nose2wind

http://www.raptorsandrockets.com/News/2008..._Moto_Guzzi.htm More pics and info

The Group, Mike at MPH cycles in Houston has my bike. It is there for a Tranny recall and to solve the mystery of the stumble! He said from the start he did not think chain tensioner is the issue. He wants to go back and check basic set up etc. I will keep you posted. Also while in the Transmission he found a bad bearing and the clutch in bad need of replacing. My bike has 50,000+ miles. Docc I know you are not far behind and may need a clutch soon. :Later

You guys had me in stiches! I almost fell out of my stool! Though, maybe I should see a shrink. All I could think of were 2 words... TOGGLE SWITCH... Maybe I've been hanging around Guzzies to long.

If it was hot when you shut it down these are the indications of a vapor lock. Assuming it will start and run after a good long 1hr cool down. If you can get a repeat, disconect the fuel line at the cutoff. You should get a nice vapor bubble comming out the fuel line from the direction of the pump. Recconect and try to start. If she fires up you have a vapor lock issue. If you have a electric cutoff you might also consider changing it. If you have a manual one don't forget to close and reopen it before and after. Your air sensor is fine. I had mine mounted on top of the frame and moved it to behind the headlight with no difference noticed. The whirring of the pump tells us that you relays, sidestand, neutral switch are not the problem. Hope this helps

If you look at the Drawings on the instruction sheet it would appear to be used three ways. One inverted with the hex protrusion into the manhole for removal Another reversed with spiked attachment hammered into filter for removal Third with spikes removed for tightning the filter Very nice all in one tool. How much are they? Only problem I see is you have to buy filters that fit the wrench.

I just use a nut (size per ratchet post) I just hold it and put a crescent wrench on it and turn. What I do find indespensable is a funny oil filter wrench tool I bought somewhere. It has 3 prongs that are cam mounted to the base of the unit that fits on a ratchet. First remove the three plastic covers (worthless) that fit on the prongs. You insert it into the manhole and the 3 prongs fit around the filter. When you unscrew the thing the cams tighten the prongs around the filter and it comes right off. It is way better than those cap things that fit on the end of a filter. It is a one size fits all oil filter remover. It is not for puttin them back on. I have had this thing remove a filter so tight it started to twist and destort the shitty metal of the filter but still pulled it off. It has major grip. The harder you resist the tighter it gets. Any of you guys having trouble removing those filters with the sump on need one of these babys. Easy oil change, the hardest part to me is getting the manhole cover lined up to not cross thread.

I concur. Your battery is on the way out. Get one of the good one's (odessey or equal). Don't ask why just do it.

Hello all, Made it back to Dallas! Did some wandering in AR before my return. Total around 2,500 miles. Docc the day we left Sweetwater I stopped near Sarse,AR around 520 miles that day. Great time! Later

I agree with ratchet your boots are not the problem. The cracking does not go through. I have had many instances with the vapor lock. Moved line from touching head no fix. I finally worked out a fix (haven't had occurance in 2 years) It is on the list and should come up with a search. I moved the pump to the filter location and the filter to the pump location. I even have pictures. [url=http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7461&hl=#

The nelson rig and wolfman stuff are good. Another not to common are Oxford Sports. I found some here in Dallas and thought they were well built with some good Ideas. How they fasten is important. Some go underneath the seat which keeps the straps and bungies off the paint. Something you mentioned as important. Let us know what you end up with. I might go back to this format and get rid of the ugly brackets. One reason I got away from my guzzi tank bag is it is before they started making the one with the hole in the mount for the big tank pad to fit in. My tank bag was always moving sideways because of the tank pad. It won't sit right on the tank. I even thought of removing the pad. Wonder how the tank would look with this removed. Anyone seen this? D

With the high pipes you don't have a lot of options. I don't think lowering them a smidge hurts the look of the bike much. I would use the Tekno's if you are worried about the paint. I like mine. Otherwise I would consider just a tail trunk. I used to travel to AR on weekends alot with just my tank bag. A tank bag and a tail pak should be enough. I find people take way to much crap. Like laptops etc. You are wearing most of the bulky stuff,boots,jacket etc. I pack a pair of low tennis shoes to change out of my boots after a long day riding. Shirts,1Pant, undies, socks I have a small shaving kit travel size everything etc. spare gloves, clear shield visor, some other misc. small camera protein bars etc. I could get all this in my tank bag. If you need different jackets etc. that is what starts to fill up the other bag. All my tools (minimal) go under the seat. All my stuff is water proof so I don't need rain gear. That stuff doesn't take a lot of room. In winter I add a liner and my electric vest ( a must). Glove liners, Backlava etc. Hope this helps D

Change it! Easy fix. Left side above the starter.

I will start with the easiest fixes and work my way down with timing chain as last resort. It would be nice to know what actually is the cause so anyone wanting to finally resolve it can. I will keep you posted on each step and the results.

