BrianG
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Posts posted by BrianG
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Loosen up the tappet clearance to Eropean specs, and put the TPS back to where it was before.
Steve
+1
Mine was doing this same thing and I wasted a whole day messing with the Fi system, thinking it had to be that. Nothing made much difference.
I then thought to check the tappet clearance. It was way too tight, so I se it to Euro Specs and the reset the FI specs....
NO MORE BUCKING!
THEN I read the instructions..... "Set valve clearance before setting FI ....."
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I like the fact that the 6's stay nice and clean, contributing to easy starting.
I have noticed no tendency to ping with my recent change to a richer fueling map, drilled air-box and Mistral cans.
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I am having an intermittant starting problem with my '04 V11. Occasionally on start up, after two or three roll-overs the starter will grind to a stop before the engine fires up. Typically this happens when the engine is cold--never with a hot engine/oil. Sounds and acts as if the battery is low, though if I wait a minute or two then hit the starter button again, the bike usually will start. I have a new Odyssey battery that takes and holds a full charge. I had a draw-down test done on it to confirm that the battery is 100%. Checked the bikes charging output and it is just shy of 15 volts--right where is should be according to the shop manual. All the connections to the battery and at the starter are tight and clean.
At this point I am thinking that the starter (for unknown reasons) sometimes draws exccessive current, exceeding the battery's cranking capacity. Has anyone else had a similar problem, or have any ideas on how to proceed??????
Many Thanks
1. Check the battery connections for tightness. (particularly the ground)
2. Check the starter connections for tightness. (particularly the ground)
3. Swap in known-good starter relay.
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+1000.
I propose that Dlang and Ratch formally wed one another . . .
Wot??? They aren't married????
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I just completed a HID installation in my 2000 V-11 Sport.
The trouble with H4 replacement HID units is that the mechanical hi-lo shift device behind the HID bulb is too long to fit in the V-11 nacelle. I ended up using a less preferreed HID option.... that which piggybacks a quartz bulb for high beam along with the HID bulb which stays on all the time. The high-beam selection is not significantly different than the low beam setting as the quartz bulb is pretty weak.
That said, the HID provided MUCH more light than the OEM unit.
There and many "color" options in HID lighting. The higher the "temperature/color" rating number, the more "violet" the output color. If you prefer a less-blue color from your headlight, pick a "color" in the 4000 range. 6000 is very blue. 7000 is quite violet.
Old eyes like cooler light.....
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Maybe I'm missing something but....perhaps you just found the nature of the bike.
Cos crank runs down bike back to front, when it spins up it (along w/flywheel) exerts a force. On right handers on throttle it'll pull you down into the corner, on left handers it'll feel like it wants to sit up. Chop the throttle in a left hander & it'll fall in more, chop it in a right hander & it'll lift...I think i've got that the right way round but don't be too sure, I'm trying to picture it in my head....try it & see...carefully. Take off over a humpback bridge & it'll want to spin round the crank....well slightly...Big twin Guzzis have always been like this. It helps to settle the bike on an even throttle thru corners. Learn how the bike responds to throttle leant over & you can use to adjust your line - but Guzzis respond best to smooth riding.
There's no such thing as good BT20s!!! If you ride in a sporting manner get some better tyres at earliest oportunity!
And - welcome to Guzzis!
KB
+1.... if it's quite subtle......
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An '86 Lemans was my first Moto Guzzi. It's a great bike and certainly a MG classic. You might want to disconnect the coupled brakes if the previous owner(s) haven't done that yet, but if it's still coupled ride it that way for a bit. It's certainly interestsing!
Be careful in your first hard right turn. When you roll on the throttle the engine torque will want to throw you down on the ground while the back end jacks up from driveshaft torque. A very weird thing the first time you experience it!
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As a cyclist I would like to add something anecdotally. Over the years I have had friends and acquaintances hit by cars, two of them killed when riding after dark with full lights and high viz clothing. I have yet to hear of any cyclist who has been hit or injured when riding at night without lights or high viz clothing.
I have my own ideas about this but would be interested if anyone has any confirmation of my observations, or theories that could account for them (other than I'm just another demented Guzzi nut).
My money goes on the concept of "target fixation". As motorcyclists we know that you hit what you look at. It works for cars and aircraft as well.
Draw too much attention and you become an unwitting target. My personal philosophy is "be apparent but not obtrusive". Seems to have worked for 40 yrs of motorcycling. That and "Presume that every cager is actually out there looking to kill you."
This target fixation thing argues against those pulse-light headlight modulators.......... plus they are ghey!
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I too was amazed at the difference that the change to Golden Spectro 125/150 SYNTH CARTRIDGE FORK FLUID made in the forks of the 900RR as well as the Marz Guzzi, although I never did get as low as 5w in dino oil in my experimentation.
The biggest difference in the Marz forks resulted from the installation of a AK-20 Axxion Cartridge Kit and 1.10 kg springs
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Why put Metzeler Z6 or Pirelli Diablo Strada on a sporty bike like the V11LeMans? OK, I agree that they last longer and are also very good on rain, but Metzeler M3 Sportec are softer, safer and give you more angle to bent. A sport touring pair of tires for a sport touring bike. Personally I find them excellent also on wet roads. And if you are thinking of track days....these are excellent too. A great balance between sporty mood, safety (wet roads) and longevity.
