docc
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Everything posted by docc
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Definitely. It's worth working through the full tune-up: TPS Set-up and Throttle Balance Tuning Next, per Kiwi_Roy: clean the ignition switch and inspect its connections. Also, inspect the 30 amp charging/regulator fuse for signs of heat failure.
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I'm thinking that will be worth the trouble. Amazing how much little changes can make!
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Maybe even a lighter lubricant. I over-greased an early cable (bevel drive Veglia) and the internal pressure and resistance caused trouble.
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Nigel, glad to hear you are back up and around! And they used to say motorcycles were dangerous! Post up a thread on the sloppage plate install. Based on the comments and discussion, it will likely get moved to "How TO . . ." subforum to better archive for future searching. Thanks and good riding to you!
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Good advice on the routing. Plus, make sure the cable housing is lubricated especially at those tight bends.
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My 2000 Sport is like yours, D.
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Agreed, with Hubert, the upper eye will give shorter throws. My link rod is attached to the inboard side. And, again per Hubert, align the vertical extension of the foot lever with the vertical link of the gearbox. (Your threaded rod is not dragging the wiring for the exhaust sensor?)
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Check it out: both the Starter Relay and the Headlamp Relay get power from Fuse 5:
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Those look like good charging voltages for the alternator and regulator, but a battery that is not functioning properly. Or simply loose or bad connections.
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+1 on that for a starting point. The loose coils are not likely the culprit, yet I'm not sure how to test them properly. Have a look also at the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist for other issues and how to reattach or replace the coil mounts.
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Pretty recent pete-post right here: Sloppage sheets in Technical Topics.
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But, as you say, I don't see where the black wire came off of?
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That's pretty flat for a battery that ought to be 12.84 v, especially if you just charged it.
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Check out Kiwi_Roy's thread on servicing the ignition switch. Good V11 medicine!
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Great news! Keep us posted on this thread how the title goes, but consider tossing up a new thread on Technical Topics to systematically work through the starting issue. These folks will get you on the road!
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In that case, I definitely don't understand what the regulator's white wire does (?)
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Kiwi_Roy's thread from Techical Topics moved to "How To . . ." for better archiving.
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He says it feels great. Definite improvement. I'm looking forward to snagging a spin on it maybe this weekend. On the hunt for proper rearsets now to complete the stance. The Guzzi V7 Racer pieces look nice - I wonder who is making them?
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It's a little fiddly releasing the lock nut. I used a crow's foot ( I think it's 19mm) with the acorn removed. Using a series of brief test rides, you can move the slotted center screw about 1/8 turn and see how she feels. Some of the posters with more insight might say which direction would allow more pawl movement to the downshift.
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The eccentric is under the acorn nut on the outside of left side plate. Moving the adjustment is only likely to help if the gearbox upshifts more cleanly than downshifts (or vice versa).
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I'm having trouble feeling sorry for you . . .
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Locally, the pure gas premium is 30-40 cents a gallon more (about 10%), or an extra two bucks on a full tank.
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OH, my! Grounding through the wiring harness? Check, clean, and reattach the main ground cable to the back of the gear case. Use a "star" washer to cut in a good contact.
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She just really wakes up at 5,000!
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Advice needed - How to adjust CO level at idle
docc replied to moscowphil's topic in Technical Topics
The CO is adjusted digitally through a computer interface (Moto Guzzi Axone, VDSTS, or Guzzidiag, etc) Once you find the CO trim n the software, note its numerical position. You can then reset it to a value that should carry through the testing and put it back where you like it when finished. Check out the Guzzidiag thread here.
