Zoom Zoom

It's not just for breakfast anymore :!: Zoom Zoom, John henry

This is nothing new. I saw these things several years ago. They'll not see any of my $$$$ !! Zoom Zoom, John Henry

I would be a little wary of leaving it off completely only because I have gotten gas in the summer when the fuel is cooler due to underground storage, only to have it expand and leak out the overflow/vent. I guess I would rather have dripping from a hose out the bottom than onto the engine or transmission. On my old Hondas, that ended up coming out the fuel cap and running all over the gas tank. Not good. The Y connection sounds like a good idea to me. Both lines would be going to the bottom of the bike anyway. Providing an easy location to pull it apart seems pretty logical. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

There should be a record of any recalls, and completed recalls, based on the vin number of the bike. I'm stepping out on a limb here, but a dealer ought to be able to reference that information. I don't know if a private individual could or not. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

I was told when I put the M4's on mine that I probably didn't need remaping. However, the rest of the intake/ exhaust system is completely stock. Those things may have been altered on your bike too. So, that makes your question a bit hard to answer. As to the work involved, it is pretty quick and simple to swap out the mufflers. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

Thanks again. I now have the Very Cool LeMans splash screen on my Quest. It was very easy. Perhaps at some point, I'll figure out how to get my LeMans onto that screen, or send you a pic for modification. Now, about that 265 KMH..... I am impressed. For us MPH folks here in the US, that is 164MPH. As I said, I am impressed! I am curious, is the bike stock, or has there been modifications? Zoom Zoom, John Henry

Very Cool!!! I'll have to bring in my Quest tomorrow night to try this. Thanks! Zoom Zoom, John Henry

Actually, they are only semi floating rotors. Cleaning the buttons will help a little but will probably not be the final solution. Full floating rotors will literally rattle in the carrier. I went through this with my EV. I finally replaced the rotors with the 5mm full floaters and have had no more trouble. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

I assume you mean "extra bits" as defining the two spots that extend inward. That gasket looks to be the same one that adorns the regular big block Guzzi engines. As such, there will be two bolts per extra bit that needs to be removed along with the bolts around the edges. The other holes in the extra bits are oil passages. Should be 14 around the edges, (inside the sump), and the four I just mentioned. 18 in all. As already mentioned, after you remove the first piece of the sump, (the bottom piece, if you will), you need to remove the "next section", which uses that gasket between the block and it. The larger gasket fits between the extention and the bottom. In actuality, you could in theory, eliminate the bottom stuff all together, which would include the oil cooler, and use a sump off a regular big block Guzzi. Of course that makes the sidestand unuseable, but you could lean the bike against a tree everywhere you stop. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

I have been following this thread and I now feel compelled to offer up my . To begin with, the tips and tricks offered up here are simply that, weather in this thread, or any other for that matter. Anybody can choose to use them or not. As far as I can recall, there has been nothing suggested that could make a situation worse instead of better. These things are usually a result of something that had been learned the hard way. When I was young, my dad used to say "You can learn it the hard way, or listen to me. I've already learned it the hard way, and I might be able to save you the trouble!" Now, having said that, anybody can take or leave the suggestions that people share here. It's as simple as that! Don't do it if you don't want to. As to oil starvation, I have seen the light come on, maybe 4 times. Believe it or not, any amount of starvation to the bearings will begin to have a detremental effect. It is cumulative, and over time can cause failure. When I was taught to change oil, you make sure the contact surface is clean, you spread a film of oil on the gasket of the new filter so that it gets properly tightened, and you pulled the coil wire and cranked the engine until you built oil pressure. Now here's the rub. If you look at owner manuals for stuff with modern electronic ignition systems, it tells you not to crank the engine with the spark plug wires disconnected as damage could result from doing so. The operative word here is "could", maybe it will and maybe it will not. So the alternative is to not rev or load your engine with insufficent oil pressure, right. That does not mean that no damage is occuring. It means you're minimising it. If your light comes on under acceleration, do you keep cranking on it? No, you pull in the clutch to unload the engine and drop the rpms or kill the engine. Do Petes sloppage sheets work? Time will tell. As was mentioned, Greg has actually put a gauge on his bike, so he will be able to tell if this sheet has made an immediate difference. If you think this sheet is so ineffective, I suggest you look at Summit Racings web site. They sell windage trays for every popular auto engine that is raced on any type of course. Why? Because it helps keep the oil away from the crank, therby increasing horse power, and keeps the oil from frothing up, which can compromise lubrication. If they don't work, how come just about every race engine has one, except of course, a dry sump engine? Why doesn't the auto manufacturers install them from the factory? The answer is $$$$$$$. The average person will never subject their cars to the demands of racing at sustained high rpms or loads. The rest can go to Summit. Have at it, I've gotten in my 2 cents worth. Cheers Zoom Zoom, John Henry

I used to know of a couple of shops that was willing to fix holes in tanks. What they did was to pressurize the tank with an air hose, ie: a constant supply of air that is then escaping out the offending hole. the vapors would then be forced out to burn up in the torch flame. No, I never attempted this myself. For the cost, I was more than happy to pay this guy to do it. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

I agree with Mike. The 30's are good for the everyday stuff, and IMHO, they look better on the bike. In my situation, I can pop the 40's off the EV, (including the top box), and go with them if I feel the need. I know folks do it, but I can't imagine a long trip with the 30's. The practical space of the 40's become much more useful when you're out for two weeks+. I suppose you need to decide what your main purpose will be. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

No worries Pete. I did the PayPal thing to you about the day you left for the UK. Whenever I get it, I get it. No hurry. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

