quazi-moto

Well, wadda ya know? I guess that means the V-Twin Transmission Oil with Shockproof is nothing but chalky horse piss also!

What's an old bike?

I'm not familiar with Spencers, but wasn't there another company that was rebuilding seats. I think the name started with the letter B. Is Rich Maund still active doing the V11 seats?

What's a good stand for performing maintenance work on a V11?

I got the regular Diablo's. Not Strada or Corsa, but what a difference over the stock Bridgestones! The bike just feels so much more sure-footed through the corners and the steering feels a lot lighter also. I wish I hadn't waited so long to try them.

At one point I had a loose boot and the bike was really acting up because of it. It wasn't cracked, but the clamp wasn't very secure and the bike was popping, backfiring and just running like cr*p in general. As if it weren't running lean enough already, but this was before I sorted out my injection woes.

I cured my bikes ills by balancing the TB's with a Twinmax gauge, setting the TPS with a voltmeter and last, but not least installing a My15M ECU. It runs great now. I didn't have much luck with a Power Commander, as much as I tried. I had it "tuned" by two different shops to no avail. There's info on this forum that covers throttle body balancing pretty extensively. As Ouiji stated the white knob is for syncing the butterflies. If I remember correctly I disconnected the linkage to the left side TB and set the stop screw for the butterfly on the right side first, then I connected the linkage and balanced the TB's with the white knob while observing the Twinmax gauge reading. Once it is set it should hold its adjustment for quite a long time. Also, if my memory serves me correctly I checked the TPS voltage after setting the stop screw on the right side TB because it will change if the butterfly is in a different position. After that it became a matter of tweaking the map. After a couple shakedown runs I asked Cliff if he could send me a fatter (richer) map with a bumped mid-range. The map he sent me was richened a little across the board and richened a little more in the mid-range. Now it runs better than ever. Even when it was stock it would sputter and sometimes die pulling up to a stop, and it would always stumble a bit through the mid-range also. The addition of an X-pipe, Staintunes and open lid air filter pretty much necessitated a major tweaking of the fuel injection system. Now that its all sorted out the bike runs like a dream.

I'm surprised that no one has responded to this thread since it seems to be a pretty hot topic. Seems like a cool solution though.

I just scored a Roper knock-off, but I must say its a beautifully machined piece of stainless. Now, where's the best source for the requisite gaskets that will be involved and how much oil should I run in the sump?

No pics?

I was tooling around on some semi-rural county roads today and the bike up and quit without any warning. Pulled the last relay out (closest to tail section) and inserted a spare that I had with me and I was back in business. I'm wondering if I should run a Bosch or Omron in this position?

I tried super-gluing mine back together, but its only a temporary fix at best. I ended up ordering some replacements through an online outfit that specializes in vibration dampening mounts. Obviously, these aren't standard Guzzi replacements, but they're heavier duty than stock.

Well Pete if you're a charlatan at least I hope you're not a harlot!

Is that the Titanio ECU? I put a My15M ECU in my '02 LeMans and couldn't be happier.

Classic Bike! Great features and technical info. American rags are all tits & arse, all show and no go.

IMHO an AGM battery like the Hawker Oddysey is a better bet than a gel type battery.

Improper heat treatment can lead to premature lobe wear, but if the cam is made right and the lobes get wiped out there's either a lubrication problem or the lifters weren't replaced with the cam. That's pretty unfortunate that it happened twice though.

When one of my relays went bad the bike would actually cut out for a second or two although I wouldn't characterize this as stumbling/stuttering. Back when the bike was running too lean it would stumble though, sometimes even die pulling up to a stop. After trying a power commander and having the bike "tuned" by two different shops, I resolved the lean condition by getting a My15M ECU unit and I had Cliff fatten up the map a little. The bike runs better than it did stock.

The oil level was the culprit, but it was only down about 1/2 quart. This leads me to believe that a sloppage sheet is a worthwhile investment.

In the past this only happened to me once before. Accelerating briskly from a stop and the oil pressure light flickers on momentarily. Today it happened twice, once on the way in to work and once again on the way home. I didn't really gun it very hard either. When I got back home I pulled the dipstick and I was down about 1/2 quart so I topped her off with my good old Amsoil 20w50. The only other time this has happened was when the oil level was down 1/2 quart. I want some peace of mind so I'm lookin' for a sloppage sheet.

Try balancing the throttle bodies. If that doesn't help its probably running a little too lean.

I'm running Staintunes, FBF cross-over and FBF intake along with a My15M ECU. A while back I was getting severe tank suck and if I opened the filler cap I not only got a huge "woosh" but I could visibly see the tank go back to its normal shape. I took a rubber bulb type syringe and blew out the little doo-dad inside the filler neck and haven't had a problem since. FWIW I'm not bothered by the additional intake noise from the lidless filter kit, just don't put me on a Harley with open pipes.

Courageous Cat & Minute Mouse

Orange Hiwatt Sound City It's all good. Now if I could just run my Guzzi exhaust through an Ampeg SVT I'd have some real bark!

My old A65 sure could use a roller bearing on the timing side. That and a conversion to end feed lubrication.