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rossoandy

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Posts posted by rossoandy

  1. :drink::D

    Brian, I always appreciate a creative Rube Goldberg setup :notworthy: , having put together some impressive amalgamations of my own, if I do say so meself.... :grin:

     

    Now you've got me goin' on this.... :blush:

     

    With the front wheel off the floor and ~20 lbs-ft. torque on the adjuster nut, I have FAR LESS than 4 lbs-ft. turning resistance at the bars -- with both of my bikes! Here's a "precision" measurement. :not: With the Guzzi front wheel off the floor and steering damper halfway to "at speed" setting, I can turn the bars at will lock to lock in either direction, pushing with the "retractor button" on a ball-point pen at the end of the bar-end weights -- WITHOUT clicking the pen!!! Now THAT would seem to be far less torque than 4 lbs-ft., n'est-ce pas? :whistle:

    aaaah ratchet does that allow for the differnt spring rates used by the likes of Parker v Biro in their pens!! :D and what about adjustable pre load pens? he he :drink:

  2. Well, I have to admit I upgraded to a radial master cylinder.

     

    I will try and give a word picture of the benefit...... :huh:

     

    The piston actuation on a 'normal' front master cylinder has a rotary action. It pivots and the end of the lever actuataes the piston 90 degrees from the direction of pull.

     

    A radial Master cylinder has a threaded plunger which is on the other side (right) of the lever pivot.

    When the lever is pulled the piston is displaced in the same plane as the lever movement.

    Perversely, it gives a linear action compared to the 'normal' radial pivoting action of the lever operation.

    I hope that makes some seinse. :unsure:

    I have to admit, it has improved feel and power on the Scura.

     

    Nige. B)

    might see you soon nig......

  3. Thaks everone for input, still no clear answer though.

     

    The alternative Rosso Porro arm seems best alternative for the money?

     

    I pissed Guzzi dont supply things like these bushes or drive shaft u/joints....

     

    Guess we live in 'throw-away' rather than 'fix-it' society huh <_>

     

    Still feel our bikes meant to be more durable and 'old school' therefore would expect to be able to buy these wear items easily.........

  4. The bike is now taxed and tested :bike: , there are no noises or oil leaks so it looks like the bevel box is fixed. :luigi:

    KOOOOOOOL! well done on road b4 mine too!

    I got my new u/js for driveshaft and hoping to press emm in tomorrow at work. If all goes well may be able to fit gbox seal and start reassembling Sunday! hoo :D rah!

  5. Off work tomorrow, pinion and crownwheel in the freezer and heat gun at the ready :luigi:

    Well the box is back together.

    I bought a bearing separator/puller to go with my existing puller, these combined with my vice and a little bit of lateral thinking made the job possible.

     

    Pinion.JPG[ crownwheel.JPGOld_Bearing.JPG I used the old bearings to protect the new bearings that had to be tapped into place.

    The case seals and bearings went in quite easily, the pinion and crown wheel inner race pressed into place with the separator and vice or puller with little effort but getting the pinion into the case proved tricky as I didn't want to use a hammer or push inner bearing race. In the end I used the bearing puller with one leg into the case opening and the other under a slight lip on the case outer (remember the case isn't thick at the opening so be gentle and take it slow !!) to press the pinion into the case by using the castleated nut upside down with various washers and a socket to load only on the outside of the bearing (making sure it went in straight so the pinion nose bearing lined up), once it was far enough in to expose the thread I turned the nut the correct way up and pushed the bearing fully in by tightening it (while gently heating the case with the heat gun).

    Just got to put it on the bike and tighten the pinion nut up against the brake.

     

    So basically buy a puller and a separator (I wish I'd bought it earlier to remove the old bearings rather than using a grinder :homer: )

     

    I got the missing inner race for the outer case support bearing (IR 20 25 18)for £8.80

    and the O ring (BS 143) for 24p

     

    WELL DONE ! Just goes to show how a bit of thought can overcome what could have been a really expensive job. I agree the purchase of a bearing separator would have made my stripdown a lot easier I am sure although cutting the old inner bearing tracks wasnt really a problem. The small bearing for the nose of the pinion came without the inner race the first time jack ordered it but when I questioned this he found an alternative part no including an inner race for me.

    The two small bearings you could not identify....they were on my order with jack for something else I was doing at the time! :homer: ooops!

    Anyway the latest is jack is busy sourcing new u/j's for my driveshaft as the inner one has a tight spot and I don't wanna risk a failure. He reckons less than £30 for the pair! Guzzi only do a complete shaft at £250+!

