Dan M

3M #07447 Scotchbrite Type A very fine. To be honest, I used this because that is what we keep on the shelf. Stainless steel is hard enough that fine or medium would probably work just as well.

It's easier than you think Doug. Just use a medium scotch-brite pad. As txrider said, polish around the circumference, not along the length. You will easily get through the brown / blue to a nice silver finish that will gradually golden. About a year ago I did this then polished them to a near chrome finish. The polishing is kind of a waste of time though, just the scotch-brite finish looks great. This past winter I freshened them up with a scotch brite pad and that's all they need. This pic is after about 250 miles since the scotch-brite job. Like weej said, get a couple of beers ready.

Dave makes a good point about the shaft being put back in alignment if it was off before. Vibration from the shaft would increase with vehicle speed but engine speed should have no effect. There are a few reasons new tires make a difference too, and sometimes they work together. Uneven wear, flat center wear will cause the bike to vibrate and weave at speed. Balance changes as they wear too. New, balanced tires that are perfectly round make all the difference>

That's an odd one Sean. Who knows how the stuff got in there. Unless your cap was open for awhile it is unlikely very much got inside. I wouldn't worry too much about it. There is a strainer screen inside the tank at the valve and it would take quite a bit to clog it. If you are worried or if your bike runs like it is starving for fuel then pull the tank and drain it. Remove the valve/strainer (two bolts) and clean it. No big deal. Be sure to clean the O-ring when you reinstall to prevent leaks.

Try it again. Oops no words.

My condolences too Rich. They're part of the family, nothing childish here.

I agree with Jon, if it is installed under no stress it shouldn't crack. (and you do need to take your time to fit it properly) That said, I did add a bracket to mine that incorporates the original U shaped hanger. No cracks yet.

Ditto what he said. Excellent rain traction.

Finally got all the plastic back, assembled and buffed. I'm very happy with the result. So far as the pistons go. It is tough to get a seat of the pants comparison since I haven't rode the V11 since December. But here is what I do know. The idle was about 200 rpm higher after the pistons. The only other thing I did over the winter is remove the air box snorkels and cut two 1" holes in the lid. (would have no effect on idle speed) On the road she runs very strong and today I rode about 200 miles with several of my regular riding mates. One guy has a 07 S2R that I had trouble keeping with last year. Today through a series of 4th gear sweepers and then a long straight he was hanging with me but could not catch up He said later that at high speed (100-120MPH) he was losing ground. Now it is entirely possible that he was sand bagging me but the V11 just felt more crisp especially at higher revs. One more thing, I broke it in like I stole it. I'm getting some pics together to post.

Yea they're really great tires. I'm surprised your rear is worn down ahead of the front. I have them on my RT and see the off center wear but is more noticeable on the front. I chose the Pirelli Diablo Stradas for the V11 (the old: Italians should wear Italian shoes) and like them just as much. Very similar warm up, all weather grip and longevity as the Z6s I believe both of these tires have a harder long life compound in the center wear area, hence the off center wear pattern.

You are absolutely right Guy. Too much work and not enough play. Of course I work 50+ hours a week 50 weeks a year but I sure would like to retire in sunny Italy.

If it is the actual prototype then why the spoke wheels, the non factory crossover, and the non factory fairing & forks? Would the factory put "LIMITED EDITION" on the side cover rather than "LeMans"? Why would one modify a historic prototype?

A good friend dropped off his 07 Ducati S2R for installation of exhaust yesterday. While I was at it I noticed a nickel sized drop of oil under it. This bike has 1800 miles and was serviced at the dealer at about 900 miles. I took a look and oil was dripping from the filter. The filter is external but resides in a well and is tough to get a hand on much like a BMW oilhead. I did not remove it and check the brand, I did not measure the seal or test the rubber for resistance to crush or flex strength. No calculations were done for filter stretch under pressure or what direction the oil swirled internally unscrewing the whole works. I just got a wrench on it and easily gave it a half turn. Problem solved. This filter did not loosen, it just was not installed tight enough. This problem can happen to any engine that uses spin on filters. As I wrote before, it is not the brand of filter or engine, it is the INSTALLER. If the threads are wrong then it is still the installer's fault for not noticing. I've seen loose filters many, many times. Almost always, not too long after they are installed they start to drip slowly. The more time that goes by, the more they leak and then have the tendency to loosen. The only problem with the internal filter that we have on the V11 is you don't know if it is leaking. If you tightened it sufficiently there is nothing to worry about. If you doubt your ability to tighten then clamp it. Spin on oil filters have to be tight. That means turning it 3/4 to 1 full turn after the oiled gasket makes full contact. 10ft-lbs may not be enough. if your gasket has a dry spot, 10ft-lbs will leave your filter quite loose. Sometimes if you can't get a good angle or good hand hold you will not get it tight enough by hand either. If it turns 3/4 to 1 turn quite easily then turn it some more. IT HAS TO BE TIGHT. I don't like it. I have never heard of or read in any factory manual using lock tight on oil filter threads. If it is written I'd like to see it. My only worry is what consistancy of snot does floating locktight turn into in hot oil, be it synthetic or dino, and where will it end up?

Joe, as others have said the shift linkage is likely the culprit being either loose or dirty. If cleaning, lubing, adjusting does not help then the arm inside the trans cover may not be returning to center after shifting into second. You can tell if this is happening because the shifter will feel like it is not "pulling" into the next gear. Almost feels like it is not connected to anything when it acts up. If this is the case the cure is as easy as removing the cover, cleaning out all of the black paste that has accumulated in the old fluid and changing to Redline Shockproof.

"The Shrine" - - My wife once referred to my motorcycle only garage as "the chapel"

Fine job Rich. Looks better than new

Nice pics & report Orson. I was fortunate enough to ride Tuscany & Umbria in 2005. Thanks for refreshing my memory.

This sounds like a super deal for such quality. How much for the high quality, fully adjustable, stainless steel hose clamp that is required for proper installation?

A crossover will make it a little louder and a little more raspy. I thought my bike sounded best with the CF mufflers and stock crossover. It is a tad loud now with the CF cans and FBF crossover. Nothing too excessive and worth the performance gain.

Very nice bike. I like just about every modification.

Ben, I just called my local jobber. He has a 6X1 Helicoil kit on hand. That is the inserts and the installation tool for $35. (you'd need the drill bit) If you are striking out locally, PM me and I'll get it and mail it to you. I have a business so you can even pay by C Card. I'm in Chicago so you would likely have it by Saturday.

Ben, As the others have said, Heli-coil is the way to go. It is quite easy and you'll get several in the kit for next time Tip: put some heavy grease around the hole to catch the shavings while readying the hole for the heli-coil. That'll keep them out of your engine. Get a set of T-handle allen wrenches. You'll get those 6mm fasteners plenty tight and reduce the chance of stripping.

If you can not detect a problem then there is no problem I would continue doing it if I were you. If the rotor faces are out of parallel to each other the effect is the caliper piston gets shoved in when on the thick part of the rotor and is allowed to come back out in the thin part. What that would mean to you is a pulsating brake lever, and a grab & release sensation when slowing. Doesn't sound like you have any of that so continue on man! Besides on a dirt bike you are not generating near the braking force or the heat that you are on your V11.