Lamedog

:stupid: I started monitoring this forum a couple years ago. It seemed a nice place with knowledgeable folks doing interesting things with their time and money. I bought an '02 Le Mans, largely because of Al's example. There seemed a lot to do, and I have learned a lot in the process. The option to simply buy a bike with more power and better handling has little appeal.

Interesting to see this thread pop up again. Thanks for the photos, I am reminded what a beautiful bike is the Falco. As often happens I started chasing after what I though was the superior performance bargain (a specialty Mille R like a Haga, etc.). Ended up chasing my tail for a bike that really doesn't suit. Your Falco, when t was red and with that beautiful belly-pan, fits the bill. Perhaps I'll go chasing Falco's again once I get this painfully long winter maintenance completed. My replacement driveshaft and power commander come this wee k. With the new MG Ti pipes, I'm ready to live large....

I had multiple offers for used driveshafts. Thanks to all!

Thanks Paul.

I may need a new driveshaft for my '02 LeMans. Fixing is not as straightforward as I had thought and new is nearly $700. Ebay has one for an '03 sport, which I presume is same. Can anyone confirm this? Actually, anyone know what happened between '02 and the '03+ bikes (besides losing the wrinkle paint and adding a front crossover?). Perhaps I'd replace my sidepanels as well. These came cracked around the mounting screws. Since repaired, but visible. Thanks.

Has anyone here ever tried the MRA touring windshiel? My '02 LeMans was fitted with MRA touring when I bought it. Previous owner was my size 6'2" and said it was big improvement. Have not tried the stock windscreen. Even with this screen I'm ducking a bit to find a sweet spot if I'm at or above 80 mph for long. Does anyone know an option to this? Don't know of another screen that retains the LeMans aestheic. 1. A Honda Blackbird? 2. A twistier road. There are plenty of roads in my area that present a challenge at lower speeds so I would change the road before the windscreen.

Jose, I was hoping someone would step and put things right, but I'll tell you what I have found. The on-line parts manual I typically use is backwards of my bike. The shop manual has it correct. The shorter piece with two grease fittings connects to the bevel drive. The longer bit with one grease fitting to the tranny. There is much to be frustrated about with the shop manual however. It is vastly conservative in its recommendation to replace the shaft at 20,000k. Just grease it really well, being cautious to do it slowly so as to preserve the seals.

Greg: I was thinking your idea for the airing was getting a bit complex. On seeing Rocker59's, I think his is a cleaner approach. My But I am arguably not an artiste, or if so, my medium is lately sheetrock. But I know what I like when I see it. Perhaps you should go with your plan in any case, its not as if there is an official "half-faired" Billybob. Why should there be two alike?

I asked this of Todd (MPH), and understood him to say that at least from '02 onwards the LeMans variants were 50 state bikes. While this means they all originally had cannisters and would pass smog. For California folks this is helpful because it reduces the premium we sometimes face. That said, there are a considerable number of bikes currently registered that may no longer have evaporative cannisters, and have been retrofit with Power Commanders. Given the probability of a physical inspection I'd be sure to have parts on hand in case one did occur. My bike was previously registered in Ca, so I am not speaking from direct experience and defer to others.

Thanks Paul, I haven't run into a US bike with the lambda but I'll check.

Don't know what tires you had on your other bike, but there's general consensus the V11 rears is oversized in the compromise of aesthetics/flick quotient. Search numerous threads on this topic.

Most or all of the incentive it is the OHLINs. I'm 210 in riding gear and content with the fork after the spring and spacer change. Never have got the rear shock dialed in, and reluctant to put the money in required to fix it. I suppose just being OHLINs doesn't mean the spring rates are correct. Interested in if others have found spring rates on the OHLINs better for normal people than the stock LeMans with Marzocchi/White Power? As for the centerstand, pro's are simplified maintenance (certainly along the roadside), cons are weight and limits on crossover selection (Mistral works, Stucchi not). It would take a lot of carbon bits to offset the weight, but on this bike who are we kidding? I haven't found lean angle an issue. The bikes apart at the moment or I'd tell you what would likely hit first (I suspect stock position cans). A shopstand would have been an acceptable alternate, but I found trying to level the bike for maintenace/oil changes with blocks under the sidestand is very hard on turn signals and side view mirrors.

