Lamedog

Reinstalled my fork seal and reset air gap with following comment and answer to my question; 1. There is a small equalization hole in the upper fork tube that fills the annulus. Saw it first go round but wasn't sure. Pumping the stanchion to pull vacuum by covering it with your hand will rapidly equalize levels in the fork tube and annulus. 2. Removing the seals is pretty tough, particularly getting the retaining ring out. Manual's direction to use a screwdriver sounded easy, it was tough. The old seal ('02 bike with 20 k miles) was very brittle and large chunks were coming off. Based on this I initially planned to go after both sides. But removing the old and particularly refitting the new seal was difficult enough I passed until next winter's major service. Probably worth taking the fork to a shop for the seal replace anyway. Rest of the job was straightforward. On to torquing the heads....

Ratchet: Our posts passed in the ether, so I had not read your thoughtful response when I responded to Dave with my joking/inappropriate reference. I did not mean to offend yourself, Dave, Todd or Klaus, though the sequence of posts would make it seem I was more than rude. My apologies and I again, I appreciate your help. I read the forum to such an extent I feel pretty calibrated with major players, but it is more than fair they don't know me from Adam. I believe it is not the first time I have made this mistake and appreciate your continued patience. Once again, I appreciate your help.

Dave: You're too kind - I expected a "gloves off" response from my SoCal brothers (but we can only wait for Hatchetwhack to weigh-in). Perhaps something like "you can't measure your butt", or "we're not gonna risk potentially getting crosswise with Todd without your establishing more credibility than you have to date, Lamedog. And what with this Lamedog name anyway?". For folks focussed on numbers (I was), the result is dissappointing. If I hadn't increased spacer length, I'd have ended up with more sag than I'd started with. Ran this past Todd, who knows way more, and rides far better than I. Believe I correctly interpret his guidance as "Go ride your bike, its not just about the numbers". I will definitley ride the bike for a while before making another change - I'm no racer type, and really only made the change cause I wanted to wrench. The other spring alternatives I saw for my weight range were shorter so I opted for Wilbers over adding what looked like a whopping amount to preload spacers, or buying additional springs. BTW: Can you tell the new kid (me) - Is fork travel (bottom out) dependent upon internals (spacer, spring coil stack and cartridge), the fork tube contacting the adjusteer cap, or the slider dust cap contacting the end of the fork tube at the wheel end? I'd presumed it is the internal stack. In this case increasing preload spacer length would reduce fork travel, but I have read elsewhere this is not the case. Anyone know the real answer for this bike with stock springs/spacers?

Here are results of my effort installing Wilbers springs. I have an '02 LeMans with Marzocchi forksthat I bought used. Can't say for sure whether the previous owner had changed springs from stock, presumeably not. Before: (stock?) unladen/static sag: 14 mm laden/dynamic sag: 44 mm stock spacers: 120 mm After: (Wilbers, don't know rate(s), but gave Todd my riding/kit weight at 200 lbs) unladen/static sag: 10 mm laden/dynamic sag: 45 mm new spacers: 130 mm So things didn't change much, but progressive springs are a different concept and I can handle a softer ride if on hard braking the overall dive is not worse than before. (I take this to be the concept). Unfortunately, my test ride was cut short when it became evident I had damaged a seal during the process so can't speak to performance. I am going back in tonight to repair the seal and would appreciate help on the basics of setting air gap... Directions are for air gap of 100 mm with fully compressed fork, springs and spacers out. OK. What about the inner cartridge adjusting rod - in or out? No mention in the manual or Wilbers direction. I presume this is only a few mls and symmetric for both forks, so not to worry? Also: Neither the manual nor Wilbers instructions, nor my search on the topic is clear on whether the annular space between the slider and outside of fork tube should be filled with fluid. Wilbers says to degassify the outer fork tube by pumping, but I take this to mean degassify fluid in the inner fork tube, using the outer slider as a vacuum pump. (Pumping the cartridges is covered separately). I presume since this is where the seals are that fluid is intended to be there, but seem to recall when setting the gap that the fluid was still within the fork tube and had not overfilled into the outer "slider". So I purposefully added fluid to the outer annulus in one leg and the other not figuring that after pumping it should end up the same so long as I check and adjust final gap. (I apologize for having been a scientist as well as engineer). And yes, the seal leg that failed was the one receiving fluid in the annulus. OK guys. Fix me.

