docc
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Posts posted by docc
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Chuck,
Now that you've got the Scura back to the Mid - West you'll have to enjoy it on some the SE Ohio roads.
I'd really enjoy romping around upriver from Marietta and the Wayne National Forest; ride the ferry to Sistersville, W.Va.
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I have had to trailer recover my 100,000 mile V11 once (*knock-on-wood/touch-the-stone-glass*
) as one of my stator wires had gone agly.Otherwise, V11 are known to be resilient beasts. If one has a full set of spare OMRON relays and some simple hand tools on board.
It's just that I want to show up in this one day:
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Shoot, Joe - I saw you posted on this thread and came looking for the pic of your new V11!
Hey, if you don't mind, post that same offer in the V11 Fuel Tanks thread :
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This year's Tech Session?
"How to get your V11 where you want to ride without riding where you don't want to ride."
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Crap!
People often want to say, "Watch out on that motorcycle, drivers won't see you." To which I oft reply, "Those are the same people that pull in front of trains or fire trucks running lights and siren."
Hope you get get your big, metal "camping tent" all squared away for the Spine Raid!
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Bill, having never seen your "Hotdog&Mustard," this will be a treat!
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I looked, but could not find any specification of the base oil in the Lucas 20-50.
The first 30,000 miles I used Castrol GTX 20-50 mineral oil, then Mobile1 15-50 for just a couple changes (like many, my confidence in their products is not what it once was), then then Lucas 2-50 50,000 miles or so, with a couple brief flirts with Mob1 5-40 Turbodiesel (high ZDDP), and Mob1 V-Twin SG when the Lucas was unavailable.
Avoiding "Energy Conserving" oils is something I picked up from Pete Roper, as I recall; something to do with the rings seating on the cylinder walls?
@ Jazzamoto, I can't find where Dave Richardson (Guzziology, Version 8.2)) discusses why Guzzi changed the viscosity spec for the later V11? He has a lot of other great advice, though, like , " . . . SG service rating is more important than viscosity selection . . ." and ". . . use an oil that you can find and don't mind changing often . . ."
@Colorobo, talking oil is, of course, a never-ending discussion, which isn't a bad thing, just that there will be no final answer. It's easy to say, "Use what the factory specifies." But, either of those viscosities will be fine. I suppose there is some consensus here that the specialized (racing?) oil companies have some great products (in the States: Motul, Agip, Redline, Lucas, Royal Purple . . .) and that those oils are more likely to have the higher anti-wear package (zinc & phosphorous/ ZDDP) that you will not find in conventional, modern passenger car oils because of the deleterious effects on catalytic converters.
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doctor, is that you in the very nice photo?
Yes, indeed; taken in Sewanee, TN, (near Chattanooga) recently while a few of us were having our way with the hillclimbs around there.
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What weight 5-40 or 20 50, ?
Ok, so Colorobo, as you can see, oil is a *can-of-worms*. There is some common ground: change your oil, be careful about the V11 oil filter, *true* synthetic is good, enough ZDDP is important. Avoid anything labeled "Energy Conserving."
I use Lucas Motorcycle 20W-50. No idea how to even find out what the "base oil" is. I wish I knew?
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That does likely well made next to the typical Japanese "molded in" locator pins that tend to shear off.
Who makes this switchgear?
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I want-me one of my very own LuckyPhil_Shift-Flickers!
Better, even yet, to be Chuck-Done!
Sign me up!
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oh wait, I clicked on the photo first. then when in a new window.. copy paste
Fantastic! That works. Thanks!
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More to the point, while early V11 motors use 20W-50 SG (high zinc and phosphorus/ 'ZDDP'), later V11 motors have piston sprayers.
Do the piston sprayers require the lower viscosity oil to function properly?
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what size are you loading to the gallery docc?
Not sure. I've only posted two photos in the "Gallery." The last one looks to be 640x480 ("medium")
I was surprised they loaded to the gallery, but I'd like to know how to make them appear in posts on other parts of the forum?
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Finally, it seems I can upload photos to the "gallery."
How can I get "gallery" photos to appear as an image in a post?
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I dream of building something that elegant to relocate my Tekno panniers further forward and lower . . .
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There are angles I look at this Marabese designed V11 tank and find it so stunning and compelling. It is certainly like no other, totally unique.