So after two years my '02 LeMans is at 21k miles and well sorted out; Roper Plate, TL centerstand, brand-spankin-new MG Ti pipes, Wilbers fork springs, head and tail light flashers, an MRA touring screen and plastics are in great shape. Along comes Sparky's '04 Nero Corsa; 8k miles and mostly bone stock; Ohlins, front crossover pipe, PCIII and a Rich Maund seat. I'm considering the change if the plastics are in good shape - I always liked the Corsa. Would move much of my aftermarket stuff to the Corsa and sell the LeMans in spring. Staying away from price, I'm interested in opinions of the pro's/con's of the change and what bits would you swap? Shoul I keep the front crossover or dump it? Would Ti pipes and ECU from an '02 fit an '04? - or did the front crossover make such a difference that this wouldn't work - or require an extensive remap with the PCIII? Perhaps this will be more interesting than my groaning about U-joints.

In my extremely recent experience, I would offer that it really is not a big job to pull the rear wheel, drop the swingarm and properly lube and exercise the front U joint. The back end can be done easily enough, but (in my experience), it is altogether too easy to think your doing a good job on the front when it may be otherwise. Next time you change the tire, pull the swingarm, remove the protective collar and really, really, lube the joint. The advantages over trying this in situ is that you can exercise the bearings enough to move them more thoroughly. Otherwise these guys spend their life wiggling forth-to-back a bit a few degrees grinding in a dried mucus grease bed. While your at it you can truly clean the back of the engine including the oil breather, bleed the clutch, and fit a deflector plate to the swingarm to prevent the whole from immediately getting dirty again. Oh, and you may save yourself $300 to $700 bucks and a whole lot of hassle. Don't ask how I know.

Thanks all. Notchy right in the middle where I suspect this usually sits, +/- a few degrees. I'm thinking this is similar to the inner roller bearing on the bevel box/swingarm which I have also found "flat" when I bought the bike. Such a limited existence for noble bearings of semi-infinite potential. But notchy is notchy. Even the wife says "boy this is notchy" - with that "what you gonna do now big guy? You got the bike to wrench on - so wrench". Anyhow, its to the garage and subject the joint to a little "Death Valley summer" treatment - very lightly touching the caps with a torch (really, really, mindful of the seals) and not getting hotter than I could touch. Squirted in grease, moved the joint, squirt, move, etc., until the grease coming out is completely fresh (really mindful of the seals). An hour later, still notchy. How notchy? Notchy enough to throw in a box and ship to Moto Int. I'll trust to Dave and Greg to decide between repair and replace. Going to a local auto shaft guy would be sort of fun, but I'm a bit concerned that the small small differences between available cross-sizes and potential requirement for metric diameter spacers creates an unacceptable risk of bodge on their part to complete the job. Thanks for your help.

Now I've done it... After greasing the shaft every tire change, and feeling I pretty good about the front zerk, I finally took the shaft out and played with it in my hands. The front U joint is really notchy. Perusing Guzziology, I realize I'm in over my head (too complex/infrequent/risky for me). Local Guzzi dealer has experience replacing these in other models, but using Guzzi crosses & shims. They were off-put by the fact MG does not list crosses for the '02 LeMans. While aware of the after market parts suppliers, they had some concern not following Guzzi's recommendation to replace the shaft and no direct experience with going this route for the specific bike - for whats thats worth. The job looks labor intensive and seems I could end up $160 for replacement crosses (MG Cycle) and another $200 for shop charges. This is only a bit more than half what Guzzi wants for a new shaft. At 21,000 miles the splines look good, but show some wear. So, I'm considering buying a new one from Guzzzi, or ship it to someone who will I can be confident will do a good job. Don't want to worry about this bit as I wander to New Jersey and back this summer..... Any thoughts? And particularly any experience having this done with shops in SF Bay Area? Thanks -

Mr. Cacciatore, you have truly found a home here. Fixing things before they become a problem, I might say even in their earliest stages of hypotheticalness, is a lifestyle choice amongst some of us (particularly those not dependent upon the bike for primary transportation). Its a beautiful bike, have fun and welcome to the fold. I may advise picking up both the shop manual as well as a copy of "Guzziology". And the search feature here is a great help. Welcome.