Yes the gromet is the temporary fix. I have no intention of leaving it that way. As to the valve, I can't believe it moved all by itself changing its orientation with vertical, but it may have happened. I will probably replace the vent line back to the bottom of the bike and leave that valve out. That totally resolved the issues with this on the EV. Whay really puzzles me the most is that nothing changed that should/could have caused this. Oh well, I mainly wanted to give you all a heads up that, without warning, the valve can stick, and it can permanently damage the tank. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

After a year of having the LeMans and never having any trouble, I experienced the tank suck issue. I have yet to remove the tank, nor has the bike ever been down or set on its side for maint. The valve simply decided to stick out of the clear blue. Now, when I discovered it, I figured I would keep an eye on it and vent the tank when needed. Within 1 mile of the gas station, the bike began running poorly and I returned home to swap for the EV. Within 3 miles the tank had built up enough vacuum to leave a dent in the tank! The dent is at the bottom edge if the area where your knees go. It's not real bad but I notice it. It also cracked the paint there. Thank goodness it is still under warranty. Thanks to T Whittaker for the quick fix. I'll be removing that valve soon. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

I too have the Nolan N100E. I purchased it 2 years ago at the Cleveland cycle show. I spent the 60 bucks for the sun shield too. Based on the modular helmet reviews that I located on MCN (I think), modulars, when used as directed, protect as well as a conventional full face. The Nolan even passed an impact test after it had already been damaged by the first test. The side deflection of the chin bar was also less that a regular full face. Now, what I mean by "used properly" means they don't want you riding with the helmet hinged open. As to noise, yes, it's noisy. As others here, I'll use ear plugs for the long trips. I did end up removing the sun shield as an experiment. I discovered that it disrupted the air flow to the point that the vents didn't work. With the face shield down and the sun shield removed, the air flow is decent even on a very hot day. Also FWIW: At the time of the review, the Nolan was the only modular that used a metal latch system to lock the helmet closed. The HJC Symax does not use a metal latch, but they could not get it to open up on impact. All in all, I have been very happy with the Nolan. It fits my head shape perfectly and has a removable interior that can be washed. I would recomend it. (I too would opt for the newer N102 because of the improvements.) YMMV Zoom Zoom, John Henry

Steve, keep an eve out for Guzzi gatherings if you need to have some face to face with Guzzi folks. MGNOC has a web site that lists the rallies and other gatherings, as well as a link to another Guzzi board. The Virginia rally is coming up in a bit more than a week. Buena Vista. It's right on the Blue Ridge, close to I-81 and I-64. There is usually a good turn out and you would have many people and bikes to savor. Guzzi people really don't care too much what you ride in on. Just don't show up on a sunday, as people are packing to go home. Guzzis seem to have a personality or "soul" if you will. It is something intangable yet it's there. After 65,000 miles on my EV since I bought it new in 2001, I still get excited when I take off on it. More than 4,500 miles on the LeMans since last spring and I still have the same feeling about that. To me, they are more than the sum of their parts. I enjoy riding my '75 Honda too, but it doesn't move the soul like the Guzzis do. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

I believe he is infatuated with Yellow! Congrats Pete! Zoom Zoom, John Henry

Congratulations, A nice bike indeed. Enjoy. You're allready about half way to complete break in. It'll just get better. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

Very nice! Congrats! Only because someone asked about it, the TI pipes are upswept more than the stock cans. If I recall, there is a shorter bracket for the mounting. I was considering the Ti cans, however, I would not be able to use the HB bags any more. I suppose I have gotten spoiled having some lockable, wearher tight space. Congratulations again! Zoom Zoom, John Henry

OK Greg, you have peaked my curiosity. Centerstand? On a modern V11 variant? Please elaborate. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

The V11 series are pretty much the same with regard to the foot position. However, Moto International does have a kit that gives you some more leg room. (I don't know weather thay still have some or not.) Anyway, for a more agressive riding position, a V11 with clip on's will be what you want. If you prefer a more upright position, there are options, (aftermarket), that can address that, or a Billabio. Search this board. There is a comparo on the changes from year to year as far as stuff that does not involve ergos. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

Well, actually, I have traveled part of this trip before. The second half of the trip will pick up where my buddy crashed between Idaho and Jackson, Wy. The remainder of us missed a lot due to the events and state of mind. (He's fine, the bike was repaired.) I have traveled out West a couple of times before, and am fully aware or dehydration. There is also another sickness, I can't recall the name, that has to do with drastic elevation changes, specifically in the up direction. The reason I consider the LeMans is because I am fully aware of the roads we will be getting to and, I gotta tell ya, when I pull on the happy cable on the LM, It just begs for more. I really don't know for sure what I may do, but I have been thinking about it a lot. When Frank Wedge parted out his LM, I acquired the custom peg lowering kit a friend of his made. I am pretty certain I could make the ergos work. But alas, the EV gobbles up the miles pretty good. Man, decesions, decesions. Thanks for the suggestions on the tires. I have a while to get this figured out. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

I, and some traveling companions are going out west this summer. Our trip will be in excess of 5000 miles. Glacier National Park, Beartooth Highway, etc. I've done some of that before. I am torn between taking the EV or the LeMans. From a functional standpoint, I can take the 40's, (HB bags), off the EV and have all the necessary space I would need for such a trip. My big concern is tire wear. The rubber I put on the EV easily goes the distance and much more. Any recomendations on rubber that I could count on for say 7000 miles, giving me a buffer? ('03 LM with wider rear tire.) Thanks. Zoom Zoom, John Henry

Congratulations Doc. This is indeed good news!!! Zoom Zoom, John Henry