richard100t
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Posts posted by richard100t
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I just went through the air pods thread & found what I wanted. The K&N pod that fits right on the TB. It looks really cool without the side covers! Now I just have to buy the filters & wait for warmer weather! Btw does the bike have to be remapped with the pod setup?
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I took the side covers off my RM today because they are probably not replaceable if damaged. I like the more bare look a lot! Of course theres some sort of airbox contraption hooked up to the carbs. Sorry it got dark out & I had to quit playing with it lol. My question is do I need to remove the tank? At this point the answer is almost certainly yes. I assume the airbox is under the tank & thats when I'll get a better idea of what to do. If anyone has some nice side pics of the k&n filter setup I'd really appreciate it if you'd post me a link
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Argh :!: The weather forecast here in Ohio says my bike will be parked for the next week solid
I may as well work 7 days a week right now. At least it would keep my mind off the bike & vacation (sort of). I get 4 weeks paid vacation this year & I've been torturing myself in here plus looking at cool bike riding roads in the tri state area. Hopefully my 
wont have too many 
gremlins when I decide to take a week off & just goooo. I just have to remind myself to check the areas that may need top be greased. Its too damned cold out in my garage to play with it much right now. -
I agree and I did ask the dealer who asked MGNA and in turn recieved no reply as to whether there should be a logo or something.
Someday I may just make my own label. I have an acquaintance who works at his family trophy shop. They are installing a new piece of equipment that uses plasma cutting technology to engrave and it is supposed to look considerably better than the usual engravings. If I get one done I shall post a photo.
That sounds like a really good idea Jim
Heres what I think happened at the factory.... Hey Luigi you gotta those numba plates ready? Whaddaya mean numba plates? I dont know nuttin bout no stinkin number plates! 
If a anyone asks justa givem one a dese 
lol have a good one 
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Not all the bikes have a "logo" or anything else there.... it just depends on the model.
On the Rosso Mandello, I believe that if yours is one of the first 300 of the "limited edition" versions, you would have a number plate there. If you have one of the .... MG: "well, gosh... we sold a whole bunch of the limited edition RMs, so why don't we just make a couple hundred more" version... then you won't have a plate there.
MG made 300 limited edition versions, then followed on another few hundred more, un-numbered, making the RM not so "limited" anymore
al
I have the limited edition #74. It says that on the sides but no # plate there.
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I was just curious about the carbon fibre instrument cluster area. I have noticed that some other guzzis have the eagle emblem in the center area. My bike has a raised area where the logo should be....but no eagle
Has anyone else with a Mandello noticed this? -
God I just love this site :!: If I can think of it someones already done it, & knows all about it
Thanx guys -
I was thinking about getting the fbf eliminator kit, so I looked at my bike. The tekno bag mounts are attached to the rear fender! Will I have to remove the bags & brackets to have the eliminator kit? What a shame! I love those bags too....I plan on travelling this summer. Any advice or thoughts on this?
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What is a val 1 with heads up display? Sounds like I might need one! lolHere goes Al, the Lemans has 31,000 miles...the FJR has 2200.
the FJR is a great bike, just not for me.It has tons of power and torque,huge gas tank, shaft drive. After riding old FJ's and now the LeMans, the FJR seems like riding a Goldwing. Its a japanese sewing machine.
The riding position for me is to upright. Funny that everyone wanted to raise the bars even more...the are a bunch of kits available....and I was looking for some clipons or something. 
even bought the Spiegler superbike bar kit. Might have worked better with a drag bar.didn't change riding position that much.anyway, the LD guys love the bike and as Warchild says there are tons of "farkels" 
to do on the FJR.It's been said many times on this forum and other places and I agree...There isn't a motorcycle made that has as much character as a Moto Guzzi
!!!I rode from Nashville to West Palm Fl last nov and had a flawless trip. We ran 90 and 100 the whole way down( i do have a val 1 with heads up display
) and the bike never missed a beat. I got about 38 to 40 mpg and had a blast 
...Hope that was what you were looking for
later andy
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Could have been underfilled at the dealership(possibly) or mine ate up a quart of oil from the time I bought it till I got the oil changed at 3,800 to 8,000mi I should have checked it more but the dip is hard to use and read and I'm on it more now with an extra quart in the garage incase. If you are low you will probably hear some extra noise at startup tho its hard to explain guzzis make so much noise as it is. I ALSO join the cabin fever I've had mine out twice and put on an extra 150mi since I got her out of the storage almost a month ago. Minnesota is not rider friendly but I swear to god there are some real crazies here it doesn't matter what the weather is someone somewhere in this state is on a motorcycle. I promise you that much. its fffreaky.
I know what you mean about the crazies :!: I think we have at least 2 more bad weeks here in Ohio, but after that its allllll good lol
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Crappy dipstick can be improved by rubbing the edges between the ad and fill marks with rough sandpaper.
Hope you did not overfill the pan. The level is supposed to be checked with the bike vertical and the dipstick is to be screwed all the way in. Evidence of overfilling will present itself inside the airbox.
My bike seems to be happiest with the oil level half way between the add and full marks.