The email was upsetting, glad to find I'm not alone. I accept the caution. The gloves were starting to come off a bit over in 'Motha, and I can understand the host feeling the need to "flip the lights on bright". I do it regular when my daughter has friends over. I remember reading threads from a couple years back when it was about airboxes, crossovers and the like. What a civilized time. Such unruly buggers nowadays. Being as I'm from the Bay Area of California, I advise we act on Jaap's guidance and politically correct this place right now - say by offering to balance the Hooters thread with photos of a bunch of 50 year old guys in speedos. Wait..... maybe not. At least not me.

Following current upgrades (new exhaust & crossover) I'd like to have the beast dyno'd and either reflash the ECU or add a PC III(?). Everything I've done adds weight so I'd rather reflash if there is a credible shop in the area. I gotta believe the San Francisco bay area has shops with experience doing this, but there's little mention. Any real experience? I hate to hobble down to LA, but maybe so?

The rear half of my front fender finally broke through where she bolts to the caliper. I've given up piecing it together with ABS and glue. If you're looking to "Carbon Up", PM me with a fair price for your current fender (really only need the rear, but if your's is complete we can discuss). My bike is '02 Lemans Champagne/grey - not balck or red, and it would ship to Bay Area California. Getting quotes for new replacements from dealers also. Thanks

Too cold and wet to ride, so I elected to have a good go at the drive line U-joints, which I've never been satisfied I'd lubed well. At 21,000 miles (33k-kms), I'm past the shop manuals recommended replacement mileage (~13,000 miles, can this be right?). So I pulled the swingarm, shaft cover and shaft ends, then cleaned off the accumulated grease. In my vigor, I foolishly started at taking the snap rings off to access the crosses. This was a bad move, as I broke the end off a snap ring trying to get into the U joint crossover. The Guzzi catalogue doesn’t list a replacement part. Too late, I opened "Guzziology" to find shafts can last “much longer” than mfr recommended depending upon spline wear. That Dave, always with the clear and concise guidance. More important (for an amatuer) 'ology clarifies you need a punch to do the job in any case and will replace the crosses as part of the job. So I abandoned the ill-considered effort and pumped grease into each cross until I’d displaced the snotty black stuff and what was coming out looked fresh. Then worked the joint for a few minutes to see if the bearings felt OK. They did, but then they weren’t bad at the start either. Am considering putting the shaft back in the bike (the snap ring will hold but would never be able to be removed again), run it another 10,000 miles and replace the entire shaft at that time. Interested in what others use to determine the need to replace the shaft. Appreciate if comments are experience based. I am sure catastrophic spline failure could happen, but I'm checking splines at tire changes ~ 5k miles and would think this an unlikely outcome......

Cortech Sport side and top in back, Guzzi tank bag. This is 70+ liters. For a typical three or four day trip I don't even use the side bags, just tank and tail. I don't use my bike much for commuting and hauling groceries. Yes, it would be nice to have secure storage for a helmet, but thats the way it goes. Why haul all that air around in a nice case most of the time? I fancy if I were to commute I'd get a Tiger with a big top case. Reliable, practical, and ugly (IMHO).

You know I haven't seeen many other Guzzis - so if I'm being silly I apologize. I understand this setup to be a combination of reversing the stock bar clamp to get them closer, and the adjustable riser bit. Also - I was incorrect - this is closer to minimum rise, not maximum. I lowered them after I dropped the pegs and changed back to a stock saddle. Anyway its an example of what can be done if you've an eye for detail, access to proper tools, and a wallet to cover the anodizing.

Thanks for this. If not a laser, at least I have a chance to use some great machinists calipers and measuring tools I inherited......

Here's another photo....