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BrianG

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Posts posted by BrianG

  1. Well, I sold my 2000 V-11 Sport last fall thinking it was time for something else. Gotta shake my head since I had done all that work with the Traxxion forks and Penske shock and all the piddly other stuff.... Maybe it was just time for a new project.

     

     

    Oh well, last thanksgiving I decided to take a little jaunt in the ol' pick-'em up truck and drove down to Tacoma and picked up this little gem! Nothing too fancy in that it's only the "S" model, but it had

     

    Anyway, it's a lot of fun to ride, and quite a different canyon weapon than the V-11 was. Funny thing though.... even these guys are bitching about the wheels being too heavy!!

     

    Ride safe!

    P1010023.jpg

    626c_3.jpg

  2. when you are reinstalling;, freezing the bearings, wrapped in air tight plastic helps, along with heat where the bearings are going(the stem).Of course, a press is handy too. You can also do a quick-freeze using butane from a lighter refill cartridge.

     

    This would work great for the outer race in the steering head.

     

    For the inner race (on the stem), you'll want to shrink the stem diameter (freeze) and increase the race diameter (heat)

     

     

    Here's a simple race removal tool. Maybe someone on your side of the pond has something similar available?

     

    http://www.pitposse.com/ststberare.html

     

    I'm thinking that this tool is for removing the outer race, from inside the steering head. He's talking about the inner race, on the stem.

     

    I use a Dremmel tool with a cutting wheel to cut through about 80% of the inner race at 2 opposing places, then smack it with a cold steel chisel. It'l split off clean. Be careful to not touch the stem or lower triple with the cutting wheel or chisel.

  3. I currently have a 2000 V-11S and a 2005 999S. They are certainly different tools.

     

    Both have their own character and marque mystique. Both are uncommon and oft recognized as exotic.

     

    The MG is happy at 120mph all day long, and so will you be, at the end of the day. The Duc flicks through the turns more readily, but you'll be ready for the hot-tub after 3-4 hours on the hi-way.

     

    After 30-some years of motorcycling I have come to understand that tools and motorcycles are best when designed with specific tasks in mind. Compromise generally gives you the least of the characteristics from either extreme.

     

    And better than that..... After 30-some years of motorcycling I have come to understand that a man can own more than one motorcycle at a time!!!

  4. Damn..... I think I sold the V-11S. Some guy walked up and said `I have enough cash to buy that bike.` I said, `Bet you don`t.` But he did.......

     

    Now I`m ambivalent, and he`s coming to pick it up tomorrow.........

     

    Guess it`s a good thing I get the 999s on Saturday......

  5. I've toured a 1972 Norton, 1986 MG Lemans, 1990 VFR, 1998 CRR900RR, 2000 VTR 1000 Superhawk, 2000 V-11 Sport, 2005 'busa, and now setting up a 2005 Duc 999.

     

    Camping/touring on a motorcycle is great 1-up in groups large enough to distribute the camping gear. Been there, done that, got the tee-shirt and moved on. For me, motorcycle touring is a matter of enjoying the scenery or the asphalt if it's twisty, and travelling 100-500 miles between clean sheets, hot tubs and decent restaurants.

     

    Loading up a 400 lb bike with 500 lb of gear seems to me, contradictory to the basic concept of the enjoyment of 2 wheels. If I wish to spend some weeks in the bush, I'll hitch up the 5th-wheel RV to the pick-em-up, load the box with beer and steak and go hide out under a tree with a fishing pole.

     

    To each his own.........

  6. Try reversing the compression/rebound settings. I bet you'll prefer the ride with more compliant bounce response and the damping shifted to the rebound (jounce) side of the cycle.

     

    Change the rear too if you have it set compression dominant.

  7. I'm definitely interested in the Durrani wheels. I also sent an email.

     

    UPDATE:

     

    Sheryar Durrani, the founder and Chief Engineer of DES, called me back.

     

    A group purchase from even as little as 4-5 forum members would make it affordable, especially considering the other brands.

     

    It sounds like the price would come under the competition even when they have to add some initial costs to add the shaft drive model to their lineup.

     

    I sent Sheryar a link to this forum topic.

    I didn't get a call, but I'm still in if they build the adapters for the V-11.

  8. I don't quite understand that bit about under-filling by using the overflow hole.... At that level the ring gear appears to be immersed. If that's true, it will fling oil over everything that needs oil in the housing. If that action displaces enough oil to uncover the ring gear, it will be because the oil is everywhere else in there.

     

    Please advise................

  9. why not Carbon Fiber? hmmmm BST wheels with some kind of adapter would be nice

    .........................

    I mean I know its pretty much lipstick on a pig but if youre talking about spendin the money, why not SPEND the money ^_^

    Lipstick on a pig!!! baaahaaaahaaahaaaa!

  10. Do you find the lever gets closer to your grip, or less close?

    Is your reach fo the lever about the same?

    The pivot point of the lever is definitely further from the handlebar, but since both OEM and this Brembo radial m/c levers are adjustable for reach, you can set them where you like.

     

    This pivot point location might be the issue, but something certainly feels different.

  11. Well Tracey, mine did the same thing until I put in that new battery. It doesnt do it anymore. Take your battery to Autozone to have it tested. I'm sure its fine to check all the other stuff to but I would do the easy thing first.

    +1.... a dying battery can create very weird responses from the charging system.

     

    Be certain to check for clean/tight ground points on the wiring harness.

  12. Well. After some track days my Gbox is turned to nightmare. Shifting from 5th to 4th gear is nearly impossible. It clicks but the gear doesnt goes on. Hell. So I have to open the Gbox and see whats wrong. In Gbox oil there is a lot of aluminium dust therefore I fear the worst. I know how to get the engine off but I have never opened Gbox by my own.

     

    Are there any hints/tips? For what should I look in it? Is it difficult?

     

     

    thx a lot.

     

    Slavek

    Get that section of the manual..... then it's quite simple.

    You will need some tool to hold the input-shaft cog when you remove and replace the large input-shaft nut. I made mine from an old clutch-plate hub and a length of flat-iron.

     

    Replace at least the input shaft and output shaft seals.

     

    Be sure to get a proper sealing compound for the case pieces because there are no gaskets there. I use Yamabond 4, which Yamaha has now replaced with Three Bond TB1194. Loctite 515 is also appropriate.

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