andy york

We...you guys are gonna have to move the time frame next year. alas I will not be there for all you slackers to belittle me for smoking and drinking some shine. I hope you swill so much grappa that you use the curb as a pillow.... that the sun is out and your all hot and sweaty and that there no water in the pool when you get back and my tps is set at 560mv. andy :D

Ain't broke don't fix it ! andy

That would be VDST software Tom. With the WM15M ecu thats about all you can do. You can check various sensors and fire the injectors,coils.... But you can not change the TPS,idle and a few other things like you can on later model Ducatis..which have a newer ECU. Andy 70000 m 02 LeMans

Hey Docc, Yes, the VDST reads in degrees.... I think I saw 557mV at idle..motor running.... If I get to Barbers it will be am on Sunday. leaving this Sunday for Wild Bill H's neck of the woods Andy

I'm glad you chimed in K. I was hoping you had some work left to do on yours. I left you a PM. Andy

To all that need to know..... The TPS is a sealed unit. It has two o-rings to make it water tight. Inside is a flexible circuit board thing. No metal to metal contact like a good old fashioned rheostat. My LeMans has also been popping through the right cylinder for a long time. I have set it according to the instructions found on this forum and have never found success. Docc was trying to figure his out about a year ago when we changed the CO.. do you remember where we set it Docc? + 20 or +40??? Anyway.....setting up per instructions here, the idle was always to high and with the bypass screws closed I had no option to lower the idle other than the idle screw which then changed the TPS reading. Today I took the VDST and started fooling around again.150 mv ...balanced...525mv...to high idle ... you get the picture. *#%^*#% screw it ...bike running ...loosened TPS and set it to 3.6 degrees.... idling at 1000.. Runs GREAT !!!!!!. No more popping !!! I'm sure I will need to fine tune this a bit and see what the mpg does but all in all I feel good about this. So I am just before posting this ..........ahhh thats better Fire suit on and ready andy 70,000 mile V11 LeMans

Sorry about that Been riding to much and not keeping up memory is the first thing to go or maybe second ...I can't remember andy

Hey Dan M Looking for 10 relays pm me or hit me off list Thanks andy

I'm still a little confused as to where homebase is going to be. will try to get over that way before the paddy wagon shows up or maybe the wagon will be following me later andy

Well, I have just installed another set of throttle bodies on the ole girl, and she runs pretty good! As of this moment I don't have pop and crackle any more from 2500 to 3300 rpm The seals appear OK on the throttle shafts. I will replace them when I find the right stuff. The shaft itself does not appear to be worn but the bushings must be made of the same crappy material as our valve guides. Still working on that solution. The amount of crude that gets under the TPS is amazing. What piss poor design. I'm thinking a little bit of silicone or a piece of tape....something to keep water from getting under the TPS and rusting the top of TB shaft. It appears to me that the right side is worse than the left because of that. If you try and disassemble the TB's on the bike, use good hex sockets...etc because the screws are small and locktighted. more to come.... andy

Did she ram your cargo into the back of the gas tank ? I'm looking for a used set of throttle bodies to see what can be done . hopefully high mileage I at the shop now call me andy

I haven't had time to dive into it yet...The unfortunate thing is that I don't think there are any o-rings to replace This was a problem on the Weber carbs on 911's ....the throttle shaft rides on the aluminum body of the carbs. There was a place in LA that had a fix for the Webers. i actually saw a few drips of fuel run down the bottom of the throttle body. If I rode in stop and go traffic this would be terribly frustrating. I don't so its not. It is a little annoying. Yes ...I have already tried the computer adjust and no luck. Mine is 3K and below and I rarely ride at that rpm (when I'm being paced ) I have 55k on mine, yours is close to that, and I know of another at almost 30k that might just be starting this. andy

docc call me andy

I would like to determine what you guys are calling Squish. Are you setting the deck height? I'm sure there is a optimal cylinder height, measured from the bottom gasket surface to the top gasket surface. The point of using various thicknesses of base gaskets and head gaskets is to be able to get the deck height set properly. What this magic number is, I don't know. Havent been able to cipher guzzi's manual yet. I'm putting my engine back together(while I'm still waiting on tranny parts) 55,000 miles...what I consider well taken care of..... Valve guides shot....valves shot...seats shot....heads have been hot ....slight warpage.... Heads are done now and look fantastic....can't wait to put it together.. Hope I opened up a whole nother can of worms andy

I think Guido had a little to much when it came to the trannys. The second eccentric, which is "behind the pawl arm" is not present on all trannys. Some just have the roll pin driven in the case. If this is "your case", the back edge of the pawl arm never comes close to the roll pin. So the pawl arm is attached to the pivot which attaches to the splined shift rod. The spring that breaks keeps tension on the arm to keep it engaged in the upper shift wheel. roll pin or eccentric, the arm is only going to move away from the shift wheel enough to engage the next steel pin on the upper shift wheel and since its always under tension why have the eccetric? Why have any eccentric. If you deviate form being adjusted in the middle, on the bottom spring, you are going to screw up either the upshift or the downshift . And lets not forget that there is not a lot of adjustment in this particular device. Lets keep playing. andy

i have a friend who flew to texas to pick up a bike he won on ebay. He is trying to make from Waco to Nashville but seems to be having some fueling problems. The bike is a 2006 Triumph bonnieville. He is try to go super slab and is south of Waco right now. anyone who might be in his path that could give 20 or 30 minutes to help let me know. It has to be something stupid... its a pretty low tech bike.....air,fuel,fire and it should run.....runs for 20 miles then stops...wait 5 min ....start back up and run for 20 miles... anyway thanks in advance andy 615-476-1946

I have a problem with some of government employees that work in Robbinsville Well, I don't have a problem with them but they certainly don't like me oh well lets ride andy

I just ordered the euro part# from the dealer fully expecting to receive the US version. They sent the euro ....unplug the stock US one and plug in the euro....bingo!!!! Lights off----running lights-----or headlight.. But now your not DOT compliant andy

Thanks andy

OK I know this is the wrong board ....but......... looking for valve clearances and fluid capacities for a Breva 750 what a weird little bike nice but weird andy

Thanks Pete, I cant find my usuall bolt. Now on to getting all the springs to stay in place and use my extra hub to compress it all andy

OK anybody know what size bolt and the thread pitch for the clutch side of the crankshaft? trying to get the clutch back in andy

02 LeMans 50,051 as of today on the way back from Indy andy

Just for the record.. Docc has the last of the Ohlins rear... part # mg-127....Go ahead ..call your sources....NLA !!! Thats not to say they can't be had from the place in Germany or where ever... Yes it is fully adjustable Yes it has remote preload adjustment Yes if you want more spring preload than what it was setup with or that you can get with the hydraulic preload adj...you have to pull the shock. I was hoping that it would suck...or ride like a buckboard. then you could bring it back and I could give you a refund andy