docc
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Posts posted by docc
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The even wear from the inside pad to outside tells me my pistons have even movement. I flushed the fluid today with the caliper in situ, but will equalize the piston movement again, with them bathed in fresh fluid when my Brembo pads come in a couple days and turn the bleeder upright for the final bleed. I *feel like* flushing with the fresh fluid is good after the last of the brake cleaning solvents have been applied.
While the brake is off, the wheel is easy to remove and I'll bleed the clutch as well.
I do wonder how the Brembo pads are rated for friction? I can't find the spec anywhere and hope it is shown on the packaging. I don't think I want HH friction on the rear anymore . . .
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Not sure I could get my tank off and on in under two hours for the air and fuel filters alone . . .
Like I said, slow and old, and prone to being slowed by latte - not necessarily in that order . . .
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There is a torque spec for the V11 oil filter?
It is printed on the UFI filter. I have saved this from the German V11 site (translation into English my own):
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Tightening torques exist for the UFI filter. The old one (8 layer) 12 Nm, the new one (14 layer) for the Carc models 15 Nm. On both of these filters the on printed tightening torque is 10-12 Nm. To change the filter, you need a filter tool and if possible, a torque tool. Up till 2009 there were oil leaks because of an imperfect seal. Mainly on Norge, Breva, Griso 850/1100, 1200Sport2V, Bellagio and Cali Vintage. Guzzi recommends according the training material from 3/2010 to replace the gasket of the filter with a new gasket Cod. 981115. This gasket has the same measurements, but the material has different properties. If the manufacturing date of the filter is before 2009, the gasket needs to be changed.
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12Nm is about 9ft pounds. That seems very low, I can easily hand tighten to 15 foot pounds.
I tried to simply turn my filter tool on a torque wrench with my (busted-up) bare hand and could not get quite to 9 NM. Looks like 15NM may be more reliable (?)
I will endeavor to measure the torque on the "1 & 1/8" turns past contact acknowledging that there are so many variables.
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"idle adjustment" and "bolt tightening" could mean a lot of things. Or next-to-nothing.
Even the oil filter change could entail sump removal. Or not?
Air and fuel filters involve tank removal.
So many shops just charge "book hours." Quick&dirty math looks like six hours of work to me, but I'm old
, slow 
, and try to be careful 
.And, most importantly, I'm no professional mechanic. Just a GWiT (Guy With Tools)
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Only a guy who goes by "dangerous" has an industrial sized roll of CAUTION tape under his bench . . .
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I had to add this quote from
Kiwi_Roy he posted in another thread:"If you don't grease the battery terminals lead Oxide Forms on them, this is an insulator which will eventually creep in and even disconnect the terminals from the lugs even when the bolts are tight, scraping the terminals and smearing with a little Vaseline coats the metal prevents the Oxygen getting at the Lead., You may have noticed when you touch your meter leads on the posts it doesn't make contact until you jab the points thru the Lead Oxide layer. I find most guys are skeptical about this, I cut my teeth on large traction batteries."
And this:
MAINTAIN YOUR GROUNDS! Both from the regulator case to the engine and the Negative battery cable able to the gearbox!
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A Chook-made LookyPhil Shift-binky?
Moost have one!
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Geez I get 50,000 miles or better out of my rear pads
Heh -
, well, I suppose I should have said, "If you average abut 36.5 miles per US gallon, use up rear tires in about 4,200 miles, and ride as smoothly as a tracked vehicle pushing down trees (like me) , your rear brake pads may only last about 10,000 miles."If, on the other hand, you ride like the wind, the rear brake is only being used to space the wheel off the swingarm, and you only slow down for lunch, you get something like five times that out of them!
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I found the Brembo pads at Moto International after sussing out that the Brembo caliper is #F05.
I know they won't last as long as the more aggressive pads, but I better start treating that rear rotor like I'm waltzing with your gran-ma!
