quazi-moto

That's pretty much what I figured. I'd be better off with different fork springs and rear shock rather than toying around with the C/R settings. Maybe next season it'll be upgrade time!

Okay, I was initially leaning towards the Corsas, but perhaps that won't be necessary and maybe the regular Diablos will suffice. If I can get 5K miles out of a set I'd be content. Should I be running a 170 in the back? I didn't realize that the 180 was actually oversize for the LeMans rim width. Also, would a Corsa in the front and a regular Diablo in the rear be a decent set-up for a street ridden bike that will see a lot of canyon carving?

Do any of the aftermarket rear shock offerings simlpy just bolt on? Or does one have to fabricate custom bracketry, etc.?

I've had some starting quirks on my '02 LeMans which have become more frequent and annoying. Firstly, sometimes when I hit the button I get nothing, no cranking at all. Then if I cut the bars a little it'll usually start to crank. Secondly, with the Odyssey battery it cranks right over from cold, but once the motor is thoroughly warmed up it cranks very slowly after re-starting. It behaves like there's some serious amp draw issue or something. It might just be some crusty connections, I don't know yet for sure.

...hmmm, When they call for "stiff" on front C and R do they mean full stiff?

How do you guys like to set up your suspension for fast road work? I've never adjusted anything on my '02 LeMans, but the front end dives with a vengeance when I clamp hard on the fornt binders. I guess a little more compression damping is in order. Is an Ohlins shock the best bet for the rear?

My '02 LeMans just turned 7K miles and I'm still running the OE Bridgestones. The front is badly cupped. The rear looks okay, but the bike doesn't feel as sure footed as it once did. I'm considering the Diablo Corsa's for next season. Anyone with first hand experience feel free to chime in. Should I stick with stock sizes?

With the new ECU that comes with the MG Ti exhaust kit, are there any lean spots over the entire RPM range?

Is the fuel trim adjustment underneath the plug/bung thingy on the ECU?

The stuff for syncromesh trannies is formulated to have the proper amount of friction to work correctly with synchro's which are usually made of brass and are very common in automotive transmissions. Motorcycle gearboxes (all the ones that I've worked on at least) are constant mesh and don't have any synchro's. They do have sliding and non-sliding gears, dogs, shift forks and some sort of shift drum, cam plate, etc. It would be my educated guess that most cycle trannies would benefit from the use of RL Heavy Shock-proof type gear oil. It wouldn't be the hot ticket for the T-5 trannie in my Mustang however because of the friction thang.

I like the Staintunes for both appearance and sound. On trailing throttle the bike sounds like a big old semi with a jake brake!

There's been some discussion that the 1.5M ECU has an inherent lean spot in the mid-range that a PCIII can't fully correct. I don't know if that's true or not, but I've had trouble getting rid of that pesky lean area around 3500-4000 RPM. Changing to the Harley TPS seems to have helped on the bottom end. No more crapping out at red lights! I had a dealer fart around with my map, but even they couldn't completely dial out the lean zone. I ended up using the faceplate buttons to richen up the mid-range, but it was only semi-effective (is that a word?). I'm thinking dyno or a different ECU like the MY15M unit. I wonder if the ECU's that come with the titanium muffler kits offer better mid-range fuel delivery. Its interesting that my bike seems to run great when its cold, but after its up to operating temperature and the sensor on the cylinder head starts talking to Mr. ECU the dang thing leans out and starts to sputter in the mid-range. Other than that the goose runs pretty well.

I should try the swap since I usually end up holding in the clutch lever whilst (sounds british eh???) pushing up on the fast idle lever. Its a contortionist undertaking that I'd rather not do if avoidable.

biesel, Those shiny exhaust header pipes look awesome! I've got Staintune cans on my bike and the satin (brushed stainless???) pipes and X-over don't really match the shiny Staintunes.

One of my side covers is cracked on my '02 LeMans and it was indeed a common problem. I'm pretty sure they're a recall item. I didn't have mine replaced though. I'd rather ride than deal with dealers!

Mike, Let me clarify my post. I'm not dismissing the accelerator pump as a toy or gimmick, but I figured that if I heard some favorable reviews about it, that I might give it a whirl once I get my map sorted on the dyno. I couldn't really expect it to "fix" my midrange hiccups since its not designed to make a lousy map into a good one.

