Lamedog

While I'm apart for winter maintenance, thought I'd share this. Previous owner of my '02 LeMans was a machinist who said he made these risers. I haven't seen any like them, and they are pretty slick. These are shown at max rise unless I get longer cables, but its plenty for me (6'2"). Perhaps someone here would like the heartache of a limited production run? Perhaps Pete would like a longer slip for his yacht? (I'm new to photos - hope this comes through)

What with it being rainy and having 21K miles on my '02 LeMans, I thought I may as well check and grease the shaft U joints. As mentioned elsewhere (esp. thanks Mr. Ratchethack), the inner bolt on the shaft cage is near impossible to get at. So I plan to remove the swingarm as others describe. I don't have an official shop manual, and a search of this site, GuzzziTech and Mr. Roper's Australian site, turned up no specific directions. Perhaps because this is so simple? Is this as straightforward as it looks - remove the large nuts on the PorkChop, and the shock mount bolt... Any cautions? Appreciate your help.

I work for Shell at a bay area refinery and have been researching potential event tie ins to the Laguna Seca MotoGP this July (Yes, proud to be the official fuel of both Ducati and Harley Davidson. How sensible is that you are asking? Anyway, its clear we have a thing for twins). Had a good chat with some folks who work for the track and they told me the week before MotoGP was filled with events tied to MotoGiro US. I haven't seen this on the west coast before but sounds like fun and a good chance for Bay Area Guzzi folks to get together. Is somebody already doing this? Searching MotoGiro US provides plenty of links so I don't include one. Think I could enter my '02 LeMans as vintage based on its technology? I may yet be glad I haven't hung a bunch of carbon fiber on it

I'm with the others. Glad you're OK. Glad you're thinking of another project. And appreciate this coming at a time when I was also contemplating less than full kit for the "short and simple" commute to work. I'll think again.

Hate to beat a terribly dead horse, but I performed Greg's modification about as he recommended. I had four screws that stripped, not two. The recommended practice of slotting, heating and driving with a punch worked as stated. Installed three drilled rubber and silicone-greased blocks. The change significantly reduced the amount of whack I sometimes get when I'm late rolling on the throttle in a corner. Seemed like fine advice and I still have three stock rubber blocks in case I ever want to go back. I would recommend the change as a safe and low cost way for new forum members to acquaint themselves with the workings of the cush drive.

'02 LeMans, transmission recall done/new wrinkle paint. Centerstand, MRA tall windscreen, Heavy Black throttlemeister, new front disks, Wilber's progressive springs, new fork seals, Guzzi tank bag, near new Pilot Power. Stock and gutted pipes (do not change back). All thats left is PowerCommander, but I'm tired. 21K miles - Excellent. $6,900. Offering here first since this is the group that can appreciate. Craigslist next week.

Got my vote. It is a beautiful bike.

Thanks, I figured. For the initial install it provides a quick check to see if bolts are loosening I suppose. I engineer at a Northern California refinery and we have a (bad) habit of giving yellow paint pens to new Operators and having them mark piping as they learn the unit. Result can be lots of yellow paint that doesn't amount to much.

I recently and embarrassingly had to pull the rear disk off my '02 LeMans to remove the steel brake pad backing that had managed to sinter to the rotor. Yes, I realized to late that the infrequent low speed grinding feeling when slowing was another example of learning the hard way that rear pad life can be very short. Anyway, I opted to to chip off the steel fragments from the stainless rotor, clean up the calipers as described elsewhere on the forum, replace the pads and put the lot back together. On reinstalling the disk I noticed Guzzi had provided yellow witness marks on the bolts fixing the rotor to the wheel. After I'd finished torquing the bolts, about half of them line up - pointing radially outward from the center axle. The other half point wherever. I presume if the mating surfaces of wheel and disk are clean, and the bolts properly torqued, the yellow paint is no issue. Am I missing something?

Lets see, 4K miles on an unfaired bike with ergos for folks under 6' and flexible? Count me in. But I'm interested in the original deal NH to LA. If you're fixed on Todd putting in a clutch, I can't help. I lived an worked 5 years about a mile from Todd's place in my preGuzzi days. Enough is enough. Once you realize El Paso Texas is only half way from Houston to LA much of the Glamor is gone. My time frame would be mid August. I'll PM you to swap details. Carry on your other options, I can see a huge herd of Guzzis going East to West. In my dreams.

Mark: I'm sorry I missed. Missed the announcement. I'll be careful to check from now on. Brave to take a Cali on the goat trail otherwise known as Morgan Territory. One of few Bay Area roads where it can take a few miles before you realize that really is a flat you're struggling with. Thanks for getting this together..

Gil: Go now and buy the Guzzi Ti's, you will not be an complete person until this is past. I expect you know this in your heart. Reward your long summer days work, beg Beckzuki's forgiveness, and move on. Oh, and tell me how it is once you achieve that state of bliss.

