nose2wind

Definetly Vapor Lock. Lots of info on this subject. Easy fix

Docc, I would check the valves for sure. Back when mine was running bad I didn't check the valves because I had done recently. After taking the bike to MPH. I was surprized when they said the biggest problem was the exhaust valves to tight! Oxygen sensor was out too. MPH just started from scratch and re-tuned the entire bike. It runs great with the one exception being when the engine is hot it can stumble from high rpm's down to idle. This could be the timing chain tensioner that has been discussed. Good luck D

Sounds like you had a great ride. I often find myself going solo and it turns out to be some of my best rides. I also find people more willing to ask questions and start up a conversation. I think a group puts them off. Be careful. D

I have a similar condition but only at low idle. I assume the alternator is just not putting out that low. The light goes out as soon as I accelerate. Is this normal? D

Nice picture. This is not how my bike came from the factory. This is how it is now. d

A little clarification. My pump was located on the side of the frame (factory position). I tried moving the fuel line off the cylinder head no difference. I changed to the manual petcock (thinking it might burp itself) no luck. Finally thought why not move the pump further away from the heat. It was an easy swap. Haven't had a recurrance in years. Look at the pics and write up. D This doesn't explain why some have the problem and others don't. I wondered if it is a symptom of a weak but still functional pump. The premise being that a strong pump can suck the vapor through but the weak pump has a problem. Just a thought?

I had this problem years ago and fixed it by locating the pump where the filter is and filter to pump location. I did a write up with pictures. If you need to burp the line just disconnect the line at the petcock to the pump. good luck.

Happened to me also. The newer bikes have a longer bolt that will accept a cotter pin. So it won't fall out if loosened. Some of the newer bikes require this bolt be removed for tire change. Another one to add to the list is wear on the oil lines that run beside the alternator cover. Some will rub against the cover and wear through the braiding. I used a small piece of hose split and wrapped around the line to space it away from the cover. Check your rear wheel bearing at every tire change. Carry spare fuses and relay.

It is a air temp sensor. I run pods and like them alot. I wouldn't change them for a performance increase. For looks and ease of maint. they are a plus. I located the temp sensor to the frame and then moved it later due to possible heat saturation in the summer. I put it inside a pvc cap you buy for irigation pipe and moved it up behind the headlight with zip ties. MPH replaced it once as it was bad. He said there is a set % it alters the mixture. It is not that much if it were not working you might hardley notice. Ok d

Need replacement tach.

Do we get to count the miles not indicated due to speedo/speedo drive repair. If so I have about 55,000 real miles. No commuting miles.

This is such an easy fix. Just put your wife to work on it. Before she gets that fixed you will spot something else and so on and so forth. She won't have time or energy for any friends. Ha! d

Ratchet, that was my bike that had this same leak/seap. I pulled the bolt and coated the threads with blue locktite and re-inserted the bolt. So far no more leak! Yeah. Easy fix! d

You are SUPPOSED to use the key. Agreed, I use the key. I was also told (on a Triumph) that when you shut the bike down with the key info is sent to the ECU, such as throttle position etc. This is supposed to help the bike on startup. ?? I'm skeptical. Also, most of the time, I shut the bike down for gas, lunch, etc. I'm going to take the key with me. Why turn it off twice? The kill switch just stops the engine leaving everything else on and is intended for emergency when you are pinned under there and a passer by can't find the key but might spot the big red button. I think the kill switch is left over b.s. from the dark ages when the key was in odd locations like under the seat or below the forks etc.. Now that it is up on top near the kill switch I think it is redundant. I guess you could argue you don't have to take you hand off the bars to shut the bike down from the kill switch. If I'm pinned under the bike this won't be a problem! I can't think of any situation where I'm running the bike moving or not when I must shut the bike down and can't let go of the grip. Enough said, bird dawg I want some bodge points too. I don't use the key or kill switch. I lean over and quickly reach down and pull both plug wires. Works every time.

