quazi-moto

The PF3C is the stock TPS unit. The PF4C is the more affordable (Harley-style) unit. Both are made by Marelli. Seat-of-the-pants difference is negligible.

After putting the bike through its paces with a few shakedown runs I'm really pleased with the latest map I received from Cliff. It has across the board enrichment with an extra dose in the midrange and this is just what the Goose needed! No more stumbling, popping, coughing, etc. She pulls like a locomotive.

Is there a need to be concerned about plastic bearing cages when using the RLHS strawberry shake?

This is straying from the thread, but what's a My15M-MKII? Cliff just sent me a new map for (my) My15M and the bike is running excellent! I'm not even running closed loop.

That EME site has some nice stuff. Overhaul kits and upgraded field magnet housings as well as OEM replacement starters. My bike will sometimes stop cranking during cold start ups and I can hear it whining away. It seems okay on hot re-starts. The battery & charging system seem to be okay so maybe its time for a rebuild or replacement.

I use a Hawker Oddity myself with decent results. I could be way off base, but I was under the assumption that if a battery was rated at 13ah @ a 10 hour rate then it would need to be charged at 1.3 amps for ten hours to bring it up from fully discharged to fully charged. I'd be very cautious about charging the little oddity at 13 amps. The sucker might boil dry.

The shloppy shleet won't change the clearance between the bottom of the filter and the manhole cover. I think I'm just going to make up a spacer for the manhole cover that will provide a little clearance between the nut on the filter and the manhole cover. I don't want the filter actually making contact with the manhole cover. I don't think that would be wise.

Occasionally on cold start ups my starter will make funky noises and actually stop cranking. The battery and charging system seem to be up to snuff. Hot re-starts are usually uneventful.

Not me, but just an old friend... Or is that fiend?

I'm a little techno-ignorant so tell me, how do I post my avatar?

Shucks, I don't think the sloopy sheet will provide any extra clearance for the filter because it just drops the whole upper sump plate down a bit leading me to believe that the clearance between the bottom of the filter and manhole cover will remain unchanged. Oh well, I'd still like to get me a sloppy plate though.

I posted in another thread about this, but just to reiterate I'm ready to spring for a glockenschpeil, er, uh I mean a schloppy scheet.

Well, since Uncle Sam just gave me back some dough I'm ready to buck up for a sloppage sheet. I'm in the states and have a PayPal account. I'll order the associated gaskets & goodies from a stateside supplier.

I've chamfered linings for drum brakes and I suppose it could be done on disc brake pads as well, but I've never done it before.

If Pete still has a few schloppy scheetz on hand I should probably spring for one as it will kill two birds with one stone. In a manner of speaking anyway.

Welp, my attempt at installing the K&N HP-1002 oil filter didn't quite work. The fancy little nut on the bottom of the filter makes contact with the manhole cover and as a result the sump can't be re-installed properly. A small spacer fitted between the manhole cover and sump would be an adequate fix though. Its only a matter of maybe .030" - .040", if that. A couple things I noticed in terms of construction of the filters is that the gasket is appreciably thicker on the UFI filter (this was already pointed out in another thread) and the distance from the gasket down to the start of the 3/4"-16 thread is appreciably bigger on the UFI filter. Probably in the neighborhood of .100" (approx.) and this might explain why a few of these have fallen right off into the sump. I'm going to make up a manhole spacer and run the K&N filter. I don't trust the UFI.

After a little more investigating it appears that the Wix 51215 filter has no anti-drainback valve. I'm not sure if it matters in a vertically mounted application, but for peace of mind the Wix 51348 might be a better choice. Same goes for Napa.

Been doin' a little homework with regard to motorcycle specific oil filters and here's what I've come up with so far: 1) Purolator : ML16822 (Note: This is not a Pure-One filter) 2) Wix : 51215 (Direct replacement according to Wix website) 3) Hastings : LF576 FWIW: The Wix filter fits a lot of Harleys as well and is available in a Napa version (P/N: 1215). The Purolator PL10241 (non-M/C specific) Pure-One filter has a PTFE treated silicon gasket for "easy removal" so I don't know if that's really what I want on the Guzzi. I didn't find much info on the Hastings filter. I'm going to try the K&N HP-1002 (non-M/C specific) for now, it has a stout canister and I like the little nut spot welded on the bottom.

Looks like the Purolator Pure One is the winner based on those comparisons. It also looks like the gasket material is different from the rest. Its also interesting to note that the anti-drainback valve isn't really required in a vertically mounted filter.

If I were to drop the sump again I would just install a different brand of filter rather than trying to make the UFI a little tighter. I could re-use the oil if I'm careful enough.

Just to clarify what I posted, I basically used the same approach that I've always used on automotive filters which is the use of a wrench to remove the old filter and only hand tight for the new filter. I make a second attempt after thoroughly wiping the filter canister clean and my hand as well. I can usually turn it a tad more on the second attempt. With automotive filters this has always worked for me and I always have to rely on a wrench for removal. When I removed the dealer installed UFI I had to use a wrench, but I don't know if a wrench was used when it was installed by the dealer. Perhaps the term "paranoia" was a poor choice of words, but I am a little concerned about it.

It appears that all I've read about oil filters backing off is always in reference to the UFI oil filter. When I did my most recent oil change I used a UFI because I had a few already on hand in the garage. After reading all the horror stories I'm beginning to wish that I had used a different brand of filter. I dropped the sump when I did the oil change and removing the old filter (dealer installed UFI) took some leverage with the filter wrench. I installed the new one after filling it with oil and oiling the gasket. I tightened it the best I could by hand and no more. Should I just keep an eye on the oil pressure idiot light or what? Amsoil 20w50 synthetic ain't exactly cheap so I don't feel like dumping it right away if I can avoid it. In the future I'll probably run the K&N HP-1002 filter.

I've contacted Traxxion Dynamics here in the states about a similar conversion. I'll probably wait until the riding season is over for this year, but its something that I'm seriously considering.

It might look like a tempting strawberry shake, but don't drink the stuff Guv'nah!

Another vote for the PC545.