callison

28,000 on my 2001 V11 Sport before I punted the neighbors car with it. No real problems except the cracked transmission case. 57,000 miles on the 1997 Sport 1100i before the valve guides went south. Lots of electrical problems with that beast. 28,000 miles on my 1997 California until the clutch plate broke. Probably a direct result of trying to keep up with a Sport 1100i, a Daytona and a few V11 Sports on Hwy 97 out of Prescott Arizona a few years back. They're reliable enough. The major thing to watch out for in the engine itself seems to be soft valve stems and aggravated valve guide wear as a result.

That particular mount location is valid for the LeMans and 2002 and later bikes. The earlier cowl is a hard shell foam piece without the void that Al mounted the PCIII in.

The original question was " Anyone know whether centre stands are available for the V11?" I have a swingarm stand, a front stand and a hydraulic lift and I have a center stand on my Sport 1100i as well. Of all of these, only the center stand can go with me wherever I ride my bike and does so with no fuss whatsoever. So, whether you have all of these other fine pieces of equipment or not, the only real answer is that yes, there is a at least one after market stand available, and it is vastly superior to carrying a paddock stand on the back of your bike. I'm not sure I understand all of the necessity for pictures in detail. It's not a particularly obtursive unit visually and it isn't that difficult to install. The only question is whether it will clear whatever crossover you have on your particular bike. That is a question best posed to TLM. I doubt that there are pictures of the stand installation for all of the various crossovers, but the stand should clear most of the crossover types. The Quat D is right out though.

My ISP dropped the ball and I've had no net access for two days, but I did save the post I tried to make and couldn't. The problem with dashing off a quick answer is... giving a half answer isn't much different than being "half-asked" (pun). It isn't likely to be a reed switch. They're off and on with no in between. The Guzzi fuel light does vary in intensity ruling out a reed switch. The mechanism is likely the same though, a magnet on a float, but instead of a reed switch, a Hall sensor instead. That would give a varying signal as the magnetic field near it changed strength. It makes no sense to use a magnet glued to the float in the presence of a volatile solvent like gasoline, so the magnet would be inside or part of the float. To speculate wildly, it is more likely that the Hall sensor is acting as the only active element in the circuit and so must pass the entire current of the dash light through it and perhaps it isn't sufficiently robust to do so or mechanically it just fails because of its environment. This is all just speculation. I don't think they're using a electromechanical (float activating a potentiometer) setup like the ones in cars because of the limited space. That leaves the wires themselves where they exit the assembly. If they're like the wires of the electomechanical fuel petcock, then they are subject to failure if the leads are flexed too much or crimped against something. I can only say that the ones I on my bikes have not given any problems in 100,000 miles accumulated miles on 3 bikes. Everything else, sure, but not the fuel sensors. Weird. I would surely trade my various problems for bad fuel sensors though.

Yes. Teo Lamers makes them. Red or black for V11 Sports, black for Sport 1100's.

I believe it is nothing more than a magnet on a float activating a reed switch. I have been known to have been wrong before though.

If the center stand for the V11 Sports works as well as the one for the Sport 1100's, than they're definitely a plus. Quite heavy though. I don't care, the convenience outweighs the weight.

I get to buy a new transmission case and rear cover. Quality of casting too poor to be heli-arced. Oh well. At least my head is on it's way back from Mike Rich. No oil leak in it either, so now I get to look somewhere else for the leak.

Odyssey made the original dry cell battery used in the Sport 1100i's and HD's in 1997. Original price was $158 USD. They are a good battery, so is the Westco one. To date though, I have had two fail due to the cases coming unsealed. One Westco and one Odyssey. Guzzi isn't dumb. They had too high of a rate of warranty BIKE replacements that were due to acid spills from dealerships overfilling the standard lead acid batteries, so they switched to the dry cell batteries across the whole line. Or so I was told by John Stoddard a few years ago.

Preliminary version. V11 Sport Wiring Diagram 2004

It's a tad easier in color, but it's still not entirely easy to understand. V11 Sport wiring schematic 1999-2002

You betcha. Stock, the horn button provides 12 volts to the horns. If you disconnect the grey/black wires from the horns and route that to the relay, then the horn button provides 12 volts to the relay. The schematic is on my web page in full glorious color. Headlight, Horn, Start & Run switch all get their power from fuse #5 and use that to energize their various functions. The Guzzi horns are always at ground. Some bikes wire the horns hot and use the horn button to ground the other side of the horn because it only takes one wire in the handlebar to do the job. Guzzi's are the other way around, probably because some models DO have a horn relay (my 1997California does) and so the wiring pre-exists whether a relay is incorporated or not. IMHO, not using a relay is pretty cheesy.

Terminal 86 should go to ground. The horn button provides 12V to the horns (terminal 85).

You didn't specify whether you bought it new or used. If it's used, savvy owners frequently install a horn relay and upgrade to a better horn. Alternatively, if it's a late mode production-run wise, there be be differences in the wiring. Does the relay look like a manufacture installation, or is it somewhere else on the bike?