    I will post the results of his findings and my work in swopping them over. :mg:

  6. I had it all stripped down, I just couldn't get the stupid bearing out of the way of the seal. I got though. Alittle heat, the right size punch and a highly calbrated persuation device (aka hammer) and she popped right out.

     

    Actually I kinda felt stupid for asking :blush:

     

    Z

    Hope you did't drive out on the inner race!!

  7. Usually when gears are made in the hobbing machine,the ring gear and pinion are machined at the same time to ensure that the tooth profile matches across the face of the tooth.I'd imagine that you'd have a fair degree of difficulty trying to match a tooth profile on a single gear. I'm not saying it would be impossible,just bloody difficult.

     

    Saying that,how accurate would the Guzzi machining be? :huh:

     

    Good luck

    hmmmmmm. I thought a hobbing machine made biscuits!!

     

    Hobnobs!!!

     

    Seriously though these parts are indeed a matched pair and I would be surprised if a replacment pinion could be made to a satisfactory std and cost.

  8. this topic interests me a lot, no dealers in the republic of ireland, could anyone suggets a good one in northern ireland or in wales? around holyhead or Liverpool?

    thanks

    How about Isle O Mann? I found the dealer there briliant when at the TT.

  9. Thanks, all, for the replies. I think I just need to get in there and take a look-see at what I've got going on. The information I was looking for was whether or not it had anything to do with the Redline, and now I don't think it does. I noted last night that the owners manual I got with the bike specifies a synthetic AGIP lube for the rear diff. So, I think I'll replace whatever seal(s) need replacing and then refill with the Redline HD Shockproof stuff and see how she goes.

    The oil seal behind the small bearing is a bitch to change,the O ring on the housing is easy. Its not yer pinion bearing failing causing a leak from the driveshaft input is it? :(

    Lots of pics on my pinion bearing thread and err someone elses! lol

     

    Don't despair it isnt as bad to do as it looks. :bike:

  10. :(

    Actually, those are pretty cool. Shaft drive bikes have been around for 100 years, but never caught on.

    The issue was not so much efficiency as weight. Gears and chains are similarly efficient initially, with chains slightly out front until they wear (quickly), and gears out front after the chains wear a lot.

    Modern shelf parts (internally geared many speed hubs) might make this a neat machine to own.

    With the HP produced from a human, the gear drive would not wear out in a lifetime of regular use.

    Unless of course Guzzi make the shaft drive!!!! :(

  11. Hi folks, sorry I've been really busy last four weeks after starting a new job and on top of that my internet provider is shite and crashes frequently(talk talk).

     

    Seems like I've missed helping with a few issues here,

    The small bearing should come with an inner race, speak to Jack as the first one I got was incorrect too,

    The lightwieght small bearings that you can't identify are probobaly the outer ones the bevel box pivots on?

    All the seals I got from Jack at BRT were ok,dunno whats occured here?

    And yes the main nut is fkn tight and I had to grind mine off too. A new nut was around a fiver I recall.

     

    My bike is stil in bits, I removed the swing arm to attend to a weep from the gearbox output only to find the front driveshaft u/j has a tight spot in it! The u/j is circliped in so I need to source a new u/j and fit it to the shaft before I reassemble it all. Irritating that the drive shaft and u/s cannot be removed without taking off the swing arm!

     

    My new job is not giving me the time or energy to get it all sorted quickly and summer is approachin!

     

    :bike:

  12. Thanks guys for your input on this. I have been really busy at work so not had time even to pick up replies here.

    Rose joints and spacers look like cheap option but I have no way of machining the req spacers so at the moment rossoporro arm with new rose joints at 88euro seems good value to me.

  13. Hi everyone, just wanted to let you know that I picked up my scura yesterday with its new clutch :)

     

    However my joy was short lived!

    I found the clutch very sharp when I picked it up but put this down to it being new & the fact I had not ridden the bike for 2 months. I rode about 120 miles on motorway & the last 11-12 miles through towns etc. This is when I noticed that the clutch was dragging very badly and that it was very hard to change up through the gears from 1st to about 4th. It changed down ok but I can't select neutral at all.

     

    When I stop at traffic lights etc with clutch lever fully pulled in the bike is still shooting forward so I apply brake to stop me hitting whats in front and engine just stalls. must of happened at least 15 times in those 11 odd miles.

    I am wondering if anyone has an idea why this is happening and if the clutch can be adjusted ?