I did want to post this reminder that the service interval on the rear brake pads, fluid change, and piston/pin service is pretty limited even if you don't "use" your rear brake much.
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Yeah, seems some sintered metal pads have a lot more, or even more "aggressive," metal than others.
I thought the EBC were pretty hard on my original front rotors. Mind you, my original rear rotor is pretty rough as well.
I recall the Brembo, although also sintered metal pads, *seemed* gentler than these.
Surely they (Brembo rear pads) are a common fitment?
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Worked the two pistons in and out using brake cleaner. The shop smells like a dry cleaner that serves beer.
The inside (inboard) piston is always the most sticky, and the pad guide pin was rusty already. Buffed it out and applied silicone grease. Tomorrow, will remove the caliper, turn the bleeder to the top and replace the fluid.
I won't put the EBC back in. Any US sources of replacement Brembo for the rear brake would be appreciated . . .
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What's the battery voltage, key on?
Does the headlight come on with the key?
What's the voltage after the lights are on two on three minutes?
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Sounds like a dead battery (maybe combined with several dirty/corroded connections). Do you have a "good" digital voltmeter?
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The EBC say "Made in USA" and I've used them before, but I don't like how aggressive they are (at least the HH). The pads on the right are the Volar Motorsport referenced in post#1.
They seem more "organic" while the EBC have turned shiny, metallic, and full of spaces and gaps.
Struggling to find Brembo replacements.
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Ignition Switch is the one with the key, Run Switch is by the right "grip" above the starter button.
You must pull in the clutch while starting.
What do you hear?
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Comes time to have a look at the rear brake, well known on the V11 to eat pads, stick pistons, and hydrate its own fluid.
Normally, I don't expect rear pads to last beyond 10,000 miles, and these EBC HH (left) are at 11,000.
While the pad material is not *gone* (let's realize these pads don't have much material to begin with), the surface looks to have turned to metal.
The cheap Chinese pad is pictured on the right with only 3,700 miles, but are actually fine (thickness and appearance).
I'd really like to go back to Brembo rear pads, but where to find them in the USA?
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I hope I'm putting all these fluids in the right places. At the right times . . .
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What is the status of the fuel in the tank? Did you drain it and refill?
If so, cycle the run switch several times. You should hear the fuel pump whir each time.
Yes?
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There is a "torque it to the manufacturers specs" for the oil filter?
I have been relying on Ryland3210's work looking into this and use his recommendation to tighten one and one-eighth turn after gasket contact. I'll admit it is much tighter than I would have naturally tightened an oil filter.
There is a torque spec for the V11 oil filter? I don't see it in the Workshop Manual?
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True concerns about the UFI filters, and any filter with round section gasket (rather than flat).
Craig, what kind of filter fell off?
It was a Wix 51215 with a square rubber O-ring.
I have a new pump waiting to go in. The old one was scored up a bit. There are 2-3 tiny (~0.5mm) pits on the crankcase surface of the pump as well. I don't think they will hurt.
I am completely tearing down the engine. At this point the only thing left together is the oil regulator and I have yet to get the studs out of the crank case.
Ouch - that's the filter I use.
If I may ask, what did you use for a tightening procedure? I ask because I was raised in the era of "tighten by hand" or "finger tight . . . . " for automotive-type canister filters.
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True concerns about the UFI filters, and any filter with round section gasket (rather than flat).
Craig, what kind of filter fell off?
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That is one of the most informative, and concise, writings on the subject I have yet seen.
It's the first time I have read that higher Zn/P were predicated by the lead in the fuels.
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Jeez, man . . . I need a beer. You should have one, too . . .
It will be very interesting to learn if that crank can be saved. Best of luck with this all!
Twelfth South'n Spine Raid 2016
in Meetings, Clubs & Events
Posted
Working through my fluid changes, battery conditioning, and otherwise getting the Sport ready-to-go.
Ulterior motive: NOT to become an impromptu Tech Session!