Welcome aboard neighbor! I'm a hop and skip down the road (near Las Lomas HS in Walnut Creek), and coincidentally also since '87. But wait, I also ride an '02 LeMans and used to race pedal bike a bit. I tend to ride like I used to bike race - too much concern for collarbones to amount to much. But I can generally keep within eyesight and would enjoy company some mutual day off. Dennis aka Lamedog

Ouiji: Thanks for the update! Pulled my own forks last night. Shop manual and a paste up of various threads from the "How To" section, including a fine brief summary by Carl Allison. As usual, once I'm into the job the anxiety-part is displaced by "wrenchisfaction" - the combination of interest and the satisfaction often found at the end of a spanner.... Thanks again...

Ouiji - How about an update on your project? Are you done, did it help, what would you do differently? Any tips for those (like myself) who are about to install our own Wilbers springs? It was interesting watching this potentially productive thread degenerate into semantics and hypothetical, but perhaps it's not too late to salvage a learning or two... What happened? I just received my own fork springs from Todd but was scared off by this piece. Which seemed to have spawned another more recent fork thread (son of rebuilding the 6 speed) but that also wandered off to nowhere in particular. What have you to say about the process? Also: I haven't found this in the "How To" threads, am I just not finding it? I'll search again, but it seems a fork rebuild/sag set piece would be most useful. My V11 manual and Guzziology are helpful, but a photo piece would be

My prescription Photosun (and yes, bifocal) darken nicely with standard full face Shoei lens down. I haven't seen this a significant problem. I do switch to standard sunglass when its very bright.

Thanks for the comments. Was hoping to hear from the knowledgeable whether the Ti pipes are street legal. If anyone knows for sure please let me know. Presume this is like the the Triumph performance kit - labeled not for street. Yes it would be a sure thing if my current bike had legal pipes - just more juggling. But no. My current pipes sound too good for stock and would likely fail if the inspecting officer decided to shine a flashlight down the pipe. I can just see this unraveling to where I need to pick up another set of pipes. At that point I'd end up with 2 bikes, three pipes, uggh. The logistics and eBay implications stink. I think Mr. Ratchet is correct - this is a grass is greener thing that is best gotten over. Oh well, off to the garage.....

I should really be changing my fork oil and putting on the new front disks, but while the garage is cool I've been considering more serious upgrades. My Champagne '02 is well sorted and I'm pleased. But then along comes a red one with Ti pipes at a fair price. But here I am in Bay Area California, and there that bike is in another state.. Whereas the last bike was easily registered (no Motor Vehicle inspection), I'm concerned that an out of state bike is a red flag and will be inspected. Those fancy pipes won't pass (I presume they are stamped "Off-Road", so we'd be counting on the benevolance of HIghway patrol), and I'll have to refit the carbon cannister, and etc. Thoughts? Do I spend a few hundred for new disks, or a few grand on a new bike and sell my '02 when prices and weather firm up? Also - any peculiarities of an '04 over the '02 that I may be overlooking?

After waiting 5 months for a special order seat to replace the aftermarket one that came on my (used) '02 LeMans, I abandoned in favor of a '04 Ballabio seat. Saved ~ $12. I was advised there are small differences in cover between various models, but the pan is same from '02 onwards. How much of a purist do you wish to be?