I've got the FBF intake along with Stucchi X-over and a pair of Staintunes on my'02 LeMans. I had a dealer load a custom map in my PCIII and they even manipulated the map to try and fatten up the midrange. I still get a little bit of surging between 3500-4000 RPM. The PF4C TPS sensor seems to have helped a little bit and the bike feels stronger at low revs. Balancing the TB's with the Twinmax also tamed some of the vibes, but the bike still has a tendency to cough between 3500-4000 RPM. This is what I meant by the "dreaded lean midrange" condition which several V11 owners have spoken about. Many have reported similar symptoms right in the RPM range that I mentioned. I plan on going to a tuning center with a dyno to get the map dialed in. I was just curious if the accelerator pump utility is worth toying around with. Some people say that they like the abrupt throttle response that the accelerator pump can provide. As far as using it as a band aid to improve a lousy map, I don't think that would be the way to go since it wouldn't really do much, if anything, at steady cruising speeds. I just thought it might be fun to toy with once I get my map sorted on the dyno.

Anyone try the accelerator pump utility in their PCIII? Can it be tweaked to tame the dreaded lean midrange condition that seems to be inherent in the 1.5M ECU?

I used a pair of pins that I took from a new shirt that I had received as a gift. Some call me thrifty. That's polite talk which really means that I'm just plain cheap. Anyway I was able to get my voltage readings this way when I replaced the stock TPS sensor with the Harley version. I set it for 150mv with the throttle plate closed and then adjusted the throttle stop screw until I was reading around 510mv. Hopefully this is the correct procedure because these values (I believe) are for a stock TPS sensor. After I obtained the 510mv reading I balanced the TB's with a Twinmax unit (nice) by adjusting the left hand stop screw. Then I cracked open the airbleeds (1/2 turn) and doublechecked for balance. A minor tweak on the left hand air bleed had the Twinmax right on zero. I had to adjust the linkage bar before re-connecting it or it would have pulled the right throttle plate off the stop screw. After doublechecking for cylinder balance I also checked the TPS sensor voltage to make sure nothing had moved. All was well so I embarked upon a little shakedown run. The bike felt smoother and seemed to be running a tad richer off idle, but it still leans out and surges a little in the midrange. This is now confined to around 3500-4000 RPM so overall running has been improved, but not quite perfecto! I have the PCIII mounted on this '02 LeMans along with FBF intake, Stucci X-over and Staintunes. I had read that the 1.5M ECU has a fuel trim screw under the little bung plug thing, but I didn't notice it when I removed the plug so I just popped the plug back in and let it be. There's an approved tuning center not far from where I live so my next stop is the dyno shop to get the injection map sorted out.

I've had similar symptoms with my '02 LeMans. Its been compounded by the addition of Staintunes, Stucchi x-over and FBF intake kit. I've got a PCIII on it and I just swapped out the TPS sensor for the Harley style unit which is made by Marelli also. On a Guzzi this TPS sensor is supposed to allow the bike to run a little richer in the low to mid RPM range. I also used a Twinmax balancer unit to synch the throttle bodies. I disconnected the linkage bar and closed the air bleed screws. I set the right hand throttle stop first to get the appropriate signal voltage (500-525mv) and then I connected the Twinmax unit and fired up the bike. Then I adjusted the left hand stop screw for balance. I blipped the throttle a little to check for consistent balance. Then I cracked open the air bleeds about a 1/2 turn and checked again for balance. All was well so I re-connected the link bar, after a little adjustment of the white knob so as not to disrupt anything. I did a final check for balance at idle and with some throttle applied. I also checked the TPS voltage again and everything was spot on. Out on the road the bike feels smoother, but it still surges a little bit between 3500-4000 RPM or thereabouts. I think my next move is to bring it to a tuning center with a dyno to get the map in the PCIII tweaked.

I've got work this Sunday so maybe next weekend might be better. I haven't been up to Perkins' at all this year.

Mike, That must have been someone else. Chicks avoid me like the plague!

Ed, I thought that I was the only one that did that sort of thing! Just kidding, but I also ride up to Harriman quite often and usually take a run up to Perkins although this year I haven't had much of a chance since I'm now working seven days a week.

Once I get my throttle body issues sorted out I plan on taking my bike to Advanced Cycle Tech. in Noo Joizy.

Well, I'm in Fair Lawn, but my '02 LeMans is red/gray.