If is always does it, it might be the engine temperature sensor and not vapour lock. If you want to make sure it is Vapor Lock. Next time it refuses to start. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel shut off. You will get a big gas bubble (burp)! Reconnect the line and the bike will start right up. If a manual cut off (don't forget to turn the fuel off and back on). Later

I am leaving off the centering collars for the spacer to make the next bearing replacement more reasonable. Other than the hassle centering the spacer each time the wheel goes back on, I don't suppose there is more trouble leaving the little buggers out? Docc, I put the centering collars back in but I moved them close together towards the center of the spacer. When trying to punch out the bearing I can rock the spacer back and forth to get at the bearing. I change out my tires more often and like the ease of putting the axle back thru without dealing with the spacer not lining up. This is all in theory as I have not had to do the bearing a second time. I didn't use one of those crappy "French" bearings in my bike. That is the type (I fart in your general direction) which went to hell on me the first time!! Good luck!! You might as well go back and change it now!! Later, Bird Dawg

Sounds like the vapor lock problem. Their are different ideas on how to fix it. I relocated the pump and fixed mine. Some say it can be fixed by wrapping in heat shield material. Do a search under vapor lock. Hope this helps@!

2000 v11s 55,000 miles No spring problem here! Oh I did have the wire loop on the kickstand break about 50,000 miles ago. Does that count? Sorry! Bird dawg

Went thru all this bs on my bike. Per previous post the stock flasher works off the resistance of the incandecent bulbs. When you add the 2 led's the flasher will work off the 2 remaning stock T.S. When you added the 2 remaining led's at the rear no more working T.S. If you go to an auto store they will stock an electronic flasher with the same socket as the stock wagner. This should fix your problem. If not you will have to add some resistors or a relay that some cycle shops cary to go with the led's. Hope this helps!

I had this happen years back. If you mean very short maybe a second or less. I would be crusing at 5000 running fine and get a blip like someone turning the power off and on. It eventually got worse more often and finally just quite and left me stranded. Turned out to be the ECU relay. I know you changed them so maybe you could swap two around and see if it goes away. Good luck!

Simply getting the bleed nipple pointing UP is usually all it takes, but I've also found that rapping on the dismounted caliper with a block I had a similar brake drag overheating (due to mentioned push rod play). My seals were fine. Also I have had major bleeding issues and found dismounting the caliper un-clipping the brake line from swing arm and passing the whole caliper with line through to the other side. Then raise caliper high as possible then bleed with tapping quick and easy.

Yes, The clutch was getting a little grabby. This is gone. I have not had a re-occurance of the skipped gear from 3rd up to 5th. It generally just shifts smoother and doesn't leak either! Ready for another 50,000. P.S. MPH recommends running syn. all the way around. Also on that frame dribble we looked at. MPH recommended pulling the bolt and putting it back with some thread locker. I have done this and will let you know if it works. Also my coil mounts are holding as well. NO GLUE! Later

Just to preface, I have a 2000 v11s that developed the stumble,chuff,stall symptons we are all discussing. I decided partly due to a tranny recall to let Mike at MPH give it a go. He felt after some discussion it had nothing to due with the chain tensioner. I picked up the bike yesterday and returned home. Today I took it for a nice hot and humid test ride. The bike runs great! I don't think it has run this good since I have had it (6years). It is mostly noticed how easy it starts and runs smooth even in the low steady throttle settings. A couple of times I thought it was going to quit when coming to a stop. This is because the idle is set low around 1000 to 900. It just sits there thumping along. Not the slightest indication of a stumble! So what was the problem? Mainly to tight exhaust valves. Some had mentioned early on to check the valves (world spec). I had done this so eliminated it as an issue. Looking back It is hard to believe I might have gotten this wrong (not to difficult a procedure). Also I need to start writing things down as to what milage I have done what procedure. I have been going on memory and could have misjudged what milage I set (or screwed up the valves). They were at 01 I believe. Could they have gotten this tight on there own? Possibly! The intakes were to loose. The TPS was also set to low. The Air temp sensor was bad. MPH completely reset the whole bike from scratch. New plugs,balance etc... Well there you have it. I don't need a new chain tensioner! I need to check my valves every 6000 miles and make sure I do it right! All those having these symptons. I recommend checking your whole basic set up or let someone like MPH do it for you. It should go without saying I would recommend MPH to anyone within driving range. I could have taken my bike to a dallas shop, but chose to trailer the bike 5 hrs away. MPH also went the extra mile when it came to some little items I had not even mentioned. Since I have looked over the bike I have noticed some vent lines re-routed and nicely zip tied in place. New cap nuts on the exhaust etc... Lots of little stuff done that shows there skill and interest in the bikes they work on. Ride Safe!