nose2wind

I tried to check the TPS setting last night. I haven't backed of any of the screws yet just wanted to see what reading I would get. I traced the wires even have 2 at the connector. Turn on the ignition but not started. I get nothing. I'm not sure how to set the volt meter. I don't see a Mv scale. I set it at DV volts one has 3 scales 0-10,0-50,0-250. It has V-mA next to the scales. I'm not sure this is going to work when I try to set the 500-525. The V dial has 4 positions 10,50,250,500 and a side with mA .5, 50,250 I have another meter that reads 4 scales 0-3 up to 0-1200. the dial .06,3,15,60,300&up Any suggestions?

The 4 8mm nuts and reset knob are all that is needed to remove the black back cover. The reset knob is reverse threaded. Turn right to loosen. I put some soft locktite on the threads because this little knob is hard to find and can vibrate out easily. The speedo cable can stay and the cover rotated down and away. The cover is hard coming off cause it sticks to the rubber gaskets. you just have to work it free carefully. There are some washers under those nuts that also stick to the plastic cover and will go flying when it finally breaks free. The 3 allen screws on the front are for removing the indicator lights cover. I think that covers it. Good luck This sounds obvious but you are sure it is not just the bulb low filiment.

Does todd have a procedure written out on this? Do you remember which wires on the ECU? I would confim this on mine.

I had a nice fairly new Triumph Sprint ST. Those not familiar with this bike it has a single sided swing arm and a center stand. I was installing the rear wheel after a new tire and torquing the one huge nut that holds the wheel on. In the process I nudged the bike forward and it rocked off the center stand and starting moving forward on it's own. I was heeled over with the torque wrench as I watched dumbstruck as the bike rolled away smartly, slowed to a stop, leaned over and settled nicely on the side stand. The Gods were smilin!

You are stopped at a light just sitting no hand on throttle, Idle on tach around 1000 rpm. It will stumble 1 or 2 beats go back up to 1000 mis again and smooth out. Then it will be fine for awhile. The rpm usually will start to rise a little the longer you sit. It is somewhat un predictable. Sometimes if the idle gets low enough it will quit. I have since raised it some. I did the TB balance after plugs valve adjust etc. The only thing I have never done since new is TPS. Hope that helps. I might add the bike runs great at speed. A little popping at off throttle. I have Pod filters,Stucchi crossover, Mistrals, Powercomander usb with his map for my setup. I thought about increasing the mix manually in the low range on the PC if it is maybe to lean. d

I bought a twinmax and did them myself last year. I think they are fine. One thing I have never checked is the TPS. Could this cause a stumble? The bike has 45,000 miles. My theory is that maybe one of the relays ECU or Injectors is breaking contact causing this problem but I don't know why it would just do it at idle. I will switch those 2 relays and see what happens.

I know some discussion has occured about a stumble at idle on some of the v-11s. Mine has developed this trait. If the idle is set low it may quit,otherwise it will pick back up. It seems as though it is electrical in nature. Has their been a consesus as to what causes this? I had a problem before where I would be crusing at 4-5000 and it would cut out and back on, just like if you hit the kill switch off and on fast. Eventually it left me stranded and I traced it back to the ECU relay. This feels the same but at idle. Maybe I should change some of the relays ECU and Injectors. Any advice welcome. Does anyone know the relay # that can be found a radioshack etc.? Thanks

It seem to me that the pod only has to serve one side not both as the airbox. If you take each pod surface area x 2 it is more that the airbox filter. Yes/no

I finally got it solved. Here is what I ended up with. I plugged in the pigtails(resistors) that came with the lights. I got away with them before because I had stock lights on the front. The indicator would not work till I jumped past the installed diodes one on each side. This is how I left it. The stock flasher would not work so I used the electronic unit. It reacts instantly is a little faster and is a noisy bugger. Thanks for all the help! Think I will go for a ride!!!!

I got the turn indicator to work but only if I jump across one of the diodes with aligator clips. the silver band on the diodes are pointing towards the indicator. I went back to the stock lights in front just to get things back as they were before the problems started. P.S. When I was trying the resistors I had them running in line not across. Duh! I might have to go back to this method If I can't get the diode thing working. Could the one diode be bad? Maybe when I was soldering it into the line? David "Bird Dawg" Viosca "keep you nose to the wind"