Search the many threads on "footpeg lowering" and "Buell footpegs". I'm 6'2, went Buell route for

My '02 V11 just hit 20 K miles, and I plan to change the fork oil over the upcoming holiday. Was considering lowering the forks in the triple clamp a bit to make the bike a little less "stable", since its not unusual to return near exhausted from hopping across the saddle if the roads get a little too twisty. The current set has the bar clamps directly on the triple clamp and the fork top cover immediately on the bar clamp. I can't find a spare millimeter anywhere in the stack. What would the stock setup look like? (couldn't find this in my thread search) - and any thoughts on a start point for quicking the steering a bit? (this has been hashed pretty regular, but new members may want a break from the political threads..)

Why - That's exactly what my installation looks like! Thanks for the filter and clamp Greg. Cheap insurance and doesn't weigh anything. I suppose theres a chance I missed the correct worm gear torque, but far less likely than having an issue with a cell-phone using SUV driver.

Welcome to Guzzi-World. You will ask more technical questions, but none more often than this one.... We most all share your problem and posted solutions range from creative to brute force - drill and through bolt the whole caboodle. For me, top and one side bushing failed early on. First fix was clean the pulled insert and rubber bushing, and reglue with silicone adhesive. This held until I reached the end of the driveway. Maybe would have lasted longer, but it would be on a much smoother road than here in Northern Ca. Next pass was cleaning the rubber bushings with acetone and the brass insert by wire wheel, then glue with a high-build/gap filling epoxy. I added limit stops (scrap plastic) glued to the underside front dash to reduce amplitude of shaking esp on washboard sections. This about 5K kilometers ago. So, as I'm writing this I checked the bike to see how best to describe the limit stops. 'lo and behold, the remaining bushing had failed. Since this had not recevied the gap-filling epoxy, maybe it will hold. Maybe not. Welcome to Guzzi.

After tracking this stie for several months, I predict you'll get an earful. However, you won't know how the swap is until you get into it - and it'll be easy enough to back out if things get messy. Do the swap, and live with it for awhile. Even if it adds weight and (omigod) reduces horsepower. It may still be easier to live with. Neither pipes will help you judge corner entry speed, and this is far more useful than horsepower for riding "promptly" with a group or alone. After sending a day with older (and way older) Guzzi's at Bodega Bay last Saturday, I got say: Completely clean, stock, bikes are special. It may be useful to get the experienced wrenches to comment on the benefits of assembly lube in fitting up exhaust. With or without? Come on guys - weigh in here!

This was my first Guzzi event as well, though it probably doesn't count if you just day-trip it. Arrived at Bodega 10:30 from Walnut Creek to see the group departing. Hopped on for a very nice couple hour jaunt through Occidental, Coleman Valley Road and 1 North to Stewart's Pt. Then home again, home again. Beautiful ride. Enjoyed meeting Mark from Hollister, Hal from San Jose, Fred from Granite Bay. Extra special were the two other Champagne LeMans ('sides mine). These belonged to the illustrious Dr. Gil (Eureaka) and Paul (Vallejo). And the whole caboodle of other folks that were there. Some very pretty and some pretty thoroughly run in bikes. Very nice. Sorry I haven't been able to cut photo size down to post direct, but there are plenty of V11 photos out there. Difference here is three in one spot...

I'm mere 6'2", which is apparently short in this crowd. Bike came with bar risers that add about 2 cm, and I did Buell footpeg conversion. After doing the pegs my minor "stiff-back" symptoms are gone. Bike is comfy for as long as care to ride, so long as I remember to move about ocasionally in the seat to address the "tingly-heel".

Had promised to post event schedule for Guzzi By the Sea. Got email from Don this morning. No formal schedule. Moto Mechannica in Santa Rosa may be bringing a new Griso and Breva on Saturday. I'd like to see a Griso up close. Just finished fall maintenance for the ride over, valves, filters and fluids. Forget the pipe's, all I hear now is the valve clatter. 5K miles and only one valve was off by 0.001. Heck, that's measurement error.

Now I am confused! Have never been asked for credentials to prove I'm a fool, always presume this is self-evident. Will have to have some cards made up... As for the illustrious Dr. Universal Life Gil, well him being of a certain age (mine), and also tirelessely flogging the Guzzi's By The Sea NorCal gig, I'm assuming straight up he's family. Will have to post a face tonight.

