BrianG
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Posts posted by BrianG
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FWIW: I use a Pilot Power front with a D. Strada rear. They wear out at the same time and give a margin of error when trail-braking hard into a corner.
Why didn't you use a straight Diablo, or even a D. Corsa on the front?
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I like the steering damper on my 2000 V-11S. It eliminates the mild head shake I get at around 110 mph on highly crowned pavement.
I have reset/lubed the steering head bearings, balanced the tire, and lowered the front end 10mm on the fork tubes.
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I mounted Diablo Strada tires mid season last year and have about 5000 km on them now. At 5000km the rear tire has flattened somewhat, in the middle and the edges have some evidence of rubber balling up. The front tire appears as new, and shows no evidence of cupping.
From the Michelin Pilot Road tires mounted before, the difference in cornering grip was remarkable, as was wet braking grip. Turn-in was also notably easier.
One thing I have noticed over the years is that pretty much ANY appropriate new tire out performs ANY old tire, likely due at least as much to the new tire's unworn profile and tread as it is to "new or better" technology. YMMV
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Dave, is your Penske installed with the remote damper fitting forward or to the rear?
Mine is forward so that access to the rebound damper control is easy (at the rear).
This leaves the adjustable-length eye easy to access as well, and is how I lengthened the shock.
You are right..... something is amiss... and I suspect that it is my initial measurement....
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Happy to oblige, Brian. But since I've got a custom shock, stiffer than stock 95 Nm spring, preload set to my own target sags, and the shock is 5 mm longer than OEM to start with. . .
Wot value this has in determining the OEM ride height starting point is beyond me. . .
FWIW, here's my benchmark frame o' reference:
I get an unladen, upright & off the side stand, 16 1/4" center-to-center between spindle nut and the rear muffler hanger/frame mount bolt.
How's that compare with yours?
Got home late so I can't post my number right now, but my Penske is length adjustable, now set 5mm longer than stock with a 500 lb spring. (which gives me 15mm of unladen sag).
The point is, with sag where I want it, I get to dial in ride height at the rear, too...... just like you do. With your same-year bike my guess is that we should be in the same ball-park for attitude. I just wanted a friendly reference point.
Thanks for the effort.
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Can you push fluid backward through the clutch master cylinder? With such few miles I would think there is trash in the piston bore or in the check valve portion of the piston.Anything can hold this back from working and give you fits. If you are afraid to disassemble this I will be glad to help. Also please keep ypur posts together and not on two or three different places.
This is often the answer. An air bubble gets trapped in the master cylinder and will not pump out. Set the bars so that the master cylinder's intake port is the highest point of the unit. Suck out the reservoir and force brake fluid back up from the bleed nipple. Tap the master cylinder with a plastic/wood screwdriver handle as it flows..... sometimes this will displace the bubble.
Protect the adjacent paint finishes from errant brake fluid. It is nasty stuff.
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Tom, Brian knows how to measure laden and unladen sags. This isn't wot he's asking about.
Not sure why factory issue ride height might be so important, Brian.
Just call it morbid curiosity. I like to know what changes come from what adjustments, and I'd just like to know what OEM the starting point was.
(the swingarm gives very close to a 1:2 ratio) and you've got the rear ride height change. I added 5 mm shock length on my custom order Wilbers, got +10 mm ride height at the rear. Made a surprisingly large difference to ground clearance, and stopped me dragging the side stand for quite awhile.
Good to know.....
I backed off the shock preload only 2 flats (about 1/4 turn) and (at the same time) lengthened the shock about 5mm, and I lost 10mm of ride height, net. (the 15 mm initial unladen sag increased to 19mm) This doesn't make any sense to me as I expected a net 0 ride height change....
The Penske allows for only 10mm length adjustment and I'm considering adding the remaining 5mm just to get back to where I started....... but I'd just like to know where that puts me from OEM rear ride height.
I might as well get the front datum as well since Traxxion Dynamics worked my forks and replaced the springs/spacers. This is less critical since I have 20mm of unladen sag, which puts me right for the unladen ride height at that end.
So Ratch, ol' buddy, ol' pal..... do me a favor and go measure the distance from the TOP of the rear axle NUT to something......... other than your garage roof!
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Now I've gone and done it! I've gone and messed with two (2) variables at once just because it was easier than taking the thing apart twice to do them one at a time. I altered the shock preload and the shock length (Penske) at the same time, and got a sag change that was unexpected.
All that aside...
I want to know what the standard ride heights are, for each end, of the short-frame (2000) V-11 Sport, to define OEM frame attitude?
That is:
What front-end land mark is measured at what distance from the ground?
What hind-end land mark is measured at what distance from the ground?
I know what altering each does, I just need to know how to get back to the OEM starting point..............
HELP!!
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Has anyone converted to a modern electronic speedo?
Should be straight forward enough....
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We do a fall run from here to Pincher, to Kalispel via East Glacier/ West Glacier, and back. All sport bikes.
Some of the best twisties in western Canada.
Wanna come?
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Where in Alberta??
I have a 2000 V-11 Sport in Edmonton.