Thanks for the reply, He is where things stand as of 9 am dallas time Sunday I went ahead and purchased a electronic flasher and the diodes and installed them. Each side is now isolated. Now the lights come on and I can see them weakly flashing but they stay on during the flash. Also the idiot light is not on ever. I swapped the bulb with the high beams and it is ok I have gotten confused on the color of the wiring and which lead is ground or not. What happens if you get the wires swapped? No lights maybe I have removed the resistors for now. I am going to open the tail section and try to isolate each signal to see it I have some wires crossed. Any adivise is welcome One last thing do you have any idea what the pigtails with the the wires leading into and out of the diodes are for. They came with the lights and no instructions. Should I be using them? Thanks David

Thanks for all the info however, I still don't have the problem solved. Mine stay on no blinking or winking! Tried a electronic flasher the kind that plugs into the existing socket no go. Also tried resistors no go. Then read about the turn indicator ground issue. Removed the bulb and can get each side to light up independently but still no blinking. So is the solution 2 fold? Install the diodes into the 2 wires leading from the back of the indicator bulb socket? And install a electronic flasher or resistors? Just as a side note the LED indicators came with a little pigtail that can be inserted into the circuit. I cut one open and there are some diodes with the color wire in one end and the black to the other. Does anyone know there purpose? Thanks, Bird Dawg

So the electronic flasher should work? I guess they don't require the same resistance as the old ones. This seems much easier. Just swap out the old for the new. I didn't know they even made such an animal till I read about them in an old post. I will give that a go first. I suppose they are available at most auto parts stores? Thanks, Bird

I have a fbf kit installed and working fine. Added in the front led's and no go. Just come on no blinking Read earlier post and seems to be the stock signals supply suffecient res. needed to activate the flasher but not with the added led in front. Did someone just change the flasher to a electronic unit to fix the problem or will resistors be needed? TIA bird dawg

I might have the parts you need. Could you be more specific on the rear light needs?

Do a search on the rear wheel spacer. There is all kinds of info on changing the bearing etc...

The neutral switch and the fuel solenoid valve (chk. wires) can also cause the pump to not engage. Make sure of your relays.

Mine are champion in red. I bought the end part from MPH.

Great report! I just use a floor jack under the sump for lifting the front end. You could spend 3 days easily in AR and MO. The road out west is bad till you get to NM. Co is great too!

Check where the inner hose the one that sits against the alternator cover. The rubber sheath around the brading can wear thru to the braiding and then the braiding starts cutting into the alternator cover, and the outside (other) oil line. The other bad area is where the line sits against the front of the engine above the alternator and rubs against the horizontal ribbing cast into the case. The plastic sheathing goes first then the braiding starts to rub and wear the rib. Mine had cut a 1/2 circle out of the rib and torn thru the braiding and started to cut into the rubber. Anymore and major leak time.

Thanks for the reply, I tend to agree, nothing serious and as I stated when it is on the side stand (most of the time) it doesn't occur. I first suspected the oil cooler and lines and inspected them first (this is how I found the badly worn oil line). I followed the oil smear on the frame tube up to the frame joint. I guess there would be no harm in loosening the bolt and cleaning up the joint and silicone it up. Thanks

I have noticed a drip on the right side of the bike. This occurs when the bike is parked on a work stand level (not on the side stand) I have traced it up the right engine support frame where it attaches to the spine. The hex bolt that attaches to the spine is tight. Is this a possible leak point? It is not a bad leak, does it make sense that it could leak here while level on the work stand? My guess is if there is oil in the frame and the bike is not leaning to the left, a small amount of oil is finding it's way thru this right side attachment point. It follows the right frame tube down past the oil cooler and drips onto the floor. Does this sound feasible? I would think this attachment point is isolated thru the spine unless I have developed a small crack allowing the oil to pass thru to the bolt hole. Any advice? Tia

While doing some work on the bike, noticed the left oil cooler line that leads across the front and down the right side of the frame has been rubbing on the front of the engine case. It has worn into one of the fins and was worn thru the ss braiding and about to cut thru the hose. It has also been wearing bad at the alternator cover and against the right side oil line. I cut some 1 inch pieces of fuel line (slightly larger diameter) and made slits in them so I could slip them over the oil line at the contact points. You might want to check your bikes as I would think this is not an isolated situation.

I believe they do, check with the guys at mph cycles, I usually talk to Todd. One more thing on the M4. They have a big M4 emblem on the side of the can. I would not want this on mine. later

We were discussing how the improper riding position, and the resulting numbness henceforth, can have an adverse effect while riding with a pillion and trying to have sexual relations. subsequently much advice has been offered on bar height, high foot pegs resulting in leg cramps etc. More preload has been suggested however, lending more stiffness is questionable due to increased twitcheness. Personally I feel the female should ride in front during this agressive riding exercise. It helps to have an extra set of eyes forward and the handlebar causing numbness is eliminated all together since the male participant can no longer reach the bars Does that clear thing up!