Watch out for the gasket. After four years, it will get brittle. In other words, you'll have to change it someday, but they are definitely re-usable for quite a long time.

Patience Grasshopper...

All you need is three feet to step into every camp (sung to the tune of the Smothers Brothers Three Legged Waltz). So, I have an Apple iBook running YDL Linux, MacOSX, MacOS9 and ViritualPC/XP. See!!! I've got them all covered. I won't specify which one works best. Jason, in case you've missed out on all of my travails with the various bikes, especially the V11 Sport after using it to punt the rear bumper off of a 2003 Toyota Camry (covered in unnecessary depth elsewhere in this forum), the only replacement frame I could afford was from a Sport 1100i and it has to have the rear box torque tube mounted in a different spot, hence the modification.

Doubtful Pete, very doubtful. Interestingly enough, it isn't too difficult to pull the spine off of the entire drivetrain - if it weren't for one bloody nut on the backside of the right porkchop. THAT one requires removing the swingarm. Next time I'll just grind down a box wrench...

Porous castings just about covers it. Mike Rich says that Moto Guzzis have the poorest quality castings and grades of aluminum in the motorcycle industry. To that end, my transmission case has not been able to be revived thus far, although I have some hopes that it can be repaired. More likely, I will be buying a new case and rear plate in the near future. I wonder if MGNA can obtain one in less than a year. I really, really fear for the owners of the MGS01 when it arrives as the swingarm is entirely reliant upon the strength of the transmission case for mounting - and that case is not particularly robust. There's going to be some spectacular failures if the current transmission casting is the one being used on the production bikes.

When I talked to Mike Rich before sending him my heads, I seem to recall (I'm old enough to claim foggy memory here with impugnity) that he said the 630 was a new cam. I do remember that he said it would he would be interested in how it performed. I also seem to recall that he did not know of anyone that had put one in a Guzzi because it was less tractable on the street and that it was not a drop-in (which we know). I did have my heads set up to take it though, so at least I'm ready in that regard. I'm a ways away from the cam stage as I have not yet gotten the Bugswatter running on the dual plug heads. The coils never arrived, so I have to re-order those, the left head has an oil leak and has gone back to Mike and the Cliff Jeffries ECU adjustment program runs under Windows 98 and all I have is XP (UGH!!!, NT 4.0 was FAR superior to XP, in fact, I'd prefer DOS 3.3 over XP) and the program will not run under that, so now I'm buying an unbelievably obsolete laptop to run the program. Not a big deal, just another stumbling block. That's just one bike though. The frame modification for the V11 Sport was sent out four weeks ago, and it was supposed to be done before New Years. Now I'm being told it will be another week or two before they start. Then all of the parts have to be painted and then the bike re-assembled. After that, the V11 Sport will get the prototype Cliff Jeffries ECU for the WM15. More things to play with. Then there's the California, which I've just plain not been able to get in the mood to work on. On the brighter side, I picked up a used complete set of injectors, throttle bodies, braces and TPS for a little over $200. This is about $2000 worth of parts if ordered new through MGNA. They're unbelievably filthy though, so a bit of cleaning is in order. I wonder if powder coating throttle bodies is a sound idea for a bit of customizing...

I have the mysterious "2" in the ninth place too and my bike (or some part of it at least) is under recall. That was good news to me as I had already removed it from the engine and taken it to the dealer to have the cracked case fixed. So far, one welder has rejected the job saying the casting is too porous to repair. One more try, and then I'm out another $400 or so. As much as I like this bike, I truly should have taken the insurance money and bought a Triumph Thruxton. Water under the bridge. I now have nearly an entire Sport 1100i frame and if it ever comes back from the welders for the torque arm brackets, the whole lot goes off to the powder coater and then maybe. just maybe, I can put it back together.

Looks like a Mondial. But then again, all of those tiddlers look like Mondials.

1 Beemer 4 Guzzi's 4 wusses in my car

What "alarmist attitude"? I accept whole heartedly that my preferred choice of motorcycle isn't perfect. I'm not alarmed a whit that things go wrong. I'll go with the notion though, that information shared is more valuable than information kept secret. If you smell oil, you now have one more place to look. Apparently, my cracked case is number three, so though it's not common it's not unique either. I've been putting up with that smell for the last 21,000 miles or so. Now it's origin is known, it's going to be fixed, and I get the transmission upgrade taken care of at the same time. I like to help, it's why I have a whole web site devoted to clarified Moto Guzzi wiring schematics and it's my pleasure to share any information I have that will help another Guzzi rider.

While helping Joe Camarda swap wheels on his V11 Sport yesterday, I noticed that you can clearly see the rear left side of the transmission case when you look along the top of the swingarm on the left side of the rear tire. If you have the transmission crack (Joe doesn't - lucky guy) you ought to be able to see signs of oil dribbling down the finning under the top left transmission mount bolt on the back of the case. This is just an FYI for those of you that smell that burning 90 wt smell. The other more common leaks have been documented by Mike Stewart and others elsewhere on the forum. Sorry, with my bike apart and the transmission 100 mile away, there isn't any way I can provide a photo with an arrow pointing to the offending area.