Is there any schedule, or is this strictly informal show and tell? Most likely I'll show up 11'ish, hang till late afternoon and motor back home before too dark. Would very much like to ride a "Well-Sorted" LeMans with a fancy PCIII or remapped ECU, since I am near stock and considering the step. Hate to infer I trust my butt more than all the techno-wrench talk, but this may be true. As a Doctor, I am sure you respect that the butt (or there abouts) is the smartest muscle in the body: being able to distinguish between solid/liquid/gas - or is this more information than you need? In exchange I can only offer a sample of the most-sweetest high-volume pipes in the entire-whole world. (some compensation for losing out on the recent MG Ti eBay bid). At San Rafael BMW last week. I started up to leave and notices a couple mechanics had come out of the shop to check on the noise. Presumed they were either expecting to minister CPR to a death-bed Beemer, or inform that I had some serious problem... Nope, they hung around smiling and said liked the sound. I'll email Don van Zant and see if he'd care to post any schedule....

Felix: "Guzzi's By The Sea" aka "A Gathering of Eggles" is a NorCal Guzzi gathering at Doran Beach Campground in Bodega Bay, CA. October 6 thru 8. Organized by MGNOC Rep, Don Van Zandt at 707-557-5199. Best to email at mowtow@earthlink.net and request literature. Don's a peach, but I'm new and don't know why the NorCal group is so quiet. Hoping to meet some folks on Saturday. I haven't seen a schedule so really have no idea what to expect. I will be there Saturday from about 10 until 4 PM. Anyway, you're in god's county for motorcyclin. I periodically find myself in Topaz (via Hiway 4 and Monitor Pass). Will have to connect. Let me know if you make it to Bodega. I'll look for a Tenni - you'll know me by the shiny alternator cover. Dennis Hoagland

Dr Gil: Just you come check it out Saturday (10/7) at the NorCal "Guzzi by the Sea". This should psyche you for some rainy weekend in the garage... As for the eagles, IMHO this bike is crawling with the things. Enough! My own spouse says "What's with the Eagles, is this trying to be a Harley?". Would that I could say Guzzi had 'em first, but all I can say is the Italians probably weren't paying attention, or thought Harley used a turkey. Anyway, I kept the Eagle, in fact I removed some grunge from the chrome plate - just be really, really careful. I periodically wipe the headers with Micro Mesh 8000/12000 when the blue gets bad. It rapidly reacquires the nice faux titanium brown patina. Flexible, really fine sandpaper, pricey, but lasts a long time and beats steel wool in my opinion. Check micro-surface.com, I get mine from the local Rockler woodworking shop.

Photo of the bling thing. Not too sunny this afternoon, but its just as well - we'd all go blind. Polishing beat burying landscape lighting cable for the afternoon, but not by much - and only delayed things. I used 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, and 1200 grit wet/dry paper. All hand. Finished up with white emery on my drill mounted buffing wheel. Won't confess to using wire-wheel on the grinder in early stages as this is much too dangerous. But quick. Actually I'm not sure it would be possible to get the manky paint off in the tight spots without the wire wheel, and once you start you're locked - short of powder coat or underbody gum not much will hold up here. Total time approx 2 hrs. I opt for ageing gracefully but evenly - no clear coat. Annual Simichrome coming on...

Being an Italian bike, making pretty can be as important as titanium pushrods when seeking that last little bit of performance. So there I was futzing with the alterntor cover and next thing you know its gone and lost the 1/4" of silver crap and is now polished. Naked alternator covers, what next! You'll excuse the lack of photo, but I trust you can imagine what polished alimunim looks like. Question is how to compound the silliness? Just let it oxidize? Seems to work for bike parts (I'm not making a lifestyle of it..), and I figure there are so many rocks down there that any kind of finish is only going to chip off anyway. Go ahead, admit it - you've been here, done that. What worked for you?