Safer?? How do you get that?
I have Diablo Strada's on my V-11 and chase my son and his 'busa around the mountains all day long. Great stick with nice progressive indication of traction threshold. Clean recovery from slippage with no risk of hi-side. Excellent wet road performance. Decent wear characteristics. Great tires for a heavy sport bike!
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That will bring the kg/hp ratio just barely in the lines of your Guzzi
Well, thanks a hell-of-a-lot raz!!
Makes all the effort seem so worth-while!!!
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Well Brian, I'm not sure your assumption is necessarily warranted here. It seems you're putting 40 year old Guzzi valve springs in the same category with today's springs. Since the days of the mighty Ambo, generally speaking, valve spring manufacturing and performance have improved a great deal. As far as motion being the only possible cause of spring fatigue, and a fully compressed spring (valve fully open) left for decades in a barn being immune from fatigue? Seems more'n a bit implausible. It'd be a new one on me, and contrary to wot many have observed upon restoring old motors (myself included -- a Norton and a BSA from the '60's come to mind, British spring steel of that era not being the best, not to mention US and European 4, 6 and and 8 cyl car motors of the same era), but then I learn somethin' new here every day. . .
No assumption.
A spring compressed to any point short of deformation will not take a set.
Implausible to the non-engineer or not Ratch.... it's the fact.
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I think he died. Haven't heard a word from him since I sent him a hand full of paid-for Roper plates.......
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Hey porsche with a snoter puffer is very cool and fun. Never got to play with a supercharged one. Thats a 928 right? One of my techs has one there pretty nice but a nightmare when they break down.
They are like any other 80's high tech exotic that operates on relays.......... a stupid PITA to troubleshoot.
My goal is to take this '87 928 from the stock 330hp to 500hp @ 10 psi....... What's that I hear ticking???
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Sorry Ratch.... ol' buddy but your clearly off in the toolies on this one. That is IF the springs are made out of high quality spring steel, which I'll assume good old Guzzi parts are.
Fact is that spring steel fatigues from motion. It is the repetitive stress of the load-unload cycle that does in the crystaline structure of the metal. A good quality spring compressed to any point short of deformation will not take a set.
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Going To The Sun Road -Montana Rockies
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Take superlative performance to another level.
http://www.guzzitech.com/store/TR-DirectLink.html $298 US
http://www.tuneboy.com.au/ $399 AUD
http://jefferies-au.org/MyECU/index.htm $250-$620 AUD
To each their own.
Perhaps after I get this sorted.... Reprogramming new ECU maps sucks! ....................................but forced induction is nice !!
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The good news is, there's no need to check it. Now if you want to re-program it, there are those hereabouts who will be pleased to advise how to do this with devices that cost more than several used moto's I've had and enjoyed for years. To each his own. Timing is pre-set, triggered off the phase sensor on the cam sprocket, and regulated by the various sensors.
Sweet.... another maintenance item out the window!
Almost makes sync'ing the TB's and setting the TPS worth the exchange!
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I can't find TDC marks or anything through that little hole in the bell housing.
So, absent timing marks, how do you set/check baseline ignition timing?
I didn't see anything that would index the crank flange to the flywheel, but then again I wasn't really looking because I made my own paint marks on dis-assembly, so it buttons up exactly as it comes apart. It wasn't until I was looking for timing marks (TDC), after reassembly, that I discovered that they weren't where I expected. It runs fine so it's no big deal.... certainly not enough to crab the bugger again.....
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Greg, in the first post you made reference to the older V-11's with no header-crossover possibly being affected differently by the Stucci / Mistral crossovers, due to the differing sizes of the confluence sections. Have you made any determination about this possibility?
My 2000 V-11 is of the no header-crossover design.
I am ready to order a crossover, but still a little uncertain about which one. I am leaning toward the Mistral at this moment in favor of some more midrange grunt.
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I cannot, for the life of me, find the timing mark on my 2000 V-11 Sport. I did the clutch last year and was careful to realign the flywheel to the position in which I found it, but it did become apparent that the clutch had been done before I got there, so I guess it could have been clocked.....
Is there some mark I am missing?
I can do the degree-wheel / piston stop method to determine a new TDC mark for the current position of the flywheel, but I'd like to avoid this PITA proceedure if possible......
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As for the indiators, if there is room you couldn't you put 2 LED's in,(one for each direction) ?
I think you would have some trouble fitting 2 LED units into that vicinity of the annunciator panel, but it's an idea.
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You can replace all of the bulbs in there with LED units EXCEPT the signal light indicator. That circuit reverses polarity to the bulb for each direction, so a LED will give you indication for only one direction or the other.......
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Let us know how you like them!
I had the left side bar-end weight turned down to fit one and couldn't get used to it, either.
So I now have a CGR mirror and custom bar-end weight sitting in the bins. Anyone interested in giving it a go, give me a shout.
On upside, I now have big, fat, shiny, stainless steel, Throttlemeister units in place!
Roper's an idiot.
in Technical Topics
Posted
That Roper is an idiot should be more than apparent to most people by now!
After putting his stupid sump plate I no longer have any indication that my oil pressure light is functional!!