docc

So, I was given the proper O-rings to perform this task. They are simply under a plug beneath the valve cover, no need to disturb the rocker assembly or the head bolts.. I absolutely could not get that 10mm hex-drive plug loose. Out came the Gedore 500 kg machinist's hammer and the impact tool. No budge. I quit before tearing it up. Perhaps with the tank off, I could apply heat and try again . . .

Perhaps I can stop filling the neck well up into the tank and see if this improves or abates. Maybe it only occurs after a fill up and that's why it has been so sporadic. As the tank heat soaks from the engine after you park it post tank fill they will often pass some fuel out the vent docc. Try topping right up and not so full and see the difference if any with regards to "spooging" Ciao Will do. Odd that it is relatively new behavior. It seemed to have started after I completely emptied the tank to measure the trapped fuel on the right side. Yet, I thought maybe it is a characteristic of the fuel formula I've been running. Dunno, but it is a nasty, oily spooge. It occurred to me that the Guzzi gods are taking it out on me for how this turned out . . .

Lighter flywheel?

When I saw Tom said it was "too hot to ride", I worried that he had to kindle the V11 to thaw out lutefisk in the Norwegian winter . . . Now I'm having trouble feeling sorry for you, Buddy. You had me going , there for a while . . .

Dunno but if I were to guess: https://www.electrosport.com/collections/regulator-rectifiers/products/esr515-regulator-rectifier-ducati-1-phase-charge-light-output ESR 515, then. Thanks for the clarification. Let us know how it works out . . .

Which one is that? (OEM?) https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20451&p=235432 Okay, so "Electrosport." I see you asked, in that linked thread, "Which Electrosport is it?" , but I don't see a reply to that question. So, which Electrosport is it?

Here is a post in one of those threads ("Sticking Clutch") that has a link to craigsinclair's comments, among several other links. The discussion about the RAM clutch in that thread runs from page 2/ Post#25 to page 4/ Post# 54. This will be a good thread to bring together those, like Paradiso, who have done this fitment successfully.

Perhaps I can stop filling the neck well up into the tank and see if this improves or abates. Maybe it only occurs after a fill up and that's why it has been so sporadic.

This is absolutely true. Moto Guzzi replaced my entire throttle body/injector assembly for this drip point, but my excellent dealer taught me that even running it briefly, say to show off or enjoy the beautiful sound, would dribble the throttle body shafts. When it was new, I started it up like that A LOT. Can't figure out how this spooge purges from the tank vent only after it has sat, sometimes for days and days. I took the discussion back over to the Crankcase Vent Return Line thread since I've been trying to solve it that way.

Yeah, bud. There ya go. Consider removing the pivot bolt and servicing the whole shebang. you've got this!

Which one is that? (OEM?)

The connections ("pawls") look splayed to me, buddy. Shortening the connector shaft may be worthwhile. This would be a good starting point, to fully fettle and tune this shift mechanism. Totally worth the effort before cracking into the gearbox, itself. Cycle it while looking for binding points. It is a mess of a thing with lots of potential binding points.

All good. Pretty sure your insight got antmanbee running. But, yeah, need a new thread on "Gas Spooge." I can't seem to get mine to stop! WTH?

[Edit/ Feb 6, 2019: LuckyPhil's image went dead in that last post, so I posted one of his Chuck-made/LuckyPhil Extended Shift Levers on my Sport.] "Lucky Phil extender mod " : https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19580&hl=+shift%20+lever&page=1

Go to this thread to see the full image: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18593&p=198257

Shim stock for the pivot:

Wow, man! So great you have this V11 back on the road! Welldone and congratulations! antmanbee ! Now time for the fettling and fine tuning . . . First order of business to to asses and adjust the external shift mechanism. Observe whether anything in that train of parts strikes any obstruction in the throw. Look to see that the two "pawls" that attach to the connecting rod are parallel. If there is excessive play in the foot lever, shim it to the subframe and adjust the tension on the pivot bolt/ lock nut so that the pivot is free, but no excessive play. (I'm looking for an image of that "parallelogram" arrangement . . .)

In a curious development, Andy York displayed an image of some similar "gas spooge" (as he so apply calls it) under his LeMans. Some kind of slippery, yellow goop. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20660&p=237368 "on a different note....I could swear mine was fuel injected but this sure looks like gas spooge " ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I thought, "Hey, that looks just like my nefarious spooge!" After fuss-fitting the return line and sourcing replacement parts (not yet fitted), the spooge returned in the night, spontaneously, again. The return line looked dry while the tank vent looked wet, so I put a wee spooge bag over it and waited like a trapper baiting snipe. And LO! Captured spooge! What the hell is this yuck?

Dang. That looks like the same funky spooge that keeps showing up under my Sport. I kept coming back to the crankcase vent return line, and *maybe* it had issues, too. Yet, I isolated the tip of the tank vent after the nasty spooge returned and installed a spooge bag over the tank vent. Lo and behold: captured spooge!

I see craigsinclair has not logged in here for a couple months. Maybe his post in his thread, "Shifting woes . . .", will help: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19621&p=218685

Outstanding, antmanbee! From experience, I can say that Andy will work for > Liquido Speciale . . .

Thanks, Meinolf! Will do a resynch. I noticed several uneven clear spaces in the mercury columns this last time and struggled to get the columns even. I have always assumed this is water that has condensed onto the mercury. Since the bike should be warmed up to synch, I’ll get the chance to see if there is any noticeable change from the TPS adjustment.

TPS Baseline with the throttle plate completely closed = 157 millivolts. We have Meinolf to thank for this very specific derivation. There is no specific voltage for the TPS idle voltage or "degrees opening." Put that wherever you and the V11 are happy for your conditions and preferences (Step#6) (I am not understanding "max reading of each cylinder" . . . )

After skipping Step 2, TPS Baseline reset, on my last two Tune-ups, and reading more of what Meinolf has shared with us about the TPS, I removed any reference to skipping this step. It's only six steps. Just do it!

After my recent 5,000 mile/ 8.000 km tune-up, my Sport renewed it's undesirable popping and burbling on the over-run (closed throttle decelerating), idle stumble, with popping and hiccups below 3,500 rpm. But, it really ran like the cliché scalded dog 4,000 to redline. I had decided to skip the TPS reset and simply adjusted the valves, new plugs, and throttle body balance. I looked at my notes and see I skipped the TPS last time as well. No good. TPS was 172 mv. I have set it back to 157 mv, but probably will not get to test ride for some time. So, at 172 mv, would this account for why it ran wildly stronger in the upper range and lost its ability to stay stable below 3500? [Amended the Decent Tune-up to retain emphasis on this critical step.]