Other times, it looks bulbous and odd and oversized.
I've often found myself thinking the very same thing docc. couldn't describe it better. I'm thinking that the hangy down bits at the rear that resembles two, too big ear lobes, is the culprit. I wouldn't give up the extra fuel residing there for looks though. I've wondered, does the 1100 Spoti tank fit? Is it nylon too?
PreV11 Sports have metal tanks.
I can see that the "skirts" or "panniers" of the tank shape contribute to its visual mass. Taking the V11 as a whole, especially with monochromatic body parts, I think the design looks like a giant, molten flame being blown by an intense wind from the front. Makes me wanna wrap myself around it and feed it high octane fuel!
There are angles I look at this Marabese designed V11 tank and find it so stunning and compelling. It is certainly like no other, totally unique.
Other times, it looks bulbous and odd and oversized.
Yet, we are probably entering an era of "preservation" as well as sourcing handcrafted replacements.
There are two distinct V11 fuel / gas tanks and they are not simply interchangeable even while they have the same shape/appearance.
Why aren't the 2 tank types interchangeable docc? I have 2 of the new type ( 1 second hand and 1 brand new) and a brand new version of the old type, plus the original on my V11 greenie. The new version will fit very easily requiring a small modification to the sub frame mount. I've tried both my new versions on my bike and will use one of these when I fit the Daytona motor. Although I like the old one the new version has much superior and simplified injector plumbing.
Speaking of the Daytona engine project, just got my Carrillo rods back from Carrillo after a factory referb, new little end bushes, closed and honed big ends, checked for twist, bend and crack tested for $240us. Good deal for anyone considering.
Ciao
My over-simplification.
They are, indeed, interchangeable, but will require adapting the fuel pump, fuel filter, regulator, and plumbing between the two versions (internal and external pump/etc). What had to be modified on the rear subframe mount to fit the later (internal) tank to the earlier frame? -
Thanks, Phil! Makes perfect sense (also why I couldn't visualize it as I have the earlier mechanism).
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whew - good - sounds more like Rock-n-Roll than The Blues!
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Well . . . how's it going?
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But has anyone considered a carbon fiber tank? That could be easier to fabricate, especially by the DIY types out there.
I have a couple carbon fiber Ducati tanks for my old racebikes, and one nice aluminum tank. I prefer the look/feel of the aluminum tank but the carbon fiber tanks are really light and look cool.
I wish I had not read that... Now I want a CF tank for my Scura.
This is such a great idea. I can write you a *doctor's note* . . .
What could be more Scura?
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Otherwise, I'd tell the new owner it's low on the list of concerns.
Wait, what? your selling her ?
Oh, nonononnoo! I was replying to the original post there:
I have been asked the question by a new owner.
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There are angles I look at this Marabese designed V11 tank and find it so stunning and compelling. It is certainly like no other, totally unique.
Other times, it looks bulbous and odd and oversized.
Yet, we are probably entering an era of "preservation" as well as sourcing handcrafted replacements.
There are two distinct V11 fuel / gas tanks and they are not simply interchangeable even while they have the same shape/appearance.
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I have a timing light, so I suppose I should at least look at the mark and decide if the chain/tensioner should be seen to . . .
Otherwise, I'd tell the new owner it's low on the list of concerns.
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2004 Lemans oil
in Technical Topics
Posted
"Exceeding" a prior rating is all about meeting the most current specification. These days, that means making catalytic converters last beyond the manufacturer's replacement obligation (75,000 miles?). Yet, it is the anti-wear ZDDP that keeps our air-cooled, flat tappet Guzzi motors in the blond that has been systematically reduced.
True SG is an enigma, as is finding true ester Group 4 base oil. These things will always be more important than the viscosity range from what I can read and learn and try to understand.
From there, we're left to frequent changes, use filters with box-section gaskets (not "O-rings), cinch them 1 1/8 turns from the gasket contact and consider the hose-clamp method.
If I were going to use a 5-40, I would look for a diesel rating to get the anti-wear package (CI-4/CJ-4), like Mob1 TurboDiesel or similar. Again, no idea what base oil that actually uses.
Always great to check in with Richard Widman on oil for air-cooled flat tappet engines (Corvair). His opinions are factually based and much applies to our big block Guzzis:
http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html