Thanx for the advice Whitaker : ) I checked it the way you said & its right on the full line. I guess that meant it was a quart low <_ .>
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Almost 60 degrees yesterday. I had time to get the bike out, adjust the suspension, check the oil with that crappy dipstick <_ . i rode around town for an hour then it got dark cold. today was back in the lol. next warm day she gets a wash wax promise src="%7B___base_url___%7D/uploads/emoticons/default_whistle.gif" alt=":whistle:">
Oh btw my Mandello has just under 500 miles on it. Is it unusual to need about a quart of oil during break in? I put a quart in it & it brought the level to where I hope it should be. I'm going to go check it again today while its cold. Ok I'll check back in later. Richard -
You might want to make sure all your fuses match the cover.
Maybe someone mixed up a ten and a fifteen.
For the early bikes, the eight fuses are listed below:
FUSE “1”: ECU ....................................................... 5 A
FUSE “2”: Injector coil pump ................................. 10 A
FUSE “3”: Battery recharging ................................ 30 A
FUSE “4”: Key switch ............................................ 10 A
FUSE “5”: High beam, low beam, horn, start, stop 15 A
FUSE “6”: Dipped lights ........................................... 5 A
FUSE “7”: Direction indicators ................................. 5 A
FUSE “8”: Solenoid valve (Electrical valve) .............. 5 A
Thats just how my fuse cover reads. I double checked ty
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Thanks for the help guys
I checked all the other fuses & they are the right ones. How many of you pulled the seat off & checked yours? lol I was thinking a lower amp fuse than what is called for wont hurt anything. But if they put a 30 amp where a 10 amp goes....now that may cause some damage :!: -
Sounds like high 80's hp is the most you can reasonably get from these motors without spending big money. Thats fine with me, a duc is a duc, & a Goose is a Goose lol If speed was all I wanted I couldve gotten the Hayabusa for about the same or less money.
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If you blew a 10A, then you might want to check/cleanup your grounds because even with a starter that's a lot of amps.
The Guzzi factory has a reputation for putting whatever is at hand into the machines. Maybe the 15A fuse was too far away, and hey- here's a 10A! That oughta work just fine.
Your probably right about the "whatever is at hand" thing. I work in a factory & that does happen! 15 amps may be a lot but thats what the box cover & the manual both say should be in that slot. I just came back in from a short ride.....about 3 miles, & it seems fine. Page 166 of the owners manual says slot f5 high beams, low beams, start, stop (15a). I dont want to damage a new bike in any way :!: If anyone else knows of this please post me a note 
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I just checked my fuses after my bike wouldnt start. Turns out the headlamp fuse burned out. There was a 10 amp fuse in there, and the manual & fuse box cover clearly state that it takes a 15 amp fuse. After I put in the "right" 15 amp fuse it cranked right up. Anyone else notice this problem?? I wonder why it ever worked right in the first place? Probably just part of the break in aka fixing the factories errors
Now let me just hope that single plate clutch is good... lol -
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Too bad Jim Fueling died: he was able to produce pushrod 4-valve heads for the Sposta, so I doubt he'd have had much trouble adapting the design for a Goose. IIRC, the Sposta heads ran to about $2000, installed. That's certainly sustainable for someone who's looking for a serious performance upgrade to the V11 motor, since it's real stumbling block is breathing. At $1000/head, it's certainly justifiable, given that just porting the 2-valve heads to get them to breath as well as an assembled 4v casting should do runs to a significant percentage of that price. At $5000? That price/performance figure is harder to justify; essentially, you're looking at the far side of the Laffer curve there; by achieving a lower price, the number of units sold will more than offset the lower profits/unit.
While it would be nice if the factory could figure out how to make the Hi-Cam motor again, I can't say that doing so is their only hope for the future: making reliable 4-valve push-rod heads that can just be slapped onto the current engine design will buy them time to do research into a water-cooled engine, while rejuvenating the existing model line by making the old air-cooled mill more comparable to competing models in the all-important hp spec. And if this was a factory solution, owners of current V11 models could shell out the ducats to retrofit with no compunctions about warrantee issues, vendor sustainability, etc.
Keep talking, I'm all ears!
I would love to see 4 valve heads on the market for $1000 a piece! I'm not a mechanic, but dont you have to get a new cam to go with them plus you know lol that while its apart your going to wanna drop in higher compression pistons etc. I can see it getting near $5k real fast
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Just got back from riding around town. My Mandello is getting closer to 500 miles on it & that thing is just getting smoother & better with every mile
I'm so happy I picked for my next bike. I dont know if its going to have any of the problems the other 01's have had, but for now I think they got this one right I hope its warmer tomorrow, I'm going to try a little around the corners. I'm startting to see why you guys are so passionate about your bikes :!: The only thing I dont understand is why everyone doesnt have one lol -
I'm not planning anything......yet lol Maybe when the bike has 30k miles on it I may. I didnt know there were such kits available. As for now I need to pay the bike off first, worry about the bolt on goodies later
Intake Mods: No "Lid" versus Pods
in Technical Topics
Posted
Thanx Ben