     

    The dealer who fitted it still can't tell me what problem was with old clutch and they are not guaranteeing the new one. I plan to phone them tomorrow but expect them to say its not their problem any more. :(

     

    I would be really grateful to hear what you guys think :)

    Many thanks

    Depressed Ozzy

    Does lever feel normal ?

    My first suspicion is loss of hydraulic fluid. Maybe leaking from bleed screw on rear of gbox. Have a look at level in res first. If empty,where's it gone! ps my ross is still on its oe clutch at 18k and feels 100% last time I rode her...back in October...

  14. I think it is a standard black Le Mans. It may not be an intentional effort to deceive by the seller- my Rosso Corsa is listed as a Tenni on the V5 document- as are all V11 Le Mans I believe, whether they are a Tenni or not. DVLA can't cope with all the V11 designations!

     

    If the seller is not an expert on the V11 range then he may have simply got the name from the registration document.

     

    Will probably go for way more than it is worth- a reasonable Le Mans of that age in decent nick would go for about £3k on EBAY, but people tend to go silly and pay over the odds sometimes with damaged bikes like this one.

     

    Guy :helmet:

    I agree, the value the seller quotes is for dreamers! An yes, I was interested too but NOT at the silly money it making now.

    Cosmetic damage??? that includes a cylinder head then!!

  15. You might want to ask for "spherical bearings" rather than bushes, if that's what those are [i can't recall, but I seem to remember some test pointing out back in the day that the then-new Guzzi floating hub was connected to the frame via a torque arm floating on spherical bearings on each end... Just an idea, don't mind me, I might have my head stuck up my backside! :grin:

    nah mate you ok, more likely guzzi got its head up its backside....'spherical bearings'!! lol they are metalastic type bushes!!!!! although I guess 'spherical bearings' does sound better. :moon:

  16. :drink:

    Bmw makes replacement bushings for there arms i used them to replace mine 02 lemans you need to make two spacers orshims about 60 thous. thick theywork just fine and only $14.00 dollars each. good luck

    Thanks for that info,I will be speaking to my local BM dealer,they were helpful when I needed a headlamp glass a year or two ago. I will however further pursue other options as I am sure they are out there cheaper still. I feel FIAT cars may use bushes this size on older cars for track control arm an like?

  17. I've been searching the web, but I haven't found a source there yet. One thing I did notice was that most of the sellers of Metalatik anythings were bearing supply houses. I'll pull mine out and shop it around while I am in the field on Monday and see what I find. If I come up with anything I'll post the information here.

     

    If anyone has the dimensions so I don't have to leave my bike sitting on a floor jack, I would appreciate you posting them here. Thanks.

     

    Ryan

    Be good if you can find some to match,dimensions are,30mm o/s dia, 10mm dia hole where bolt goes through.width of steel outer of bush 26mm, widest point where bolt goes through ie inner sleeve 31.7mm.measured with vernier caliper. thanks andy

  18. Welcome to the joy of potential Guzzi ownership!

     

    My words would be,

    There are four types of Guzzi owner?...those that love the older say pre V1100 models, these guys like the simple no frills perhaps almost agricultural approach Guzzi once enjoyed,they dont mind hours or even weeks undertaking major overhauls when required (not often) they enjoy vintage motorcycling. That said in their day they were honestly as good as any competitor but with a bit of soul n character.

    Then we move to the more modern bikes the V1100 range of bikes,early examples sported carbs but soon moved to fuel injection. These bikes are more advanced in many ways using mono shock suspensions and in some cases inverted forks too. Braking took a leap forward and controls became lighter to use. Colours and models changed yearly but the core bike changed little save for a bigger 'facelift' around 04. These bikes need far less attention than the earlier bikes but still have that Guzzi soul an character in abundance. They are not perfect however and do sufer a few issues the majority of which have been discussed here. Few are major ones that should put you off ownership.

    Then we have the latest bikes spawned by the PIAGGIO ownership. These are bang up to date bikes with all the whistles an bells the japs or germans have but with Latin design flair too. I have ridden only one myself but everyone i speak to has little to criticise on them. I do feel a little of that Guzzi soul may have been lost in the update but not owning / living with one perhaps should not comment more. I guess these new machines will have few faults or 'bad habits'. They are more perhaps for the modern biker who wants reliability and the latest style above all else.

     

    Finally, the fourth type of owner? They love emm all! :D

     

    So, there you have my 'words of wisdom' on your question, which Guzzi?

     

    An a right load of drivel it was too.... :lol:

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