Daniel Kalal

I saw this Daytona-based JPS in northern Italy. Anybody know if this is just a one-off, or if others were made? This particular one looked to have been ridden pretty hard, but it had some interesting details.

No, sorry. When I started shooting (just a pocket Canon camera), I didn't know that he was even going to start the thing up. I just lucked out in having this nice bit recorded.

I posted this over at the WildGuzzi site, but it's such a nice little clip that I thought I'd put it here, too (from the Mandello del Lario GMG 2006). V7 Sport Video

Cripes! If those of us living in the middle followed that advice, none of us would be riding!

Greg, unless the price of the steel version has also gone up by a like amount, this one is probably not the fault of Piaggio. The price for titanium has skyrocketed in the past couple of years.

There are eight primary crossings of the coastal range (connecting the coast with the Willamette Valley) and many more secondary roads that do the same thing. With 5 days you should be able to hit quite a few of these--I'd aim to get them all... The Willametter Valley, itself, isn't all that great, so I'd use highway 99 as the short connecter before heading back across. Of these, the ones that stand out for me are: 26, 34, 42, and 199 (which takes you across a corner of California).

your clothing looks right. It could be chilly in places, but heat will be a bigger concern most of the time--even in the mountains. A couple of questions: 1) From San Luis Obispo to Salinas you're taking Interstate 101. Why not take the MUCH better highway 1 along the coast? If you insist on staying inland, at least consider taking CA-25, instead. 2) You're showing a route from Needles down to Blythe and then Interstate 10 all the way to Los Angeles. Unless you really have a reason for doing that, you might consider dropping down old route-66 to Amboy, and then down to Joshua Tree National Park. This will also take you by Amboy Crater, and give you more interesting options through the park.

Every year, generally twice a year, for over 20 years. I'll be on the Cal2.

My best advice would be to just set out on any road that look intersting, because I know it will be. Things are a long way apart, so be sure to plan your time accordingly. On many of these roads, you'll be quite alone and away from any traffic at all. Without giving it a whole lot of thought, here are 8 places (and roads) that you certainly cannot go wrong with. 1 – Zion National Park. This is essentially a narrow, deep valley with amazing views and hikes. You’re really inside this place. Notice the highway in the photograph 2 – Bryce Canyon. This is different than Zion, in that you’re above it all, looking down at things. It’s like nothing else. 3 – The Escalante. Highway 12 from Bryce Canyon to Torrey is one of the best roads in the United States. It’s not a particularly challenging road as far as that goes, but the views are incredible, and if you like endless sweepers, you’ll love it. 4 – North Rim of the Grand Canyon. If you’re anywhere near, and you have the time, this is a must. 5 – If you really want the essence of Navaho country, this is where you have to be. Plan on at least traveling from Tuba City to Ganado. At Ganado, be sure to check out the trading post. The quality of rugs available is the best in the world (and priced accordingly). This is no tourist grab. 6 – Canyon de Chelly is what you’re probably thinking of when you envision ancient ruins, built into the side of a great valley. 7 – This may be off the path, but if you need to cool off, the run northeast out of Dove Creek is a good one. You can return through Durango and the Million Dollar Highway. One of the best, anywhere. Two Guzzis in this shot! (the slow one on the right is mine) 8 – Mesa Verde has the best preserved ancient buildings in the country. If you’re near, it’s well worth the effort. Nice roads, too.

There are no hypoid gears in the transmission*. Actually, I've almost always used it in both the transmission and drive box (for both my Daytona and California). It's just as easy to mix up a single batch, and I always change the fluids in both at the same time. I have run without it in the transmission, but it shifts better with it in; so that's what I do. If you don't see your bike ever reaching 50,000 or 100,000 miles, it probably doesn't really make any difference if you use it or not. If you want to see 300,000 miles, it'd be a good idea (overkill with lubrication is not a bad thing). * edit: strictly, the Guzzi rear drive box is not Hypoid, either. But, close enough for our discussion purposes.

Next up: counter-steering! (and after that a discussion on the difference between torque and horsepower)

Yes. Sorry; there's no such thing as "once and for all" with this topic. Years ago the "ignition points vs Dyna" debate was the #1 issue to get into an argument over. That has long been replaced by "pro Moly vs con Moly". But, even putting aside the fact that Guzzi specifies it; it doesn't cost very much. Why the concern? It'll make you feel better when you add it.

