinced that it does absolutely everything it is claimed to do, but it definitely doesn't do any harm. And it does seem to help.

Sounds solid to me.

Undoubtably the better option.

Would you send a set to Germany?

Very good. Get it back to where Luigi thought it should work, and take it from there. Bear in mind that the timing sensor is a known weak point. I think, by that mileage, that it probably isn't due yet, but it might be. Also, the rubber intake manifolds may be questionable due the the age of the bike (not the mileage). EDIT: messing around with the map is the last thing on the list. Make sure everything else is ok, i.e. how Luigi thought it should work, before you delve into the map. Otherwise you might end up changing the map to cover up a fault that has an entirely different, possibly simple and easily mechanically fixed, cause. Decent tune-up and all that....

Do you think so? I'm doubtful. I think we need a photo with the cover off.

I, of course, have never ruined a bolt, nut or screw in my entire life. Ever. Really. Oh, look, there's a flying pig...