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At 19,500 you'd still be talking about a low mileage V-11..............
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From Dan of Traxxion Dynamics: spring specs for The Hyperco’s that they supply for the Penske are 2.25 ID, OD will depend on spring rate. The free length would be either 5” or 6”, depending on the shock body chosen..
This implies that the HyperPro progressive spec'd above by Peter van den Bogaard should work.
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Are there preload adjuster caps for 40MM Marz forks?
My 2000 V-11 Sport has plain caps and I would like adjusters to fine-tune the ride height so that I can get the sag values in the correct bracket once I have the right spring in there.
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Is the above your idea of "invective"?? Wot English meaning of the term are you using, praytell??
Sorry old man... didn't know you'd lost your dictionary.... I'll keep it down to four letters or less from now on, for ya!
Invective
1. vehement or violent denunciation, censure, or reproach.
2. a railing accusation; vituperation.
3. an insulting or abusive word or expression.
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I think Pete should just design a simple bolt-on to relocate the pick-up!
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............. I'll be willing to stand corrected if it's true -- it's simply outta my range of experience -- and I submit that under most circumstances it's extremely rare, with the possible exception of riders who're "Big Un's" of course.
Then corrected you stand....
(and I'm a tiny guy m'self, at 6'2 & 225lb)Brian, if you'd read any of the links I've provided umpteen times as guides to suspension setup, you'd find that using as much of available travel as possible in the fork as well as the shock stroke is certainly the objective of the Pro's I've cited. I've followed the principles in these links without exception to the best of my knowledge and ability. As I mentioned above, I'm getting 115 mm out of the available 120 mm fork travel possible in the Marz 040 fork. I've hammered it pretty hard over some rough ground at some walloping speeds, and (again) it's never exceeded 115 mm travel by the zip-tie I keep on the fork leg for the purpose of monitoring this (as many will do for the same purpose).There ya go, mate! I knew that we basically agreed on this topic.......
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Wrong. As I b'lieve you've experienced yourself, Dave, when forks are severely undersprung for the load they're subjected to (probably the most typical suspension mismatch problem there is), you can ride around on the air spring at a tiny fraction of available suspension travel and never bottom out. I've seen countless riders who do this for years and years. Come to think of it, this is exactly wot you did with your Marz fork before replacing the whole thing, Dave.
Depending on the rate and load, the ride will be to some degree harsh and jarring, but due to the rising rate of the air spring, it's virtually impossible to bottom most modern forks, barring a crash, in which case bottoming out ain't usually part of anybody's concerns anyway. Come on now Ratch..... you gotta share whatever it is you've been smoking lately!
Your fusilade of personal invective not withstanding..... and left unanswered...........
Can't bottom on the "air spring"?? That's just garbage..... Every fork I've looked into spec's an airspace that continues to exist when the tube bottoms, and it's not just a few mm's... it's 10's of mm's .... up to 100+mm's in some. In fact, every fork I've worked on spec's the airspace with the slider bottomed. So there's LOTS of opportunity to compress the entrapped air sufficiently to bottom your "severely undersprung" fork, in any decent pothole. And yes... I've been there, done that.
If you've actually been listening to the track-side "suspension tuners" of the day, their goal is "compliance"..... that is, to set the suspension to use as much of the available travel as possible, with as few bottoming/topping events as possible (but not necessarily zero).
Arguably, for most of us road warriors the goal might be just slightly less than zero..... but just.
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........Changing spring rates can make the kinds of differences on the road that're properly classified as "transformational".............
Ya, I doubt it...... that is, within the laden sag range I mentioned.
Particularly when you consider the effect of variable damping rates added into the equation... as I mentioned and you conveniently ignored...
I also think there could be something wrong with the front fork. When I am on the bike, I push the fork down and release it, I hear a click.What do you think? knownothing.gif
.......... But what about that click in the front forks, what could that be?
If you have not isolated that "click" to the fork leg I'd bet a big fat steak that it's your head bearing..... a bit too loose and likely greaseless!
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This thread is either humorous or pathetic.......
Mostly because there's not a rider amongst us that could actually tell the difference between the performance given at 50/50 or 2/3 or 25/75 when ya throw in some damping variables...... never mind this silly arguing over trivial variances theoretically espoused by the "suspension experts". :rolleyes
If you're not bottoming or topping out, and both ends rise and fall together, Bob's your uncle.......
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......................... has evidently confused changes in fuel pressure with a direct correlation to changes in fuel flow rate through the injectors.
Naughty! Mustn't do that. . . 
By "direct" do you mean 1:1, or do you simply mean that there is no correlation?
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I think the nice end is iud removal tool the other end is a cock ring for migets and butt plug removal
I think your pressurization system is failing.......
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Laminar pack is the laminated metallic stator core........ normally isolated (insulated) from the stator windings. Also normally, the stator core is at chassis ground, that is... not isolated from the chassis.
Continuity with a stator winding connection would indicate a winding short-circuit.
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If it doesn't come on with the ignition (as designed), you got a clinker.
DOH!!
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Thanks for the extra acreage, but I'm not sure that we really want most of Washington, Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, and Minnesota!