I got a second pair cheap/used from a forum member and the outer covers appear ceramic coated. Very black and the coating is too good and heat resistant to simply be paint - however there are scratches under the coating from a previous spill. Guy was either a great rider or mechanic after my own heart who let the bike get outta control while checking oil level. In any event, I've had the outer coverings off and put them back on without problem while assessing surgery to improve tone. I've abandoned that effort and now have a stock set where noise might be an issue (local MSF class or track days in restrictive areas), and my "empty pipes". This is stock pipe with no internals, but through-bolted from each end. Ridiculous loud, but more often envied than despised. Still want a set of MG Ti's before they get too hard to get....

Mine worked great (6'2", 34" inseam). Yup I had to fiddle with the shift and brake. Added 1/4" to shift and brake length to get the feel right. But there are many factors to consider. My bar risers add an inch up and an inch back which opens things up, and I have the MRA screen so the wind is acceptable in the slightly more upright position. Ankle flexibility and boot style factor in as well. For me it works and I wouldn't go back. The lots ends up more stealthy than the radical extended controllers evolving on this site. Comes a point that ergonomics and aesthetics just don't work anymore and its "Harley-Time". (But I'm often reminded by my 14 yr old daughter that I am unnecessarily rude). Whatever works.....

Pete: I've PM'd and Emailed with no reply. I bought one (Paypal) about 6 weeks ago, and have not received confirmation from you as yet. I'll PM again Dennis Walnut Creek, CA

$%#@, of course I missed it. Bike's been on local Craiglist off and on for several months. Logic says to wait for winter anyway...

My '02 LeMans is well-sorted at this point. After Buell pegs and bar risers, the ergos are great (I'm 6'2", 190 lbs), and the bike is fine to ride and easy to wrench upon. Wilber's fork springs and tightened up the rear shock has left suspension improved over stock, but the bike remains more stable than quick in corners. So here comes up an '02 Aprilla Falco, 10K miles, bone stock and great shape. Another 1/2 faired two-cylinder Italian. This bike is derestricted so probably 30 hp more. Test ride tomorrow evening. Am concerned the two bikes are too similar to cohabit the garage, anyone familiar with this "non Mille"?

I bought my '02 Le Mans when my car became too complex to wrench upon. While polishing isn't wrenching, these are beautiful things, and I'll admit to an element of satisfaction from the making shiny. It can't all be as glamorous as fitting up a Roper plate. For pipes and my now shiny alternator cover, I use Micro Mesh (regular) and elbow grease. This product can used wet or dry, is made with a flexible cotton backing with polymer emulsion cushioning layer and large "micron graded aluminum oxide crystals suspended in an ultra flexible resin bond." Weights are different than standard sandpaper and get to extrememly fine. 8000 is fine for pipes, but scale goes much finer. Have also been known to use brass wool when I'm comfortable I can keep the broken off bits from ending up in my sticky tires and other nooks and crannys where they would add no value. I always adjust the valves or bleed the brakes when I'm done so I can hold my head up in this group.....

I'm also sorry for your loss. The way I see it CSPAN was the luckiest dog imaginabole, and you obviously held up your end of the partnership. I'd feel very good about that.

Mid-aged distance trail runner, pulled up lame after a race. Casting about for another tribe, I came across this group. Liked the forum, the simplicity and look of of the bike. Bought an 'O2 and have been fiddling with and riding it ever since. I'm healed up, but can't imagine shedding the bike. Should change the avatar I 'spose.

Pete: Believe I got the PayPal thing figgered out. Advise if otherwise. Thanks in advance for my very own sloppy sheet. Looks like my waitin' has saved a few ounces with the new, lighter weight, "racing sloppy". I'll go have another cookie...... Dennis

After experimenting with various adhesives over the past year, I also gave up and resorted to "through-bolting". Seems a shame. Guess Italian roads are smoother than those here in Northern California. I understand this solution is common enough that Bodger points are not awarded.

As you've done this before, you're aware the difference in pin size is made up by buying the Buell bushing. This fills gap between the Guzzi pin and Buel peg hole fine. True there is a bit of grinding, but I found my bench grinder and file adequate - at least no machining. Now I wish to simply replace factory pegs with aftermarket ones. Gotcha - no help here. Lets see what comes....

I'll reply before the answers get hard to come by. I'm 6'2" and went with the Buell peg conversion often referenced on this site for my 02 LeMans (search and ye shall find). Best modification I have made to the bike (lowered pegs ~3/4 inch) and the only one that didn't increase the bike's weight.

Just finished torquing heads, and valve adjust using directions I found on this site and "Big Daddy's". Pleasant evening's work. Well except for the part about having to cut thru a hardened 10 mm hex with a dull hacksaw. Alas, no Hex socket for my torque wrench so I had to improvise. Can I get bodger points for this? On the assembly I spent a bit more time on the fitup and torque of the brake calipers - et voila - my bran' new "stock-like" Brembo rotors do fit fine. Big thanks to Todd for guidance on the rotors and springs. I'm not hung up on the sag numbers, I'm where I was for laden sag, and should be firmer as travel increases. Presuming a clean test ride - where my other fork doesn't sprang a leek, my winter service is done. Oh yes, thanks for the quick turnaround on replacement seals Greg. Time to ride.