The bike has mods. K&N's, Stucchi x-over, Mistrals, PC III usb. I'm running a map that Todd Egan sent supposed to be for my setup. Valves at world spec. My intake boots look bad but did the propane test and no idle change. Todd (mph) great guy very helpful sent me some boots just in case. Most say him included that they look bad on the outside but usually are not cracked through. Todd also said the TPS don't usually fail altogether but has had them develope bad spots. I was thinking, since I have the parts, I might just change the boots when I change the TPS since I will have to re-balance anyway. Also with the PC3 it is easy to up the fuel mix manually and see if it has the desired effect. Would you increase the low setting only or the mid range too. I will pull the plugs and see how they look. The bike really runs great otherwise. No pinging ever, Never stumbles above 3000rpm. The occasional stumble at idle is no big deal but the stalling at a stop is a pain. You find yourself trying to compensate with the throttle. I will start with an increase to the mixture. If that doesn't work I will try the others. If that doesn't work I might try setting the TB screws up to around 1200 (seems fast) then when it drops it will only drop to around 1100, maybe! After that I don't know if timing chain tensioner is worth the effort. I assume you have to pull the engine for this. Thanks

I finally got my TB balanced (used Ohio guys method). Reset the TPS and went well from there. Went up to Missouri meet this weekend. Bike was running smoother However the stumble is still present. It seems to not be as bad or at all when the temps are cooler. I also noticed a possible stumble at 3000 very slight. Only when holding the throttle steady. Very few incidence of this. The worst is at idle and also the coming down from high rpm and stalling. I made a parking lot adjustment to see if it would be fixed. I moved the idle up by opening the air screws some. The idle seems to readjust itself downward. I left the TB screws alone. I did this sitting in parking lot engine warm at idle and opened the screws to about 1 turn and the idle moved up to 1100 or so from 1000. Next day the bike ran pretty well in the am 62 degrees. After warming up to 90 degrees the stumble returned with the occasional stall at stop from high rpm. When restarted it will first idle at 1000 and slowly start to return to the 1100 on its own. Do we still think this is a timing chain tension issue? I have a spare TPS and am thinking of changing it, just in case it is not working consistently, do you think this is a waste of time? It seems odd to me that the idle once set will not stay in its preset location (seems to wander) Any other advice?

Gear: HJC full face helmet, alpine stars SB jacket and gloves, jeans and sneakers. Rider: 1964 idiot Damage: sprained right ankle, bruised left side rib cage. that's it. Glad your ok too. However I must say I'm surprised to read you were only wearing jeans and sneakers! I wonder if boots would have minimized the ankle injury? I read somewhere that the feet are most prone to damage do to their proxmity to the ground.

I have had several of these problems on my bike. The ECU (rear most) relay problem will usually not allow the fuel pump to pressure up. If the pump is pressuring up this is not the relay. Could still be a relay problem because sometimes they don't stop working completely. Check the clutch bullet connectors as someone mentioned. I don't think this is it. Does putting the kickstand up, and or in neutral have any effect. Is the neutral light on or intermitent. This can be a clue as to a neutral switch issue. Good luck

The red pork chops are powder coated. The grey one's were anodized (not sure) not painted. Why doesn't dealer have to fix this?

I have had several of these problems on my bike. The ECU (rear most) relay problem will usually not allow the fuel pump to pressure up. If the pump is pressuring up this is not the relay. Could still be a relay problem because sometimes they don't stop working completely. Check the clutch bullet connectors as someone mentioned. I don't think this is it. Check for tank suck (tip over valve) Does putting the kickstand up, and or in neutral have any effect. Is the neutral light on or intermitent. This can be a clue as to a neutral switch issue. Last but not least is the vapor lock issue. How hot does it get in Scotland? If so maybe! If you suspect this and you can get it to repeat have a screwdriver handy and disconnect the fuel line from the cut off to the pump (Key off) As soon as you crack the seal the air (vapor) will bleed off. Reconnect and try to start. This worked for me on more than one event. If this is the problem I have a fix. This problem usually occurs when you have been riding stop and let sit, heat radiates and the bike will not start or starts and runs poorly (bucks, kicks, etc.). Good luck

They don't live long enough. I have a 17 year old Vizsla. She was a hell of a quail dog and jet ski riding companion. She is still kicking but I know her days a numbered. Hell she might out live me! Keep riding. Do you ever get to AR on your V11?

I have done alot of riding in the Ozarks (Arkansas). If you need some road advise let me know.

I like it. Wonder how heavy it is?

I was reading on the TB balance and seem to find a difference of opinion. One said to set the air screws to 3/4 - 1 turn out and leave them alone that they are for co setting only. It states how to use the set stop screws for balance only. The other uses the stop screws and goes back to the air screws for a final adjustments Any advice on which is better? Thanks