I was at a Trans-AMA race in California and I couldn't figure out how Roger DeCoster was seemingly able to just float above the rough sections (this was a natural track--not the jump filled things of today) while all the American riders were bucking all over the track looking anything but smooth. It was as if DeCoster could have won that race on a Hodaka. Just amazing. (is there any Guzzi content to this thread?)

All very good for row-BEAR, but where's the page for Brad Lackey?!

well done. These things are like nothing else, and yours sounds like a good one (I envy you that C-kit)

An open Guzzi induction system can be fairly loud. To pass the EPA noise emission test (which involves accelerating past a set of microphones at a fairly high throttle setting--I just looked it up) it would be better to separate all sources of noise as much as possible so the mics don't pick up both induction and exhaust at the same time from the same direction.

I guess I should post the follow-up here, too. Way back when the MGCL Guzzi list was about the only Guzzi Internet list (just after it broke away from the EuroBike list), #17 was reported as stolen. Later #18 was reported as stolen, but recovered. I think what happened is that the original posting was just in error. In any event, I've communicated with the seller of #17 (and #11) and there's no question but that everything is good about that bike--both the bike and the bike's paper. Whenever I come across a Daytona S/N, I take note of the unit and the owner, but I really don't have much to show for that effort. The highest S/N I have accounted for is #50, which may or may not mean anything. I'm aware, too, that Guzzi had a different series of S/Ns for the two-seater version (why?) as well as for versions sold in the U.S. So, sorting out all the numbers could get tricky. The Daytona 100 was only sold as a 1993 model in the U.S. and some were bought for storage, never to be ridden again (sigh...). mine--which does get ridden.

you call that a fender? There was a time in Guzzi's past when a parafango anteriore was a parafango anteriore...

This is great!

This is stunning news. Their very rarity makes Guzzis almost immune from theft--and, yet, here it has happened. It is impossible that any Guzzi owner would ever consider buying this bike (or the parts off it) without being suspicious. Right?... Has the owner contacted Frank at the newsletter? It shouldn't be hard to spread the news to the Guzzi owners who could keep an eye out for this bike.

from a memorable trip of May, 1979.

I've always thought the old "Moly argument"--which this thread is not--an odd one for Guzzi owners (btw, it's now up and running on the WildGuzzi site). I mean, the company has always specified it for the rear drive boxes, and it doesn't cost much to use. Check your owners manual, and you'll find it there. Anyway, I guess we're a rather cheap lot, so there are many Guzzi riders out there that have never used it and have never had a problem and will be more than happy to report this fact. I use it because it's easy, cheap, and is really an effective additive for ultra-high gear contact stresses (it's not snake oil). You can buy the stuff from your Guzzi dealer, or from any number of other sources. Likely you will not find it at your corner auto-supply store. For only $2,300 you can buy a 55 gallon drum of the stuff and keep the entire U.S. Guzzi fleet supplied (you only need less than an oz of moly in the box). You can also order more reasonable amounts at: http://www.guarddogmoly.com/index.shtml

Ah, that's part of the fun--figuring out where stuff came from. I've always figured that the Guzzi engineers have a bookshelf of catalogs that they thumb through looking for things like switchs and mirrors and lights. btw, that taillight lens was also used on a couple 1990's Hondas. In your case, chances are the Buell engineers did the same thing. It's the sort of journey that uncovers the exact BMW accessory plug in a John Deere catalog. It's more interesting when you can spot old Guzzi parts on newer bikes. The Eldo had Falcone parts (and Fiat parts). Your engine case still has the (undrilled) boss for the generator mount that was last used back in 1974.

Well done! I see that (as of 2002) Guzzis box of taillight lenses from the original Daytona hadn't run out, yet. Actually, the same lense is also on my KTM.

If you do go the Eldo route, take notice of the fact that Greg recommends the last edition, disc brake version. There's a reason for that. I had a 1973 Police Eldo that I sold at just under 100,000 miles. It was a nice running bike--good handling and very reliable. The problem was that it had Guzzi drum brakes, front and rear. I've heard people say that if you just get them adjust, they're great! Well, I guess I never had mine adjusted right (and I did try). If you want to go down the Eldo road, you really would do best to get one with the disk up front. Really, though. If you're looking for 25 year old bikes, the model is much less important than what shape it's in. One last note. Do not buy any Guzzi for its collector value. Every single model ever made is rare, but that doesn't mean that there's a great demand for them. Buy the one you want and you'll do fine. My 1973 Police, with nice looking, but ineffective drums brakes (taken a very long time ago).